Glad it helped. Thank you very much too. Take care!

Honestly it is a lot cheaper to change the transmission fluid than it is to change the actual transmission out, so you have your choice

Thank you so much!

​@@DraftProjectdid you reset TCM after oil change?

Yeah, truly terrible. Everything is made to be broken, so take care of it to make it last. Thank you so much! Take care.

Thanks! Good luck!

That's great to hear! Thanks a lot!

It's the process exactly the same for the 21 cx30? I bought it at 60k miles used so I want to do it right away as I'm assuming they didn't do it

Thank you very much! I never heard of that and it sounds funny. Always take care!

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it that you observed those things. For me, it's better to do it that way since not everyone can easily understand the process.

size of washer gasket pls?

Thank you so much! You can do it too! Take care and good luck!

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much!

I really appreciate your comment. Thank you so much!

I love your comment. I really appreciate it. Thank you so much!!

Hjorte, you took the words right out of my mouth. Btw, it should be obvious that every fluid needs changing over time. And so in my humble opinion it should not take a Scotty Kilmer to tell us that. It should be OBVIOUS. Anyway, i like his video as well. :)

Thank you too! Take care as always.

Thank you very much! That's great. Excellent procedures sir. Keep it up!

Thanks Shawn!! Good luck and take care as always.

I WOULD NOT change 180,000 mile trans fluid if it's never been changed. Lots of transmissions will slip and run rough if u do.

If it starts slipping, just add some Lucas Oil Transmission Fix. That stuff is magic.

Yeah, it is a nasty job haha. Quite tiring to do so.

Thank you. Certainly yes, I agree. My bad. Here, we don't have a laboratory that test fluids. Therefore, we just normally just based on mileage and color.

Thank you so much!

Yeah, that's one thing to consider too, so these people could make extra money. Thank you very much!

Only issue with that is you would get mechanics also offering the slightly pricier but "more thorough" oil flush, which can do more harm than having left the old fluid untouched. All you want to do is a drain and fill, never a flush as it can dislodge safely deposited debris and potentially leave it in more sensitive locations.

Thank you very much!

Thanks for doing this video

Thank you for the feedback and advice too!

Thank you so much!

Good luck! Take care. Thank you very much!

Thank you very much too!

Thank you so much! I really appreciate it

Thank you very much! Take care as always

Thanks man! Appreciate it a lot!

At no time did I see any bolts refitted with loctite nor any use of a torque wrench???? You won't be doing MY Mazda Skyactiv AT when it outlasts the actual entire car in 20 years without a single oil change. @@DraftProject

Thank you very much for that. Sorry, unfortunately, I don't have a video for that. Perhaps soon once I got the opportunity to do that. Also, sorry. It has been a long time since you had requested this video. I wasn't able to edit sooner due to many setbacks along the way. I really appreciate your support. Thank you.

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much!!

Thanks man!

Good luck! Keep safe. Thank you!

The oil you removed was not excessively dirty and the oil filter and mag drain plug is designed to keep that debris out of the trans fluid and you claim you purchased this vehicle with already substantial mileage but don't them mention your car had covered 300,000 KM's when this video took place.. @@DraftProject

That's nice!

Lot of videos of this maintenance, show around 3.5 quarts is removed from dropping pan and filter replacement… So what is the real amount to refill?

Thank you very much!

Thank you!

You can do it. Good luck. Thank you!

Thank you very much!

Thank you!

Thank you very much!

That should do the trick. Thanks too man! Take care!

Thanks for the info. Something worthy to look for and study.

I have never tried that before. Thanks a lot! I will try that next time.

Welcome! Thank you too!

Not necessarily needed. But it's not bad to use it. RTV silicon helps seal oil pans especially if the surface of where the gasket will be place has scratches. If you are going to use it, make it clean as possible, avoid any excess RTV silicon.

I see. It seems like the word "lifetime" shouldn't be taken generally by definition. Maybe most people in Japan or in other countries change their cars after 5 years. Those years are the maximum usage of the vehicle and meant to be replace with a new one. Thank you very much for this information.

Thank you too!

Nope. It was only a local brand. It is good with high temperature and resistant to oil and other fluids. Not the best silicone I had, but it works pretty well. That brand would be better than mine. Sorry, I forgot the name of the silicone. Perhaps try searching for Permatex that are well suited for oil pans. The original sealant used in this Mazda is a red RTV silicone.

Thanks for commenting! For your question, 15-20 minutes drive should do. That's actually a good plan. That will totally clean the transmission. As for our recommendation, changing transmission filters should be done if the vehicle has reach 50,000 Km. If it only reached 25,000 on the clock, it is not necessary to change the filter, not unless if the vehicle has been bought used and you want to change it since you don't have any ideas on what the previous owner did to the vehicle. Also, another exception is if you want it to be totally clean, then go for it. I would do the same thing if I were in the same case. Hope it helps. Sorry for the late response. Thanks and take care.

I haven't handled a CX-9 model before but since skyactiv engines are pretty similar on every models, they could share the same concept, although not exactly the same. Thank you very much!

Desplácese hacia abajo para ver el mensaje traducido al español. Gracias. Hello! Here are some links. You can buy there or try finding the same product in your country's local online shopping site. Mazda ATF FZ Fluid: us.amazon.com/Genuine-Mazda-0000-FZ-113E-01-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B00P2P3HCQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mazda+atf+fz&qid=1668658042&sprefix=mazda+atf%2Caps%2C330&sr=8-1 www.ebay.com/itm/124066726694?epid=1622297667&hash=item1ce2f40326:g:YYsAAOSwq3FhldGr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOODWtszmgXsVhbH8DOFvfkyXamRyyJQjc92s6r4FNGLbMB6MuyXREwB7uaOvQmTFW3qPX20wRUCyen01nRkuvmtQ2U9PYOaZuGvroKnZR29hn1Mh18ia00%2BAb7%2Fzi%2BvpBPsnoMXXqecULECzvvTDmfjE7974Mi1wW2OBtZAgLsu3Gz6TJcr%2BarTvRFsAa59a8YMQ97zYnAXrbqMMhxzG5s%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4iL8LyQYQ For the transmission filter, unfortunately I couldn't find one. Sorry about that. A lot of them are replacement parts which I don't recommend. Just choose genuine OEM parts only. Sometimes it can be difficult to find parts online. Also, it can be expensive or cost more due to shipping fee. The best way is to go to your nearest Mazda dealership and order the ATF fluid and filter. Just remember this when going to the dealership to make it easier for you to buy. - Mazda ATF FZ Fluid * Only "FZ" not any other types of fluid. - Mazda Automatic Transmission Filter Part number: FZ11-21-500 Sorry for the long message. I hope this helps. Thank you very much!! Take care as always. In Spanish translation: ¡Hola! Aquí hay algunos enlaces. Puede comprar allí o intentar encontrar el mismo producto en el sitio local de compras en línea de su país. Mazda ATF FZ Fluid: us.amazon.com/Genuine-Mazda-0000-FZ-113E-01-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B00P2P3HCQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mazda+atf+fz&qid=1668658042&sprefix=mazda+atf%2Caps%2C330&sr=8-1 www.ebay.com/itm/124066726694?epid=1622297667&hash=item1ce2f40326:g:YYsAAOSwq3FhldGr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOODWtszmgXsVhbH8DOFvfkyXamRyyJQjc92s6r4FNGLbMB6MuyXREwB7uaOvQmTFW3qPX20wRUCyen01nRkuvmtQ2U9PYOaZuGvroKnZR29hn1Mh18ia00%2BAb7%2Fzi%2BvpBPsnoMXXqecULECzvvTDmfjE7974Mi1wW2OBtZAgLsu3Gz6TJcr%2BarTvRFsAa59a8YMQ97zYnAXrbqMMhxzG5s%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4iL8LyQYQ Para el filtro de transmisión, desafortunadamente no pude encontrar uno. Lo siento. Muchos de ellos son piezas de repuesto que no recomiendo. Simplemente elija solo piezas OEM originales. A veces puede ser difícil encontrar piezas en línea. Además, puede ser costoso o costar más debido a la tarifa de envío. La mejor manera es ir a su concesionario Mazda más cercano y pedir el líquido y el filtro ATF. Solo recuerde esto cuando vaya al concesionario para que sea más fácil para usted comprar. - Mazda ATF FZ Fluid *Sólo "FZ" no cualquier otro tipo de fluido - Mazda Automatic Transmission Filter Número de pieza: FZ11-21-500 Perdón por el largo mensaje. Espero que esto ayude. ¡¡Muchas gracias!! Cuídate como siempre.

Sorry I couldn't provide torque specs since I don't have an access on service manual of this vehicle. I just tighten it by feel. I make it snug with the right tension or feel. You can tighten it and let it sit for a bit. Then retighten it for the gasket to press and seal. After tightening the bolts, just let the gasket dry for a bit. Then add transmission fluid. Hope it helps. Thanks man!

For me, It's better to stick with Mazda ATF FZ just to be sure. It's not worth risking since Mazda ATF are sensitive and expensive.

A bad outer drive shaft has a clunking sound when turning left or right. For the inner, sorry, I haven't had a broken inner drive joints before. Inner drive joints have three bearings and the housing wears out overtime which causes a play and a rough movement of the car. I guess it's better to check first all of the bolts underneath. Also, make sure that there are no things inside the car that can cause noises. Maybe try checking your engine mounts too.

I just bought it from a physical automotive store. You can buy it online too. It doesn't have to be Mazda RTV silicone. When it comes to checking of fluid level, yes. The engine should be running when checking the fluid level.

I would delay it until I found an original one because it's hard to rely on it since these transmissions are delicate and sensitive. Even though these are well made brand of ATF, there is no assurance that these will work perfectly.

Apologies for I could not provide much information and leads. Some of the links below might help you find parts for your Mazda. Mazda USA Official Parts parts.mazdausa.com/p/Mazda_2014_Mazda2/BOLT/105326862/9946-41-025.html Ebay www.ebay.com/ Amazon www.amazon.com/ The best way to get genuine parts is to order to your nearest Mazda dealership. If that is hard in some situations, then I hope some of these sites might help you.

Nope. It doesn't have a rubber gasket and it will never have a rubber gasket. It only uses a sealant in between the oil pan and transmission.

@@DraftProject I see.. The filter that I purchased for my 2010 Mazda 3 sport included the rubber gasket.

@@vanquishstorm3806 I do encounter some replacement part which is a rubber gasket for this Skyactiv transmissions. I'm not sure if they do really work since Mazda originally didn't put one. For early models like yours, I'm not that sure since I haven't worked on 2010 models yet. I suggest to put some RTV silicone too along with the rubber gasket to make sure that it is properly sealed.

I wasn't sure about that yet. Perhaps it could have been an excess oil that has been accidentally poured in the dealership. But I will check it soon. Thank you

Yes, always use & check with a torque wrench. Many lazy & dishonest shops DO NOT use torque wrench.

Unfortunately, I don't have a service manual for this job, so I couldn't provide. My torque wrench is too big to set these things. Sorry about it. Thank you very much!

The Torque for the pan bolts is between 8 and 10 N/m. For the filterbolts I sugest to do the same as it has only to hold the filter in place. The torque for the drain plug I don't know. Strange enough my drainplug did not have a gasket/washer.

I'm not exactly sure about it since we don't have a 1.3 variant here. But as a general rule and if it has the same year range model, yes. These would always have the same transmission but has different ratios and engine.

Thank you for your comment! This is not a full flush. This is only a simple drain of transmission. On some vehicles, they have drain bolts on the torque converter which leads you to a full flush of transmission fluid. Draining by removing the drain bolt of the transmission pan does not remove all of the ATF inside the transmission. There will always be some old fluid left, especially on the torque converter. Congratulations on your new vehicle! Always check your odometer to keep track of your maintenance. For transmission oil change, we recommend following this interval. 25000 Km - Drain and refill only 50000 Km - Change of transmission filter / Drain and refill Based on our experience, especially with regards to Mazda's Skyactiv transmissions, they are prone to knockback and jerky motion after and beyond reaching 60000 - 70000 Km. Maintaining it's ATF fresh through the following interval helped prevent and even remove those problems. Also, it is also a good idea to check your owner's manual as it contains maintenance schedules too. Hope it helps. Thank you and take care!

@@DraftProject thanks so much!

Its always better to wait for it to cure first, so it would seal properly. Otherwise, oil can get in between when the gasket is still wet.

Definitely yes. If done correctly with the right type of fluid, it will prolong the lifespan of your transmission and have smoother and better results.

Yea change it I had the same vehicle with 200k and I did it it was much better

¡Saludos! Lo siento por la respuesta tardía. Cambiar el aceite nunca dañará la máquina siempre y cuando se haya utilizado el fluido correcto y se haya hecho correctamente. El fluido de por vida o nunca cambiar el aceite solo resultará en daños y un rendimiento degradado. El filtro y el aceite se ensucian con el tiempo, por lo que deben cambiarse en un intervalo específico. Los distribuidores que dicen que no necesitan cambiar el aceite son una estafa y una forma barata de mercadeo. No existe tal cosa como líquido de por vida. Honestamente, 200,000 Km están atrasados para un cambio de aceite de transmisión. Cambie el aceite y el filtro para aumentar la vida útil de su transmisión. Definitivamente sentirás una diferencia al hacerlo. Espero que esto ayude. ¡Muchos gracias! Cuídate. In English translation: Greetings! Sorry for the late response. Changing the oil will never hurt the machine as long as the correct fluid has been used and it is done properly. Lifetime fluid or never changing the oil will only result to damage and degraded performance. Filter and oil get dirty overtime, so they need to be changed at a specific interval. Dealers who says that they don't need to change the oil is a scam and kind of a cheap way of marketing. There is no such thing as lifetime fluid. Honestly, 200,000 Km is overdue for a transmission oil change. Please do change the oil and filter to increase the life span of your transmission. You will definitely feel a difference from it. Hope this helps. Thank you very much! Take care.

Yes, it would still be beneficial. The fluid does the job on everything. But of course, you get the idea that the filter is drenched on old fluid, which would basically mix with the new fluid. It would still work. But remember that filters have limits too. If that's the case, perhaps you should start looking for shops that could do the whole job for you. Hope it helps man! Take care

Well, I wasn't really sure about the outcome since Mazda did not designed them to have gaskets. The only possible things that I could see is that the bolts might not achieve its desired torque due to thickness of the gasket. Also, leaks can also happen too since RTV does a different seal compared to a regular gasket.

The procedures could be the same. Since it has a different engine, it will have a different layout and parts.

@@DraftProject thanks!

With the small experience I had, I would say I agree on that. I have never used 3/8, so I would try it on my next ATF oil change. Thank you very much.

or just use a t45 torx like a smart person lmao

If it is clicking noise in the engine, then it could need a valve lash adjustment or perhaps valve lifters are in bad shape.

I'm really sorry, I'm not sure about. We don't have the Diesel version here. Probably it's best to ask the dealership for that. Here is the part number of the transmission filter. Part number: FZ11-21-500

If it does meet the standards and specification, it can be used. But actually, I don't really recommend it. It's kinda hard to gamble when it comes to transmission since they are quite expensive to repair or replace once damaged. If you can afford the FZ fluid from Mazda, it's better.

Got it. Indeed it is kinda scary sometimes when using the allen key. Gonna change anytime soon. Thanks a lot!

@@DraftProject I am also careful to find an exact fitting one too. I don't like feeling any play in that bit when I insert it in a plug or bolt. I know there is often a very tiny bit but I at least try a few for the best fit if I don't know the size. What is worse is that some cars have those bolts that need a triple square bit. Some call it a splined bit. Some people might attempt to use a Torx or Allen bit in those. That is a big mistake unless it is so loose it is about to fall out!!! On a Volkswagen I had the brake calipers were mounted with those. You can imagine the frustration of ruining one of those bolts in such a small place. To make it worse those bolts are infamous for being easily ruined if the bit is not all the way in because it was crammed full of dirt.

@@charleshines2142 I really appreciate the information that you had given me. It really is a pain in the ass. It's like telling us that these cars with special bolts should only be serviced in the dealers. Specific tools like the ones you've mention are pretty hard to find. Therefore, it is not DIY friendly, leaving us the choice to take it to a shop, or force it, destroy it and change it with an alternative bolt. Thank you very much!! Take care!

I also heard it from other people especially from the dealer itself. Upon experience, I guess it won't be dangerous if did correctly. The moment it becomes dangerous when done incorrectly like having or putting insufficient oil, wrong way of measuring fluid level and more. Filters do get dirty overtime, and it comes to the point that it needs to be replaced as well as the fluids.

New fluid is blue. Once used, the color of the fluid changes to red due to oxidation which is normal. Thank you very much!

It's a 2016 model. Yes. That's sounds nice. It seems like the car has been well taken care off. Most dealerships won't offer transmission service due to their marketing and belief of lifetime fluid. If you have the opportunity, go and have it change. It will prolong and make the transmission operate smoothly. Take care. Thanks!!

I'm going to do it myself. My model has the 4 speed auto transmission not the sky active. All the OEM filters online say that they don't come with the oring.

I see. Sorry I wasn't sure about that since I haven't handled a non-Skyactiv model. Mostly they come with o-ring. It may seem like it has a different design. Thanks man. Good luck and as always, take care.

Hi, I am not familiar of Mazda Biante. I searched for it and found that this is a vehicle equipped with a Skyactiv engine. If thats the case then, I would suggest you to remove the air intake box assembly. The dipstick might be there underneath the air intake box assembly which is pretty common for Mazda's with Skyactiv engine.

@@DraftProject thank you for your reply my friend.

Sorry, I'm not sure on what could it be. I haven't experienced it before. On older Mazda vehicles, there would be a solenoid on top of the transmission. I heard they clean it to fix the problems of delayed engagements.

Actually i have this same exact delay & slippage issue as u mentioned. Have u found out what is causing them? Thanks.

We couldn’t find an easy solution. Ended up selling car.

Some of the aspects and other concepts applies, so yes. The only thing that makes a difference is that Grand Touring has different engine, so it could have different parts, fluid level and others. But it still has an FZ transmission since it has a Skyactiv engine.

Haven't tried those. Thanks! I will try those next time.

What I did is I removed the lower part of the intake box and left the upper part. It is very important to leave the upper part because the ECU needs the signal of the MAF sensor. You can see on the upper intake box, there is a built-in sensor. This is very important because this measures the air flow of the intake system. Once disconnected, the ECU will be confused, leaving the engine idling very rough. Try to leave the upper part. It may be hard but it's the only way to go. You just have to carefully reach for the dipstick. Actually, this is normally done on a car lifter. But in our case, we don't have that kind of access not unless you can jack the whole car very high. Hope it helps. Thanks a lot!

@@DraftProject very helpful. Will do this and check levels again. Thanks so much!