Gonna have to do this as well!

The lighting seems better! Haha

Check out my transmission install video in the “Dually” playlist!

Check out my Bd tap shifter video in the “Dually” playlist

@@LeftLaneDiesels Thank you!

Part of the issue with the charging/power system is not large enough gauge wire. That’s why you see I added 2 grounds and a power off the alternator. What is really lacking is higher amperage from the alternator at lower rpms. This takes many miles to see problems. But this is why FICMs power board fails. So if you are going to upgrade your alternator it’s best to go all out and get a 180+ alternator and upgrade your wiring. In this video I barely scratched the surface, ideally you would upgrade to larger factory power and ground cables. 1/0 factory upgrade to 2/0, especially the power wire that connects both batteries and feeds the starter, this would also require these additional grounds and upgrading factory grounds to 2/0.

The best one to go with is a denso large case hairpin style unit. It will do well over twice the idle output of this upgrade alternator in the video when hot, and 380+ amps continuously if/when needed. 12 large diodes in an actual finned heatsink for robust output while retaining long term reliability. Less mechanical input power to generate electrical power, runs cooler, more power and MUCH more reliable then these reworked 6g alternators that make tremendous heat, and cause rectifier and regulator failures. This upgrade will fail sooner than later likely, and when it does, I'll send Cody one of mine to test. I've built my own for both my 7.3 and 6.0, my scion TC and many others for car audio. As a previous certified Ford diesel tech, these 3g and 6g alternators have always been problematic, and it's because of its base design. Small weak 8 diode rectifiers and s wind stators that run hot, and don't make much power. When modded to make more power in a "delta configuration" they make tons more heat, sacrificing reliability. Ask how I know. That's how I got into building these for myself and others. Here's a video from my page showing what's inside, and why they work better. A small case hairpin would still run circles around this 6g large case upgrade unit. Do they work for the average user that doesn't know any better? Absolutely. When you know and experience a true upgrade, you'll understand why I took the time to write out this comment in such detail. Have a look for yourself. If you're handy, you can EASILY build one yourself. Around $350 in parts, and a few hours of build time, and your set for 10+ years of stout current that'll hold voltage no matter what you throw at it, even at idle. Not knocking the upgrade Cody! It'll do for now, when your ready for the end all when this one fails, holler and I'll send ya one! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJiibJl2xtquqoE.htmlsi=jSJ05O_yDGBFb-Xj

To answer your question about the largest you can go without upgrading wires... I wouldn't go above 180A, in which a small case hairpin will still be a substantial upgrade from this ancient 6g unit. Around 130 amps at idle, and 160-180 max output. For 90+% of average vehicles that don't require tremendous output for ultra heavy electrical draws, a small case is a great upgrade. More reliable, more efficient, cleaner output, less heat, more power. There's really no downside other than purchase price and install. When it's finally failed, they are easily rebuildable and upgradable. Sorry for not answering the question in the first three paragraphs.. 😂

No it’s in the BD tap shifter. Check out that video in the “Dually” playlist!

@@LeftLaneDiesels will do man love your content. Picked up an 07 with 19,400 miles last summer I'm taking lots of notes going through all your stuff