Solid advice! I'd like to point out that if a print uses more material, but succeeds 100% of the time, it technically saves you filament compared to another print that uses less per print but succeeds only 80% of the time. PS: First time I'm hearing about "removing supports with a hammer" though 🤣

One thing I would like to see in the organic supports is automatic cross-support between the pillars. If the pillars could "hold" eachother up in the lower sections they would be much sturdier. Also it would be nice to have a seperate support brim that would try to connect remote support pillars together with the others on the support plate. That would already cover 80% of the fail cases I'm encountering.

It would be a great option if slicers had a “paint on brim” option. Just like painting on support, but paint the areas where you want a brim. You could paint the whole base, or just little dots around specific areas. Would be easier than adding mouse ears manually and give you a lot more control.

As a long time subscriber who watches the video because it's good, not because of the thumbnail/title, I find the clickbaity things absolutely hilarious! Neat tutorial as always, supports are such an annoyance in some way or another so it's great to have little tips like these to help.

Is that a fursuit head base? Don't ask me how I know...

Thanks for the tips! I've never understood how you get such clean prints where the support is. On mine whatever the support is supporting looks terrible. Stringy like I can see the string of filament the size of the nozzle and the layers aren't bonded well in the X-Y directions. For this reason I really hate support of any kind.

I wish I knew this stuff a couple weeks ago. I've been printing my first ever cosplay helmet and getting it to succeed with proper supports has been a headache and a half! Still very helpful, thanks!

Very informative and ive just done it to a specific print that failed on me twoce and third time with custom support that you've shown has made it a success. Thank you!

My X1-C arrived less then 5 hrs ago, and was about to do mess around with supports to get them close to my flashforge. Then your video popped up and i couldn't ask for a better timing lol Awesome video, keep it up!

OH MY GOD. The interface layers come off sooo much easier when you use rectilinear grid supports! I'm going to be doing this on all my supported prints from now on!

Thanks!! I've struggled with supports for years!! Gonna try your settings right away!!

Interesting, these are the things I changed but had to learn myself middle of last year when I was doing a print with very little contact, massive overhangs with sharp edges. Painting on supports was a game changer for me and not wasting time with failing prints. Great tips as usual.

Thank you so much for including instruction for the Bambu slicer since that is what I use exclusively. Can't wait to give it a try!

Thanks for the hot tip! I'll be checking my settings for future prints!

I needed this video last month. I was printing some scanned models with this same problem of failed prints with organic supports. I will be trying this tonight.

One of yhr most useful and concise tutorials for 3d printing supports. Thank you mate.

I love how this video, beyond its excellent general applicability, also apears to be a little nod to a very specific audience. xD

Amazing video - simple change and much better results. I have to test this - so far I am avoiding any support as much as possible, as it always fused so far, but with this and better layer separation...

Omg thank you so much for this tutorial! Watching this before bed but I will definitely be trying this on my Bambu P1S tomorrow!

Thanks for the video Angus. In addition to being informative, it was very satisfying to watch.

once again a valuable tutorial with great information and explanation, Thanks Angus

I needed this video a month ago.. had exactly this problem and it gave me a ton of postprocessing work.

Outstanding technique! Thanks a bunch Angus.

I used organic supports on a petg print with a 90 degree overhang. It was a tool holder for the prusa mini. 5.86g of filament vs 18.20g for grid. Also saved 42 minutes of print time.

The most useful vidoe I've seen on 3d priting in Months. Solves exactly a problem I'm having with a helmet.

Beautifully done Angus!

Thanks Angus this is great. I love the tips n tricks in Prusa Slicer and Bamboo Studio. Just got my X1 its amazing but did have a spaghetti failure on a thin part. Great to see ways to better use these tools.

great advice, as always. this works even on industrial FFF printers, with no cooling fans and complete chamber temp control.

This is so.ething ill have to consider in future large prints. Thanks for sharing this info.

Super helpful information, and excellent tutorial. Thank you very much.

Awesome Thanks for that! The Print time even went down with custom supports.

always dropping wise words, angus. great job !

4:17 I used to do this with Simplify 3D I would do a 90Degree shift in the support every other layer and it was super strong. I did it for all the reasons you highlighted.

Really loved this educational style video, I learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing this technique. 😃

I was hoping the interface layer gap would be covered. It feels like I have to fiddle with that value for every material I use.

Really thorough video! Great Tips .......... You should do more clearly explained slicer videos like this in the future very helpful

@10:13 A BRIM! YES! Brims are the unsung heroes man.

Your videos are always very interesting to watch and extremly informative. Thanks for all the time and effort you put in to make these informative videos. I wanted to let you know that one of the old videos of yours where you showed and used the G10/Garolite sheet as print bed has helped me tons. I use a Ender 3 Pro and have switched to G10 instead of the default magnetic sheet that comes as stock.after watching that video of yours and I should say, its an superb print bed option and super cheap as well. I print PLA, PETG and sometimes ABS as well and ngetting the prints off the bed has never been so easy. Its like magic... the prints just come off the G10 bed after its cooled a bit like they were just kept there. However I request you to re-visit the G10/Garolite bed but this time with the possibility of using it on the Bambu Labs X1C and the A1 Mini and share your findings. If they G10/Garolite can even be used on these printers or not and what were the challenges to use it and is it worth using the G10/Garolite on these highend printers instead of the stock beds or the coated PEI sheets.

Great! Like the bambu slicer info …

Very informative. I have a printer on order and have never printed before. Great video!

Very interesting topic, thanks for covering this!

I'm happy the classics like rectilinear grid support still work. I remember you making the same suggestion almost 7 years ago for Simplify3D when that application was still relevant.

Omg thank you. I am new to printing and I am using a delta printer fl sun v400 for printing large pieces. This so exactly what I needed

Those release so clean. Awesome

I like to use S3D supports that are rectilinear but shift 90° after every X layers. This not only made the structure rigid but also saves me more support material and printing time. Maybe it's possible with the other slicers. I also combine or discard very thin supports.

Good job Angus. You are awesome!

I’m gonna have to try out that cupping technique, looks awesome

What I did to solve al the stability issues you mention is to add 5 to 10% infill to the Organic Supports, zero fails since then. and the interface to 60% and 2 layers of gap in my crappy extruder.

Have you tried increasing 'tree branch wall loops' (Orca/BBS)? This will increase the wall loops to all the branches making them stronger for tall prints.

Thanks for the tutorial. Is there anyway you can tell the equivalent settings for Cura slicer?

tree supports should have canopies too, to save material but also support the print as good as possible... plus you have cute little trees with foliage at the end of each supported print 😂

Brilliant guide. Lots of good tips for better quality prints. Going to give your settings a go soon and see if it helps.

Wonderful! Thank you for doing this.

Great video, also love the kemono base :p

Great Video. Nobody appears to talk about different support interface settings. I have tried changing these but none make any difference to how hard it is to get the supports off. Can you do a video on this if you have not already done one. And where to use different settings in different places including the default settings that need to be changed for different slicers. Thanks, keep up the good work, I watch every video you have made and really enjoyed you sulfur crested cocky puzzle videos. (I now tell tourists I serve that we call them "flying bolt cutters")

For tree I found giving 2 walls has helped their reliability significantly, 0.1mm gap between model as well has helped a lot too.

I always love your videos , always great information.

00:29 "...as satisfing as THIS" liked already. I don't need anything else

I contacted you about print supports in TPU, you shared your MK4 profile with me but as far as i could tell it was just stock support settings. (nothing was really transfered) I would love to see a video how you were able to get thos TPU supports to come off so easily. there is very little to no info online except. "dont do it" but your video proved its quite possible. Hopefully its not limited to the Mk4 as i have a p1p and mk3s+

I almost always use that method - It proved perfectly reliable even in serial production without a single faillure. Printing the interface in a minimum adhesive material (object PLA, interface PETG or vice versa) finally makes the breakaways perfect

Cool technique and great results! I've been using tree supports in Cura (I need the slicing tolerance setting that's not available in other slicers yet). The "branch diameter angle" setting helps me avoid issues with the branches falling over.

I clicked this video for stuff about 3D printing and I was not expecting to see a really big 3D printing youtube holding a part of a fursuit head base. You just earned a sub Maker's Muse!

You probably use more material for support rather than part but for this kind of shape you are right there might be no other way to print it. I hate supports like everyone else does. But some parts dictates the use of them

Thank you. I have had a hard time with this exact thing printing a Magneto helmet. I still haven't gotten a successful print, so I will try and figure out how to do this in Cura.

Good tips in this video. The snug supports don't work for anything tall without warping. That led me to using Organic supports mainly.

That support removal is so satisfying!

For the same reliability and filament use, but lower time, i reduce the support infill density (this is because the effective support infill density increases greatly with the 90 degree grid) but then increase the support extrusion width so the layers join together better for more stiffness/strength, and at small layer heights you aren't close to your extruders limits either. Some slicers support combined support layers, i do this too sometimes as its "uglier" but it doesn't matter if you're going to throw it away

Super helpful, thanks!

Thanks for making this content!

Thx for the hints!!!!

Holy that's amazing!

Learned a thing or two there, thanks Angus :)

I want to thank you for this info. I just printed a dragon that’s 10” across and used “tree” supports. Boy when I was done after 13 hours I could NOT remove supports by hands alone. I needed pliers , needle nose pliers just to remove the tree supports. I can’t wait to try Prusa slicer with those settings. On a side question: how do you keep your filament dry?

Great suggestions, Angus! Will definitely try it soon. Can you show what the past actually is?

That support removal scene though... Serious ASMR

Great one advice, can you also explain what settings are you using for middle-layer between supports and model to click-off it so easily?

Looks good, shall try that. What is your everyday support setting, particularly interface settings? In Orca slim tree with 2 interface layers 0 16 distance seems to work well, but always looking for better. Thanks for sharing Angus

boy I hope Prusa team is watching and making these improvements

Good advice, thanks. I would also be interested to know what interface settings you use.

Thanks! That was very helpful

With a dual print head you can use PETG as a dense support layer with a PLA Part. And no gap between the support and the part... works great...

thank you for a very useful and clear explanation, i don't own a printer yet, but have learned a lot. may we know what you are making?

Definitely going to try this next time I need supports.

You are such a superhero!

I've only recently started using the paint on feature for supports in Prusa and I didn't realize about the auto fill feature lol. I've seen it but never played around with it. The supports were something I always hated in Prusa compared to Cura but overall I prefer Prusa slicer for everything else, I always found the supports in Cura easier to remove but I will be changing my settings and see how this compares and I've started to dabble in Orca slicer as I really like the multiple build plate option for larger projects but will have to see how it compares overall.

You could speed up those columnar supports by modelling a hollow column that ends in a dome-like surface near where the supports are really needed. It's much faster to print some kind of circular path than a whole load of zig-zags because the amount of acceleration and decelerations requried for zig-zagging keeps the print head speed low.

thank you for this, been trying to print something for the last week and the supports would get 85% to where the model and the support would finally touch and then fail.

Something I never understood: why do all slicers try to detect and support overhangs BEFORE slicing instead of AFTER? Everything from layer thickness/line width and even infill can affect the interfacing between the part and support. So it's like the slicer is making supports for an "ideal mesh" that doesn't exist anymore by the time it's sliced, it should let you calculate/model supports after the model is sliced.

Thank you Angus, insightful as always. I've been trying to find a solution to a problem that I've had since buying my first printer, I want to print FCS fins in PETG CF for surfboards and in order to have strength integrity they need to be printed horizontally and the problem comes when I remove the support it has fixed very firmly and so I have to sand it to get off completely but it ruins the look of one side of the fin, do you have any suggestions in this regard?

That Brim Gap caused a lot of headaches when I was still a noob, especially when nobody ever mentioned it. Most people just assumed that I hadn't leveled the bed yet, and ended up causing more problems along the way. Not sure why Prusa set it 0.1 gap as default.

Not sure if you've done this previously but can you make a similar(ish) video/lesson on 3d printing silicone, not just the basics but things like multicolour. E.g. if you had a clothing label which you wanted to make (beyond the print one colour then another on top), what things would you need to set, practice or test.

Whaaat you didn't even show where you use the finished object! 😱- Thanks for the tutorial, I think I have use for these settings! Btw is there a way to mix different support structures on one print? (I mean without exporting and reimporting the sliced model...)

I'd love to try this, as I do a lot of Cosplay prints, but I'm have a hard time setting up PrusaSlicer. I have a Tronxy x5sa, and adding a printer that is not on the list is not very intuitive.

I wish non planar slicing would be a thing, that mask could probably be printed basically without support then, and the layers would follow the curveature of the mask instead of just being ”flat”

Maker's Muse ASMR channel: snap your support everyday :)

What do you use for your interface between the Support and the model. To make it easier to remove. I noticed you didn’t cover that in the settings.

fantastic tips

Is there a way of selecting multiple support types on the same print? What I am talking about is a single print that would use grid, and some of the same part that would be better just linear (enclosed areas) that are better squishable.

In general we could benefit from better support generators. For instance my printer can handle overhangs much flatter than 45 degrees but htey will be UGLY - meaning it could build an ugly support mesh that follows the model quite closely, then build a little bit of that removable light support between, and put the model on top. Bed adhesion hasn't been a problem for tall, thin things so far, so it could push this for sure.

The music is back baby! Angus - when will you make a tutorial into the secrets of your SoundCloud??