Bad ass! This is why Tim is the fuckin best there is! Love jerry but no one pays attention to detail and quality like Tim does..

Tim and his team are true artisans

small details like that tube welded in at an angle make the finished job look so much better. 1st its for safety and structural integrity of course! but not having a sharp hole just drilled in the side makes it look amazing! Clean idea also. On my street car, I'm swapping to 4 wheel manual brakes. I never thought of actually using the line lock as the dist block instead of trying to reuse the OEM block under the master cyl. I bet that brace and gusset on the end of the M/C mean everything on a sheet metal firewall.

Well I looking order a system 20 lb and noticed it had flexible lines. Thank You for keeping us safer. Made my day! Thank You!

You should show a couple of your Flaring and Tube Bending tools that your shop uses to makes this type of work possible..... Hiding those lines and making clean bends and flares are not easy at this level..... Nice work Tim....

the agent nozzles should always be on the middle side of the t fitting perpendicular to the downstream flow of the agent. your current setup is going to push more agent out of the first t, rather than pressurizing the line first with equal flow from all nozzles. you only have 20 lbs of agent at roughly 200 psi which isnt much, especially if your moving and the airflow blows a good amount out most of the engine compartment. also make sure the agent cylinders are designed to be layed on their sides. they have a stem that runs through the center of them. if its not a curved stem that is pointed down upoon instalation, you will not even get half of the agent out of the bottle before you run out of the nitrogen agent propellant.

safety first! I agree, death by fire would suck.

Man that is slick. I like that. Very clean professional installation. The only thing I don't like is the fire nozzles mounted to the fuel cell tube. In a front end collision with another car or the wall I have seen the whole front section of the car knocked off. If there is an engine fire at that time your fancy fire system is useless. Has to be a better way

Same exact fire system I install in every asphalt abd dirt oval track car I build new or buy already built.

Great videos and awesome workmanship Tim. I can't believe I haven't stumbled across these until now. Any tips on running rigid brake lines through the chassis tubing? I'm assuming the fittings are not installed at the time they are pushed through. Do you push them through towards the one with the angled conduit so it bends slightly as it exits the chassis tube? Then do you leave the rigid lines in place during painting? I've pulled electrical wiring through the chassis by inserting mechanics wire inside of the tubing during fabrication then after paint pull the electrical wiring through with the mechanics wire already in place but I never even thought about rigid lines through the chassis but would like to try it. Any tips would be great. Thanks. Mike

Awesome video, very informative!

Tim .... How is that brake line going to flex ever so slowly 😂. ..

I thought mixing aluminum fittings and stainless lines was not acceptable. Are you using them on the fire suppression system because it’s lower psi or because they’re anodized?

Tim and Team, do you have a test procedure to validate the safe operation of the fire suppression lines? With all those bends and multiple fittings, I can see more opportunity for a leak or a pinched line. Awesome video set, I'm enjoying them thoroughly 😊

Would have liked to see you put those four link mounts in.

hi, would not the openings in the chassis tubing for the brake lines let moisture into the tubing and cause corrosion of the untreated chassis.? how is this countered or is it insignificant? Here in Australia it is a big problem for unsealed tubes.

How do you get the hard line thru the chassis?

any tips for fishing the brake line through the chassis rail once you got the conduits in place?