That breaker is rated for 220V DC

@@rm6857 i was about to abandon my project just because i watched this video... but then i wonder if the same would have occured if he used a 1000v 16a double dc bracker on a string that produces 14 amp in short circuit mode like i'm going to do... any opinion about it is very welcome

@@michenji It burnt because he used 220V breaker for 350V system. If you use 1000V for 350V, you are fine.

Remember the types of breakers out there .The best breakers are thermal sensing ,current sensing and magnetic tripping .Also operating voltage gives it the ability to extinguish and ARC ,Always she's the load in the panel before you open the main breaker .Same thing with fused disconnects protecting panels .Also there are HP ratings to contend with ,not just current and voltage and ratings AIR and most important .NEMA vs IEC .I'll take NEMA every day over any IEC .Just remember if your short circuit current is 10 amps don't put in a 15 amp breaker or fuse for that matter even if the wire is rated for 30 amps ...As the voltage goes up you will need devices with arc chutes for quenching the arc .Some uses several contacts in series for arc quenching

I think its the chinese one cuz there diagram on the right and blank on the left. Probably 240VAc/125Vdc or something. That was why he hid the right side of the the breaker.

@@mythuan2000 even if not Chinese, rating is only 220vdc and it’s not an isolator. It’s a breaker.

Yeah, it's pretty much common sense. If you can read and understand what you're reading, you can do it the right way. 😏

Or do it anyway and learn the hard lesson. Then next time, you might stop to research what you're doing. Eventually you'll learn or run out of money.

This video assumes people can't learn. I understand the concern, but that is a ver elitist view of the world. I built my first system last year after I did about 100 hours of research. I already replaced components that had been recommended, but turned out to be faulty.

Thank you

Thanks Brian, yes it surprised me just how quick it went up. And yes your spot on about the breakers simply tripping through age, fatigue, external thermal influences etc. This one was in spec for the application also.

Very good comment/ question!!!

From the title, the poster doesn't care to inform, just scare you to hire him. Not impressed.

its rated 220V, and he uses 350V

@@rm6857 obviously he's using more than it's rated.

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 Yes, that breaker is good brand with CE rating.

No, he used 350V solar array. That DC breaker is good brand with CE

it seems that the dc breaker wasn't good enough or the voltage used was higher than its specs. @@rm6857

Depends on the application but I wouldn’t trust them beyond say 12volts

Except at dwan & dusk, that's broadly correct

Mostly. Only complication is that the open-circuit voltage is a fair bit higher than the optimal operating voltage, so you need to rate your components accordingly. A panel sold as '12V' will usually be able to output 20V under no-load conditions.

@@vylbird8014 22 or more.. 18v at maximum power point. They sold as "12v" panels, because that's the target nominal battery voltage. You need somewhat higher voltage than the battery charge voltage (~14.4v on a nominal 12v battery). Just adding info to your already informative comment, for others.

the dry air has a breakdown voltage of 3kV/milimeter, if the air is wet, this value is lower. if the distance between the contacts is 1 milimeter and there is an arc between them, it means the voltage is already kV. due to the parasitic inductance of all the wires where the current flows in a closed loop system, if you open the loop, the parasitic inductor tries to resist current change and it will increase the voltage creating an arc until all energy of the inductor is dissipated and the voltage returns to that of the PV panel/string. if you want to minimise the arc, keep the wires as short and thicker as possible.

Hi Around 350v from memory. I will be doing the experiment again soon with more detail.

@@joondalupelectricalservice3201 Why experiment, this is trustable brand dc breaker, its rated for 220V DC so you are more than 150% of its rated voltage. Do you have any education in electrics? or you just try experiments if breakers burn or not?

Rule of thumb 10kw inverter for every 7kw of demand ..Leaving 3 meters of space around your inverter is essential .Also the same rules apply for the derating of conductors based On ambient temperatures .You drop your ratings if your inverters ambient temperature is at 50°C like in attics and lofts in summer .Derate again for that and you may be only able to run 5 kw on a 10 kw inverter .Adding fans for cooling is essential and fresh air. in many cases the attic temps are much higher than outside .More fans !Or water cooled heat exchangers

Same here, I did my own and it's been working great. Why scare people away from solar? Isn't an unreliable power grid more alarming?

@@scottwilliams5196 there is no such thing as free energy or green energy .This is the problem going from a reliable power source to one that is not .Solar has its uses so long as you have the ability and space to provide more power than what you need and the ability to store enough surplus to operate for 1 to 2 weeks .Let's face it we have many cloudy and overcast days and at times for weeks in a row .It's not a reliable power source but a means of augmenting a power system .All you are doing is off setting the carbon foot print to a later date .They are highly toxic ,have a relatively short life span in some locations and have issues with maintenance and need to be cleaned to keep efficiency up .I like solar,don't get me wrong but it has its issues and has limitations and they do harm the environment from manufacturing ,disposal and the change in temperature in the area they operate .So do wind mills ,they kill wild life and redirect air flow and introduce noise that can be harmful to animals and humans .Basic laws of physics .(Energy Can't be Created, Only Transformed From One Form To Another )And that's that !You can't get something for nothing .Everything has a cost

@@carlubambi5541 my tool box has many tools. I don't reject a tool because it can't do everything. Solar has been a great tool for me. Wind would be a good tool as well. Grid is a good tool. My panels will long outlast me and probably the next person that comes along. I replace batteries in my solar like I do in my cars, truck, mower, generator and power tools. We all do that. Not complicated. If you don't want alternative power, cool for you. Enjoy that choice, but don't dump on others who try to think outside the box.

@@scottwilliams5196 yes I agree it has many uses ,it's a tool like anything else .It's has its uses and limitations,and should not be promoted as a be all and end all and cure for an imaginary enemy nor as a cure to solve an energy problem that does not exists .You see the more energy is produced the cheaper the price ,the problem becomes at what point will it be profitable for the produces .Eh Pickering nuclear plant produced electricity at a cost of 4 cents per Kwhr over its life span .This cost includes the building and maintenance .Distribution is another head ache and cost .The end user was paying about 6 to 8 cents per kWhr .they now privatized electricity and now we are paying as much as 10 times .for the same electricity .We are paying between 50 to 80 cents per KWHr for solar and Wind .!Something is seriously wrong . If I had the space I could put in about 4 kw of solar .The cost would be too high and the recovery too long 20 to 30 years before you break even .I have 400 watts on my shed to charge my tools and lawn mower and supply security lighting .It would cost me $3k + to run a wire from my house to the shed .So I spent$1500 for a stand alone solar system .The batteries are the biggest cost at almost $400 each .I use 2 RV marine lead acid batteries and a 1500w inverter .That's more than enough for a stand alone power system .When the power does go out I use a back up generator .

The latest inverters have arc detection and PV disconnect switch.

@@sang3Eta Oh I see, so get rid of all our older inverters and spend thousands on new ones?

@Bushcraft1974 You can fit an external DC switch to your DC in cable. You can also put an arc fault detector in your fuse box. In the UK we also only use serial string inverters with lower Amps higher Volts which also helps eliminate arcing.

Yes and no, thats how solar panels function.

What you mean by saying shed the load?

@@Gallardo6669 You don't want to just trip a main breaker with multiple appliances/loads operating. It puts way too much stress on the breaker and risks a failure. You trip your individual lines one at a time to disconnect smaller loads sequentially and then trip the main when there little or no load on it.

@@Mike80528 i thought so, but thx for clarifying.

You missed the point (it happens ;-) ), no fire happened during the short circuit. The fire happened when the short was *disconnected*/opened and the resultant arc was not interrupted . Solar panels can be shorted indefinitely as the cabling is rated for that , and panels can't supply more than that (unlike most batteries). Solar panels can't only supply a limited current to their loads , a short is no different than a heavy load, they will just max out to their Isc amp rating and that's it (voltage will drop). However when you interrupt it under max load.....that what we see in this video.

and what do you think the fuses will do?

@@flatfoot disconect

@@flatfoot open the circuit .In large DC drives we use fuses in series with breakers to protect the breakers .Common practice for us in plastic extrusion in machines using DC motors driving screws .Eventually we replace the DC motors with AC motors with VFD

@@carlubambi5541 fuses on a DC single PV string will never do anything. The fault current is no larger than the operating current. How does the fuse know when there's a fault condition?

@@flatfoot .There are time delay thermal sensing fuses .they sense temperature and open up .They have a fuse link that has a spring on one side and a little pot of low temp solder that pulls open when it starts to melt because of the spring tension ..Now if the fault Current is only 15 amps then put in a 10 amp d type fuse .Also use UCC fuse holders and a disconnect so you have an extra method of disconnecting means ...These problems can be reduced .We get so much equipment from Europe with those breakers .We remove them and put in Mersen UCC Ultra safe fuse holders .Read the use specifications on the breakers .Most are only good for communications equipment.tehre is an AIR rating on fuses and breakers to consider as well as their voltage and their ability to quench an Arc.Some motor starters/manual motor starters have the ability to add quenching Chutes when used at higher voltages to extinguish the Arc .Or the use of multiple contacts in series to quench an arc .As this current does not exceed the breakers trip current temperature sensitive breakers are available (Magnetic ,thermal and overload sensing in one package .Fuses come with short circuit or thermal overload sensing

Agree, the title could be better. My motive however is to make people aware of the dangers of diy and solar.