Why clipp the gasket on tower?

You should hop on my site and shoot me a picture I'm curious. I don't have one I just use lt1swap.com a tune is way better and for only $50 well worth it.

I’m curious what’s inside the range as well

Any damage to engine?

@@tipsreviews7476 Nope

Also just pull the heater circuit fuse (if yours has heated O2 Sensors) on the O2 Sensors, this will turn on the Money Light, might take a minute or 2 but it will set.

Get the tune done, if the ECM doesn't see the VLOM it won't run the engine right. Lt1swap.com

CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks

Youre pretty much spot on, I believe the only difference would be the length of the 2 different lifter types.. Ive heard rumors of ppl using longer pushrods and it ran fine. Which would make sense..

I haven't found lobe specs yet for the afm vs the non afm lobes to be able to get a full understanding of why it causes a misfire but my best guess is that the AFM lifter is a different length and rather than use unequal length pushrods they cut the lobes differently. So you may be able to get around it by getting custom length pushrods but I've looked around a lot and haven't seen where any has tried. What we all need to know before trying that, and my biggest concern, would be is the duration and lift going to be equal if you go to custom push rod lengths and make it all work seamlessly. I think not knowing that and getting to that level of frustration leads everyone to just change the cam and go on with life. Plus there's the fact that in quite a bit of the cases when a lifter goes to crap the cam gets damaged so it couldn't be reused anyway.

According to what I've read, the cam lobes for the afm lifters are shorter than the lobes for the non afm lifters

I was thinking the same. Even possibly tack welding the afm lifters in locked position with a good polish after.

There is a small dip in the cam lobe just before the opening ramp that takes load off the pins inside the AFM lifters just long enough that they can be compressed in if the solenoids are sending oil pressure to make it go into 4cyl mode. If you put standard lifters on these lobes, it will result in lower compression on those cylinders. (usually 20-25lbs lower then non afm cylinders) This difference in compression can result in a light misfire at idle, enough to cause P0300 random misfire.

Thanks for the comment. I have a GXP with the 5.3.

The late model diesel engines are not any better with all the added emissions.

You can't block Oil towers unless it has non-AFM lifters. P.M. me at www.crazedperformancerepair.com/

Yes you still need the tune done but as far as the VLOM mod do the one shown here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html

If it's not broke and it's pre 2014 DI, just do the tune to disable AFM. I recommend lt1swap.com for that service.

It should work the AFM has no relation to the pcv except that they both cause oil consumption.

Depends on the cam and crank pickup, different generations have different trigger wheel designs and they are not compatible with the pcm. There might be a couple that would work but without research I'm not sure what ones. A motor from older one could certainly be built to work but that defeats the purpose lol

You can just purchase the outer part of the gasket and just not do anything with the solenoids. You could also pull them out but then you will need to address holding in the pass through connector.

If you can tune the system off that would be ideal. I use LT1Swap.com for this but that might not be an option because you are located outside of the US.

I think it's only 16ft lbs. If you have iron block feel free to add another ft lb

Just toss it!

Thank you for asking this! I just ran into the filter issue when reinstalling everything.

@@scottsherbahn2727 no problem I haven't done this yet waiting on some warmer weather in WI so I can fix my truck.

It is part of the vlom mod see this two video's kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pZiCjKSJ2tTFqH0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNp9arF6t6eagHk.html

You are stuck correcting the issue completely and keeping AFM/DOD and will likely need to upgrade oil pump for more volume, or do the steps I do in release video and run the range disabler. If you have emissions testing the disabler won't be a option. This is unfortunately because the ECM can't be tuned on these vehicles. The source of all AFM/DOD issues comes from lack of oil pressure during the AFM activation.

Yea fortunately I live in a county where it’s emissions free so I’ll be good there but thanks for the input

Do the VLOM mod as follows kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html

Yes if you are doing the full delete you can replace the VLOM with non DOD cover.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair awesome. Thanks for advice. I kinda figured that but I just wanted to make sure lol. Now just gotta find someone to do the tune. I might take the ECU somewhere or send it since machine shop gave me week to 2 week turnaround time on the valve job.

Send your ECU to LT1Swap.com and tell him I sent you.

All of them. You Should watch my full release video. At 27:17 I do the VLOM mod that I recommend.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair you're the man, look out for my VLOM order... I'll revert back when done for success

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair order placed - - - OVERNIGHT!

Will Wood what is the cost for this

You can do the time to shut it off but if your VLOM has a leaky solenoid or a clogged up bleed off it will happen again. Those things are not likely though.

No you likely have a crankcase ventilation issue or bad piston/rings. Loosen the oil cap and see if it plows off while at idle or just sits there and vibrates.

Unless you address the knock sensors location, cam and crank trigger stuff the VLOM is the least of your concerns. All different from gen 3 to 4

I wouldn't but you could I suppose. Do it carefully.

Did your vehicle make the loud ticking sound? Did you check if the rocker was loose in more than one camshaft position?

@CrazedPerformanceRepair I heard the ticking sound, but not as loud like what you have on your videos. It Idles rough and the usual dash lights are on too. I was too excited to do the tool trick. Intake, alternator, Vlom, valve cover on driver side is already off. Thank you for a fast reply...

I've got the same

2011 z71

I haven't had a lifter failer yet I'm hoping this will help prolong the issue

You most likely have DOD so this would apply to you vehicle.

CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you !!! I m a HVAC guy and maintenance good w hand I feel I can do thank you cause I don t trust at Chevy guys where I go here in n York

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rqyia7epzN6un6s.html

Waist of time. Disable the AFM with lt1swap.com instead and install my VLOM plug. If your vehicle is before 2014 though, it most likely won't solve your oil pressure issue. The only way it would is if you're screen under the oil pressure sensor is plugged.

If you want to go to standard non AFM lifters you will also need non AFM camshaft, non AFM valley cover or oil tower plugs, and a tune to shut the system off.

Yes the tune will void the warranty, invest in a disabler until the warranty is up amzn.to/2K8wtTp

Yes the tune will void the warranty, invest in a disabler until the warranty is up amzn.to/2K8wtTp

The oil pressure sensor. The VLOM mod shouldn't change oil pressure. See kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rqyia7epzN6un6s.html for more information.

Yikes, must not have ran then. Most likely the chain jumped. It will have bent valves as well.

No, you never want to plug the towers unless you have non AFM/DOD lifters. I'm Not sure what may have caused the issue though? Done a lot of these but I have a different technique now seen at 27:17 of my 37min video for releasing the collapsed lifter.

Did you ever do anything else after the dod? Just wondering. Just got a used Escalade recently

The tune needs to be done to keep it from collapsing again, this is by far the cheapest route you can do if it is successful.

Ok is this something I can do myself? I feel confident tackiling this repair but I’m clueless on the “tune part”

Yes you can do this yourself use the gasket cutting method that way you can drive it to somebody for the tune.

CrazedPerformanceRepair ok but isn’t there a chance that lifter collapses again on the way to get it tuned?

CrazedPerformanceRepair also not sure if I’m suppose to plug the hole in plate on the inside or outside. I have seen u do both

If you had a lifter fail then I recommend doing both. If it hasn't failed yet the tune alone is fine

Think of it as an insurance policy for your vehicle, doing the VLOM mod will help in case the VLOM was the source of the problem. Do the VLOM mod like I do here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html

That depends on how aggressive the camshaft is and your definition of run and drive. You may be able to 2 foot your way there but I would just tow it if it doesn't run decent.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you for the response, your Chanel is awesome!!! Stage 2 BTR for a 6.2 L99 VVT delete and 3 bolt ls3 style cam

@@brianbusbea8960 not likely going to run well if at all without tune.

The VLOM typically won't cause a noise. It could cause premature wear and early lifter failure but not just a tick. Does the tick happen cold, warm or both?

The lifters are brand new, I just changed them because 3-4 of them where collapsed. I ran the truck for 3 minutes and shut it off because the tick was still there even after changing them all.

I never let it warm up, but I’m assuming it happens hot or cold.

@@mkoricic did you get all the manifold bolts tight enough?

Yes, had a few broken got them out and used new bolts. Pretty sure it’s not an exhaust leak. You don’t think it’s a lifter issue? I’m going to tear the vlom off and do the mod in your video.

Did you do the VLOM mod to it? If so go ahead and drive it. If not then it's your risk to take, rumor has is leaving it in 3rd keeps it off but I don't know if I would risk it.

CrazedPerformanceRepair so if I’m getting it the delete put on it Friday could I drive it in 3rd

You need the vlom mod and a tune. If you don't at very least do the tune it will collapse again.

Ok awesome thank you very much

@@ikemunoz951 ..did you do the vlom?

Yes. I did and came out perfect just got it tuned and has been doing good no issues

It will trow a code and go into limp mode, do the VLOM mod as follows on my latest revision kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html

No I have had a couple people claim it didn't work for them and activated anyway. I wouldn't risk it, besides if your VLOM has failed in a way that allows oil pressure to build up on those towers there is no tune that can stop it from collapsing. Do both and it's full proof. Tune because it's needed and VLOM mod because it's cheap insurance.

It should work just make sure VLOM is plugged in and you did the VLOM mod.

Well I freed up the lifter and did the mod. Start up was good, but after a mile it started knocking off and on and I'm losing oil pressure.

Yes, if it has a issue and it's not tuned off.

No, I machine part in house. It is much thicker then the line up dowel.

Oh ok. I did use the one from the block with some light silicone around it let it sit over night. Looks like it sealed nicely. 👍🏻

Sounds like You may have a collapsed lifter. The thing about the 2krpm is it will hide a misfire in a v8 because it's spinning fast enough to smooth out. So it may still be missing and you or the pcm just can't see it. Hook a compression gauge up to cylinder 6 and start the vehicle. Hit the bleed of on the compression gauge a couple times and taking notes of the reading. Then do the same holding at 2krpm to see if it is still the same. I'm guessing both rpms will have close to zero compression indicating a stuck shut intake valve from a lifter problem. Don't forget to unplug injector and coil for number 6

have also replaced broken valve spring on #6 ,have checked compression on 6 and it’s good also runs perfect at highway speeds get ‘s 22 miles on average for gas mileage and you can see in rhe display showing 8 to 4 mode , just when you get get in stop and go traffic, stability and traction control light comes on throws pending code of lean bank one(P0171) am too the point of finding this beast a good home LOL, have paid out over $2700 on this car ! my local chevrolet dealer did some of theses repairs, replacing broken valve spring on # 6 exhaust, replaced computer and reprograming also compression check on 6 which they tell me was good. Enjoy all your videos any help full info appreciated

Checking compression might not show the problem always. You need to check running compression so the system has oil pressure. These lifters collapse while oil pressure is applied to them so is you don't have enough oil pressure while doing test it may show it's good when it's not

Did you forget to plug in the VLOM?

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I felt back there it felt plugged in. Gonna take back off and be sure, gonna tune and delete anyways just to be sure. Oh the rocker wasn’t moved, released pretty easy and now it moves. If that helps

Yes, or you can use LT1Swap.com it is a much cheeper alternative.

Oh yeah I just ordered your trick kit. Portsmouth va. Deshon

I would recommend you use LT1Swap.com for the tune it will save you $140 and as for the VLOM mod see my most recent video of it kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html this takes you directly to the VLOM mod portion of my latest video. I recommend you go back and watch the whole thing if you can, there is lots of helpful information in that video.

Not likely, it collapsed because of oil pressure issue.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair right on, also, absolutely awesome response time and videos. Really appreciate all the information you put out there. Im not very mechanically inclined, so at the very least the knowledge i've gained will help me not get completely hoodwinked if i take my truck into a shop.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have 2011 Yukon Denali with misfire on cylinder one and loud lifter noise. What is best/most likely fix?

Not if you're not having a issue.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair No issues with lifters as I had it tuned off as a precaution. Do I need to plug the pressure relief valve port in the pan? I read its not recommended with the high volume OEM pump.

@@atxjax1 no, leave it alone.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Im getting about 25 PSI at hot idle and about 40 while cruising hot. I have already changed the pickup tube O-ring. Should I be looking at oil pump replacement with a high pressure one from melling?

No definitely not likely the pump. Minimum oil pressure for AFM Minimum oil pressure spec is too low and should be alarming you at 25psi. The magic number is 26psi per gm. This means if the system ever drops below 27psi at the lifter during activation it will cause damage to the lifter because it doesn't disengage the locks fast enough for the valvetrain events. The main source of failure for these systems comes down to oil pressure. If the pressure ever drops down below 27psi @ the lifter while the system is activating, the locking paws will not disengage the locks fast enough causing damage. This is why it tends to happen on higher mileage engines. As engines age the tolerances will loosen up and the oil pressure will drop. That is why I consider it a bad idea to leave the system active once it has failed. The most common loss of oil pressure is from the following: (Most to least common from what I have seen) 1: Plugged screen under pressure sensor (not applicable After VLOM Mod) 2: Second camshaft bearing (especially in 2009-2013 due to VVT option built into camshaft combined with poor quality bearings) 3: Plugged oil filter and/or oil sump (Engine flushing with changing filters during can help with these if done right) 4: Oil sump o-ring failure (can be tested by over filling oil by 1-2qt then placing vehicle nose down on steep incline. If pressure goes up expect o-ring failure.) 5: Lifter bleed off (typically comes with oil consumption when on drivers side. Can be tested by running vehicle with valve cover off. If any rockers are spraying oil then those lifters have severe bleed off) 6: Weak or bad secondary pressure relief valve. (located in oil pan, can get debris lodged, lose spring pressure, or have spring fail.) 7: Overall worn out engine or bad rod bearing. (The bottom end of these typically wont wear out until well over 400k miles if reasonably maintained.) The oil pumps almost never fail in these. I have never seen one fail myself in a functioning engine. I have only seen a failure in race applications where the engine had internally grenaded sending small particles into the pump. Even then they still functioned and just had some scoring.

The VLOM mod is to make sure your VLOM doesn't have a issue that caused the failure in the first place by eliminating it from being a possibility. You could get by with just a tune if the VLOM it's self isn't the source of the problem. As for sending the pcm, there are guys who do it but I don't offer it quite yet. Check with LT1tech. Let them know I sent you.

CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you for your quick response! Do you offer expedited shipping on the VLOM plug?

@@paulros1055 I can but it only makes it a day or 2 faster for a crazy high rate of like $25 just to ship. Plus the overnight from usps is considered 1-2 day depending on location shoot my website a message in the morning before you order and we can work out the details tomorrow if you want.

No unless you modify the non DOD cover.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair, what would you have to do to the non dod cover?

Remove o-rings and cuts slots to relieve oil pressure above each oil tower in the block.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks I see what ya mean on another one of ya videos. Thanks man ya a tremendous help bro.

road? you mean the side? Did you put the little bolt on air bleed plugs on in the corner of the heads in the back? new head bolts? resurface heads?

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yes to all

Did you clean the surface of the block? What tool did you use to clean it?

Fit yes, work no, depends on a lot of different things.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair so I double check an the engine is a 07 not 06 would that work I was thinking about just using the block and heads and use the intake and other parts from the 2010 to the 07

Not 6.2 specific but it all started in 2005 in select models and went mainstream in 2007 but if the vehicle is for instance a 2500HD or bigger it won't have DOD because it's too heavy to be in any way a benefit per GM

www.crazedperformancerepair.com/product-page/lifter-release-kit

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you much appreciated hope it works out I already have it torn down ready to go

Yes

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I opened mine up today and found a bent pushrod at the front drivers cylinder. Also my afm has never worked since I bought it used it has never switched to v4 mode so maybe the last owner had it tuned off. But I had the lifter tap for months now and then I changed the oil pickup o ring and blocked off the pressure bypass in the pan and it went away for months then one day when I started my truck BAM I hear a loud pop and then bad ticking. Drive fine but rattled like crazy. So I pulled the vlom and driver's cover and found the bent pushrod ..what is my best option to start at this time?

@@hucktrucks1161 you should find out why it bent. Was this a exhaust valve pushrod that bent? Most likely the guide is sticky from carbon build up and you will need to clean it.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it was the very front pushrod on the drivers side. I think I may have a leaking solenoid and when I got my oil pressure fixed it leaked by and collapsed the lifter

You can purchase the kit on my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com

Anyway I can call you and talk about my vehicle problems

It should I don't see why it wouldn't.

Then you will be replacing them again down the road. Need to solve the lack of oil pressure that causes the issue in the first place before replacement is worth while.

He like what he dose.

This guy goes out of his way to thoroughly explain the process to people, who more than likely aren't mechanics mind you, and to help these people save money and you complain about his quote unquote blah, blah, blah? Don't be a jerk, Marty.