Thanks Sam

Thanks Sam

Thanks Sam

I like the plate warmer setting. Mine does not have this. And with steam coming off-indicates moisture. Good info, Sam

George Thank you for watching Sam

Thanks Sam

Thanks Marty

Glad to here you did the jam chuck. Sam

Scott, you can sure dry a bowl this big, I just rarely do that. I don't have a set formula for "time set" for actually drying with the microwave running vs resting time. I usually run the microwave for 2-4 minutes at a time. I finally got a nice microwave I can set the power to a certain percentage. I usually do it at around 60%. Mainly I do 3 or 4 cycles with a few minutes resting between----then....I let the piece completely cool down. I don't want to get the wood too hot. It will start to steam a lot if it is too hot. Just watch it closely till you figure our a good process for you. Sam

@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER wow Sam. Thanks a ton for the info! I’m trying to be careful and actually effective, so taking it a bit slow and see if I can. I really appreciate the info and the reply!

I just fold the disk in half and cut it with a pair of scissors. A real good Idea that I have not tried is to use a hole saw---the kind you use in a drill for doorknobs----grind the teeth off and make a knife edge and just hold the hole saw against the paper and it slices out a disk. I need to do that ...sam

+Art Gerst I have no set time. Just hit and miss or when I walk by the microwave I turn it on for a while. I just got another on with a proper dial and readout with a digital display. So I can be more scientific. I just try to let the wood cool off each time. Sam

Here is a link to my light bulb kiln video.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kJZpq7h_rLrHl2g.html It has an incandescent bulb in it. It creates perhaps 100-105º. I would leave stuff in there for days and overnight as well. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Sam

Scott I do nothing too scientific. I generally put something in my microwave in my shop and crank it up a little every time I walk by. It may take a day or two to dry something. The first thing I do is monitor the wood till it starts to stem a little. Then once it is that hot, I keep it fairly warm to hot but let it cool off once in a while then check the weight. My microwave only has a dial with no good readout. So I don't keep it going for too long at any time. Sam

+Bill Wells Yep, we better no go there, huh? I am fortunate to have a fairly nice microwave in the shop. Thanks Sam

When I mentioned I wanted a microwave for the shop she told me to just use the one in the house... she's an odd one

Bill Wells mm

You are welcome

+Yuval Yeoman I have never used it. I use an Artisan product from Craft Supply USA just called Wood Sealer Sam

First, I would get a 5/8" bowl gouge. You could turn bowls with just this one tool. Next, maybe a scraper. There are always some tools that would be nice to have. Smaller parting tools for making a tenon and things like that.... Sam

Thank you for your reply! Cheers :^)

Fuark m8 9k n

Gary I don't use the microwave for anything larger than a lidded box or a small bowl. I have two scales. One has a dial scale (not digital) and it goes up to a pound. The other one is a $15 digital scale but it only goes up to 3 or 4 ounces. Too small for most stuff. I get most of my stuff off Amazon or Ebay. These places will be the least expensive stuff. For MOST of the stuff I turn, I don't bother weighing it. I look for movement in the wood-and if it has stopped moving. Hope this helps. Sam

Yes Sam Thanks very helpful

I have a really old microwave. It does not have any power settings. Not sure how to advise on this.

+Seth Warner Yes, exactly. The thinner portion of the wall, typically closer to the rim, will dry out sooner and begin to crack because the thicker area is still a little wetter and not dry. It is important in my climate to seal the wood and let it dry slowly. Sam

Sheila I love to inlay materials into my bowls: turquoise, brass, even sawdust of various colors. I have no experience with polymer clay. So I need to ask: Do you need to glue it in? Will it stick into a groove or recess by itself with no help from glue? What I use for a "medium" for the material I am inlaying is epoxy or CA glue. These types of glue will hold the colored material AND make it stick to the wood. Sorry I just don't know about the clay. Sam

Thanks for the info. I will check it out. Sam

Sorry, Allen Bradley? What is that? Sam

Thanks N Tatic.... I suppose there are a few thousand turners out there who are using a microwave to dry turned items successfully. Yes, to dry wood the drying process needs to be slowed down. When I use the microwave to dry small objects I usually run the microwave for no more than 30 seconds. Then let it cool down. I repeat 15 to 25 times till the wood stops losing weight (water) when weighed. I can dry a bowl in 2 or 3 days. If I put it in a box with shavings, t would take weeks. Thanks Sam

Russell At 5:10 I am coring with the Kel McNaughton Center saver system. Is that the one you were looking at? Sam

WYOMINGWOODTURNER Yep, that's the one. Thank you!

I agree about switching to a kiln of some sort. Sam

bfmcarparts Last

Use a pencil and record the weights on the bottom of each piece. Simple and you can't lose track.

Jayce My bandsaw only has one speed. I am not sure what the RPMs are. Sam

Voreios Thanks for watching my video. If you turn a bowl, you can rough turn it and let it dry.....and finish it after it has dried. With a ball, the center cannot dry out as fast as the outside. But you can't "rough turn" it like a bowl since it is solidYou just have to turn the wood and seal it-maybe with an oil. Then hope for the best. Some woods will not split as badly as others. I have had good luck with Linden or Basswood. Just try a small sphere and let it sit and see if it splits. Sam

WYOMINGWOODTURNER tnx sam i try :)

OK, I am not sure if this is in total context but here goes. When I use the microwave it is after all of the turning as been done to a point. So I begin microwaving it and continue until the piece no longer loses weight. THEN if I need to, I will put the piece back on the lathe and true it up. And at this point it should not lose any more water. Sam

Fair enough Sam, I read your video incorrectly. I apologise. Carry on your good work. Bendith i chi!

Mick King I have had this smock for at least 10 years. I am pretty sure I got it at craft supplies. It actually looks pretty clean in this video. It’s really trashed now lots of gunk on it ha ha

Laura It is difficult to get into turning for less than $1000-$1500 (in my opinion). You can get a lathe for around $500 or $600 but with all the tools and other accessories, it can be an additional 500 or 600 dollars. So it is not cheap. There are some smaller lathes that are fairly inexpensive, like $250 or $300. These less expensive lathes will not be variable speed or have reverse. Nice features. Sam

I had a set of woodturning tools that were about 30+ years old and so decided to give turning a try and by spending little money so as to decide if I enjoyed it (and could actually get some reasonable results) I would invest in a lathe with features Sam mentions. I bought a mini lathe during sales period for £120 (from Rutlands in UK) after studying various reviews. Its made in China as most are these days and so far seems to work ok (although as I am learning I think it might not be as accurate as the more expensive ones, but does the job to learn). I had an old book on turning and started experimenting initially by sort of poking the chisels and gouges into some old round hand rails I had lying around, (I was too scared to try rounding square pieces when I started). I managed to get some shapes and although scary at times (lots of catches) it was fun. I realised I needed some lessons, but nothing available where I live here in Greece and so started learning much more from Sam and many other generous turners who share their skills and time with us. Which has enabled me to make some rather pleasing items till now and more each day as I try to copy what Sam (and others) show us. I saw on internet sets of tools similar to my set for about £80 (probably better than mine), so for about £200 I got started. But then comes the learning process of sharpening your tools and so back to You Tube to learn more. I have made jigs (which you can copy from videos) to use on an old very cheap grinder I had and again on an old belt sander (copy of Robert Sorby's sharpening system) which didn't even have a working motor and I just drive it with an old electric drill. Apart from buying a fine zircon belt, everything comes from scraps and bits lying around my garage/workshop. (I note locally you can buy a little belt and wheel grinder for Euro 60 which would work just fine with some home made jigs if you can't get your hands on an old belt sander). So for for less than £250 you can get started and get results. If you live in USA everything is ever so much cheaper than UK or EU so you could probably get started on your budget (but don't buy the very very cheap chisels/gouges, better to get high speed. Read the reviews on Amazon and elsewhere). You can even make some of your own tools. My first roughing gouge was a stainless steel pipe that I sharpened the rim and works pretty good. Since then I have made other tools out of steel bar and turned handles for them. Some have ss or carbide cutting tips which just screw on the end. Very cheap to make and work well. So I encourage you to try. If you don't enjoy turning you have not invested too much and if, like me, you enjoy, you can add to your collection of tools as I did. I also bought a chuck that I can use on my next Lathe when I decide to get something better. So give it a try and good luck. Regards/George

George!!!! What a surprise to read your response to my ancient query! Great information and advice. A while back, there were municipal tree cutters doing their thing in my neighborhood. I was lucky enough to pick up a few interesting looking green oak sections to play with using bits, cutters, hand strength, a burr or two, and imagination. Result was half cut out "bowl" thing with twiggy handle sticking out from side. I left bark on, smoothing that out a bit, and removed about 1/2" off bottom edge cause some was already damaged by tree trimmers. The inside was carved out using several things, acorn bits, spade bit, drills, whatever I could find that still had a decent edge left. Unfortunately, I only made it about halfway down interior before father time stepped in and turned by green oak into concrete. None of my sharp things worked too well after that. I still have it, I enjoy it shape and texture, so it always be my first attempt at bowl making. Proof that I tried. Right now, I am trying to convert a nice short posted twin bed frame into 4 poster canopy bed. The posts have removable carved finials that just screw into the post. They attach with those metal screw in screw things (now, isn't that the clearest description God only knows what you've ever read??)so attaching longer posts will be simple. I bought long, large round dowls and will cut for height, insert the screwy screw things, stain, seal, twist on and viola, 4 poster canopy from a sow's ear. I've drawn and removed wood from sections of dowel as decorative touches. No lathe here, though, just a good eye, patience, and the mighty dremel tool. I enjoy transforming wood but improvement comes with every project. As do you, I am a scavenger of my cast off tools for other uses. Imagination leads to innovation, and before you realize it, you have a pyramid, or, you're on your way to the moon. As I continue mistreating beautiful wood, I get closer to the lathe, at least in my imagination. You may see an email or 2 asking for advice occasionally.. Is that OK? In Greece, What types of wood species do you have for woodworking? Do you buy it from a supplier or go out and collect it yourself? My coffee pot is calling my name. Thanks for the note, you have made my day, George!

Laura Cullen I see that (like me) you enjoy and appreciate turning a lump of wood or a sow's ear into something useful or beautiful. It's very satisfying isn't it. I very very rarely buy any wood and rather pick up old discarded furniture or pallets left for garbage collection. I have a bad habit of never throwing anything away as always seems to come in useful (the 30+ year old belt sander without motor for example) and my friends keep an eye open for discarded wood they collect for me. Since starting turning (about 3/4 months now) my friends also bring me small logs they have found. In return they bring me old furniture to repair (legs dropped off chairs etc, nothing too difficult). I don't know of any woodturners here in Athens, but I guess there must be some. No classes or woodturning clubs as far as I know. So its all down to watching videos and experimenting. There is pine, poplar, plane, mullberry, lemon and orange trees and most interesting olive trees here in greece (I guess there must be more, but most wood is imported in planks). I have two old olive trees in my tiny back yard and quite some years ago I trimmed some branches so as to be able to move around that area and was going to use them for firewood. I decided to cut up those branches a couple of months ago to try and turn something and was blown away as to how beautiful the pattern and grain looks when turned and polished up which encouraged me a lot to keep trying to actually make something and so ended up making small boxes, goblets and candlestick holders. Now I am looking for more olive wood but am informed that it is not the season yet for trimming olive trees, now trying to turn bowls and larger boxes from poplar and pine. As they are green most have ended up cracking but I try to rescue them and so far have have painted them with various paints with (I think) nice results. I can hardly find any of the polishes and finishes I see in the videos and so have ordered a few polishes from UK, but a lot of them cannot be shipped due to regulations, so I have to improvise and experiment a lot. My point is that you are limited only by your imagination and so would encourage you to keep on 'giving it a try' and you may surprise yourself with the results. Turning becomes rather addictive and certainly challenges you to keep on trying to produce something more complicated/harder, but like all things, once you have done something it becomes easier and you move on. Of course lots of mistakes but thats how you learn. You could make a little lathe and use a electric drill to dive it (I actually did that with some spindle turned results), or I see you can buy a lathe attachment for a drill for very little money. And there is always 2nd hand/used lathes for sale. Lots of people buy, try and don't get anywhere and then sell. So you can get one very cheap, even a decent 'named' one. If I can be of any help please feel free to contact me and I will be pleased to help in any way I can. Kind regards/George (by the way I am from the UK originally).

NB I didn't realise when your question was posted until after I replied to you the first time. As they say 'better late than never'!

I have had that bandsaw for well over 20 years. I am pretty certain it is a Delta product. I got it, along with the saw, from Woodworkers supply at the same time. It was a great addition. I also put a 2 HP motor on it and replaced the 3/4 horse that was on it. Sam

@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER More power is always good.

No. I have good success with just packing them away and waiting. I am in no rush if that is a benefit to boiling. Sam

I don't see why not. Are they partly hollowed? Or still solid? If the wood is still a solid blank you might get cracking. Sam

It is a 5/8 inch gouge. Sam

Ronald Thanks for the information on the Stabilizer. I found a video by Dave Hout demonstrating the Wood Stabilizer. Very interesting and useful.....I do not have one. First, when I demonstrate in person or in a video I usually use wood that is a little on the soft side. And it is not the prettiest wood. I seldom finish these pieces for sale. When I get a crack in a piece that I really can' repair or feel it compromises the integrity of the piece, I will not sell it. Sometimes we can learn a lot from bandsawing a bowl in half to see how we are really doing. Thanks Sam

Your welcome and I might add I wish I lived where you do as they refuse to ship the non-voc's that they make the stabilizing liquids out of the US.. TMI Products is your best bet unless you have a local Woodcraft Store. Good luck with any attempts that you make on this subject. Seeing as you'll have to purchase a vacuum pump, you might as well attempt to build yourself a vacuum kiln as well. As wood dries a sea level at 76 degree's instead of 212 degree's.

Were you looking at the part I had speeded up? I have learned to make myself look good by way of video editing. Sam

Gerald, I normally heat up my coffee with it. But I do use it. And you can always dry pen blanks and such. Sam

Desmond That is a good idea. I will check it out. In a really large kiln for bowls, it is important to maintain the correct humidity, so this makes sense. Thanks Sam

I think she meant I need to be nicer, she is probably right. Thanks for watching. Sam

Thanks, It is fun to do that. But the secret Is wet wood, or wood that is not dried out yet. Sam