When I read the title, I initially thought this meant you were going to somehow try running the printers underwater. 😂😂

I went through similar experiments when I was designing my ROV - needed plenty of printed parts that wouldn't leak, such as electronics tube endcaps, which should be removable. After much experimenting with 10+ materials I stayed with FDM and PLA, covered with 3 thin coats of epoxy. They key is sanding the part and getting at least 3 coats, because by then epoxy self-levels enough to provide smooth enough surface for interfacing with O-rings without leaking. Parts must be printed at 100% infill and be rigid enough to prevent bending due to pressure, otherwise that will crack epoxy and cause leaks. With sufficient testing, I was able to achieve removable parts (with O-rings) that could stay at 10 bar (100m depth) pressure for 24 hours without any leakage whatsoever. While SLA removes the need for using epoxy, it is far more brittle than PLA and I found parts need to be much thicker to prevent implosion. True, epoxy is a bit of a mess to work with, but so is SLA. So in the end I used PLA + epoxy + O-rings, with great success. As for electrical connections, passing bare copper wires through holes in the printed part and filled with epoxy is a must. I actually found that thin copper rods work even better than wires, since they are easier to soak without accidentally leaving pathways between strands for water to ingress, and you can also solder wires to them later. Let me know if you have questions, I would be happy to provide more details.

Love that you found the common and scientific name for each species!

Best Prusa video ever. real world failures are such an education!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice work and your tenacity is what will make the company better and prosper.

That’s a super cool project! Thanks for sharing.

Super že se zabýváte i těmadle projektama a ukazujete vývoj skrze nezdary. 👍

It was fun to watch this. I have theory paper submitted on the 3d printed submersible. This inspires me to work on it further.

Awesome video! Incredible photography! Thank you for your research! Near 50 Meters, Nice! Great work.

Filling the cavity with silicone is genius! I've been racking my brain trying to solve a potting solution, this is just the ticket!

In fact, you can even print useable parts for ‘full ocean depth’ (FOD) We print parts for our FOD science landers and Submersible all the time. And actually, they sometimes even can be hollow, when you deliberately want the infill to be saturated with water. However we only use it for structural brackets and pads. @Prusa 3D, try compensating your housing with an electricly insulating oil. Also helps with your heat transfer. #InkFish… Deeply Curious

I've been working on making my own 3D printed underwater ROV based on the CPSdrone design. All the parts are printed, I just need to finish assembling. Hopefully it will be in the water this spring ^_^

Looks like any FDM will have to have a salt mold re-melt to be viable. On the plus side, it will seal to any wires in the process.

*Nice to see Prusa clips with description instead of porn music. THANK YOU!*

I've done a tray and trigger system that worked pretty well and lens caps for scuba photography, but arms have always been too brittle for me and I am not a good enough designer for anything to be water tight lol. I think 3d printing is also great for travel battery organizers.

Amazing wildlife, and interesting how you had to switch to resin printing to make it work. ... MMU3 for Mk4 soon?

Nice (and I don't mean that city in France). That pointed me in a direction other then putting PLA on PLA. Can't wait to get my MMU3 upgrade kit.

I designed a rain-style water fountain on my Prusa mini and I have had decent success getting water-tight prints but when I chemically treat the fountain with a mild bleach solution, it usually develops a leak in the PETG. I guess bleach rots most plastics. Did you guys have any tips on how to make a more water-tight FDM print? I usually just do lots of walls and top/bottom layers. I wish I had a Prusa Resin printer but it's just not an option for me right now.

"hey, josef, unfortunately we cannot test our stuff in czechia but HAVE to visit the red sea instead. we will send you the receipts per email later, thanks, cya"

i wish there was a way to achieve underwater water tight with FDM prints without post processing. you can achieve water tight prints for normal use with TPU filaments. such as vases.. but not for underwater usage

You cant print parts for diving hollow. Meaning, they have to be solid, no infill. Water will creep inside, and stay there. No good. I design and produce lots of diving products, using down to 100m.

Woo that's pretty cool, makes sense FDM wouldn't be reliable underwater

very cool!

For an rc submersible, an acrylic pipe or a PVC pipe are quite suitable

Wow!

"... cars extended warranty ...." 💀

Looks like we have the same passions, 3D and Scuba. If you need to test CCR stuff or simply deeper pressures, let me know, I'll be happy to test

Nice work! Diving holiday as business expense? ;)

make a dslr case !

"implosion sound" ... Heh... Triggered!

just fill that lamp with crystal cleal silicon or epoxy so there is no room where water can go.

¨Did you adjust your live Z?¨ jajajaja. Hilarious.

Класс👌

Noice.

Hele vakuovou nádobu si v pohodě vyrobíš na koleně z nerezovýho hrnce, kusu tlustýho plexiskla a tesnící gumy. Dělá to nějakej youtuber a funguje mu to. 😉🤓

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