Folks, this shop and the people that work there are A1+. Because of this video, I called their shop and spoke with one of their technicians. He took the time to answer my questions to help me understand what was best for me and my application, and, provided helpful tips to be certain there were no errors during my install (and I live 845 miles away). The people make the company. No wonder this company has been in business over 45 years! Thank you!

Thank you for this video. You have made my choice easy.

Show us your data on the strength differences.

I’ve always ran non-greasable joints in the axle shafts of my trail rigs. After watching this, I wish I had swapped in all non-greasable into my axle shaft when I brought it to you when a greasable went out. Well, there’s always next time. 😆👍 You guys are top notch, keep up the great work!

Thanks for the info it helped me make a decision. I was thinking of switching to greasable but not now. Thanks Again!

Great video Sir. Changed my mind today. Sealed it is.

Found this video after rebuilding the drive shaft on my 2010 Toyota Tacoma. I was surprised the U-joints I purchased directly at the dealer did NOT have grease fittings like the O.E. Makes sense now. And I was supposed to grease the O.E. joints every 3,000 miles? No wonder they failed after 200,000 miles!

I love how the term lifetime or life of vehicle are used as like it will last for 60 years or 300,000 miles

Thank you So Much... Who Knew?? Not Me.. I have a 97 dodge HD 3/4 ton & the gentlemen i got it from had all new drive lines put in just before i purchased it.. They are the non greaseable Spicer.. I was thinking on figuring out a way to grease them but now im not going to worry about it... Thanks again for the wonderful information!!

Very educational. Perhaps like powder coat (which people swear by, but doesn't last at all here), the sealed joints work better in climates other than where I live. I always hated non-greasable U-joints, ball joints etc. I get about 70,000 miles out of a sealed U-Joint here in the rust belt. I rarely change greasable U-joints if I keep them greased. I never chage greasable ball joints or tie rod ends. I have replaced them (and greasable ball joints) on other folk's cars where they were neglected. The exception is my 93 Toyota Previa All Trac (have had to replace CV boots on front axles a couple times, but never touched the UJoints, so perhaps it is possible to make a good sealed unit in Japan). It has 265,000 miles on the factory sealed joints and still going strong. But I've changed tons of OEM sealed ones on domestic cars, often at around 70,000 miles. I put sealed ones in my front axle shafts as I couldn't buy greaseable for my 77 Jeep. Drilled and threaded the end caps so I can screw a grease fitting in to grease them. no clearance so I screw plugs in afterwards. That was in the 80's and still going strong! But for people who don't service their own car or have lazy mechanics who don't grease stuff every or every other oil change or at least once or twice a year, sealed probably is the way to go for the reasons you mentioned. Where I live, Salt water WILL get in regardless of the seals. Just never was impressed by sealed OEM, except for the old Previa. I always replace sealed components with greasable which really do last the life of my cars (I like to keep them WELL beyond 100,000 miles).

I have a 07 4Runner 2WD with original u joints and I have 200k miles and is time to change the u joints. The originals don’t have zerk fittings. This video just confirmed that u joints with no zerk fittings last longer.

That white one is a 5-____x 1310,1350,1410 etc I had a few of those sent to me and I did not like them. The plastic seal goes POP and snaps up onto a stepped portion of the trunnion and it makes things hard to move and noisy. Same goes with their triple rubber oring. This triple rubber oring is attached to a mushroom brass fitting and is supposed to be pressed into the cap, mine were lopsided and actually causing more binding. The shitty little plastic washer in the bottom of the cap is useless. I got a shaft from PTI that had these washers squished to death. There were plastic chunks mixing with the needle bearings. They sent me replacements and i realized they were animals and did that on purpose. It caused .025" of runout in the driveshaft, and they put a ton of weight on the shaft exactly opposite this runout which was obvious. I replaced them and voila! now it spun almost true, .002" runout. But I accodentally dropped one of the needle bearings in the cap when I was pressing them in and it obliterated that shitty plastic washer. Luckily I had a spare. Greasable ujoints are butter smooth and have none of these problems. Companies will make test results show whatever they want, and if it doesnt, they will do it over again until it does, behind closed doors. I agree if you drive through mud etc with a jeep per say the non greasable will keep clean better. But..... It all boils down to regular useage, cars, pickups, vans, and sucs, the fact is nobody greases ANYTHING, so naturally non greasable will win in that scenario. Grease your car! Suspension and steering components too! And as far as strength, unless you are pushing 700 horsepower there is no friggin way that matters.

I think it should have said at the end if you don't maintain your vehicle sealed is the way to go if you are under it every 5-7k grease able is the way to go

Does the same go for wheel bearings? Sealed is better than greasable?

He's right...I have more than 300K + miles on my Isuzu P'up, still have the OEM sealed UJoints. Just make you don't go to flooded areas where water can enter through the seals, that said the grease will dried up that cause pre-mature wear.

Hi there nice info! I'm searching for u-joint, as in driveline, comparisons. Do you know anyone who has compared wear, load abilities, and resistance to operational grime with OEM new u-joints and a few popular aftermarket brands too? Like Moog to Spicer to Toyota to GM, etc. I am especially interested in tests between the same size of competitive brands of both sealed and re-greaseable universal joints. Thanks!

Great video, do you the Spicer or the Moog? This is my second time replacing the greasable Moog U-joints in 2 years, I'm thinking about going with the Non grease Spicer.

zerk fitting before U joint goes bad!😁

I question the statement regarding the bearing in a sealed u-joint are higher quality than the bearings in a greasable u-joint. I'd be interested if you could confirm this with a link that I can view.

Life of the vehicle what does that mean I have 336,593 miles on my 2002 Toyota 4runner sr5 2wd

The life of your vehicles must be shorter than mine because I keep replacing these sealed ujoints

You will never convince me . Ever.

I guess it all depends on what your definition of the life of the vehicle is. If someone kept their car for 50 or 60 years would the universal joint or the grease last so long.

the long life of the u-join comes from the quality of the metal I gey Toyota OEM and I only grease then 50K miles

Yeah, show us hard fact data on the strength difference, also you say that the non readable is more precision ground which means it’s more expensive closer tolerances which means less lubrication. Lack of lubrication kills metal parts on top of the treatable joint is beefed up to support the drillings. And as lubrication properties fail over time because your not able to remove the contaminants its creates more wear on the metal parts. So your information is skewed on a bias. I have yet to see any supporting documentation to prove that there is more vibration in a treatable joint than non greasable.

Funny my brand new atv has non serviceble u joints and they lasted 2000 miles

Me (just bought greasable u joints) 😐

I do have a question though. If non greaseable u-joints are higher quality, then why are they not used in commercial vehicles that use massive amounts of more torque than any car? I’m truly curious about this.

Ok. So now take the caps off of your sealed UJ. Guess what? It has same grease passages as the greasable one. YA! You can stick a nail from one side all the way to the other and out. Guess you didn’t think this through very well.

You should've showed us the end of the cap...if it was drilled or not.no one saw it..👎