Top tier tutorial! Straight to the point with relevant details. Really appreciate the lack of fluff for something like this (I think you need more fluff in some videos, but you do what's right for you). Dayton has always been good to me. I'm using an old school mini dsp board for my car and not only can I sit on the good settings, but I can modify it so easily when I decide the time delay is off... Its usually just weather and I revert... I will absolutely use this solution for one of my future projects. Only thing is... I'm gonna make an external connecter for the programing port... I have to have adjustability

I'm probably never going to do what you are doing with a home system, but I enjoy 'seeing' what projects/equip. you're using and making- great video👍🏻

I have Parkinson’s and I have been considering a number of speaker projects… But I am intimidated by the crossover! Thanks so much for this video!

Justin, you are the man! You are a great teacher. That was so easy!

I am using a couple of these amps, a couple of 500 Watt DC/DC step up converters, and an Optical to I2S board along with an Android Headunit. Using these DSP amps gives me lots of options for car audio that would cost thousands otherwise.. Oh yeah, and not many of the commercially available DSPs have an Optical input on them. These KABD boards are freaking awesome!

Very cool little piece. I think before we know it we will see the same for car audio.

Wow.. Yesterday only I was looking these and some BMR drives and thinking to make a soundBar. And you comeup with a video. 🕉

I’m using two in a very nice pair of two ways and subwoofer combo with faital 8fe200 1 cubic foot box made of a 13 layer Baltic ply with morel cat 308 tweeters in a birch horn I made. They are fully active and I’ll be rapid prototyping 3d printed horns soon to optimize the morel horns. So far I’m blown away with the power and capabilities of this DSP amp board. The level of adjustability I have is just nuts. I’m adding a zobel filter network to the woofer and tweeter so hopefully that can help with impedance issues with the woofer so the DSP board is not an end all solution but this board will cover 98% of people. It’s flipping fantastic. Great sound quality, lots of control, at a flipping fantastic price. Just make sure you get a high quality power supply, at least 24v 10a but I have a 36v 10a and it sounds slightly better with a higher voltage.

A word of warning if you try this. This set of devices is really cool. I was able to set up the crossovers on a four-way speaker very quickly just from watching Justin‘s video. However, I burned up one of the boards when I accidentally touched them together, so… Keep in mind Circuit boards are very fragile and very susceptible to shock and static. Protect your boards get nylon mounting hardware and some wood panels or something to fix the boards to so you can protect them. I sandwiched mine between two pieces of ash veneer.

Cool product, thanks for sharing!

Seems like a pretty nice amp. I might have gone that route had I not already bought an amp. Some of The parts express speaker kits already come with crossover parts, so I don't think it will be that hard to install them.

Random comment...I'm really liking the finish on those book shelf speakers.

I'm getting ready to build a pair of 3 way active monitors with kabd boards and dd audio A series components. All I'm waiting on at this point is building the cabinets

You can also just route each channel into its own board, you don't have to use passthrough 😉

Where did you find these example files? Have been looking for them for a while. Can somebody please provide a link or a hint?

Wow sweet you just sold me I was wondering about the dsp and how it function on this board but you started talking about the amp capabilities and I'm sold. The only other board that has hole bunch of functionality but there amp section isn't as diverse is acrylic audio if you were to get the none amp model the two together would make a lot off different options add a tablet with windows 10 you probably program both amps and use the tablet as part of the project .🎶🎵👍👌✌️💯

Thanks!

i want to see a video of the amp dyno results.

Thanks for this video. Is it possible to take the filtered DSP outputs and send it to an external amp in case you want to use your own amps?

I think these would be good for a dedicated Bluetooth speaker or computer speakers. But I like to build or modify speakers to run on my existing amplifiers. So these DSP's cannot replace most speakers I would build. Also I would recommend installing capacitors on all midranges and tweeters even if using DSP because sometimes the DSP can fail or not be programmed correctly and could send a low frequency to a tweeter and ruin it. One can always program the DSP to work around the capacitor.

Hey Justin! Cool video to show case this amp. Crossover design is not usually as simple as plugging in some filters. Can you go over the filters and if they allow for linear phase and take phase adjustments like FIR? This is super useful for speaker design.

Another note, this amp comes with a 1/8 inch line input. You do not have to use the Bluetooth so… If you’re trying to drive two speakers with one board in each box, you can just split your line out and run hard wires to them and you could have a powered speakers in stereo

Would be really nice if you could get these non amped, that way you could use it as a crossover only and then use what ever Amp you wanted. I dont think those are going to be very high amps though.

Elliot Designs is right. I have schematics and a guide over at Toids DIY Audio forum. The guide is a rough draft I sat down and typed up on a snowy day in April (Rocky Mountains). It should be enough that you or Nick can use it to see what I was saying to do, but it isn't ready for mainstream quite yet (haven't tested it enough, etc.). I have posted a new one over there this morning which adds a noise gate to the schematic, which will cut out all sound below -80dBFS. That same dynamic compressor, if you wanted to, could also compress the top end so that anything that would be above a specific dBFS will be compressed down to only allow a top volume. I currently have a peak filter there, so I'd recommend swapping it to an RMS filter (under dynamic processors tree) to do it so that it isn't trying to stop transients from exceeding the top, just the average. I am also working on some cool things with an ADSP-21489 schematic to include automatic priority of inputs for switching, an automatic gain function with soft-clip rms, and a triggered noise gate with an additional loop from DAC back through the ADC to then have the signal subtracted from that round trip, then adding the inverse phase to the signal in hopes to cancel out any additional noise from the DAC. I suppose subtracting the exact noise might help as well. But that is a work in project. Unfortunately, I don't have a way to do that to cancel out the noise from the amplifier. I have to learn more and possibly implement some form of table filter to help with that. But, that is for the SHARC which has linear phase correction (FIR filters after IIR filters). Different beast. And if you do check it out, feel free to ask questions before flashing. I have not confirmed yet that the JAB5 from Sure Electronics is the same as Dayton's for the hardware switches, but the schematic, if you copy from mine and past into one made for Dayton's, then you should not have a problem. Plus, I'd love feedback as well.

You should dyno the board!! I believe it's a TDA7498E board which will do "rated" power with a 36VDC input. Though, you would need, at least, a 350 watt power supply to confirm if it does rated power.

Hey I preparing a build two mono 3 way 4ohm speakers based on kabd 4100 working as my rear home theater speakers but also I want add powertools battery hook ups on the back to make them "portable" move to the garden and make quick party... my question is possible to add some preeset profiles and switching them by adding extra button to the board?

Wow. Waiting 2 or 3 days

Nice video, these amps seem so good. Could i use 2 channels bridged to 1x woofer. Then 1 channel for a tweeter. So 2 way mono? For a portable speaker.

So is this basically a programable crossover? How is it connected to each driver? Did the speaker already have a traditional passive crossover installed? I'm about 80% of the way to understanding how this works. Also, can these be used with a traditional external amplifier? Thanks so much.

Oohhh... That is pretty cool.

Hmmm, something else I would really like to see is a case for it so you could use it in mini stacks

buddy i have a question - can I really disconnect the programming board? It seems to me that the filters I just tinkered with, thats going to be written to the programming board and not the amplifier board?

what is FITH ? is it suppose to be , 5th. fifth ?

Is a preamp needed with one of these? Id be using my mobile phone as the input source. Spotify soundcloud etc

I bought this amp too, but the fan isn't on. Does somebody know if it goes on only when it gets warm, or should it be on all the time?

That's a awesome peace of equipment. Does it do rated power ?

Ajc9988 is developing some great sigmastudio schematics and a guide for these types of boards over on Nick's forum (DSP section). Bunch of really useful functionality, including some stuff that should hopefully reduce noise. I think he's currently working on stuff for sharc processors though. Either way, great video, and really nice to see people getting into active crossovers now that Dayton has jumped on the active bandwagon!

How does the amp perform with the DINAS? gives 100w rms for real?

Big question, what if I wanted do make a 5.1 home theater system without using passive crossovers for the satellites? Would I need a dsp amp for each of the speakers? Also, would the amp of the av receiver just be useless at this point? How would you go about a similar project? Thank you very much and keep up the great work!

wait, I just looked on PE and it says 100 x 4? So that little bitty thing is putting out 100x100x100x100 or 200x100x100 or 200x 200? If this is correct, this is frigging nice, maybe even kind od revolutionary for DIY'ers

Whats the wattage on the amp, you didnt mention that?

Justin: I would be nice and useful if you did some measurements and showed what the realistic output power ratings of this amp board are. The class D amp chip in this design is rated 100 watts at the class D industry standard of 10% distortion! I don’t know about you but, I’d rather not hear my music played with that much distortion, thank you. Looking at the TDA7498 datasheet it looks like the most you’ll get with an 8 ohm load before clipping is a hair less than 40 watts. Oddly enough, you get even less with a 6 ohm load; a bit over 30 watts before clipping. It doesn’t seem to be rated for 4 ohm loads. Looking at the 6 ohm headroom loss it’s probably a wise limitation. Also, this is a single supply H-bridge equivalent output chip (as many class D chip amps are) and therefore there is no way to configure it for a “bridged” output. The output is already bridged. You can put two outputs in parallel which is actually what you get utilizing the jumper that is mentioned but, that’s not bridging. This might help getting more power into loads < 8 ohms but, you won’t be getting the large increase that you’d expect with an amp capable of actual bridging. This is a great amp board for the money but, let’s be honest about its limitations too.

Can you cover dsp for car audio? So expensive…not many even use them when they should.

2:53 This interface is not called two-C but I²C, so I squared C.

Do the PRV 2.8x

Only partly true, drivers are designed to work with passive xovers. There is a humps and dips to cope with, must choose very carefullu witch drivers to use with active system 🤔🇫🇮

Cool possibilities for design flexibility with that amp board, but with it being a relatively inexpensive one, (surely) made in China, and def. a Class D amp based on its size and lack of heatsink, I would be concerned with the overall sound quality, rated distortion and noise levels, and realistic CLEAN (i.e. as UN-distorted as possible), power output abilities. It may very well give you lots of options in design flexibility, which is indeed cool, but is it actually up to a higher audiophile sound quality standard... i.e. what you would actually want to have if you actually took the time to custom design and carefully build your own speakers!... Also, even with as "easy" as this amp is to set up and program on your computer, since I am not at all a computer person, I personally think that it's still MUCH easier and simpler to just use good old fashioned passive component crossovers to build your speakers, than trying to figure out how to use a computer and then have to also program this amp. The programming procedure looks extremely complicated, way more so than simply designing and building a basic passive component crossover in the first place!... But "to each their own" I guess. I'm more "old school" than this amp, especially since I don't understand anything about computers, not even how to turn them on or off properly... the closest thing I ever get to using a computer is my scientific calculator and my smartphone that I'm watching this video on and typing this comment on, and I still haven't fully figured out how to even use that to its fullest capacity, even after 3 years of daily frustration with it! (basic functions only)

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50 W IS A BIT WEAK

No!!! not $30 for an inductor, how ever will the wallet recover from that? You get what you pay for in crossover parts. Pity it is bluetooth, they might have a place in a real wired speaker.