Repent to Jesus Christ “Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you.” ‭‭1 Peter‬ ‭5‬:‭7‬ ‭NIV‬‬ hg

That would have been good to see as well. But we know, that mix cement is stronger.

​@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 Mama says unmixed concrete is the DEVIL! - Bobbie Bouche

And would have been nice to see at least a 30 day cure break? for actual strength, even mixed would beak easy 24 hour break. I may dry poor some cylinder's and have the QC at work do a break test and see the PSI verses mixed.

Same here, the first thought that popped into my head.

Good idea. I might try that. Thanks.

How thick did you lay the concrete base?

I’m about to dry pour a patio👍🏽

1 inch? Thats very shallow is not it?

And that will be a real accurate scientific test... The one that scored the best in the test here should go for four samples... Then strength tested reveal one by one at one, two, three and four week apart.... And if done along side regular wet pour then that will be accurate... And even more accurate if strength tested using a press. So smaller 1x1 pours should be enough. That shall give you viral status!!!

This has been the big question in my mind, too. After 2 weeks of cur'age, with extra soaks in between, what's the internal composition like?

I like your 💡 idea

Yes, and also one wet pour, to see if there's a difference.

I thought the same it would take way longer to soak up moisture in the middle so would need more time to cure

no need.. the strength from concrete comes from mixing.. if i look at my local producer they have investigated how long time is perfect. to much or to little makes the concrete weak

Repent to Jesus Christ “Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you.” ‭‭1 Peter‬ ‭5‬:‭7‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Also add in a control of mixed wet cement.

​​@@Hansen710strength of concrete comes from chemical reaction, cement and water content (less water -stronger concrete). Mixing time has nothing to do with strength. Mixing trucks drive to different locations and different time, while mixing concrete by the way they go. And sometimes waiting in line to pour out the concrete

I came to say the same. 24 hrs to test this is too little. Doing a control of wet mix, then for the dry do all wetting for more soaks, then to a 24 hr, 48 hr, 5 day, 15 day, and 30 day. In big projects we can add an accelerator to be able to walk in a slab the same day to get control joints in, but if we are going to do a crack test it’s going to need more than 24 hrs. The dry pour world has my curiosity, it would be a game changer for the average person to be able to achieve hardscape goals without breaking the bank. As long as it wasn’t vehicle traffic it may be the best solution with the pricing we are currently getting in the market.

Water does increase strength to a point. Most commercial 80lb mix bags require a gallon of water for the mix...... and no evaporation..... Misting with 25' long 3/8" garden hose using a water conserving nozzle is going to take a little while to get a gallon of water into the mix, and keep it in there. I think most people underestimate how much water they need. Alot of the commercial bag mixes encourage wetting of your base if you read the bag or the data sheet.

What is the time frame between initial moisture and when you would submerge them?

True. My stepfather made poured the cement around swimming pools and I asked him why they were covered with plastic for so long. A: To keep people from walking on them, not from the rain. He showed me how they pull up the plastic and re-wet the concrete daily. The plastic was to keep the water IN under the hot sun. #NoCracks

Still have to be careful adding water. Especially if you're after a desired slump

That is really interesting. I'd like to learn about the science of why that would be so.

being the cheap, code breaking hooligan that I am. I wanted a driveway/ parking spot for my truck. So I did a drypour, but I had my spouse mist it the entire time I was pouring/spreading the mix out in the form so this way it got pretty good moisture in the mix. Then hosed the crap outta it few hours later. Then left it alone for 30 days. Hasnt cracked yet on me, but the surface has chipped abit, but I didnt care if it looks nice, my lawncare trucks that drip every fluid like a stuck pig and any other weird projects I come up with are on it, so its stained up bad anyways. But its held up the last few years.

I've always done my smaller slabs by mixing in a wheelbarrow with a shovel.

Wow. Are you parking a half-ton on it? How thick is it? And what State/climate are you in? Thanks!

Repent to Jesus Christ “Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you.” ‭‭1 Peter‬ ‭5‬:‭7‬ ‭NIV‬‬ ht

This method will absolutely fail, especially in a sidewalk. Mix the proper amount of water in the concrete. Yes, you can pour the concrete in the forms, but you need to leave some room for the water displacement, and be sure to mix/stir it enough to get all of the dry concrete wet and also allow the air to rise to the top.

@@jmackinjersey1 You couldnt be more wrong, I have a 40 yard sidewalk made of bags, didnt even open the bags, just kept them wet for 30 days. All put on the ground during a period of year for the highest forecast of rain. Theyve been their now since 2013. Theyve seen hot sun and -22F in the winter.

@@DarkLinkAD bet that looks good. 👌

@@jaxturner7288 Yup, I live deep in the woods and it looks like a smooth stone, if you want it rectangular and flat, you could literally shape it in the bag. But I prefer stones that can be moves if I want to redesign a walkway.

Cajun Country Livin' (the KZfaq channel) estimates a 50% drop in psi using the dry pour method. They have driven their Ford F250 onto a dry pour slab, and the slab held. However, I would not use this method to pour a house foundation or any slab, especially a driveway, in which a very heavy vehicle (e.g., ten-wheel dump truck) might drive upon.😮

allborg portland for example can pretty much tell you that i wonder if these youtubers even read the info that is on the products, before they ask 🤣 monkey see monkey do 🤫 there are rules for mixing so the strengh becomes best.. and producers have done testing with almost no mixing you will see that it makes a sandbox pretty much, if you dont mix the correct amount of time.. to much mixing will also make it weak

Looks like 3 PSI after this test so multiply that by 30.

Practical engineering did some psi tests with concrete, from very little water to too much water. Too much water is about the same as dry, not good.

This is the shittiest concrete I've ever seen broken- spent 15 years as a new construction plumber that had to break a lot of fresh slabs to put pipes back in the wall on a regular basis.

​@@henryknox4511 seen comments in another "dry pour" video. Guy was talking about dry pouring a garage with lood bearing footings with rebar and everything. Lol

@@Mad-A Dry pour just means too lazy to do it right. That concrete is garbage.

@@henryknox4511 I use to pour concrete professionally for over 10 years. These videos Make me cringe. Good enough for a sidewalk but not anything else.

Because they don't want to prove that this method here is absolutely the Wrong method of pouring concrete.

Good tip, big jobs or a small one? like can you do it with crawlspace rat slab (3" thick or so?)

Yes that is how I do it. You can't finish the surface properly doing the way shown. You need to bring the 'cream' up to the surface to got a very hard cement rich material to the surface. For some things this doesn't matter. But if you do as you and I do it, you still have a wet surface to finish properly.

Thinking about doing a 100 sq ft job. Think it’ll work/hold in the long run? A 300lb gazebo will be sitting on it.

If it truly worked well, it would be done like this commercially. Given the water becomes part of the concrete as part of the chemical reaction, you're really just wasting money half-assing it this way. Even worse if your a contractor doing this to your customers.

@@dannyboii_reps Remember to add load for any gazebo occupants.

Using a trowel on properly wetted and mixed concrete will make a smooth surface when it dries. But if it is a sidewalk, you don't want it too smooth, as it can become slippery when it is wet.

in theory you could still lay rebar with a dry pour.

@@jonathanlees8017 I agree with you! And even doing walkways around the house or pads for sheds epoxy wire would work great. If I was doing a drive way or parking pad 4 inches deep I would use both!

VERY WELL PUT! Thats exactly how I feel! My favorite comment of the day for sure ☺️👍🏻

Please inform me of the situation where not properly mixing concrete for a poured slab is an acceptable practice? (when I say acceptable, I mean proper- not "Im too lazy so lets do the bare minimum") This attitude is why everything in the world has gone to sh*t lol. It takes less than 5 min to mix up a 50 lb bag of concrete in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it if you just roll it back and forth on the ground.

@@henryknox4511 Many years ago I saw a video where a person used this technique to make a border for their lawn. He poured out the dry mix along in a little ditch he dug and then placed irregular stones on top, then misted it all like in this video. I think for that purpose it was probably sufficient since it wasn't being walked on and a lot faster then mixing up so many bags and then trying to get the wet mixture in a gently curved and sloping line. But I haven't actually done it so I don't know for sure. Just wanted to share another place this might be used.

@@jwrightgardening Nothing wrong with that, I wouldn't expect it to last too long with sprinklers running and rain etc...but that isn't a slab or even flatwork. The guys that lay border curbing usually use an extruder or at bare minimum they properly trowel the work so it seals and doesn't crumble apart in 5 years. Innocent DIY youtubers will watch this and think it's a good idea to use this method for their own shed, garage, or sidewalk pour- which it's not, it's pathetic and lazy.

@@henryknox4511 Now mix 30 80lb bags one after another and see how easy it is to put down and keep up with it on a slab.

I hear ya! I’m wanting to pour a foundation for a lean too I’m adding to the new shed so I really can’t wait to see haha

@@MichaelBuilds for the record, your videos are giving me MASSIVE amounts of helpful guidance in my ideas, steps to consider, and costs to factor! You're one of the most helpful people doing these projects on KZfaq

@@joshuagorrell9235 I can’t tell you how much that means to me man! THANK YOU SO MUCH! ☺️💪🏻👍🏻

don't cut corners. if this worked then manufacturers would be recommending it.

You’re pouring a patio? You want that to last for life. You won’t regret renting a mixer to do it right

You think right

That's one of the issues, although even the pre-cast concrete industry uses dry-pour to make some components. But a homeowner might use the mix ratio on the bag to get the same amount of water into the dry-pour. Let's say a gallon per bag of mix. Okay, so long as you get the same gallon of water into the dry-pour by the end of the 'watering cycle' (maybe using a pump-tank sprayer to measure out the gallon), that might help the dry-mix absorb and cure properly.

Concrete naturally porous. It would eventually get enough water. But I still wouldn't do it this way.

Absolutely! There just so many ways we could take this haha

I'll be doing some tests too, hopefully soon. But I'm going to test wet mix against dry pour and after 28 days of cure time, watering it well during that time

@@jakefriesenjake also test the structural value of finished concrete vs set concrete.. we do a lot of work to finish concrete.. because we believe it makes it stronger.. prove it please?

I dry poured a post in 1984 for our electrical service, the post still hasn't shifted an inch, after 8-10 hurricanes.

Lol things have changed

I seen concrete fail faster.

(I found this on another site written by a civil engineer. It may help you achieve better results.) @mikehewitt1253 1 month ago (edited) Dear all, let me try to help everyone understand concrete. The cement part of any mortar or concrete reacts with water in a hydraulic chemical reaction (exothermic reaction i.e. generates heat). When thoroughly cured, meaning allowing enough time for this reaction to take place and preferably throughout all the cement particles where they become irreversibly hardened and water proof. However, cement on it's own will shrink significantly and crack all over so it needs a binder - sand - this 'stretches' the cement through the mix so when it hardens via Curing it's bonded to lot's of already hard sand particles and more cement particles alike creating a hard material that doesn't crack - mortar. However 😁 mortar is not strong in itself. For strength we add Aggregate, ideally for strength you want some flat, some irregular stones (not pebble like) of 3 sizes - pea size, golf ball size and halfway between those - giving us Concrete when Cured throughout. Now, I've watched many dry pour vids with interest and listened to the nay sayers saying it has to be WET to cure and therefore dry pour is nonsense......... Time for education folks where (after that which I have outlined above) you will be surprised that I'm on the side of dry pour ....... SORT OF...... When dry pouring, it is tamped thoroughly down before spraying - this is GOOD - but cement particles and sand particles and aggregate elements throughout will not all receive moisture, will not Cure and will remain as dust in parts - not good. BUT Wet is not great either! It's CONVENIENT. The best, strongest concrete is Mechanical Concrete which is made with JUST ENOUGH water to provide moisture throughout for correct curing. The test is - grab a small fist full, squeeze hard together in palm of hand and if doesn't hold shape and crumbles when released from pressure, needs more moisture. The shape should Break cleanly in two pieces without crumbling - if stretches in the break test, it's too wet. So my recommendation to all is........ Dry pour mix thoroughly together with rake, add moisture by spraying so as not to over-wet BUT rake that moisture throughout and THEN Tamp down hard compacting it all properly and level off. All this 24 hrs later stuff is inadequate - Minimum curing time is a month - covered to keep that minimum moisture in the mixed pad, base, driveway, - shouldn't be touched, don't go near it - best of both worlds here as easy as Dry Pour and stronger than the normal convenient Wet stuff which because of too much moisture cannot be as compacted and consolidated to provide the same strength. Go Mechanical guys, it's the best. Anyone want to hear my views on Earthcrete, which I find fascinating - by the way - I'm a Civil Engineer - spent an entire year studying Concrete - an entire bloody year on nothing but concrete. PS DON'T use quickset anything, you won't have enough time for all rake work, use standard Portland.

I think what you'd get is runoff; the mix won't be able to take that much water all at once. While the mixes absorb water, too much at once won't work in the dry-pour foundation molds.

well just take the process and divide the times by how much faster the rapidset is supposed to work at least.

Hmmm could you mist in-between pouring dry then on top?

thats what happens when you dont follow the mixing instructiuons that are needed to get the strength of the product not matter what this would be weak and falling apart quick the strengh from concrete comes from mixing it the perfect time.. producers have all the info needed

He's trying to make sure he's following the instructions given by the original YT posters on this subject. Once you start varying the process, you introduce too many variables.

Thank you Geoff!

Haha 😂

I know, I really wish I would have done that but I forgot haha

Just wait till we do the 4’x4’ slab haha. That’s the one I’m itchin to crack open lol

Cajun County Living reviewed their's after a yr...

@@leahrowe847 Thanks I'll check them out!

Dry pour fanboys know better. 👊

Senseless to test after 24 hours, no one claims the method is ready for heavy traffic then. The @Country Living couple even says they estimate the dry pour method loses up to 50% of the strength, even after a couple of months of curing. So, *DON'T* use dry pour for any foundation work, *DON'T* use it for driveways, and *DON'T* use it anyplace where it might be under excess stress.

@@xenaguy01 As I understand it, concrete (wet pour) gets stronger over the long term (years). I must have missed the videos that refer to dry pour losing strength over time. Actually, I didn't think there were any vids of a long term nature yet. Even the recent one by @Country Living of checking out the chicken coop didn't discuss any loss of strength. Can you reference your comments by any civil engineering study or even any YT over several months? I haven't seen one yet. Maybe, I'll have to do a formal comparison using ASTM standards. But I'm not a KZfaq personality nor have the figure to be one!

@@inqonthat1463 My mistake, I didn't mean to imply dry pour concrete loses strength with time. Exactly the opposite happens. Dry pour concrete, like wet pour, strengthens over time, but only to 50-70% the strength of "normal" (wet pour) concrete.

He talks about this in the end.

I’m glad I could help! ☺️👍🏻

I'm guessing you didn't watch the whole video, otherwise you would know that he addressed that and in 2 more weeks he'll do the same with the dry pour slab that he poured 2 weeks ago.

That's "loose and moist".😅😅

😆

@@bomejoe haha true

All over the internet for failure. It is the absolute wrong method.

@@jmackinjersey1 why tho?

That’s awesome David! Welcome to the channel!!!

That’s a good idea. One of the big channels that do these claim they don’t water the ground because they don’t want water to wick up to the surface before they put the brush finish on the powder. I don’t think it would be able to wick up that far after watching this experiment.