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The included angle of the plates has a large effect on the argon flow needed. A fillet weld typically has a 90 degree included angle which will confine the argon. A corner weld generally has a 270 degree included angle which will do the opposite, requiring increased argon flow. You could test argon flow needed for included angles of 90, 180 and 270 degrees.

Checking flow rate at the cup is a great way to eliminate those uncertainties in your equipment. Sometimes it’s just not 100% accurate at the valve. Also I gotta say the content has been very timely for me as I’ve just been assigned a handful of aluminum jobs at work. I’ve learned tons from the channel so far and I look forward to learning more!

I personally like a smaller cup to try and minimize the etching around the weld, but as soon as you said that 20 usually works fine, my mind went to flow check/ regulator problem/ dirty gas. It really can be amazing sometimes how we just take it for fact that we’re welding at X amps, and Y flow when that really may not be the case. Great video👍🏻

The Argon checker seems like a must have for a professional welder.

You, This old Tony and AvE should get together and make a full length movie.

My flowmeter is off by about 15%. Additionally I always add some extra gas volume when welding outside corners as I believe the shape of the aluminum splits the argon and it doesn't stay at the cup

I was having the same problem with my aluminum welds having peppering and contaminations in it until I bought a flow tube like the gentleman had and I've noticed two from my 12 ft TIG torch to my 25 ft tig torch there's always a variation in the flow and I never trust the meter on my regulator. Thank you for all the tips and tricks Jody keep up the good work and keep up the good videos. 👍👍👍👍👍 I also have a primeweld tig225x now for about 3 years with the water cooler w/flex-loc torch. It is been flawless not one problem.....

I loved it. I've been really getting into TID welding lately, and your content has really helped me in getting better, thanks Jody.

Thanks Jody! Learn something new every day useful in the real world

I really appreciate all the informative videos! Keep up the great content.

Thanks Jody

Very interesting and informative. Thanks Jody.

great lesson, thanks

TROUBLESHOOTING... PRICELESS SKILL THANKS BROTHERS

fantastic information Jody and Andrew......cheers from Orlando...Paul

Thanks Jody great content the flow meter to see if the flow meter is accurate to real flow I had peppering in the puddle in the past this is not enough flow great stuff !

I worked on building powerline substation. We had 6" Aluminum schedule 80 round buss work with cast fittings. The welders started using a mixed gas for the aluminum and it helped a lot I don't remember the mix but I am pretty sure it had helium in it.

Very interesting. I am learning, how to weld aluminium by myself and i am always glad, to get new input. Altough this argon is not cheap, i will give it a try and increase the flow next time.

Super le réglage de l'argon. Merci

Awesome knowledge thank you

Mornin Jody☕️ I’m going to go raise the ball and play. Thanks ✌️

Maybe it's the outside angle that accentuates the issue?

Hold on a pea shooting what ? argon flow measurer. Great show mate keep up the good work.

Correct yes. I always use the standard 8 cup with 3.2, I tried the number 7 and other argon flows but for some reason it never feels right for me. Balance settings -0.5 most of the time, if it ain't the settings ... then it will be me. Same goes for 1.6 with cup 3.... 4 works better for me.

Jody, I have noticed in 5/32-0.160" & heavier 5052 & 5086 that a sheared or band sawed edge will introduce enough 'junk' to salt and pepper even high flow argon welds. I find that by sanding the plate edge or using a Vixen file and de-burring the edges of the plate will help to clean up the bead without having to go up to 40-50 ft^3/hr. to get full cleaning. Noticed one of the coupons in the video seemed to have a sheared edge (looks torn/grooved by saw teeth and not filed/sanded?) & that may contribute to the floating spots left on the bead?

I can help buy noticing your back cap sits very proud of the torch head. Maybe the o-ring in the back cap wasn't sealing properly? Also, I know the clear cups are good for arc shots and for "lightning up the path" as you say, but I kind of hate them. I loved "fancy" cups, gas lenses, and all, when I was beginning. Now I run pretty much everything on standard consumables, except for stainless intrincate work like manifolds and such, where I love a jazzy #10.

AWESOME!

Good video. I've noticed similar results. I've also noticed that the flow checked at the nozzle is less than the meter shows at the tank, sometimes as much as 7 or 8 cfh. I've double checked for leaks. So has to be losing flow going through the hose and fittings and/or differences in the flow meters.

Obviously, flow rate makes a difference....but I would say that the outside corner splitting the flow is why that particular joint requires a higher flow rate. Do you carry/offer the flow rate testers by chance?

Tungsten stick out plays a big part on open corners. You had too much stickout for me. Lower the stickout and you’ll be able to run it with the same results at 15-20cfh

I tried cheap and expensive ball flow meters, but found out they are really not very accurate at all when testing flow on end of the tig torch with the test tube. Only one close to the setting on tank and torch end was flow meter supplied with Primeweld 225. On the rest I need add at least 7 CFH or more to get flow I need on the torch .

I always run my cfh around 30 for pretty much everything

Peashooter FTW! I don’t even bother looking on the flow meter

Jody, I love your work! At 3:56, you said that your 30 SCFH "probably wasn't really 30 SCFH." Can we infer that the next day, your friend's Pea Shooter registered a lower figure?

Do u suggest this would be similar result for aluminium spool gun too?

Jody, do you know/recommend any apps to help with welding? Such as type of metal, process, settings, gases? I have the books, but sure would save time to have a machine for hobbyist that you just input, and it sets it. Ofcourse, you videos are excellent too! LOL...

I need that pee shooter, where can i buy, or how to make. Been looking for a way to verify flowrate at the torch, seems like my flow is down.

At low argon flow, could it just be ambient oxygen contaminating the puddle?

mystery....

I see the issue. At 15 you aren’t at 15cfh, you were still at 12.5. Most are set to the bottom of the float ball. Not the middle of it.

Why are you using a #7 cup on 1/8" Aluminum. How bout trying a #5 standard next time.

I would like to have seen the other side of the experiment. Keep the argon flow at 15 cfm and keep the 90 degree outside corner and adjust the cup size (& type even better). I percieve the normal 15 cfm gas to be exit the torch and hit the 90 deg angle so the gas rushes away at 45 degrees faster than on the flat surface where I guess the gas hits at approx 180 degrees and bounces out & up, keeping a ball of gas turbulant around the weld pool. I suspect your increasing the gas flow rate is simply forcing a thicker stream of gas to form as it rushes away at 45 degrees from the corner. So I think your same 15 cfm and a larger cup size will allow a wider gas area immediately in front of the nozel and hence a slower escape of gas down the 45 degree sides of the joint thereby making the effective gas thickness & coverage area greater. Ie producing the same gas coverage over the weld pool as you got by increasing the gas flow rate but with a larger cup wasting less gas?