Glad to help

My pleasure!

People insist it's a "thing" despite being measurably inferior in every way except for the fact you can't see the fasteners. I'd hate to see how that performed in a typhoon/hurrican situation where the whole board is just hanging from a top nail at the thinnest part of the board... Honestly, do it the way shown here, and if you get your nail lines all neat and lined up that becomes a feature and a sign of good craftsmanship in it's own right.

Nice one! Hope it turns out well for you boyzee 🔨

No problem 👍

Thanks for watching!

Dogs next door, nightmare with the noise. Not for me in the slightest.

Thats funny, I would love to find that clip!!!!

🤣Things on those shows usually only have to look good for a day or two while they film. Guess they didn't film fast enough in that case! But yeah, pretty obvious that will happen. I found a comment here on KZfaq where someone complained their weatherboards were all curling. Later mentioned they nailed the top for "hidden fasteners"... 🤦‍♂

Never mind the cladding the fact you are so proficient at youtube comments at over 100 is awesome!

Yup - I was always taught heart side out. I've been doing it that way for thirty odd years and it works just fine.

Can't do that on featheredge though, it's got a front and back. Looks wrong if you spun it around.

@@BillyMustang101 yes thats true one side has a 90' cut the other is beveled. I've only ever installed straight edge and wainey cladding, always heart on the outside.

Click like & it will change 👍

Birds and insects are in a massive state of decline and are facing extinction, we are also one of the most nature depleted countries in the world, please consider putting some boxes up on the wall after it's been rendered to replace any nesting space lost.

@@dougthebuilder1. Don't worry, our eldest daughter is an ecologist so wouldn't let us get away with not replacing nesting areas.

@@dougthebuilder1 I honestly don't get the desire to keep insects, birds and creatures off all kinds out. Live with them, much better in my opinion.

@@Raysnature You wouldn't be saying that if you were in my house at the moment, where a family of mice have died on the concrete below the floor! Bloody hell, that's a smell that lingers. Had to make a 1m2 hole in my wall to get access to the area behind the fancy hidden cistern in order to find a spot to drill through the floor (lifting the floor would be significantly more expense) and hoover up the corpses (the masasive gap around the waste pipes in the downstairs bathroom - bloody plumbers - was letting in the corpse smelling air as well as giving the mice free reign to come and go, albeit limited to that small area). Anyway, I agree with the sentiment, as long as they remain living!

That nail was only used for the window trims, for the actual featheredge cladding I used a framing nailer with 63mm stainless steel nails, for waney edge cladding I would adopt the same fixing routine as the featheredge, 18g pins would not hold the cladding, hope that helps

That's about what the "pro" builders used on my house in Japan. A frickin pin, minimal rust protection, smooth and about 30mm long. After a couple of years they are rusting and working out of their own accord. Fortunately it's tongue and groove siding so it kind of holds itself together... I did overlapped weatherboard on my self-built shed and used 65mm stainless screw-shank nails with a decent head.

As Eric morecamb would say "its just the way I walk"

Thats a really good tip especially if you plan to satin the cladding, top of the class for you Sexton

Yes, follow the same rational😊

I’m not a professional but as I understand - the idea between using a single fixing as opposed to multiple is to allow the boards to expand and contract without splitting, the idea being if you’ve got two fixings very close together it doesn’t allow the boards to expand/contract naturally and risks splitting them.

Great point!

It depends on the width of the cladding for 150mm you should allow 25mm to 35mm for 175mm allow 35mm to 45mm and 200mm allow similar to the 175mm board, featheredge cladding can vary in section thickness from 1 piece to another and the thin edges can sometimes run to nothing so find a bad bit and use that as the guide for overlap, new video coming soon

@@ukconstruction Thanks for the reply Robin, will use your giuidelines

Mrgeorge118 spot on. Although if the screws had a long enough unthreaded shank, surely you could get away with not pre-drilling?

@mrgeorge118 Thanks. I never considered the cost. I’d done a bit of Googling and people were saying that screws were brittle so would snap if the wood moved sideways (due to temp or moisture etc) whereas nails would just bend and stay fixed. ‘“Shear strength” I think it’s called?

Bang a nail in first,if the timber splits,then you should of used a screw!

Dowels. What could go wrong?

Hi Paul, I have only done that a couple of times, its just a bit heavier and more expensive but its ok if you have a decent width board!!!

@@ukconstruction thanks Robin

Yes I use stainless steel screws and bore holes too

Some cladding can take a brad nail as they rely on a tounge and groove etc also, but this type of cladding or featheredge must be nailed with a proper nail

Yes they would be good Richard

@@ukconstruction Thanks Robin 👍

Next time use no nails, then you get to come back and use sticks like S*&%. eventually they will agree on nails lol.

You have to educate them as to why you did it, that's all.

@@olafbigandglad you always know when you educate them they go and google it

@@markmarlow Not in my experience, but then, I've been doing this for 40 years and people tend to listen to me.

@@olafbigandglad 👍