For real!

Thank you Ray

Thank you for sharing your experience I love to hear that and I’m so glad that it worked out for you And thank you for taking the time to comment it is very much appreciated Ray

Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated. It’s nice that other guys understand just because we have machinery that costs millions of dollars things can still be done on the cheap with almost no tooling

@@shopandmath i do almost everything in wood, some metals, and use hand tools. So definitely no equipment or machines. I’m trying to develop my machine shop skills so i can create better machines for my specific woodworking uses. I’m just beginning to learn, and frankly, i love the internet for stuff like this. Not having to have millions of dollars in machinery is fantastic. Being able to create is the path to freedom. One time when i did this i welded up a dolly that tilted my entire car up to 45 degrees on the side. I reinforced it (just in case) with big lag bolts. It actually worked, all my angle maths and counterbalance meant i could lift the whole car with one hand and it would stay up for cutting out rusty metal (vintage car resto). Felt like days to drill 16 holes through four plates. It WORKED! Thanks again!

You can’t overheat a carbide tip with a hand-held drill. Even a very strong person can’t exert enough pressure to generate enough friction to even approach the melting point of the brazing metal holding the carbide tip to the steel shank, never mind a temperature the carbide would become soft. The resistance to very high heat is what makes carbide a good cutting material. The gaps in the saw blades for masonry are not for cooling - they are there to help evacuate the ground material. Otherwise the dust acts like a lubricant between the material and the blade. You can think of it as chips accumulating in the gullets of the blade when cutting thick metal or wood with fine-tooth blade.

I’m glad that it worked out for you. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. I just made a video but I have not posted yet I’m drilling through an end mill Ray

Thanks for watching! and commenting # shorts is something new to KZfaq its only available now in India because India band tic toc just an experiment

used 5 total with only one that I would reuse

Thanks for subbing

thank you for sharing And thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

I’m guessing that you have work hard in the stainless steel into something that’s almost impossible to drill through I don’t know if it’s possible can you heat that area up with a torch to soften the material

You can drill stainless just fine with regular HSS drill bit (cobalt is better, though) The trick is to go slow with RPMs but maximize pressure on the tip. And use something to cool the tip of the drill bit. Ordinary “vegetable” oil from the kitchen is good for that. Unlike WD40 many people use, it sticks to the bit and if you smell it, you know you need to stop and let it cool. Most people get impatient at the slow progress and increase RPM. That quickly heats up the tip of the drill bit which makes it soft and it becomes dull in seconds. High pressure + low RPM+ coolant+patience is the magic formula. Note that it is very difficult to exert enough pressure for the drill to bite into steel while holding the drill with your hands. A crappy drill press can easily apply 150-250lbs of force. It is nearly impossible to even approach that holding the drill in hands. So you need to start with a small bit (no more than 1/8, smaller is better). The small force you apply holding the drill in your hands is applied to small area of the tip so the “per square inch” pressure is fairly high and usually enough for the cutting edge to bite into steel. Still-keep rpms low and use coolant.

thank you for the comment Ray

Hi great vid ! How did You make the grinder to spin so slowly?

@@petersydow4002 it's an optical illusion. The grinder is spinning very fast

@@jeremyclose705 how fast?200 a minute or faster ?

If you have access to a drill press, that will cut your time for drilling in half If you can use coolant on the drill, press your drill bits will last twice as long Thank you for sharing Ray

But

I use a diamond wheel to sharpen them which can be a little expensive. You can also get a green wheel that sharpens carbide. It’s a little more cost-effective.

Thank you for taking the time to comment and thank you for the nice comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

Hi William I would love to be able to see identifying photos of the PTO to see what type of heat treat was done to this unit. I can only assume that it’s a spline shaft And I would have to guess that the heat treating process is flame hardening that would give the splines or a bearing line shaft, and extremely hard outside with a soft core on the inside This would also be the strongest type of heat treatment for a PTO shaft, because it gives the extreme hardness on the outside with the flexibility remaining in the core Oh, when you tried to drill before with The Bosch drills,, which are extremely high quality drills I have a couple of questions Were you able to break the skin or was the material too hard to penetrate at all? Are you located near Kitchener Ontario? Is the shaft on the equipment currently or has it been removed? Are you trying to drill this with only a hand drill? Ray

@@shopandmath The only way to drill through that shaft is with a regular hand drill...the roto tiller weighs almost 400 pounds, you ain't picking it up and carrying it around. I'm not tearing the gearbox apart on a 2 month old roto-tiller to be able to take the shaft into the shop and use the drill press LOL...and at this point that wouldn't be any different than what I'm already doing. I have managed to destroy both the carbide bits that I have, so I'll have to pickup another one and see if I can finish it as I think I'm really close to punching through the other side now. What a pain this is LOL...would be nice with a drill press, but like I said I'm not taking apart a gearbox on a new roto-tiller. I've got maybe a 1/8" to a 1/4" of drilling left on that shaft and I should be through it....then the easy part, putting a retaining bolt through so the adapter stops coming off LOL. There isn't anything soft on that shaft at all, it has been hard drilling through the shaft, its hardened all the way through.

@@wildbill23c Sorry, my advice couldn’t be much help on the bright side you’re almost through Ray

@@shopandmath HAHA...finally after a 3rd bit I got through it...wow when they said hardened steel they weren't kidding LOL.

@@wildbill23c congratulations you beat it

yes, this was much more harder of material than what I wanted to do as a demonstration The plan was to use a hand drill and not a drill press The concept I was trying to explain, or show was minimum cost with tools that you have at home to drill hard material During the time that I had set aside to do this demo, our hardness test was broken so I needed a material that was easily identified as being extremely hard, and the only thing I could find was an endmill

I didn't make the video , I noticed nobody replied . But yes for a hand held drill this is a better method as a full carbide bit would be more likely to snap while using said handheld drill .

Thanks for having my back

Solid carbide, in a hand drill does not do very well because there’s no rigidity. A carbide tipped drill will do relatively well because only the tip is super hard. The shaft is flexible. This gives you a little bit more leniency. If you have had success drilling with solid carbide without chipping the ends you’re doing very well and you have a much more study here than I do. If you have video if you’d like to share it, I will incorporate that into my next drilling video Thank you for sharing Ray

That’s excellent If you want share the link Ray

fix I've tried posting something as simple as my email in a youtube comment section and had youtube not allow the comment to get posted (yet somehow every creators video has a million spam bots, figure that one out lol). So I can't post the link. But the drills are made by super tool, you can find them if you search on amazon for carbide tipped jobber drill bits. They say they're made in the usa in the title. I've had good luck with them.

Got them used at the restore If not you can get them at Home Depot Thank you for your comment Ray

I love the restore !! Great prices don't feel the pain as bad when u total the bits !!

Anything is possible but that would take a long long time I would try a diamond wheel on a grinder even a hand grinder

try buying a cheep diamond wheel for the grinder or table saw

Diamond bits on a Dremel work wonders too

yes they have the same profile as the bosh drills the only improvement would be a positive cutting angle and even that depends on the type of material you are cutting

Thank you for taking the time to comment This video is about drilling by hand Through hardened steel If you’ve watched the walk through the shop video You’ll see that I have access to basically every type of machine tool there is My friend wanted me to make this video to show how you at home without any fancy equipment can drill harden material I do wish I would’ve chosen something a little bit softer though this took an excruciating amount of time Hopefully you found a titbit of information useful All the best Ray

@@shopandmath I am glad that You suffered and prevailed with rc59 ,now I know it's possible.

@@petersydow4002 thank you its not the best quality video i was trying something new and shooting outside ray

its more abot thr drill bit then the drill it is best to use a drill press or mill if you can Ray

Wish I was there I’d help you. I like this kind of challenge What is the minor diameter or major diameter? In the circumstances is it possible to do the welding technique, or even easy out ? At three hours each that’s a week and a half so worth of work. I bet you with the proper technique we can get it down to 15 minutes each including retyping the whole. Are you located in Toronto by any chance? Ray

Fast. Its like looking at a helicopter blade. It looks slow.

Yes the softer material will create curly chips which come out almost the same as mild steel It changes when the material becomes extremely hard and it is hard to control the RPM on a hand Drill This type of drilling is a worst case scenario when you don’t have the machine shop or the CNC machine with it super rigidity or through coolant tooling This is when you’re down to basic handtools One of the sister videos to this is drilling a quarter 20 tap that I broke off it might have better explanations in it

If the drill keeps turning in the bit stops moving it slipping inside of the chuck You are correct for using a step drill to drill into sheet metal that’s one of the best tools or drills to use for sheet-metal

@@raysfix what torque number should I have the number on

@@ygbodybuilder3023 It should be setting for drill not torque I’m guessing that you’re using a drill that has torque setting or slip setting one through probably 15 there should also be a little image of a drill that’s the one you should have it on so it does not slip at all

I originally was going to make this video using a hand drill, but our hardness tester was broken at the time, so I needed to drill something that was identifiable as being hard material so I decided to go with an end mill I do have a video where I use a hand drill

I meant an actual, hand powered, hand drill.

sorry I don’t know Ray

I never thought of shooting a hole in it Thank you for taking the time to comment Ray

@@raysfix yes if you cant drill it shoot it . Then clean up with a grinder 👍

Sorry I don’t have Instagram At least I don’t think I do

Thank you

I did my best to show the angles it’s basically the Angles for sharpening a standard drill I have other drill sharpening videos posted

Hi Edward Thanks for pointing that out for me I do it all the time unfortunately then it gets incorporated into the video and it cannot be changed The last video on squaring it auto corrected on me and called it squattnes Didn’t catch it and cut and pasted the same art frame in Canva And repeated four times during the video Last night I removed the video and reposted it with the repair because the videos cannot be edited Thank you for your comment Ray

I love the new word " squatness"!

Thank you for taking time to comment much appreciated

I have gotten in so much trouble about this Ray

It’s actually a cordless 20 V drill But is held in your hand. Therefore, it’s a hand drill, not the traditional hand cranked drill. I do have three traditional hand, crank drills, one with the old-school tapered shank. That’s a tapered square and I have one that’s the eggbeater style used for smaller bits and a traditional hand crank with a chuck on the end not a lot of use for those guys anymore the traditional, with the crank and Chuck Were OK to use before the lithium ion batteries as a deburring tool but now with the new style of batteries that don’t go dead in storage, I’ll leave a tool or chaffering tool and an electric drill as you like to call it Thank you for commenting. Have a nice day.

@shopandmath kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iqiZodKj0rmXfas.htmlsi=a0jx_6ukUnEc1n2b Just in case you and I are not on the same page. Can you use these on metal? Have you tried?

you are right :-) Ray