I actually prefer a Gen III GM small block because no DOD and better throttle with cable. Also, GEN III has proven to be WAY more reliable (drove my LS1 into the ground and hard and it lasted 240k mi).

Have you replaced the screen under the sensor yet? If not use my VLOM plug found on my website crazedperformancerepair.com and eliminate the possibility of lifters being feed oil from vlom all together.

Haz Cat how do you turn it off?

Now I’m out of warranty I bought a hyper tech programmer and disabled the Active Fuel Managment. So far I haven’t noticed any significant changes in milage or fuel consumption.

@@drop2015 i was planning on trading in my jimmy envoy but after learning about gm's abortion of a design, I'm having second thoughts. can we put a regular rv cam in place of the oem and install regular lifters and push rods?

@@drpc98014 I don’t really have an answer for that question, sorry

That would be impossible considering when the lifter is not collapsed is the only time it can open the valve. If it were collapsed, it would be long enough to contact the rest of the components to open the valve. If your valve is stuck open, you have a different issue

I know right... need this you youtube stuff to start getting me some money haha not a huge fan of the new camera but it is a upgrade from the last one... Just need to get the right settings figured out. Also need a better computer before full 4k though, editing would suck otherwise on my 10yr gaming rig.

Also from what im looking at when viewing the delete kits I cant just put the valley cover on? I also need to do the lifters and cam swap? Im thinking just the range device for now. I don't have the cash right now to do a complete delete. I would opt for the HP tuner delete if I could find someone in my area with the program. Its too bad our 10k cornwell scanner cant get in there and turn it off lol

@@platinumlawnservice For a full delete a valley cover and tune isn't enough, but you can do just that if you don't have the problem yet and it should prevent from having the problem. I have the range device and other things linked in my videos descriptions check it out I have lots of other info usually as well.

Yeah ive watched them all now(they are all great!) and as a part time shop mechanic I have decided that until I have the money for full delete im going to do the range to keep it from happening. Hopefully the 180 bucks will save me from ever needing anything else. They also make a switch that you can use to turn it off if one is too lazy to unplug it lol.

why would anyone want the DOD to work? lol the heck with that garbage...

Thanks I will have the full delete soon I hope.

Lol right you just cursed yourself... Just watch oil pressure, if it starts dropping below 30 PSI at any point the system will fail shortly after. These lifters fail from activating with less than 26 PSI at the lifter.when they're activated too low the locking paws won't disengage fast enough and a bind causing the failure.

I agree I need to get some better camera gear... Once this channel starts making money I will invest into gear some more to improve my content thanks for the comment

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair How many miles can one of these engines have before the lifters are beat and in danger of sticking? If i buy a used one and want to electronically disable the system will it be reliable? Thanks.

2 different types of DOD lifters? these engines naturally have 2 types of roller lifters.

Lol right...

I think that DOD may be different I haven't seen it yet but perhaps it's like nissans tech? Nissan has found a way to change stroke or something I forget I seen it like a year ago...

And? How does it do ?

The valley cover will look like it has veins running threw it from the top view if it has DOD. If DOD is not present it will be mostly smooth.

Tricia & Ron Bartolomei At least on the 6th gen Camaros (2016+) only the automatics have AFM. Manuals are free from the headaches

@@Spaceman2484 If you are correct, that is great information thanks.

If it's a truck you can look under the intake. The first years are from 2005 to current. It has changed a lot since though. The 05-07 are only in select models usually the cars. From 07-14ish it's in basically all V8 smaller then the 2500 trucks. In 2014 they added direct injection and a variable vane oil pump. The oil pump design greatly reduced the collapsed lifter failure rate but the low grade steel/iron they used in the camshaft increases cam and roller failure. In 2018 they moved to DFM where all 8 cylinders use the system but failure rate on lifters is still somewhat unknown. They did creat a new pushrod issue however and I have a separate video on it. Also in late 19-20 they announced a chip shortage that made it so they can no longer install the system. So a lot of the new models don't have the system at all. Don't be fooled though, it will still have the push rod issue as far as I'm concerned.

Did you get a crap sensor by chance? Have you seen this video yet? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m9xphNmqnZqZc6s.html

Wait until warranty is up and than see if LT1Swap.com can do it after that.

Crazedperformancerepair.com

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rqyia7epzN6un6s.html

yes but the throttle would not operate.

It needs to be properly diagnosed, pull codes pull the valve covers checked for loose rockers etc. The vlom could be part of the problem sure but it needs proper diag.

The second cam bearing can cause issues but check the screen under the oil sender first.

It is most likely a plugged screen under the sending unit you might want to consider my VLOM modification kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qqhip9mDtqy9gqM.html and turning of DOD in the tune this will prevent future failures in the system.

tyleryoung88 if I understood the video, the answer is yes. The lifter is naturally “extended” to cause the valve to move. When oil pressure is added to the lifter, the two “prongs” retreat internally and the lifter collapses. Then the lifter is too short to engage the valve. He showed how the there is a little bit of “play” in the lifter when extended (v8 mode). So unless you physically change some parts it seems a DOD delete kit would not prevent wear. However it seems the lifters were designed to handle a good amount of wear.

Usually but not always you will have to pull the valve cover off and check. In case you haven't see it yet here is my most recent release video on this topic kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html

A longer lasting engine, use lt1swap.com he is very reasonable.

If it was the VLOM it would effect both lifters on that cylinder. It's probably a spun lifter from a bad plastic guide. You will likely end up with a damaged lifter roller and need a camshaft because of it. The camshaft may look good at first but if the lifter roller is damaged so is the camshaft. Time for a full mechanical delete. I have lots of information on this in various post on my forum at CrazedPerformanceRepair.com

You can purchase it on my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com

Can get complicated, best bet is do AFM/DOD full delete. Then turn it off in tune.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Meh my engine has 214000 on it and I can get an 04 Envoy engine from a wreck with 175 for 500 bucks. I'm still going to need an 03/04 cam to do the delete because they change the cam in 07, 95/06 AFM is special. Oh well I'll be buying stuff from you soon.

@@edmikula9637 you can get a non AFM cam from Texas speed for $100 you would still need all the rest of the non AFM stuff anyway and still end up spending $500ish to delete it. The good news is at 200k these engines bottom end is just past break in. I've seen so many of these over 400k mi. Of course only after AFM is addressed though lol. My lifter release is a good solution on a budget as long as it hasn't been driven on very much.

My rate is $90per hr and assuming I'm selling the parts lifter release is $500-700 but if a full delete is needed that can run upwards of $4500 and there are other options in between. So there is a huge price range depending on circumstance of $500-4500ish.

The hydraulic part still functions but, DON'T lengthen the pushrod. If you do the roller will rub against the inner portion of the lifter. This of course will damage the lifter, camshaft and send metal into the engine. If you had a lifter failed with AFM/DOD off it could of failed because of a bad/plugged VLOM. If that is the case, the lifter release and VLOM mod could still fix it. Most likely though you have a situation where the lifter spun and you will now need a full delete anyway. Good luck and happy fixing.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Well son of a gun!! Thank you for such a quick reply. Let the fun begin!

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Hey, if I buy your VLOM block insert, is that just as good as the metal inserts for the oil passages towards the lifters? Some of the kits include a normal valley cover that plug up those holes, but I am assuming I can just use the VLOM plate and just block off the oil supply and save money that way...Would that be correct? Also, is the stock DOD cam a single bolt that I can directly swap with the non-dod single bolt stock 5.3 cam. Im trying to stay factory cam specs(besides non-dod/afm) so I don't need a full remap style tune

For more information on the VLOM mod click here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rqyia7epzN6un6s.html as for the camshaft you can get a replacement non AFM camshaft from many places, one example is Texas Speed.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Well, you were right. Lifter spun in the tray and pitted it pretty good along with beating the cam lobe up nicely as well. What do you think...Do I trash the motor since it could get to the main bearings or do I do the DOD delete and hope it all caught in the filter and didn't get into anything important? Still confuses me that it was missing since the valves seemed to be opening and closing and the lifter wasnt collapsed

Might have rotated a lifter because of a bad plastic guide.

Yes that eliminates the DOD problems if the truck runs fine just get the range device for now amzn.to/2SXli0z just double check if it supports a 2018.

It sucks they wont ship the range device to California, so I had it shipped to a friend in a different state and they will ship it to me in California

You might just have a bad sensor.

CrazedPerformanceRepair it was fine before I deleted the AFM. I bought the VLOM plug from you. Came in the mail yesterday going to install that today. Maybe that will fix it, but I put half a bottle of sea foam in the oil which helped. It no longer goes to zero psi. Goes to 25 and increases with rpm now. Before the delete it always stayed at 40 psi at idle.

@@williampayne645 If anything sea foam should have made it worse. Did you pull the little filter under the sensor out yet?

CrazedPerformanceRepair not yet. Was going to but with the plug the filter goes to trash so I didn’t want to waste money buying another. I’m new to the LS world. All my knowledge is old Chevy small block. Got a lot to learn

I replaced the lifter that clapped in my suburban got it all back together and now acts like it’s stuck in 4 cylinder mode 1-7-4-6 all not working at idle or going down the road what the problem all it had was a collapsed lifter on number 4 before?

They run high because of this system they added a high volume oil pump from the manufacturer.

CrazedPerformanceRepair I was told that before, I just wanted to double check with you because your very knowledge full when it comes to things like this. I appreciate all the help man.

My oil pump had been replaced as part of the warranty repair(s) but the pressure is only high when cold then moderated to under 40 at cruising speed and around 20 at idle, so far no ticking or codes present

@@drop2015 is yours older than 2007?

CrazedPerformanceRepair sorry replied to wrong spot. It had 52,000 when it started 1st time, 61,000 on 2nd failure

Lt1swap.com can disable the AFM for only $50 all you have to do is cover shipping cost of shipping the ECM to him. Yes turning it off will help prolong it. You could still have a lifter spin though. Also be sure to check for loose vlom bolts.

Check if the rocker is moving like I do here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prZnfJilx77Xlqs.html

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair okay so figured out my exhaust valve isn't fully seating. No.compression. But when I back off the rocker arm it seats fine with plenty compression. I even strarted the truck and it ran great. What should I do??

The computer commands the solenoids to activate. The oil pressure sensor is just to keep an eye on the oil pressure.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Do you know what condition causes the ECU to command the solenoid

A series of conditions must be met to activate the system such as certain load conditions and transmission gear ect.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair interesting. That DOD AFM system is intriguing. Reason I asked is I got a obd2 for a faulty ops and it seemed like the dod systems was acting weird

When the valve stay closed The piston acts as a spring. When the engine compresses the gases the gases push the engine back in the momentum after it hits top dead center. This makes it act as though it doesn't even have a cylinder there because for the action that is compressing the reaction is uncompressing via the pressure that it built up. So the end result is a very minimal loss in rotating. As far as oil pressure pushing the lifter up, that's not even a possible thing with it's design. The camshaft is the part that opens the valve via a cam lobe profile. As a cam lobe lifts up on the lifter but lifter pushes on the pushrod, the pushrod pushes on the rocker, and the rocker pushes down on the valve opening it. The oil pressure that is applied to the hydraulic portion of the lifter is simply there to allow the lifter a little bit of self-adjustment for the valtrain components. The oil pressure that is applied to the top of the AFM lifters serves a completely different function. That function is to disengage the locks inside the AFM portion of the lifter only. From the bottom side of the lifter is a main oil gallery that feeds the hydraulic portion of the lifter. So there is two hydraulic actions going on, one is to allow the lifter to lift the pushrod and simultaneously allow for variables in the valve train as far as making sure it stays tight to the valve, The other function is strictly for the AFM locks. Hopefully that clears it up.

The lifter could also be spun, you can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.

If doing a full delete, yes. The AFM camshaft has a different cam profile for the AFM lifters.

Yes

That wont work for many reasons kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rqyia7epzN6un6s.html

But isn't it the same concept of blocking the oil from reaching the lifters?

@@josephbattaglia2727 no because that will block the oil from getting out of the oil towers.

I watched the videos, but I don't understand the oil in the towers thought that would activate the lifter disabler

@@josephbattaglia2727 yes oil pressure activates the disablement of the lifters. However there is an oil passage under the lifters as well so by default the VLOM bleeds off the excess oil flow that goes around the lifter and up the tower. If you block the tower it will eventually build up oil pressure.

No you can not the computer does not like it. I have a vlom modification video if the DOD has been disable in the computer.

The lifters hydraulic side gets its oil from a different location (underside) not the valley plate. If it got its oil from the valley plate eight of the lifters would be without oil because there are only eight holes and 16 lifters.

CrazedPerformanceRepair ( so you agree then .. if # one cylinder lifter /lifters is disabled and stuck .. changing oil or screen is not going to help in this case ? Because oil is what disables it right ..So if no oil or lack of is getting to it because of screen plugged it should use the spring pressure to go back to normal .. but can’t because a paw is probably jammed.? Just wondering if you agree on my theory? Reason I’m struggling with this is ... #1 cylinder is missing and testing 0-20 psi compression with about 10 tests but 1 of the 10 times it gave me a130lbs compression.. but only once and then went back to 0-20 on tests after that .. ( if these paws jam so tight you have to wack them with the special tool (I understand that ) but how did mine release and then collapse again all on its own ?.. ( no intervention) ? Thoughts ? Also the oil pressure gauge in cab is in normal range , no ticking sounds and and oil looks good to )

@@wolfnewman9432 the lifters get stuck due to lack of oil pressure during activation. you could also have a spun lifter however which will collapse every time you crank it over long enough for oil pressure to build up. What you need to do is pull the valve cover and check the rocker to see if any of them are loose. If you have a loose rocker at any point in the rotation it is a stuck lifter. If the rocker is never loose but you probably between the valve stem and The rocker but the push rod goes down then the lifter locks are not engaging. If everything seems normal but as soon as it has oil pressure a rocker stops moving while cranking with starter relay then you likely have a spun lifter.

CrazedPerformanceRepair 👌👍

Intake rocker only moves a bit when cranking like 1/4 movement of the others .. Took out push rod and when I push down on it it moves springy but only a 1/4 “ ..it’s never loose but only moves valve rocker just a bit ..

Google GM service bulletin 10-06-01-008G. I replaced the driver side valve cover on my 2007 suburban and that helped a lot. Still uses oil, but now is "in spec" according to GM.

No

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank you. This has been a very stressful thing having a truck with 71,000 miles stop running that had been maintained per GM requirements and to be honest not driven hard at all .

@@lucky-rowe2623 hopefully you are doing oil changes much sooner than recommended. That oil life thing in the dash is usually crazy high miles

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair around 4000 miles most of the time. 1 time we went 5500. What was the factory spec? Thanks for taking time answering this.

@@lucky-rowe2623 depends on year but that oil life monitor in the dash is typically 8-12k miles. 4k miles is good though as long as it's full synthetic or highway only miles.

I'm in Minnesota.

Minnesota

Hey so i have a 2007 Yukon Denali it doesn’t knock but it jerks ands pauses at low speeds i was thinking it was the transmission but it might be the vlam?

Do you have any codes?

CrazedPerformanceRepair no codes

In Minnesota

Ok dam wish you were close to Texas my 2007 GMC Sierra just started lifter tapping

Yes very much so.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair what it cost for system to be turned off ?

@@juanalvarado3988 depends on how you go about it the shop and the vehicle tune wise any where from 150-300

@@CrazedPerformanceRepairWill purchasing a Range AFM disabler cure this issue? Or does it need to be tuned using HP tuners?

@@AbdulKhan-fg8ig As long as it is never accidentally bumped off the obd2 port or you don't blow the fuse which in many cases is the same fuse as the cigarette lighter circuit. Only time I recommend the range is to get to a tuner or to disable the system because it hasn't failed yet and you are still under warranty.

It's definitely available. Not sure why you think it's not. Message me on crazedperformancerepair.com if you are still having issues.

You certainly could problem is if your vlom has failed in a matter that causes issues while inactive it will need to be replaced.

Itll still fail. Best bet is to delete and tune.

Turn off the system in the tune. If something fails to damage the camshaft do an actual AFM delete. These engines are awesome and extremely reliable if the AFM trash is removed. I wouldn't have replaced a single engine in your vehicle over something related to valve train issues. Any repairs done would have been cheaper than replacement as well. It's a real shame that so many shops condemn engines that should be saved. Finding a actual mechanic in this through away society is difficult at best.

Yes, otherwise fuel puddles behind intake valve.