I have to agree with you but I had to plug the small hole in the main damper to gain full control of the stove burn. I recently also put tin foil over the secondary air intake mid way the top of the ash pan. as the stove, In high winds, was still not controllable enough and would burn too fast due to air being hauled in through the secondary intake. Now my stove burns in all wind conditions with full control and lasts 10 to 12 hours. I have another video up on the repair I did. I may do another showing how I had to block off the secondary air intake.

Thanks for dropping by again and for going into the details on your variety of wood burning and results. To cut to the chase on your question In the late evening before bedtime, I monitor the amount of wood I am burning and keep it to a minimum. I usually keep the wood one one side or the other of the stove and feed the wood one or two sticks at a time. When it is time for bed, I generally have a small amount of hot coals on one side of the stove. I use my poker to push the hot coasl tightly against the side. I then put my biggest wood on the opposite side in toward the middle until it touches the hot coasl. I then put a but smaller wood on the hot coals and then use the same smaller wood to fill any resonable cavity where a piece of wood could go. Once I have the stove filled. I shut the door and I shut off the draft completely. The stove will burn slowly at first but in about an hour or so it'll begin to burn more and move into the hotter cycle. Thankfully, the closed draft will limit the burn and the fire will last overnight and into the morning. When I get up, I just put in whatever wood I am happy with for the initial morning fire. I usually just use a couple of small pieces of wood. before I leave for the day, I do the same thing as before. Fill as much as I need until I get back an shut the draft. I typicaly only open and adjust the draft when i am home. It don't take long to get the glass washed and clean when I get home. I hope that information is helpful to you. Merry Christmas to you and yours.

@@Tobinindustrial and yet another excellent answer. Getting right to the point percisely what I was hoping for. The exact point where you close her up and close it down. I tried that some nights ago only to peek back in to see not much progress, prompting me to open the draft up, settling it back down to say, abit before the handle is squarely inline with the smallest round knock out of the 3 Drolet puts apparently so an individual so lost/helpless knows what it is( my opinion said individual is more dangerous that using gasoline to fire up a wood stove) lol Merry Christmas. Hope 2022 you win the countrys biggest lottery Man as the help youve given is priceless

@@johnserrano9689 Sorry for the late response John. YT blocked your comment for some reason. I found it in spam and allowed it. As for when you load it for the night, just be sure that you have about 10% - 15% hot coals and haul them to one side. Hardwood will take a while to gte going. She will start slow but in a couple of hours she'll be back in a moderate burn. if you have too little hot coals and your wood is not seasoned, it can smoulder all night. Wood hang up sometimes will cause a no burn issue but that rarely happens if you load the wood properly.

@@Tobinindustrial hey Man thanks for the reply, even after the hassle 👍 We had almost a full month of 0 to -21 then the wind which was fierce brought the "real feel" to -38 and lower more often than not. For our area that's not uncommon, but for the deep freeze like that for a month straight that's not the usual. So long story short I gained more time/experience with the Drolet. You were spot on, it really is far superior heater. The super dense hardwoods I've learned only 1-2 big splits with same count for Red Oak with some white Ash and Sugar Maple. Even with an excellent bed of coals not even raked aside or pulled front the Hop hornbeam wood is so dense it legitimately will not burn with the damper shut down. M.C is 14% average so it's ideal as it gets. Yet when mixed with softer hardwood like the Oak, Maple, Ask, black birch or even black cherry then I can choke the damper. Softer wood burns Down easier which then burns the Hophornbeam. I have found I do infact need to thermo disc and blower for it to maximize the heat she makes. I know it's not fair but one night for example it was -21f with a 30mph wind blowing at times, the house was 68 upstairs and 80 in the very big room the stoves in basically used as a mudroom. Using a small 8" cheap fan thats hinged inside housing so it'll point up or down, that little fan set on low keeps the house noticably warmer and more consistent. Without the blower to transfer the same exact heat but much more effective will make a big difference. Have you made any other modifications/changes or adapt any new practices or tools for or with the stove? I've had good luck loading the bottom north west, using about 5"-6" splits with a 2-3" gap between in the middle. Then 2nd layer east west and using my "book" splits about 3"-5" thick 16-20" long and maybe 11" average width, then a nice heavy "quarter round" split about 1/2"-1" away from the top burn tubes. The big 1/4 round split helps trap the air And secondaries burn much more effective. I then am able to turn the damper down the lowest. I also pack any small splits/pieces that'll fit in on the edges of the top row or bottom row. Drolet makes the most of that fuel and Burns as hot as needed keeping the house comfortable untill the sun comes back around. Another ramble, but atleast these rambles heat our house and our families 👍 happy New Year man

I have nothing to offer regarding the bistro but I an tell you that of you if have the proper pot or pan, you can effectively, bake, boil, fry and grill on this stove. No joke. You just got to be able to have a little faith. Well, it is easy enough to boil something or fry an egg in a pan on the Drolet. You can use a dutch oven and effectivly bake something on this Drolet. Now, as for grilling, if you really want to do that, here is just one simple way you can grill a steak or porkchop. I take a modest sliver of pork and while the stove is running good and hot, I take the pork and rub it on the place of the stove where I anm gonna do a steak or porkchop. After the area is well greased with pork fat. (You can just use a smidge of cookingoil as well) You can drop your seasoned steak or pork chop right on the stove and grill away. All the typical rules apply but it does not take a much ingenuity to come up with a way to cook. A tin can just inside the door onext to the coals under sealed pressure will warm up a can of beans in less than 1 minute. i promise. I put a slight dent in the can and then put it just inside the door and when that] dent pops out, your beans are warm. Also, tin foil wrap meats and veggies =cook on the hot coals well. I sometimes roast weiners on an open fire in mod february. It';s all about getting outside the box of what modern day appliances offer us. the shky is the limit my friend. you can cook anyting if you think aboiut it with any woodstove

Thank you for the comment. I have a few other videos on this stove that may be of interest to you. Happy New Year!

Yes, the door handle movs up and down slightly. The stove door, as iI remember, was a bit snug at first but eventually the gasket settled in a bit and it shuts perfectly now. A snug gasket seal is better than a door seal issue and an air leak.

okay thanks

Yes Fred, it is one of my little sanctuaries. I take nothing forgranted. I am looking forward to really putting this stove to use. Speaking of coco, now you got me craving for some. I might even add a few marsh mellows. Mmmmmm....

@@Tobinindustrial Now your talking. A quick Brandy shot and a rich Coco latte with marsh mellows :-)

Hey Shaun... Nice to hear from you. I burn generally local softwood which is fir, spruce and juniper. I cut my own wood although admittedly, I bought 6 cord of wood this year as i was too busy to cut wood last fall. I got to try the copper nails trick. Sounds like a cool Christmas ritual. I really love wood cutting. the only thing I don't like it putting it away for winter. I usually try and find some help with that so all the wood can get stored in one day and ready to be burned. Thanks for the comment Shaun. Hopefully we'll see another video from you in the near future.

I am burning 95% fir and spruce. With good hardwood the way I have the stove set up now (SEE OTHER VIDEOS) this stove could easily last well over 12 hours with a full load of hardwood seasoned. I'd say 3/4 of hardwood would be about 8 - 10 hours burn. This stove puts out lots of heat. I an here with windows and doors open most days. When I fully load the stove for the night I shut down the damper and it burns easily all night and I don't have to put wood in it in the morning most days. I certainly do not need a fan. My last stove was a Drolet Sahara which was around 80,000 BTU's. This stove is about 130,000 BTU's. No comparison my friend. This is a fierce and capable heating unit. The over drafting and secondary draft issues have been resolved and I am 100% happy with the control, burn time and heat this stove puts out. If you are cold in the winter with this stove, then you must have no roof on your house. When you open the draft this thing will dance and spew out loads of heat. as well. Very quick warm up time and usually always in the burn zone unless filled and shut down for the night.

@@Tobinindustrial good man I honestly really appreciate the reply. I believe me and the wife will be buying this stove. I am old school aswell which is why I still heat our house with our 1978 buck 27000 haha. I love it, and we own a good amount of land heavily wooded with hardwoods of northern Vermont not to mention the deere pulls and powers the splitter so my back has it easy. I have an unusual flue, shoots straight up 3' to a 90 then 7' out through a triple wall and thimble, then another 90 horizontal with a 1" pith per foot to a clean out "T" then straight up and out 16' with a wind cap. Needless to say the blaze king stove I wanted cannot breath through that run with such cold flu temps. This stove is the closest thing to our old school stoves we knew so we'll, yet be so clean and efficient. I saw your other video covering the other breather holes, did you close them both off? And you've had great response from doing that? No creosote issue, heat is the same and you gained run time? Secondary burn is unaffected I assume. Again I truly do appreciate your time, response and video man that's very good of you

@@johnserrano9689 Both primary draft hole and secondary air intake are completely blocked off now. This is just an EPA thing but in my setup I was overburning and the stove was not getting the bragged burn time. yes, a slower burn will mean more creosote but I maintain my stove and pipes as usual and that is not an issue. The stove still spews massive heat and the burn time is awesome. This is my only source of heat so it has to burn long and hard and the mods I did gives me full control. It was way too hot with the stove running wild on primary and secondary air intake. Now it is like an old school stove that you can fully control. My expect to have as more heat and heat time without burning as much wood. Now that is efficient to me. My burn season should be down to about 4 1/2 to 5 cord of seasoned wood. My last stove (SAHARA) was doing 5 - 5 1/2 cord. Prior to that the stove I had was burning 7 - 8 cord. Thanks for dropping by and leaving a comment. I am always happy to be helpful.

@@Tobinindustrial dam good job man. That's great to hear, last week I was looking at a pacific energy summit stove and I asked the guy who owns the stove shop if I could close off the small extra intake and he was honest telling me he didn't know if it would ruin the operation of the stove. There are no drolet dealers near us in Vermont, but doing my homework, research and true comparisons the ht3000 is the stove for us. Your experience first hand is most important, extremely important to me. I go into this fully expecting (once I get the feel of her operations) 10 HR burn times easily so I will not have to worry when I'm off at work and over night. If she starts running away on her own I am going to copy your doing. If I do need to block the intake which would you suggest closing off first?

@@johnserrano9689 The primary draft hole in the main damper is step one. the secondary air intake seems to make the stove run out of control in high winds. I wish they would incorporate a secondary draft on that but that may be confusing to some wood burning enthusiasts. the secondary air intake will only show it's true colors in higher winds (40 KM's and above) Also, my stove pipe goes straight up through the roof. It is about 5 feet of single wall 6 inch pipe and then into a 7 inch adapter to run into the 7 inch inside diameter insulated pipe. With your setup, you may have a little more control of the stove and it may not get out of control. You may need a good hot burn to warm up the chimney so that you get a good draw and no smoke bellowing into the room. It's all about chimney temperature for good exhaust and draw, air control and fuel (wood) A good balance of all this is key to happy burning. Let me know how you make out. Good luck.

You won't be disappointed. It is the best woodstove I have ever used. I have been burning wood for many years and my last woodstove was a Drolet Sahara. This HT3000 beats that awesome stove by a 1/4 mile. I had to make a couple of modifications to my HT3000 however. I documented it in videos. Maybe other people will not have the issues I had. Keep me posted on your install and how it works for you.

The 3000 is an upgrade to the 2000 for sure. I bought the 3000 because it is the flagship stove and generally has the best performance. I also like the draft below the door. I find the draft on top can become a play toy for kids as it is really obvious in that position. I am sure the 2000 is just as capable but I have always bought the top stove on the market form Drolet and that is my reason for choosing the 3000 really. I don't recall anything else that would have steered me away from the 2000.

No, the bricks are still in perfect shape. If you go on drolet website, you can see the pdf layout of the bricks and the sizes are listed in the charts. I replaced many a brick in woodstoves and the best way to do it, if you are worried is to do a video of the removal or take photos. The pdf will be a great help as it shows how the bricks go in. You can resize bricks by using a tile saw. There are different size bricks on the market as well so be sure to see which ones you will need and what ones you can use to resize to fit.

we ended up buying it, it came with the ash try inside of the firebox with the manual in plastic, it also has a slim thing thats like 18 inchs long im not sure what its for and also there a steel looking bracket in the fire box just placed in there did you have these parts and did you know what they are for?@@Tobinindustrial

You could be right. I'll remove mine and see what it looks like. It will b easier to clean that way for sure.

Trust me, you will love it! Those screws are in there pretty tight. Don’t be discouraged if they are difficult to takeoff. I think the factory paint job sort of acted like glue holding those screws in. Just need to spray where the plate was as it’s unpainted underneath. A little black high heat paint will do the trick.

@@understew Mine came out real easy. I am going to consult with my wife and see if she prefers the non-grill look. Thanks so much.

Absolutely... I load the stove at about 11:30 PM and I get up at about 6:30 AM and don't have to put wood in the stove at all. It will burn easily for 10 hours and more based on the modifications I did to the primary and secondary air intake. I can safely say you will get 10 hours burn and still have lots of hot coals. Again, my modifications have made a big difference. Refer to my other videos for more information.

@@Tobinindustrial that is precisely what I was attempting to convey in my questions. Thank you again. And with the mods you have done the secondary or re-burning is totally unaffected?

@@johnserrano9689 Be sure to fully test your stove before considering any of the mods I did. Your chimney setup is likely much different than mine and so you may have totally different burn results. All the best and good luck. This stove blows my Drolet Sahara out of the water and I really found the Sahara was a great stove so you can see I am very pleased with the HT 3000. I think I could melt the paint off the walls here. If I ran it wide open I would have to take the roof off the house to be comfortable... LOL. I am looking forward to seeing how it performs in the heart of the winter when minus 20c can be reached and odd days can be down to minus 30c with the wind chill or more.

@@Tobinindustrial that's more like it lol a month ago the wife wanted a new stove but me not so much, so I can burn a little wetter wood if needed. Then I find out the burn times are twice as long, flue is going to be 95% cleaner, and with a little one on the way I feel as tho it'll be much safer especially when I am not home for 8 to 10hrs working. Luckily she is working from home since trump is the greatest failure we have ever had and covid is unfortunately flowing like piss from a bars bathroom. I will be looking forward to a night of 30 below zero again to hump the ht3000 after we get it finally. Couldn't of made up my mind without your input man I mean it, thank you again and stay safe. Take care

@@johnserrano9689 Keep me posted on how you make out. I say you will be a happy camper. (Wood Burner)

It was generally moved with a well built old fashioned dolly that I borrowed from Home Hardware where I bought the stove. Once I got it home, I used the dolly to take it off the truck unto the step of the house. I then removed the pallet and other materials from the stove. The stove is about 520 lbs so I recommend using a dolly that can handle that weight. I believe the old shop dolly we used could handle 1000 lbs or more. It had solid rubber tires and was well constructed and welded. I suggest to buy or borrow a good industrial dolly. Perhaps the shop will let you borrow one. Some stores will do delivery to your address if it is close. That was not an option for me. Perhaps a loan of a good dolly can be a condition of purchase. The shop owner suggested I borrow it so that was a great idea on his part. The stove is just wide enough to go through a common sized 32 inch door. I didn't even need to remove the doors for this. Two people handling the dolly and stove is a good idea as one person leans the stove into the dolly while the other holds and slowly leans the dolly back. I put the stove near where it was going and then removed my old stove using the same dolly. I replaced my hearth at the same time so when that was put in place, I used a thick piece of plywood about 3 feet wide and 3 feet long as a ramp to step up to my newly built hearth. I also put two piece of lumber on the hearth where the dolly wheels would come off the ramp and unto the hearth. I did this to reduce the chances of cracking the ceramic tiles I put on my hearth. With two people again we got the stove back on the dolly and gently rolled it up the ramp and made sure then boards were aligned with the dolly tires and rolled the stove up unto the hearth. Once it was near the proper position, we lowered the dolly back down so that the stove sat on these two boards. We removed the dolly completely and then as I lifted one side the stove, the other person removed the board from the hearth and then did the same with the other side. Now that the stove was very close to the proper position, I took some measurements to determine exactly where it needed to go. From there you gently slide the stove left or right, front or back to align it for proper positioning. Once in position it was just a matter of hooking up the pipes. Good luck and just take your time. Solicit good help and be cautious. Think things through carefully. It is a heavy stove so it can do a lot of damage to a person or property.

@@Tobinindustrial Thanks for taking the time to explain how you did it. Today Home Hardware delivered the HT3000 right into the living room. They had to uncrate it because my porch door frame is only 31" wide and the crate was 31.5". The dolly had hard plastic castors so I put sheets of wood down on the floor so it wasn't damaged. (The floors are spruce). Also, they took out the bricks and ash drawer to make it a little lighter. The stove is now a few feet away from where it will be installed. I think the WETT certified guy is going to install it in the corner through an exterior wall. We do have an old chimney chute going up the middle of the house that was used for a cook stove years ago. But the guy thinks the exterior wall would be preferable. When we got a new roof a few years ago the exterior part of the chimney was removed so maybe that's put him off. Maybe cleaning the pipe will be easier with the exterior installation I think. The house is a full 2 stories plus an attic so it would be really scary for someone to go up on the steep roof every year.

@@DarleneYoungartist Wow, you are going to have a real high chimney it sounds like. Hopefully you won't have too much draft. Also, with real long chimney runs, the stack (pipe) can be pretty cold especially if the main run is all outside. This means you may need to open the stove door for a while in order to let some heat warm up the pipe. The alternative is to use some sort of hair dryer or heater in the stove to warm up the pipes. Lastly, A good kindling fire with the door cracked open may draft upwards easy enough and warm up your pipes. Cold pipes can cause a reverse effect when lighting a fire and smoke will bellow out the door until it warms up enough to get the flow going out. The WETT guy may have this all figured out. It would be good to ask some questions on that. Also, if there is too much draft when the stove is running it will burn faster. Keys in the pipe is one way to slow the stove down but may be against insurance and fire regulations to use such a device. It is not allowed here anymore I know that Anyway, not to freak you out but it is good to know what can be expected and incorporate things to ensure the stove works properly the first time is the key. Good luck with the install. Let me know how it all works out. God bless you and yours.

@@Tobinindustrial Thanks for the advice. They decided it would be better to remove the bricks from the old chimney and use the chute to run a brand new chimney up through. It runs up through the center of the house and through the roof. They took out 2100lbs of bricks. Now they just have to put down an emberpad and hook up the Drolet HT3000 woodstove. The guy wanted to install a freshair kit but my husband says the manual says its optional and for using in trailers. Anyway the guys needed a rest after all that heavy work. They'll come back later this week to finish. We still have to wait for the city inspector to give the okay before we light it up. It should be a very strong draft....hopefully not too much.

@@DarleneYoungartist Your stack will be warmer than an outside stack and that is a positive. A hot chimney will draw better. As you may have noticed. When a stove is just being lit or low burning, when you open the door fast smoke spills out into the room. That's why a warm stack (Chimney) has a faster heating time and will draw better faster. I think you'll be happy with this stove. It belts out loads of heat. If you have too much draft, then watch my mod videos. You may be fine with the stove as is but at least you may have options. The fresh air intake is optional and definitely for a real tightly sealed trailer situation. even then, it is hard to say if it is needed. Good luck and happy wood heating to you. God bless you.

It's an impressive stove. Let me know how you make out. I made a couple of videos on some issues I had but after a couple of small tweaks,it is working fine now.

Thank you I’ll be looking for those videos be safe God bless

@@robertgonzalez8419 God bless you too brother.

Just curious where are you located

@@robertgonzalez8419 Western Newfoundland Canada. A place called Shallop Cove in the town of St. George's.

You will love it. C"mon winter

@@Tobinindustrial I have 2000 sq ft with single pane windows with terrible insulation. I am counting on this baby to keep us warm. $1349.00 canadian on sale at the local hardware store. I couldn't believe my eyes. Everyone else sells them for 2,000. Thanks for making a video, I will keep an eye out for how my setup drafts

@@Greg5D This will certainly put out the heat. If your home is open concept, it will do really well especially if you keep the seasoned wood in her and the draft cracked a bit. I had to modify mine to block off the main vent as it has a small round hole to allow too much air intake for me. It was just running too hot for me and I had to slow her down. You may do perfect with the main draft hole left in tact. I get plenty of heat and a longer burn time with the hole covered up. I don't recommend you plug the hole unless you deem it necessary. I did a video on the main draft hole and the secondary air intake.

@@Tobinindustrial I have 13 or 14 cords of seasoned hardwood. My heating period will likely be from sept to April where November to March will be constant use. My stove isn't installed yet but I am eager to see how she does(she is still on my trailer). I don't understand the reason for the larger circular draft hole and I really like the idea of controlling the flames. You show it quite well in the video. Do you leave your draft closed in peak burning months or slightly open? I am pluging in my setup into a masonry chimney used for the main 80 year old wood furnace in the basement. That old girl is heading to retirement with her modest 2 cords per hour efficiency lol.

@@Greg5D I typically crack my draft in the day but close it off at night. Seasoned hardwood will have a higher BTU rating so you will do well with that. My fuel is fir and spruce mostly. Your only unknown right now is how well the stove will vent through the old chimney. If it becomes uncontrollable, you may have to line the chimney with a steel liner. Also, the more elbows you have will add a bit of flow restriction. They recommend a maximum of two 90 degree connections in a typical stove piping system. I believe that all insurance companies will not accept pipe keys but that is a great way to regulate your exhaust venting especially in windy weather.

Yep, pretty much. We have are hardwoods but it is much easier to find groves of softwood. My ultimate best softwood for burning the the black bog spruce. It is almost dry enough to burn off the stump and it is a solid core wood that gives good heat and lasts a long time in the wood stove.