Thanks for watching!

That's awesome I'm glad it helped! You aren't kidding I'm sure it was tough doing it on the ground, that's twice the job getting up and down. Thanks for watching! 👀

Man I have a 2019 3.6 awd journey I hope it doesn’t cost me an arm and a leg for future repairs I know at 60k I will change transmission filter and fluid Also change the ptu and rda fluid but man I’m scared

Just keep up on the oil changes. Maybe use full syn. Want to try and keep the oil passages clean and all the timing components well oiled.

What symptoms of broken flex plate. I’ve noticed mine is bent pretty bad

Yeah buddy, these aren't to bad honestly just gotta be patient when you're wrestling it out. I highly recommend strapping the trans to the jack. It may just be shift adapts, but alldata should tell you the procedure. If not just call your local dealer, they should be able to inform you. Better safe than sorry with a nice pretty reman! 😍🤑

I'm not sure thats possible. How would you block where the transfer unit is supposed to be? I'm not sure if it's possible.

I include everything it takes to remove I just dont verbally say much sorry. Ill try to say more about things.

Any answer to this question

@@jonasjones85 You don't need to reprogram it Just make sure the replacement transmission is in good conditions you are good to go

There is a quick learn you gotta do. Your need a scanner to do that.

Well, in my case , I didn't need to reprogram it, we got a very low mileage used transmission and it is still working nicely. Thanks for the tip though.

It can jump time when rotated backwards. There are a number of chains and tensioners in there that are only meant to apply pressure in the clockwise rotation. You may have gotten lucky! I hope you did!

So it didn't really have mounting points. I put it on the pan it may be able to come away from the block far enough to fit a wrench or long ratchet in there for the plate. Ive never tried but if you're doing it at home with no lift I would try. As far as torque specs, just make sure its tight. Hah. I hope that helps!

@@CarMechaNick thanks for the reply Nick that definitely helps. 1 other question I have...p sure I know the answer to is is to rotate motor I put socket on crankbolt and rotate clockwise correct ? also should I replace the torque convertor seal if it's oem? or if its good just send it?again tyvm man much love from Onterrible Canada

I wouldn't remove the torque converter if you never have before. They are filled with fluid so make sure after you remove the converter bolts to try pushing the converter into trans. Otherwise it may come out some on separation. The seals in the converter may tear also. You are on it man use a a socket and wrench and rotate clockwise. Its good knowing it helps stay warm up there! Lmk if you have any other questions.

@@CarMechaNick I wish I didn't have to remove it, but I gotta to drain and refill. Gotta drain trans and replace filter cause as you know ... Mopar stands for most original parts already replaced.... except for the trans fluid they deem "lifetime" Staying warm is the plan, Got a crazy warm spell of 15-20 c until next week, Fkn crazy for November in Canada. Ty for your help and time dude.

The filters aren't bad to do on these either. Though I think you will need some torx sockets, I think its 2 torx screws holding in the filter. Haha its warm here in Ohio too I can't wait for some snow though! I also find these lifetime transmission skeptical. I would honestly just remove the pan and filter and just let the fluid in the converter mix with the new. You have to make sure the converter clicks all the way onto mainshaft or there will be issues when you mate them back together. Best of luck my friend! 👍

I don't remove it personally but I have seen guys that do. Sorry for the late reply!

@@CarMechaNick Awesome, thanks for the response! The PTU, I see alot of problems with them breaking, should have been a recall. Mine broke in half!

How did your removal go? I just started pulling the trans in my better half’s AWD ‘17. Torque converter died and starved the pump of fluid when it plugged the filter. I’ve heard so much back and forth on what all needs to come out when dealing with the PTU. Some say they’ve got to drop the sub frame, and exhaust to get it out. Others say attack it with sockets and long extensions. Hoping thats the case

No reason to remove sub frame. Tranny and PTU came out with engine, exhaust and frame in place. However, come in 90 degrees on the passenger shaft brackets with long extensions through the rear of exhaust #1 and #2 the rear transmission to engine bolt behind the PTU get from overhead front, don't try and use swivels as the PTU sticks out 1/8" into direct socket contact. Engineering is wonderful on this one. Finally #3, expand your vocabulary! One of the bolts on PTU to rear mount was seized. I ended up cutting it out but realized some new combinations of words that as a Navy vet surprised even myself!

@@DollarBill4u Appreicste the tips. Got the ball rolling on the removal on Sunday, but didn’t quite get it all the way out. Basically all that’s left to do is get those PTU bolts out, and unbolt the torque converter. Probably going to jinx myself a little bit, but it’s been a smoother process than I imagined. We’ll see if that persists when dealing with those troublesome PTU bolts. 😂

Sounds like your wheels need balanced. 😁

Its not the worst. You don't have a subframe to remove so it makes it easier to accomplish at home.

did u fix it? what was it if u did

It's a job I wouldn't let just anyone attempt. Not sure about the cost 🤔 prices will vary based on area and shop labor.

Look underneath, but that would be some sheisty ass people to do that without having permission.

You have to her under the car for sure. Does it have codes?

Yes but it's only saying left rear speed sensor wheel bearing. And it's definitely not that giving the issues.

@@CarMechaNick or not only that giving issues

It's does fine if I'm driving straight, it's when I turn that it binds up and doesn't want to go

@@lorigottfried6385 sounds like power steering

Put the steel gasket back for sure. I would fill it the best you can. You can get the proper dipstick off Amazon. Or use one you have laying around thats long enough. You measure the height of the fluid based on temp. You will need to check trans temp and follow proper graph to know what level you should have at a certain temperature. Hope that helps!

A lot of times there is a plate or shim between the engine and the transmission. That sets the clearance in between the torque converter and the front snout/front pump housing. You should always put that back on. If it continually falls down when you reassemble the bell housing, some people put some rtv around the alignment pins to help hold it in place.

I use rtv on every single jeep engine. That plate never wants to stay there.

@@CarMechaNick I know right! Art least the torque converter doesn't have studs like some Fords do. A real pain to line up the converter before mating the trans to the engine.

I think to myself when I'm doing Fords if other people think these things. I'm like who the F. GM with the narrowed hole is absolutely perfect. It's perfect ever single time. You for sure know your way around these turds! 🤌

Typically find them on the valve body, which is inside.

I do so many ita hard to remember. You can check procedures on all data. Or call your local service department to ask

I guess so 🙃

Mines only took about 15 minutes. Gotta know what to do.

Nope.

Transmission work is never cheap.

It's honestly not bad. The hardest part imo is actually getting it out and in, being careful not to damage the ring for the crank sensor.

I just bought a 2012 journey r/t run and drive but says mechanical damage so I’m scared to know what the damage is so I’ve been on KZfaq searching possible problem I could face and this looks discouraging . Fingers crossed it’s not a major issue man kudos to you for knowing how to handle situations like this .

They can have a few different major issues, I hope yours are simple. Good luck!

@@CarMechaNick UPDATE: so after driving the R/t from auction for roughly 3 weeks , check engine popped up on dash , i plugged in my obd reader and 1 code popped up (P0729 - Gear 6 Incorrect ratio) , still runs and drives but hits high rpm above id say 45mph , is this a simple fix or should i just part the car out ? really dont want to let it go , its not a bad vehicle .. HELP NICK!!! lol

@@LoadScreenYT what did u end up doing?