Glad it was helpful!

I figured it might help out people who might have the same questions I had while installing. ;)

how did it go I have My 1500 quad cab 5000rms 300amp alt xs d6500 all 1/0 ofc dual runs from alt to the battery thinking of getting a second batt might stick with xs power because I have a meter in the dash some songs certain notes it'll drop to 13v then once that note stops goes right back to 14.4 well I know with 2 xs power AGM batts I really don't need an isolator but they say u want to match the isolator amps to the alternator amps being that I have 300amp alt should I get a 500w isolator I know this brand makes a 300amp isolator but I might get a 500w isolator because I'm the future I might get a bigger alt like 350 370 my 300 has been going strong for couple years now

I'm glad you found it helpful!

Glad you liked it!

I'm sorta amazed actually ;)

I'm glad you found it useful. One of the best items I have bought for boondocking for sure.

Great! Yeah, it worked really well on a two month trip I took, best thing I ever did to keep my 2nd battery topped off - better than the solar panel I got! Never experienced the clicking you describe, though.

@@GripandClip yeah, idk. It was just a one time thing and hasn't happened since. And I'll second that it worked better than the solar panels. What a great unit!

I'm going to substitute multiple crystal power cell batteries instead of solar panels. Crystal power cells constantly give out an electrical charge 24/7 and last anywhere from 2 to 4 years or more. John Hutchison is the inventor and many others have been experimenting with his invention.

Glad to help!

Jacob Thies You’re welcome!

You bet man!

Glad you found it useful.

Hmm, okay. I have been running the standard install for awhile now, no issues. But a fuse is probably a good idea if you want to be extra safe.

@@GripandClip yessir you most definitely need two Anl fuses and two holders for em! Then get some cable cutters and measure or eyeball approximately 10"-14" Inches away from very end of cable on both sides of positive wire, so undo the actual battery terminal and then yeah it kind of sucks I know but I mean since you didn't know you had to do that in the very beginning so unfortunately you'll end up having to cut off the two "crimped" compression copper cable lugs do the two new cuts like stated above on the positive cable then re-crimp two brand new copper compression cable lugs, install the holder and fuse (or a fused 12v circuit breaker. Then you need to of course re-heat shrink over those new crimpped lugs once again, mount the new fuses somewhere either screw them down or ziptie if their is a sturdy spot, and then you can go on ahead and re-install everything right back to that same position that you've installed it to that you're showing in this video here... And then you'll 100% percent be covered and have assurance and peace of mind knowing you won't be driving down the road one day and all of a sudden your whole cab start smoking and yeah I know lots of people say meh it's whatever I'll be fine sure people say their call will burn to the ground I'm sure that's just exaggeration if it start ever smoking or burning "I'll put it out quick", before anything happens... But the thing people don't realize is when that happens it happens so quick and it literally if you've ever seen it happen close up, that part of the wire that "malfunctions" or shorts out, a whole section around it literally becomes like a red/yellowish glowing rod that instantly melts your carpet in seconds and if it happenes and really crappy area like touching against a plastic panel in the car sitting along side the door under carpet and panel... Those are the worst that do most damage to your vehicle... Sorry about my blabbing... But yeah you most definitely need to fuse up exactly where I mentioned earlier. If you want just lemme know by replying or whatever but if you want I'll literally find you everything you need on Amazon for the cheapest and having being 100% quality stuff not China crap. It's really not that expensive for what you need to protect your wires. They should of included it in that box you got I don't understand why they didn't that's strange really cause most other kits usually will. 😕

@@GripandClip I was actually thinking I could actually if you wanted of course or if you know where to get one... I was going to say instead of you having to re heat shrink and re crimp new lugs back on and have to spend money on that you can just get the holder that has screw down compression input fuse holders that way you don't need no heat shrink or any more copper lugs which are kinda spendy actually... But yeah I can get/find you one of those compression fuse holders and few fuses in like a kit for under 15 bucks provably maybe even 10 on Amazon they're real cheap but are like a total necessity to have if you install anything at all from your car battery and especially when using heavier AWG gauge of wire like you're using for this VSR.

@@GripandClip just lemme know I can 100% in less than 10 minutes find you an Amazon link for a little kit of entirely everything you're needing for under 15 bucks for sure. Im not trying to make nothing off it haha I couldn't and honestly don't even know how people do that from youtube... I'm just wanting to help a person out if can be. Cause I just recently bought buncha new accessories to install in my car and I bought me few different fuse holders and blocks that's kinda why am saying cause literally just got some and still have the links in my history

You’re welcome.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful for you!

I was wondering if some of the other kits out there were basically just rebranded. Thanks for confirming!

mark stone That’s an interesting idea. I’ll keep that as maybe something to explore. Yeah, having the stereo reset might be annoying - not sure how to get around that.

Glad it was helpful! Has worked really well for me.

Glad you liked it!

I do have my solar panel hooked up as well. I failed to make an install video for that, but there are several videos from other folks on YT. I think it's an easier process. It's great for charging your auxiliary battery while parked!

That's cool! Let me know how it goes. The instructions were pretty clear, so I found that a complete novice like me could even do it.

Jordan Peterson? That's funny, I'll have to listen to him again!

@@GripandClip You 100% should do impressions!

I use my truck's extra battery as a backup to my solar powered Yurt, actually. I use it as a generator backup to recharge my Yurt's batteries. I'll run the truck for 30 minutes, which tops off the 4 lithium battery bank I have inside. See more here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sMWiZtyn2tOmfWQ.html

BromptonShrink Glad you found the video useful. The solar panel is a DOKIO 100 watt folding panel. (link in the video description) I’ve since upgraded to their 300 watt panel, and a lithium ion auxiliary battery. Going straight underneath probably would have saved me some time. On the other hand I don’t have to muck about underneath my truck .;) Tradeoffs I guess. I’ve had to charge my startup battery a couple times. I just used my jumper cables - your setup sounds better - maybe I’ll try to figure that out with my setup.

Gripand Clip . It’s a little yellow wire that comes out from behind the isolator. I haven’t used it yet of course. How would you drain your main battery? You could connect your 100w panel to the front battery if your camping a few days? 300w panel to the rear?

@@CaffeineJogger I left my lights on my old truck. ;) No auto light shut off. I do keep the 100w as a backup.

I haven't done a proper side-by-side test. It's kinda hard to do as solar angle and intensity changes. My guess is that given equal angle to the sun and equal intensity there would be no loss, but that's an educated guess. Sorry mate!

Still works well!

I can only tell you that I didn’t use any, and the instructions didn’t indicate the need.

Hmm, I didn't experience that.Not sure why it's causing it, sorry friend.

Glad you liked the video! It's one of the best additions I've made, actually. Now I run my thermoelectric cooler, charge everything, run my laptop. Since I move fairly frequently this tops off my 2 auxiliary batteries, which allow me many days of power. I forget to use my solar panel, since I really haven't had the need yet.

@@GripandClip awesome! I also want to do a very similar set up (small Esky fridge, charge phones and laptop) while keeping the stealthy look of the van by not having a solar panel fixed to the roof. What size batteries are you running?

@@GripandClip also do you have a "stupid simple" video on how to connect the batteries to power the accessories? (I.e. did you use an inverter then a fuse and wire everything from there? What sort of inverter etc haha)

@@TheTaeminator I intend to make a video about my complete electrical setup, just need to carve out some time ;) But yes, I use a 2000 watt inverter. For appliances that run direct off a cigarette lighter cable, I just connect directly to the battery with a fused cigarette lighter adaptor. The inverter is: amzn.to/2TplxGP It's the cheapest 2k inverter I could find. I charge cell phones and laptop off the inverter. It's a Modified Sine Wave inverter, and some say you need a Pure Sine Wave, but thru my research I've concluded that the Macbook adaptor "adapts" the voltage into a pure sine wave - but DYOR. The fan can be a little loud, which is unfortunate because it's right by the head of my bed, but since it's been cold at night I just shut it off. The female cigarette lighter cables (with fuses): amzn.to/2IZhMTW. I plug the refrigerator directly to the plug which connects to the battery. I also connect my Max Burton Digital Stove To Go to a second one attached to my other auxiliary battery: amzn.to/2TnM5s8

@@TheTaeminator kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqiod7iazLLSimQ.html

Hahaa, luckily I never made that mistake, the camera just happened to be close to the negative terminal.

Not really sure what you mean by “dc to dc charger.” This isolator takes the charge from the starter battery, which is dc, and charges your auxiliary battery, which is also dc. Everything to do that is in the box.

Probably best to ask the sellers of the Isolator on Amazon: amzn.to/3e62rw7

Should work. Might be a little less efficient in charging depending on the distance from the starter battery. The kit comes with 20' of red cable, which should be enough to connect on most cars.

It's worked well for me. I did switch to a lithium battery, which requires a higher voltage to charge properly (it still charges, just slower), so that may be a concern. But for a marine style battery (which I had before) this was perfect.

Good question, and I wish I had a firm answer for you. I don't see that information on the product description. On Amazon, one person said that it does shut off, but I wouldn't know how to test that for sure. I do know that my auxiliary batteries never show overcharging according to my charge controller readings.

@@GripandClip okay great. Thanks for responding

The starter battery is a flushtop maintenance free battery from AAA. I assume it's lead acid, but it's not labelled. The size is 34-C if you want to look it up. The second is AGM.

Bent Nickel I do, lol! You know, just in case ;)

No one ever stresses the need for an ABC extinguisher, when you're adding or installing new wiring. I see fuses, called for, and that's good, but NEVER an extinguisher. I saved a lady, her baby and her car with an ABC that my business had available 40 years ago and it's a great feeling.

@@bentnickel7487 Good for you man! Yes, excellent idea.

Depends. Is the cigarette lighter connected to the auxiliary battery, and not the car battery? Then yes. But, if you're talking about the lighter in the cab it's probably wired to the car battery so you'd drain it.

@@GripandClip ok, so all the accessories that i need to use should be connected to the aux battery since this device is only for charging the aux battery. Hope i understand it correctly this time 😁

@@adrianreyes640 Yes, that is how I have it setup for my truck. Good luck!

@@GripandClip thanks, 😊

I started with 2 AGM batteries hooked up in parallel. In theory it should have charged the same as a single 12v battery, but personally I found it charged them unequally. I did have the isolator only hooked to a single battery, though. You might want to connect to the positive end of one battery, and the negative of the 2nd battery, which may work better.

@@GripandClip thank you

micjakes1 I personally don’t know the answer to that, but on Amazon the seller of my particular unit responded to several people who asked the same question as you: “We have a lot of customers with 180 amp alternators using the KeyLine isolator for years now. The isolator would not shut off if overloaded but it may become inoperative due to too much power. However, 99% of applications out there will only draw a maximum of 60-80 amps (however, I don't know about your specific application. For some customers running heavy work loads they have placed a 180 amp, or less, breaker or fuse between the start battery and the isolator.” Hope that helps.

I haven't had any issues since I installed it. Works like a charm. Good product IMHO.

I don't really know the answer to that. It really depends on your usage, and type of battery. My AGM battery would top off with everyday driving, the main drain being a small frig, with LED lights and cell phone and laptop recharging. When stationary I would top off with a 100 watt solar panel.