Outstanding sir! Simply explaining why a few dollars more are smart gets my double thumbs up👍👍

I need a DIY video on how to fix it . Well done . Thank you.

Thanks for the information. I'm definitely the type that likes the greasable joints. I am meticulous about doing my own maintenance and I like greasing up everything before a trail run (on the Jeep) and look for problems before they happen. I have been using them for about 20+ years now and have not had an issue. I fully understand your reasoning and it makes perfect sense for the average user that never crawls under their vehicles to do any maintenance. But for me, they work great and I like having the ability to grease, or in my case, over grease them.

This is a very well done and concise video presentation. Nice work.

I learned a lot. Great video.

Excellent presentation! Thank you Sir.

This is great information, thanks!

Thanks for the DIY. Going with the sealed u-joints, as the grease fitting can be difficult to get to.

My 2000 F-150 cardan u joint lasted 300,000 miles, they were the factory original non-grease type. I’ve decided to change them out myself both the front and rear shaft not due to any problems with them just out of precaution.

Very well explanations!!! Thanks!!!

I've actually had 1 scenario on I think it was an older ford half ton maybe? Idk honestly don't remember exactly the vehicle. BUT upon installation of the joints (greasables) the nub that sticks out for the zerk actually made the Cardone joint unable to operate and pivot in its rotation properly! Caused severe binding. Installed seals joints with no nub on them and tada no more issues! Just for for thought

After more than twenty years of driving Jeeps off road, I still haven't made up my mind which type is best. My failure rates are mostly similar between both styles. I do agree that 'non-regreasable' joints with solid trunnions are stronger than joints that have been drilled through the cross, but as I have only ever experienced one broken drilled trunnion in hundreds of joints, I guess it depends on the driving style if that additional strength matters. The rear cardan joint on one of my Jeeps is close to the exhaust muffler. The underbody armour I have fitted prevents copious air flow to the joint and non-greasable joints fail early when I use them in the rear cardan because of the external heat source. It is difficult to say if I get as much as twice the life by using re-greasables in my rear cardan joint but they do appear to last longer when greased regularly. I was getting 5K to 10K miles before failure, before I switched to re-greasables. My front shaft cardan was lasting much longer. I have noticed that I don't always get good grease flow to all trunnions when re-greasing on the vehicle. I have experimented with flush zerks for re-greasing on the Jeep, but I now prefer to re-grease with the driveshafts removed. I use either conventional zerks that are small enough to not getting squished in maximum articulation or temporarily fitting a long zerk for the re-greasing process, replacing it with a threaded plug for normal operation when done. Re-greasing off the vehicle enables me to get a good seal with the nozzle and I can see the grease flowing from all of the caps easily. The added advantage is that I can wipe clean the centring ball seal and check it for damage and pump sufficient grease into the ball. I will do some more research on the 3,000 mile advice. I currently schedule a re-grease when I do oil changes. This is usually on a 7,500 mile or six month interval whichever comes first. If a zerk is in view and I have a grease gun handy it will get greased.

Hmmm... seeing as how I am the original owner of my 2005 Tundra 4x4, and it has 145k miles on it, and while changing the driveshaft carrier bearing today, I discovered my factory u joints (spicer) have grease fittings on them, which I NEVER greased in 145,000 miles, and they work perfectly fine... I will will have to disagree with you that they have to be constantly greased. By the way, I did grease them today before reinstalling the driveshaft. I know that nobody else greased them either because I do my own maintenance and oil changes. As far as strength, and ability to seal, I agree with your points. I will say though, I have taken my Tundra offroad a LOT, and drove it around through lots of water in Houston during hurricane Harvey (water was on the floorboard inside the truck many times) and my U-joints are fine, so the lesser seals obviously kept the water out. But all that said, I will replace them with sealed spicer next time. I will say though that all the 4x4 forums and hardcore 4x4 guys prefer greaseable joints because they said you just pump them full of grease after deep water, mud or whatever to purge the contamination out. They swear by greaseable joints.

Great video. 👍

thanks for the info!

Interesting, my front axle U-joints finally failed on my 98 ram after 23 years and 218k miles, probably from factory. They're sealed versions. Long haul, occasional gravel, constant dirt road along with potholes. The first 70k served as an oil field truck. I need whatever these were haha.

Ok all good info but, where do I get replacement parts for the center ball joint on my 4x4 excursion? Please anyone

Great video. Thanks for the great information. How strong are the double cardan u joints? I'm upgrading my 10 bolt rear end in my 71 Chevy Impala to a stronger 12 bolt posi unit but I'm afraid I might have a weak link in the drive line with that stock double cardan u joint on the driveshaft. Do you think that double cardan joint will hold up under higher horsepower demands or should I just reposition the pinion angle to accept a regular single u joint driveshaft.

"Tremendous" is a overstatement. At 3000 miles the joints do not take a leap to bad.. In fact if You don't cross streams and dip into lakes, pound through sand and the like, the joints can sustain without relube much longer than that. When a non servicable joint does any of the above, its a leap of faith that the seals did what they need, and You have no way to tell.

Umm the sealed joint you showed still had the bearing end hollow. See video at 7:17. Maybe not the inner circle but i have never seen them fail there its always been the outside. Also the better sealing mentioned is nice but if you believe that seal will let nothing in talking going through deep water mudd ect your nuts. At least on the greasable you can pump fresh grease through and clean them. I do not believe there is a diffrence in the bering pins at least not in any of the ones i have replaced. An accurate statement would be a non greasable u joint is better if your not going to grease your joints because of the mentioned better sealing. Buys sesled if your not going to grease buy greasable if your going to grease. And buy quality either way that my opinion.

Wow..! You need to do some more videos..these are very helpful. Also,..I would recommend correcting the spelling of the title for your channel...."Macine...?"

I'm glad my 19 tundra uses sealed U Joints

Not to mention that the non-greaseable ones are stronger!

Greasable is my choice since 1972 . I would rather service my u joints and monitor their condition and while under my truck i can look at the power train for for future problems . Non greasable you do not know their condition until they start clunking and leave you stranded . U joints are rated by duty cycles they all fail sooner or later

Action machine inc. I have a front end vibration and believe my front driveshaft is to blame. It's in a 98 jeep wrangler with 192k on the clock all original front drive shaft. So your recommendation is a grease able center kit vs non greaseable. Why is that? Factory is sealed and I know you recommend sealed u joints. Why not sealed center kit too? Wouldn't that last longer and be stronger?

Are there any carden joints that use 1350 u joints and will bolt onto gm np208?

Can I just change a bad u joint at a double cardan or does it need rebuilt/replaced?

I completely agree with non greasable physically being stronger because its not drilled for a grease passage..and because the "average" driver doesn't maintain their vehicle meticulously & U joints & double cardans are overlooked even by the best. But owning a towing company & seeing mechanical failures daily... we maintain & inspect our trucks more often than most people buy gas. Grease is cheaper than parts... and unless you're running a built performance vehicle or racing with hard launches... or just driving like an idiot...then buy the solid joints. But maintained U joints rarely fail. Its also nice to flush out old grease thats been heat cycled & pump in fresh clean grease. Bottom line, if youre lazy, spend the money for the no maintenance joint... if youre a gearhead.. grease is your friend.

If my guys did not check and grease all joints when they did oil changes, they would not be working for me very long. I had one guy tell me he dose not do oil changes when he was working for me, it was his last day at my shop.

More videos please

Squeezing a little grease in a zerk is tremendous maintenance? Are you kidding? That is the easiest thing to do on a car aside from changing the air filter. 😂 the u joints in my 54 Willys Jeep are a minimum of 25 years old and may be older. I run them through sand, mud and water with no problem. A quick squirt of grease and they are good to go. I am also still running the original bendix joints in the front axle filled with gear oil with no issues. The moral of the story is I’ve never had to change a greasable u-joint. They have all been dried out crusty sealed joints. Both on my 05 dodge ram and the 99 Jeep Cherokee. I replace everything with greasable joints.

I don’t totally agree with this video info, n here is why. I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab 4x4 diesel. When I bought it used years ago it had the sealed universal. They failed because there where no grease fittings to keep the needle bearing greased. However, I agree with you in the sense the grease-able u-joints are weaker due to the canal throughout the universal joint. You can grease then though whenever you’d like with the grease able ones.

I got the repair kit you talked about @ 4:22 Centering Repair Kit 404-0A and the seal 2-86-418 but You never showed how to tear apart and fix with new parts.

Hola Nesecito iubicar y comprar todas las crucetas para cardan de dodge ram 2500....graciád

I'm looking at some of the fancy u joints now that have failed at 80,000 miles , and I'm putting greaseable type in 8 in total , new is not ! always better

Well done presentation. for the car guy you can get the greasable fitting and it will be fine. For the every day normal non car guy dip shit sealed is the better option . you know the guys who change oil when they change cars. the only thing they replace in the car is gas and windshield washer fluid in which half the time the idiot pours into the radiator by mistake.

The non greasable was also cross drilled so um... Really now...

Using a grease gun on a zirc fitting is the easiest thing ever. Tremendous is probably the wrong word. Marketable word for your end goal which is to sell your stuff but the wrong word overall.

A tremendous amount of maintenance 😂😂 a grease gun😂😂😂

Total BS! It does NOT take "incredible amount of time" to lubricate a u-joint. I takes a few minutes to do all of them. Literally. Also, 100,000 mi "out of assembly" can only be impressive by ford/chrysler/gm standard. My 2004 4Runner with 250,000+ mi of HARD rural service, towing, etc. has perfectly fine original u-joints. The idea that u-joint should be lubricated every time oil is changed is completely ridiculous as well. I occasionally - every 15-20,000 miles lubricate mine, and they do not complain. Bottom line: BUY SERVICEABLE U-JOINTS AND - AGAIN - OCCASIONALLY - LUBE THEM.