Kinda wish ik this yesterday 😂, and it makes sense because now that I negotiated OTD I can't really negotiate the bogus dealer fees. I got an offer $11.6k for a 2012 CR-V EX w/ 100k miles. Had a lot of recon done on it so I think the dealership got it for really cheap, and because I talked OTD I don't know how much better a deal I could get :/

I would have to disagree. It doesn't matter what they label a certain category. It's all included in what I'm paying, especially if paying cash. As long as I pay the total price I've asked for, I don't care. I bought several cars with the same strategy and it is time efficient because the deal either works or it doesn't, plain and simple.

The out the door price puts the dealer on the spot as you can go to multiple dealers and see if they can beat this price. Works best when you know exactly what new car your interested in with the options you want.

I have always looked at the car. Test drive it. Then say one simple thing. Whats the best you can do all in? If i like the price i buy it. If not i walk out the door. I dont do the whole back and forth, got to ask a manager crap.

It’s not that complicated, you walk in the dealer and make them a fair offer for out the door and if they can’t meet you on it then walk out and I guarantee you in a few days they’ll call you back and say they got it worked out.

I got nothing from this! So what do I negotiate? The taxes? The fees? You were so all over the place, I lost track

I would never buy a car from you with this advice.

This is why the car buying experience is such BS. Getting the OTD price should not be difficult. There should be one grand total number with itemized costs. Good luck getting that early in the negotiations. Dealerships are crooks.

Yes i am an out the door price guy in the early days. Knowledge is power and i got schooled by paying too much, just wish someone had clued me in. Spot on Manny, thanks

Assuming no trade, cash deal...Phase 1 is to ID the specific car you want; Phase 2 is to understand ALL of the itemized pricing details - in writing; Phase 3 is to verify that the dealer has applied ALL applicable mfg incentives; Phase 4 is to negotiate OTD price. Phase 5 is to drive home happy! There is NO SUBSTITUTE for understanding EVERY COMPONENT of the deal! Successful use of OTD pricing is really an advanced purchasing technique for experienced buyers WHO KNOW HOW TO SHOP & CAN WALK AWAY. IMO it is not for newbie trade in buyers who need to finance sub prime.

I knew from the very beginning of this video that this guy was a car salesman. While it may be he is no longer a salesman, this video is definitely made so that his friends in the car business have a better chance to take over the sale's process in the future. Keep trying there guy, it ain't working on most people.

The more I watch the different explanations on negotiating a vehicle, the more confused I get. And I've watched plenty the last 6 months. I refuse to buy from Carmax or Carvana, etc. but still haven't figured out what is a fair price to offer for a new SUV.

I just bought a 2023 Kia Forte GT and when I got the out the door included tax title and there was fees on there but I had them take it off. The asking price was $27,300 I got it down to $25,294. And that's including tax title I even had them to take the doc fee from the price of the car

i dont get it... why would it matter if they're charging a bit more for one thing but I am still getting the OTD price that I'm looking for?

That’s not right because O T D price includes everything. Try again 👍🏽

Complete BS. Get the out the door price with a break down BEFORE you even start negotiating. You can always haggle the fees in the OTD price instead of getting surprised by fees you didn't see coming at the very end when you thought the deal was almost done - and if you're financing, you'll save getting dinged with a credit inquiry that you will not use if the dealer wont budge. Alot of dealers will "check" your financing options early into negotiations. Sometimes this means they will shotgun your info to multiple finance companies - leaving you with 5 or 6 inquiries in a single "check". Ask around a bit. I guarantee you'll find someone fairly quickly who has been burned by last minute fees and credit shot gunning. Dealers figure its too late in the game, and you won't back out once the financing is settled. I won't even give a dealer my last name until we have settled on a finalized OTD price. This advice is utter nonsense.

If I buy a car out of state, am I supposed to pay sales tax or do I only pay taxes when I register the car in my state?

Lol this is funny, I've done out the door price on a BMW, a Toyota and a Mazda. Out the door price includes everything, taxes and paperwork. No Markups and or add-ons. Most say no at Firs then their all calling me a few days later trying to get me to buy their car.

I want to buy my first new car on my own. I make $1800 to $2000 a month and have saved up $16,000 I’m terribly terrified to actually go into a dealership due to my credit score being so low 570 😳 I’ve paid off two cars on my own before but both were under my sisters name. Due to the fact that I had a hard time getting approved and she got approved and got better options on cars. I don’t know where to start the buying process. Any tips/advise? Would be highly appreciated 🤓

If you could get a better price going through the details then the OTD price you got provided was just the salesman ripping you off knowing you could have got a better deal.

OTD price by definition is the final number you write on the check. If a dealer tries to make it anything else, I walk because they’re playing games. Of course you should look at all the details in the sales contract to identify any unreasonable charges. Any bogus charges are always still negotiable if you haven’t signed the damn contract yet. Red flag charges are a sign of an unethical dealer and just make me want to walk regardless of the price they are offering. Go find a dealer that’s ethical. Unfortunately they are not the norm, but they do exist.

I appreciate your content. I am planning to buy a truck in December. So I am definitely using your content to help study and prepare.

Hi Manny. If I don't negotiate OTD price in the first place, then should I negotiate(?) detailed item price(e.g. doc fee) via email after we settle on the sale price of a car? As I'm planning to just bring a check to a dealership, I need to know the exact OTD before I make a long trip to the dealership.

Against getting a transparent as possible estimated cost of a car before sitting down for financing? And people are commenting on the video , like, wow, not getting a clear as possible break down of the total cost of a vehicle before spending $30-60-90 k, just makes so much sense. Please don't fall fall for this video. The out the door price isn't too much to ask for. And don't let any asshole ever convince you otherwise. It's your money, be confident and ask for the bottom line.

Dude I make it clear that I want the taxes,license, etc. And I also demand exact figures.

Three combat tours were easier than buying a car! Everyone and their brother has a different approach to an Out The Door Price. Check invoice, ignore invoice, only pay $75.00 doc fee, add Holdback, add incentives, eliminate Add On items, don't say you are paying cash, use internet to buy, don't use internet to buy etc. All the ex-salesman advise a different approach! Here in Costa Rica, everyone in the country pays the same price for a particular vehicle, all taxes and fees included!

Like a few others here, I disagree. The dealer will tell you what they want to sell you the vehicle for along with the tax, title, and licensing plus all the other fees they are going to try and tack on. Hopefully, the customer will have a good idea of the actual cash value of the vehicle along with the tax, title, and licensing they would pay so they can identify what the dealer is going to try and charge them with those fees that clearly violate FTC Section 463. With the "out-the-door" price breakdown from them, you can point out to them the things they are in violation of with FTC Section 463 such as: 1) the "listing" price they now want you to pay is different than the advertised price which is a "bait and switch pricing scheme", 2) the "mandatory dealership add-ons" are NOT mandatory after all, and 3) all the "junk fees" that they attempt to tack on. They can either honor the advertised price, not make you pay for the "mandatory" dealership add-ons, and remove all of the "junk fees" to give you a fair deal, or you can find a new dealership. Regardless of what you choose, I would also report their violations to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB), the Better Business Bureau (BBB), and the states Attorney General. Dealerships play way too many games... On another note, if they do all of this and you still buy the car, be sure that you are ready for the "Yo-Yo Scam" where you will go through the process of buying the car using their financial partner (a big one is TD Auto Financing) that will approve you and in about 10-14 days or so they will send you a denial/change of conditions letter. (TD Auto Finance seems to have a habit of approving and then later denying/changing the numbers which is what the dealership wants so they can get you to pay a higher price now that you have had the vehicle a few weeks and want it more). If the dealership contacts you to bring the vehicle back or come in to sign a new financial contract (with the higher prices) and it has been more than 10 working days of your signing the first contract, then I would highly suggest hiring yourself a Consumer Protection Lawyer and DO NOT sign a new deal at least until after you talk to your Consumer Protection Lawyer. Don't worry about a retainer for the lawyer as these cases have the lawyers being paid by the dealership after they win the case against them if the lawyer takes your case. It is highly likely that the dealership is in hot water for violating Truth in Lending laws even if the finance company they chose is the one that changed the financial agreement on you.

I Always ask for a itemized OTD price and compare with other dealers and negotiate each item/add on on the OTD price

You did not tell what should be asked and how. You made it more confused.

OTD price is what's getting financed or cash price. All that other stuff doesn't matter. Just a bunch of fluff and nonsense with that other stuff.

Manny, I swear every video I've watched, you're on point. Some people may not like when you're shooting the truth to them, but you're giving us what's real, for free. I just wanted to say that I appreciate all your time that you take to produce these amazing videos. Thank you! Now, sorry in advance for my lengthly comment below. :) When I heard 'out the price' maaany years ago, it sounded 'simple'. I thought 'hey, that's easy!' Not for sales. Believe me when I write that you don't wanna make things difficult for the dealer staff. Now, I've never been in sales (although I've been told many times that I should, lol), but I've bought enough stuff..cars, etc. etc., with the attitude from the get-go that all these folks're slime, they're all out here to drain my wallet and I would treat them as such. Now, lol, with some, that's true. They'll drain your wallet if you let them. You can walk...at anytime. Anyhow, having that attitude ain't good for ya. You can do your research, look at KBB or the like for the 'great, good, fair' price of your specific vehicle. Then, approach the battlegroud with good knowledge of what you want and what is a 'great, good or fair' price with a positive attitude. Trust me when I say, I was shocked many years ago when I met an ex-finance officer who started working with me for the State of CA. I started picking his brain about all the myths/reality involved in selling cars. I couldn't believe it when he said that he and his staff couldn't stand it when people would come in with an attitude from the start (i used to do that). He said that if he and his team decided to deal with that person and their negative attitude, that they were gonna make sure they made maximum profit from them. Sometimes, he said, the staff would not even negotiate, with the intent of hoping that person did walk. This F/O told me that it was the people that came in with the attitude along the lines of.."Look, you guys sell cars daily, I buy cars every know and then. I'll respect that this is the way you guys make your living but, I've got a family as well. I'm not gonna try to take you for all you've got, that ain't gonna happen. However, I've done enough research to know what my bottom line is, as well." ......obviously, I never forgot that. And, I'll be damned, that when I changed my attitude on my next purchase and ran those comments by the staff, we struck a deal. And, after the process was done that F/O of the dealership told me that I did good, that believe it or not, when the sales person went and shared my opening statement with the manager, they lowered their guard and their greed to make a deal with me. He told me that in all his career, did any customer state that they actually gave a shit about the management/sales people making a living.

The Dealer doesn't always control the game. Atleast, that's how it should work. If you're mistreating your customers, they won't return anytime soon. Fortunately, dealers are a dime a dozen, so If I email 20 dealers in a 200 mile radius and ask them for their best deal, it's easy to see the crooked ones. I kick those to the curb and deal with the fair Dealers. There are a few. Not many, but that's why i compare on paper before meeting the ones I believe made fair offers.. Also, the OTD method can work but you listed it before TTL which can be about 3K on a 35K vehicle. The same for rebates, discounts, and incentives. I want the complete OTD price from all the dealerships so I could compare and eliminate the unscrupulous dealers. What good is an OTD quote if it doesn't include everything? That's why it's called that, it's what you are paying when you're out the door! Just make sure you're checking every add on so, it's a fair comparison. If all else fails, just ask for invoice cost. Some will take it if there's enough back end profit.

Saw a Shelby GT500 in a ugly lime green that was $79k with an additional $25k dealer mark up when I was looking at a pickup yesterday. Psychologically it blew the deal on the pickup for them. It turned me off from doing business with them.

Spoken like a true salesman, nothing you said helps the buyer just the dealership.

I actually need the OTD Price because I'd be applying for a loan through a Credit Union And They need to know exactly how much I need.

Kbb prices don't include tax and title?

don't forget the incentives, rebate and holdback.

Another great video. Unfortunately I didn’t see this one before I purchased my car yesterday. Do you offer a service where you can evaluate my sticker price and evaluate what was paid. I would love to get a clear picture of where I went wrong. I feel like the dealer stole my rebate. 😡 But still happy with my truck 😀

Thank you for producing concise and helpful content for car buyers! I'm in the market for a used Toyota Tacoma and have binged watched your tip videos over the past few days. I followed your tips on email negotiation and used price research and made an offer at $34.8k for a CPO 2020 Tacoma with 15k mi (sticker is $38.9, only been on the lot for 21 days). Dealer called me back and said best he could do was $37.9 and wouldn't budge. I walked... remembering that you said "they're only going to sell it for what they're comfortable with", and knowing that it's only been on the lot less than 1 month. Hopefully it will still be there next month and they'll come lower on price.

you gotta get in the door to get the out the door #, now with the shortage on semiconductors, giving all dealership low inventory, most pple want otd # without going in the dealership, most dealership wont give it to you, no dealership wants to give any one the lowest price with low inventory..if you aint going to give them msrp plus taxes, fees and add on...then you just wont get a car, most of the time

This shouldn't be complicated. OTD is price of the vehicle, sales tax, state registration fees, doc fee. Everything else is fluff. Take OTD offer, subtract state reg fees and doc fee, then divide by tax rate. That's what your selling the car for.

I don’t really understand your theory... Are you saying that we shouldn’t ask for an otd number because we will make the life of the sales manager more difficult?? Who cares how they figure it out... all the customer cares about is that they are calculating the right tax percentage and that the numbers are good enough for them.

Trying to negotiate a new Chevy, The manufacturer website says $1689 for a military discount. Dealer claims it’s already in their discount for everyone so there not taking anymore off but they still want to verify my military through idme. Are they pulling a fast one to keep my discount?

sounds like a salesman to me!

I let the dealer add up all the numbers and then tell them I will pay 75% of that or I am OUT THE DOOR !!!

This doesn't make any sense.

Ive watched like 10 video straight, i am not able to finance and negotiate price because i am now two years in a bankruptcy..i dont have job stability i just started a new job. So my only option is to buy cash so i really dont have a choice to negotiate out of door price. Every video i have found says save it till the end and be open to financing..but i dont have that option in my circumstance. How do you negotiate the price when u cant finance?

That guy should have just insisted that the definition of "out the door" includes taxes. If not, he should have walked. You don't get the best price without assertiveness. Everybody knows what out-the-door price means. I don't ask for out-the-door price. I tell them what I am willing to pay out-the-door, but I exclude the taxes. It's either done, or it isn't; no time wasted.

Not sure what you are trying to say, find the dealers OTD price and work from there.

People like things simple , that’s why they want the - “ bottom line “ doesn’t mean it’s the best system it just is what it is ... Think about students grades ; 5 options . Think about school rankings ; 5 options . Grades for restaurants; 5 options . Stars on Amazon for any product ; 5 options.... I don’t do OTD negotiations, but I do fight for every penny from 1_ the initial discount because I’m here today and I’m not wasting you time over the phone or email ( this is usually based on a percentage I feel the vehicle calls for compared to it’s “ comps “ and what I’ve been able to get around town ) 2 - the fee for in house title agency ( complete B.S. , why do they charge 200$ for a tag when the DMV charges 35$ ... to make profit! ) 3- a “net discount “ on the overpriced doc fee. ( I do paperwork for an hour and I pay you to do it ... No. I don’t think so. You’re going to find a way to help me out here with that. ) 4 - the tank will be full , the “ we owe “ will have “ full detail with wax and polish “ written on it. Period . The first time I get it serviced at the dealer it will be washed and waxed at their cost . PERIOD. Well here’s the way I think about my time and the work that goes into a legit offer and negotiation for a vehicle. If I make 200 $ a day based on my salary, how much time can I spend to try and save another 700 - 1000 ? A LONG TIME. My hourly rate ain’t that great ! Heck if another hour saves me 100$ that’s 2 meals at Outback Steakhouse! I’ve had dealers ask/tell me, “ how long do you want to fight for the 500$ that we’re apart cause we’re not budging and he’s sure there isn’t a dealer in town that will honor that deal. “ A few days later they always call back and we come a whole lot closer to my #. If it takes another day ( during the summer when I am off work anyways ) then that’s what it is... if they don’t call back after I’ve visited and test drove the vehicle and gone through the first round of negotiations then it’s their loss. I’m not an easy customer but that’s ok. I protect my families finances and they protect their business finances... they always win otherwise they wouldn’t sell me the car but there’s no way I’m going to make it quick and easy on them. Earning my $ is going to be work.

I just got more confused 😐

Hello sir, Would appreciate your advice. Looking at a 2020 challenger. New. Base price is around 38k, but with the add ons it goes up to 54k. What or how much do you believe I can negotiate off of that? Or what would you consider a fair and reasonable offer the dealership would accept? Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Hey Manny I love your videos :) Question I just got my offer accepted it is about 2 hrs away and I want to make sure the deal is in writing how do I proceed what do I ask them for? I asked for a Buyers order but they werent willing to give that?

The main reason why I've walked out of dealerships, scumbag salesmen. Never give your phone number or real name until you're signing the contract.

You may be the only one who is not clear on this concept

Actually, the outdoor price should include tax license and fees not just out the door price of MSRP …

I agree with you on that 100% !!!

Wouldn’t there be software that allows salespeople to punch in a number and all the calculations would be automatic. Tax, doc, fee etc?

This video was very convoluted and I don’t think you even know what you were trying to say lol. sorry OTD is extremely important because that’s literally what you’re paying to the penny.. this is coming from a sales person at Acura.

Sorry I would go with your way.

This is weak. Obviously, one gets the full offer with the OTD. Anything else is not the OTD.

With 99.9% of dealers they understand exactly what OTD pricing..You give or they ask your zip..

Figure it out.😆

This paints a pretty poor picture of the dealership’s ability to do what should be their job.

I am a bit confused. To me the price that is agreed to at the end of any negotiation, irregardless of approach, is the OTD price. What is wrong with asking the dealership to do this prior to my even showing up? They would have my address to properly assess taxes due. As you and others have said over and over, this is my power..... If a dealer doesn't want to take the time to figure out the best price they can give me, then I walk away. Figuratively or literally I appreciate that I have to ask many dealerships in order to compare, and then make sure its apples to apples, but most of us really just want to hear the final price. I am convinced that Carmax and Carvana have seen success because it is a "no BS" approach that many seem willing to pay a little more money for. Go figure, I guess the OTD price asking is really us asking dealerships to be more like Carmax and Carvana

It’s 2024 and only 481 likes?

Dude, you'e a SALESMAN! Not going to sit there and play the wear them down game. OTD, or no deal! Even if I could save more money(which I highly doubt) by going back and forth, not me.Get me in and get me out.

wow....how wrong you are. out the door has all the fees in them except government fees that have to be in there (i.e. sales tax, doc fee) but as a customer I know those items before i set foot into the dealership. your explanations are way wrong in just that you as a consumer has to be informed before they walk in. i also put time frame on how long i will be on the property. now at my age and at this point i have excellent credit and i'm not at the mercy of the dealership and if it's not a good deal, i walk. dealership and i have to both get a decent deal. you said many things that are included in the out the door price.......i think your wording is what's wrong.

Kind of boring. I couldn’t finish it

Terrible advice, but I appreciate the presentation

I would nevr buy a car from u.

I always have the right to walk away.

After 2 years. There are only 279 likes. You know this video is completely nonsense.

This is a bad video. You ALWAYS negotiate the "Out The Door Price." Dealerships are required to give you the Out the Door Price along with a line by line breakdown of each item (tax, title, doc fee, msrp, etc). This way you have a clear understanding of what you're paying for. I would never buy a car, or a TV, from you my friend.

This guy makes no sense. The bottom line is the bottom line. Look at the source he is a salesman.

You either have no clue what you’re talking about or you are woefully misguiding ur audience. Asking for OTD price is a model that has been exercised since the beginning of car sales. I could see how this practice would disgruntle a car salesman but it’s always been beneficial to consumers.

This is pure BS!!!!!!

I just wasted 8 min listening to this. NEXT

Wow this is actual advice 😂🤣