By far the most intelligent comment on this page!

He’s demonstrating how to mount cabinets on the ceiling that violently swing side to side.

GOA- the word ceiling never comes out of his mouth.

@@GOAP68 OMG, I'm an idiot. I just recognized the humor in this.

Years ago I had to install about 50 cabinets in a commercial building for big real estate company. I actually cut and doubled up a bunch of wood I took from pallets they had in a storage room to back up the metal studs just like in the video.

@@BassDoctor63 , that’s about all you can do once the drywall goes up. But it’s much more expensive and labor intensive, neither is preferable. When we built we would add extra backing in areas like dining rooms and kitchens because they have the most chances of needing more decor added later or equipment. The owners appreciate it when they don’t have to go through tearing out walls to hang a new painting or shelves. Nowadays it seems like thinking about your clients first is a thing of the past. Sadly.

All your weight of the cabinet is not hanging from one screw though. And also, your demo is a little nuts. We hang cabinets on walls not ceilings. I agree blocking is def the way to go but many people hang cabinets from metal studs no problem

Nah, this guy is full of it. If you use modified truss head screws, you can hang directly onto the steel studs. I've hung thousands of cabinets in commercial apartments and never had a single issue. Wood screws don't have a tight enough thread pitch to hold on steel, but a modified truss head with a self tap point does.

You screw the blocking inside the studs so when you add the cabinets on them they pull tight towards the drywall making a solid hold. If you just screw to the metal studs they will eventually work loose. Cabinets are used daily holding a lot of weight and that is what causes them to come loose. This other commenter doesn’t know what he’s talking about. I’ve had to go in plenty of times after guys like that to fix their poor work later. He never knew it was falling off probably because the owners didn’t want them back on the job after screwing it up the first time. If you 12 gauge studs they’re stronger but they need self tappers to screw into them making them harder to work with. Metal studs are good for strength after the sheet rock goes up, but they can be pretty flimsy on their own.

Most of the really good installers will install backing like you described, or a combination of both. Thanks for the comment!

Yes, that would work as long as you use screws that are equal to or stronger the #8 wood screws. Heavy zip toggles are not always readily available at the local lumber yard and if you can find them you will have to buy longer screws and washers separately. I knew a guy back in the day that just globed construction adhesive on the back of the cabinet before he hung it. Needless to say he didn't work for me. Great comment, Thanks!

Wood works great if you have evolved out of the stone age.

@@MAGAMAN not so good in a fire or flood though.

@@dilligaf2386 The walls might hold up in a flood but nothing else will. Fire is a good point though.

1) 1 1/4" zinc coated Square head wood screw 2 & 4) I use between 2" to 2 3/4" #8 Zinc coated wood screws to hank the cabinets through both the stud and the wood at the top. Length depends on the thickness of the cabinet hang rail. You want to bite 1-1 1/2" into the stud. 3/4" Cabinet back & Rail + 1/2" Drywall + 1 1/4" bite into stud = 2 1/2" screw. 3) the bottom screw is primarily used to plum the cabinet and has far less sheering force on it since the cabinet is pushing down on it more than pulling out. Backing up the bottom is not needed if you back up the top. Hope this answers your question.

Great advise 👍👍

20 gauge standard interior drywall studs

Yes, That is Ideal. This is an alternative when they are not installed by the contractor and you have to proceed, or you are working on a DIY consumer job and they forgot to do it.

Yes, you only need backing for upper cabinets and if you are going into metal studs for base and tall cabinets it is better to use drywall or sheet metal screws. Just make sure they are # 8.

@@cabinettalk8399 Thanks.

Great advice

I would like wood but an alternative would be better and faster

Yes I would run them through the studs if that is your only option. I would never hang cabinets on drywall alone.

good luck with that in commercial construction.

I wish this was even the case in the house we bought. There’s freakin metal (I call them tin foil) studs throughout except exterior walls. So we’re attempting to hang cabinets in our laundry room and there is luckily a 2x4 across like this but it’s 24” down the wall and wouldn’t align with the “top” of a cabinet. So I’m just hoping that it’s going to be enough to hold them up. We will reinforce other areas too but the only true hold will be into that 2x4.

Can you say micro-aggression? I don't think it's the "woke world" that's performing hack jobs, it's typically slumlords or sleaze-ball contractors 😉

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

have fun when you want to renovate.