Just started surface grinding this week thank you !. I only got 1 right

👍

Nice work. We take the parts and spray paint black over them. Cheap fast good contrast.

Not sure how I landed here but I’m blown away you cut that hole on $3 and a brain! Well done sir.

These videos are amazing for a young toolmaker

Lol I could have used this info a while back. I had to put holes in a new blade for my friends tractor bucket. That was an adventure. I made slow progress with cobalt bits, constantly resharpening, I actually enjoy sharpening drill bits. The whole world disappears and its just me, the bits and the grinder. I ended up using a cutting torch which made quick work of it.

Thank you. I am adding a bunch to my Jon not build… I shall now go back over them and make sure they were fully crimped! I stopped at the first squeeze.

5:35 I think you mean 42 hole plate and not 46 hole plate. Very helpful, though.

Very impressive: all for the cost of a few masonry drill bits! I am going to try to re-grind the masonry drill bits using the small diamond discs used in Dremel type tools as I already have them and only need to drill 4mm holes in hardened steel. Many thanks.

Not bad, 100% correct with how much “out of square” the block is when dividing total indicator reading by 2. I definitely recommend your “new” indicator stand so that you can rotate the stand to high point on both sides. Eliminating surfaces when measuring tight tolerance is key, meaning getting rid of the round dowel pin in between work piece and indicator stand, it’s just more surfaces. Anyway good video.

Yep, masonry bits are carbide tipped. Thanks for showing the grind geometry👍

Very interesting. Nice work sir

Just watched your videos with trigs, are these the types of questions on C of Q exam? Thanks & more power

For those using this reference,please be mindful that in a Ontario C of Q exam there are NO "none" of the above questions.There are only ever 4 possible answers with 2 answers being completely wrong and 2 being similar,with 1 correct.When considering the answer,and are still unsure,READ the question again,and again..and again if not sure...WHAT are they asking for? That will help.When you look at it in that sense it really is a 50-50 question,and may help ease anxiety.Although this may be a good reference in a general sense,it is not a good reference for a true C of Q exam

It seems one reason the bits were breaking was you were using a drill press. If it were solid mounted in a Bridgeport, or similar machine, I think you could have got away with one bit. Your masonry bit is also fairly long, letting it wander. It's an interesting concept, in the case I ever have to drill something super hard. Wasn't that a HSS end mill that you were trying to drill? how would you drill a similar 7/8ths/1" (whatever diameter it is) pure carbide end mill??

Excellent presentation of information - thank you. YT used to be a place that was about sharing knowledge and where passionate experts shared. Today there is a lot of hot air and nonsense. It's a pleasure to find a teacher on here again. With respect to inactive cutting oil DIY solution (with its magic 95% composition :P ). Different cooking oils have different smoke points where they break down - but also importantly where their wettability changes. This is the principle behind "seasoning" cast iron. Normally an oil poured on cold metal will "ball up" due to high surface tension. I'm not super informed on when higher smoke point oils begin to lose that and spread out vs low smoke point. I wonder if they would be more helpful than Vege oil in extending its use? Olive oil has less heat capacity so it might be worse? (also goes rancid very easily). For your light machining fluid would the use of an oil like avacado or other with high smoke point make it more effective? Drilling mild steel or using hole saws - your inactive solution would be ok? How about "Gummy" metal like Aluminium? 2nd Topic: BIOFILM Machinery that circulates fluid like a cutting agent is at risk of bacteria forming what is called "Biofilm". This is what plaque on your teeth is as example, or the slimy layer on a pipe. Bacteria produce biofilm to breed and protect from threats. Bacteria in a biofilm is 500x more resistant to killing than free bacteria. This means that bacteriocidal cutting fluid may not clean out an "infection" if your machine is gummed up with algae or whatnot through its feed tubes and channels. It may be necessary to use a flushing agent that will break down biofilm and remove it. I'm talking soft bacterial growth - not calcified formation or calcified bacterial growth which can also occur long term due to mineralised water sources. Oil/Grease or other contaminant buildup/blockage is different too. Detergent will clean oils... might not clean biofilms. Something like hypochlorite (bleach) will work but will take time to break down the gunk and need flushing through. An algicide may also be required as an alternative. See pool or spa supplies. Afterward you would want to flush very thoroughly to ensure no damage is done to components and then fill with your new cutting fluid.

* hardened steel not harden steel

An outstanding presentation! Special thanks for being considerate and lowering the irritating background volume. 99% of youtube videos have a volume which destroys the eardrums and renders the useful speech useless.

Knowing about the spring-loaded sleeve makes all the difference 🙂 Thanks.

You might have had a Hastloy insert which is still harder than HSS. Stellite (I worked at a Union Carbide plant in 1966) where stellite was manufactured. It was only a few points below most tungsten carbide. It was hard. I don't remember the exact chemistry but it had cobalt, chromium, and ???? It was not machinable, so it had to be cast and them finished by diamond grinding. We made many turbine blades for jets using Hastaloy which would maintain strength and stability in a red heat. We made thousands of valve seats for Caterpillar by casting rings then grinding to final shape.

Can you please give some details on the spring that you're using?

The thermal expansion and solution that I am not allowed to do, what else I can do? The piece and the vise must be square for the product, 15 degrees not an option unfortunately for my case :(.

I am giving you 2 thumbs up because it worked on something I have tried to find a solution to for days. Excellent advice!!!

I applied for cook two months back but didnt hear anything from their side.kindly suggest

Very good explanation 👍

Cool. Ive been sharpening drills for many years, that magnifier helps so much. From my experience 1 in 10 bits are straight(cheap or not) which can cut many many holes. The angle of the angles doesnt matter but the edges have to be identical. Good eyes can notice an out of round bit, but a good hole proves it.

Hello Please, to send plans ?

Hello Please, to send plans 3D ?

Hello Please, to send plans ?

I leave the negative angle in, but sharpen the cutting edge. The tip will then not break so easily. Drilling force will be higher, but that is OK as most of the load on the edge is in compression, which the carbide can take. (If you look at drills for removing taps, they have negative edges.) You need to slow the speed, apply sulfur cutting oil, & drill steadily rather than peck so much. Contrary to popular opinion, "carbide" is not pure tungsten carbide; it is a composite of powdered carbide bonded with cobalt which can melt. You need to limit tool temperature with reduced speed & coolant, just like when using high speed steel. Be very careful when encountering intersecting cross-holes (as you did in the milling cutter)& at break-through.

Ha good technique ✌

I think it's more accurate to call it "telescoping," rather than "telelscopic" because that's the kind of thing I think about all the time whether I want to or not.

I'm assuming this works on truck-spring to, I always have to torch drill on that stuff which ok since I'm not using truck-spring as truck-spring, but still like to get a round hole..........

Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but grinding carbide is a serious health hazard... wear a good mask for safety... I have done this masonry bit trick many times myself... works great ! 🤗 😎👍☘🍻

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,keep it technical................................the bit is not a guy,,,,,,or a gal.............................

Great information 👍 thank

An elegantly cheap solution to an expensive problem. A few things could have been done a little different but overall it accomplished what I needed to know and I am well pleased with this video - GOOD WORK!

I feed in with my cross slide when threading. However I still set the compound to 29 degrees so I can shift the cutter if I need to tweak the thread a bit. Still enjoying your videos!

Hi Ray, you have an excellent tool to do the job. I am in Australia (yes, the backward country) ....Is there a supplier in America to order this tool from? 🤔

Where is the diamond glass cutting steel?😂😊

I would have just used an end cutting carbide end mill.

How to drill HARDENED steel? Or, how to drill HARD steel.

wonderful explaination, you deserve appreciation😁

Eso amazing video thanks

I noticed you don't use cutting oil or water to cool it. Too much pressure could be cracked carbide head.

Does the dressing stick have to be finer grit then the diamond wheel?

How is sixteen and one-half divided by two equal to eight and one-half?

Great video, very informative. What interests me is your safety helmet. Who is it made by & can you supply a link, cheers.

Use enough lubricating coolant!!!!

Lubricant?