Dude STOP. While I understand the decisions that led you down the PSU fan modifications, what you just created is potentially lethal if anything goes wrong. By "trimming down" the fan you have made the fans electronics much more exposed and that danger is compounded by the fact you have attached the remaining parts of the fan to the PSU's mains containing PCB. While the glue sure won't conduct, if something comes loose and shorts with the fan electronics, there is the potential of your low voltage side going up to mains voltages. While somewhat unlikely, it is not impossible for you to then receive a deadly shock trough your display for example. Not to drop any credentials here but as a professional electronics engineer I urge you not to perform these kind of modifications. Swapping the fan is fine if you know what you're doing but this trimming modification is dangerous. At the very least, while it does not help with the aforementioned shock hazard, please print some sort of shroud for that fan so nobody can accidentally out their fingers inside the PSU. There is a reason the PSU is enclosed on grounded metal and that reason is the desire to keep the user alive.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
That is very interesting, I had not thought about the possibility of the low voltage side being shorted to 115v. I will make extra sure that nothing comes loose. Crazy! On my pervious videos I always recommended against opening up the PSU. I will put a disclaimer on my videos from now on.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Good eye! I can't recommend anyone to do this particular power supply fan mod. ⚡️ ⚡️ ⚡️ Wow, just reviewed the footage, I'm very close to sorting the fan PCB to those components on the Power Supply's PCB. I see what you mean.
@NavinF2 жыл бұрын
I also did a double take at 1:20, but on closer inspection the fan seems to be glued to the low-voltage side of the PCB. If so, this is perfectly safe and doesn’t violate creepage/clearance. Oh and if someone manages to stick their fingers through the fan, bending the blades while doing so, they deserve the pain lol
@ugetridofit2 жыл бұрын
" Not to drop any credentials here but as a professional electronics engineer " Ya ok sure you are. If you were you would know that everything in there is already exposed. If you were a engineer you would know the real problem was him removing the fan enclosure which will cause the fan to move less air than the one he replaced.
@infinitewars6373 Жыл бұрын
I wouldnt give a damn if he gets a electric shock because i had it trough multiple times and death is very rare…. But one thing i can tell you if that fan gets shorted with mains its easy for that printer to go on fire and you imagine what can happen next….. improving ventilation in psu is one thing but having this sort of hazzard inside of psu i think is a bit overboard you rather leave in stock one
@DaveDDD2 жыл бұрын
Dang dude, you’re criminally underrated for the amount of mods you’re testing out and making for the community. This is really great stuff. Keep it up!!!
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Dave!
@chadsoucek46782 жыл бұрын
“Took awhile to work out the bug” says that while pulling ladybugs off print bed xD
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Bugs.gcode
@MoeReefs2 жыл бұрын
I googled "I am really smart and can figure it out by myself" but didnt find what I was looking for. lmao
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Haha well, look up Rolohaun on YT, he's a Klipper God.
@adammills40992 жыл бұрын
That whole PSU fan mod is a no-go my friend, just order a fan that fits.
@MichaelWatersJ2 жыл бұрын
Your videos are like Instagram without filters and I love it.
@EV-wp1fj2 жыл бұрын
The print quality difference between both paths has nothing to do with bowden tube, but the extruder that you're using. If one extruder has a different transmission ratio than the other, and you're using the same transmission ratio for both, you're going to get a bad result with one, and the correct result with the other. Also, one is likely a better extruder than Ender's stock extruder.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
I may not have shown it on camera, but I did some test runs with 2x BMG clone extruders, 1 bowden, one DD. It still had a lot of issues with reliably switching. It takes a lot of force to clear a jam. Bowden tubes will bind above a certain force. For example, you can push yarn through a straw, but once it starts to clog/jam, the internal friction will cause it to bunch up, and make the jam worse the harder you push. The internal friction increases exponentially once the filament starts to get all squirmy - which is what happens with a lot of flexibles in bowden tubes. Eventually it stops acting like a bowden tube.
@dragnet53 Жыл бұрын
That is a fire hazard waiting to happen.
@SuperiorKnightZ2 жыл бұрын
Finally someone did it 🙏🙏
@SeanTaffert2 жыл бұрын
That, was, awesome! You really need to do a deep dive video into the new hotend and dual DD. I'm susrprised you didn't use a larger platform like the CR10 series for this mod. Great video, keep it up.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
I will in a couple weeks!
@F1fanatic212 жыл бұрын
I'm halfway through my mechanical engineering degree and I would just like to say I love how much useful information related to mechanical engineering/design you put in these videos. You're a great teacher as well, and I hope the algorithm blesses you soon, because you deserve it
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Haha, well I used to teach university courses in Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering. I have some stuff coming up on heat transfer that I think you will find interesting! 🤔 ♨️
@bradleydevoir62892 жыл бұрын
1:20-1:50 had me crying. It’s beautiful
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Its so stupid it has to work!
@3sotErik2 жыл бұрын
Safety warning @1:14 Do not take a swig of isopropyl alcohol. Take several.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
You should change your name to safety bear, because you have the best safety tips!
@olafmarzocchi61946 ай бұрын
I would be happy to see more investigation of the nylon/Nylon-CF combined prints. Now there are other printers which easily do multi-material, so it doesn't need to be done with the hacked Ender 3...
@adventureskulldraws2 жыл бұрын
really cool, cant wait to see how the nylon mates up
@BlessedDog2 жыл бұрын
Just discovered this channel and I'm hooked, keep up the good content.
@boryshacker2 жыл бұрын
If there is a will, there is a way! Well done
@MrPcfriendly2 жыл бұрын
Dayum, great video! I have a spare parts printer monstrosity I named Frankenprinter'sMonster but now ya got me thinking I need to pick up a couple of enders to merge frame & parts into a giant idex beast to name BrideofFrankenprinter'sMonster,TheEndering!! which really just rolls off the tongue. You, sir, are an inspiration
@YourLocalRaccoon2 жыл бұрын
This is absolutely ridiculous and overkill. It's perfect. Give it a name.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
It has one. I call it: "The Kevin Smith"
@YourLocalRaccoon2 жыл бұрын
@@NathanBuildsRobots That's so sweet. But no really.
@boryshacker2 жыл бұрын
Oh yeah! Will enjoy after work!
@Rolohaun2 жыл бұрын
Awesome work as always, thanks for the shoutout!
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
No problem. I probably would have just stopped at 1 material printing without your tech support. I had to do some pretty odd workarounds to get the 2 extruder on one heater thing working. A short design/build/test cycle makes it so easy to do advanced stuff. Though-Marlin has native support for the 2 extruder config I'm running, so maybe it would have been easier on Marlin?
@Rolohaun2 жыл бұрын
@@NathanBuildsRobots no marlin sucks lol
@m971202 жыл бұрын
1:56 literally wrench access lol
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
I like to wrench on my own printers.
@varunpatel19882 жыл бұрын
I’m just here for the jokes
@rsunghun2 жыл бұрын
You are inventing amazing things.
@TechieNI2 жыл бұрын
Love the content and the comedy. Especially the fans lol
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
The fans were a combination of comedy and utility - funny solutions that work. There needs to be a word for that. Utilitarian comedy?
@JRPW2 жыл бұрын
Did you run the two z axes in parallel? Interesting video! Im excited to see the duel nylon tests.
@th0m2 жыл бұрын
Since you already added an additional mcu and have extra stepper drivers now, you might as well wire your second z stepper to that board. Combined with a bed probe it will allow you to auto level the gantry with the independent z control. Lost z steps no longer an issue.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Good idea!
@mariusc21372 жыл бұрын
this wasnt really a "how to" video, was it?🤣 I do love it tho!
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Pls don't do half the stupid stuff I do 😆 Just trying to give you some ideas💡
@justinmoritz65432 жыл бұрын
incredible!
@goodvegi2 жыл бұрын
Very cleaver!
@efboiz53022 жыл бұрын
Def would like to see more videos with this hotend. Specifically some stringing test results. Seems like most 2in 1out hotends are very difficult to eliminate severe stringing.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
This one appears to have quite good stringing performance. It has a very short heatbreak - notice I said short, not thin. A thin heatbreak can be made shorter, so it has a quicker transition from hot to cold, making better retraction performance. I haven't heard anyone properly explain this, so I will make a video on the topic soon.
@JohnDStrand Жыл бұрын
wow. Always pushing the envelope(s)! Happy hacking!
@NeilLund2 жыл бұрын
I wonder how many out takes you have because you couldn’t stop laughing trying to get the joke out in a complete sentence 😂
@kazolar2 жыл бұрын
You have a 3d printer -- print a PSU enclosure to use the noctua fan without the jankiness -- this is super unsafe. You can also get low profile quiet fans -- 12v fans on par with Noctua (they're not the only brand that makes quiet fans) are easily available, and even 24v PSUs tend to use 12v fans. I've been running a 24v psu which runs 16 steppers and 4 hotends with a replaced low profile quiet fan for almost 5 years with no issues -- easy drop in, no surgery required. That part was cringeworthy.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
I couldn't find them in time. Do you have any 60mm fan recommendations for the PSU?
@Alexander_Meyer2 жыл бұрын
This is magic!
@tomaskianicka33432 жыл бұрын
First try :D:D Pretty cool project. I had no idea you can split parts of 3d printer parts to various control boards. Totally dual.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, it's one of the great things about Klipper.
@tomaskianicka33432 жыл бұрын
@@NathanBuildsRobots Just noticed the archon from Starcraft in the thumbnail :) That's a good one :)
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
@@tomaskianicka3343 POWER OVERWHELMING!!!
@christopherlawrence39972 жыл бұрын
Cool video and interesting mods. BUT, that bowden to direct drive comparison was definitely not correct. Just make sure to compare things like that properly because that comparison was misleading.
@ugetridofit2 жыл бұрын
WOW!!! I could only watch the first few minutes. This is one of those videos where the guy has NO idea what he's talking about. First the fan in the power supply. Removing the outer shell of the fan will cause it to move LESS air than what you replaced it with. It needs the ducting to work correctly. Second, your regulator. Its funny you have the data sheet right in front of you, yet you used no capacitors on the input or output of the regulator. A HUGE MISTEAKE!!! Dude learn what your doing before you tell people what to do. There are far to many sheeple out there that will just blindly follow people
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
I will admit, EE is not my strong suit. I bought an o-scope. Maybe I can plug it into the fan cables and see the voltage ripple. I butted the fan up against the PCB, so the air has nowhere to go. By removing the outer housing, it starts acting like a blower fan, moving air by centripetal acceleration, while still moving some axially. It seemed to be moving plenty of air.
@3DPrintSOS2 жыл бұрын
#RatRodMods ;) That wrench mount steals the show for me. haha Some cool ideas here man.
@gark642 жыл бұрын
Definitely worth swapping the extruder steppers for pancake steppers - a BMG extruder doesn't need the torque of that big stepper.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
yeah, I didn't have pancakes when I made the video. I just bought a5 pack so I could swap them out. I will say, the smaller steppers do get hotter, and combined with the meltable PETG mounting structure, it may just be worth using the bigger motors. Most extruders that use pancake steppers also have some form of heatsinking for the pancake to compensate for the extra heat
@gark642 жыл бұрын
I've been using a pancake stepper with a PLA direct drive for months with no issue. It gets warm, but not enough to soften the material.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
@@gark64 interesting. What vref do you use? I set mine to 0.8 and haven't had any Nektar of my petg mount. I'm a little worried about heat creep.
@gark642 жыл бұрын
@@NathanBuildsRobots mine is about 1.1v.
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Wow, that surprises me. I guess I don't really need to worry about it then!
@rax22002 жыл бұрын
That psu fan mod was... Alot considering you can print a cover
@MS-gn4gl2 жыл бұрын
...
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Not everyone has a 3d printer though...
@nrd902 жыл бұрын
Hi Nathan, I 've got a Taichi hotend, but i could not finish a print, because the tip of the filament is stringing and deforming during the first swap, causing clogs. I'm running it with a bowden setup, but I'm planning to make it dual direct drive. do you have some suggestion? whats your retractions settings? Thanks
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
It definitely needs dual direct drive to work properly. I have links to my cad files for dual direct drive. Join my discord if you want to chat more, YT comments are hard to keep up with!
@Mobile_Dom2 жыл бұрын
be careful with the taichi, my pre-pro unit snapper one of the supporting screws in the heaterblock when I was *unscrewing* it
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Yeah they are pretty thin - M2s I believe. Stainless replacement screws should be pretty cheap and thermally equivalent. As long as your heatbreak is still intact you should be fine. I wrench on pretty much everything I try, including this, so I'm surprised to hear that issue. I feel like "1-handed nozzle change" is a bit of an overstatement used my manufacturers. Revo might be the first true 1-handed nozzle change system, since the threads are separated from the melt zone. If any nozzle has plastic in the threads it will require a lot of torque. At that point you probably should support the block when unscrewing.
@Mobile_Dom2 жыл бұрын
@@NathanBuildsRobots sadly the threaded part of my screw snapped inside the heatsink, so I'd need a new screw and a new heatsink if I where to replace it
@bridgetclinch36782 жыл бұрын
Dude, just got one of these hotends to play around with, have you got a link or example of your config for the two extruders with a single heater and thermistor?
@loothshaheem5732 жыл бұрын
Anyone else here after reading the hackaday article?
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
Just looked up the article. Thanks for mentioning it! People in the comments are hating on my "electrical engineering". Hackaday has always been more of an EE space, so of course they would notice those details. I do stand to learn from them, so I always appreciate the comments from EEs.
@techdesignsau79108 ай бұрын
This hotend clogs constantly despite everything I tried. Umteen different retraction settings, different fans, different filament. It is going in the junk bin & goodbye to the $120 buck I paid for it. Going back to the Dragonfly hotends that work great & I will build a tool changer instead.☹
@Andy-rq9ni2 жыл бұрын
I Appreciate what you are building, just not how you are doing it, or that noctua fan that you destroyed had me cringing,
@NathanBuildsRobots2 жыл бұрын
I have a box full of destroyed noctua fans. The most painful one was a brand new iPPC-3000 fan that I tried to take apart.