As always invaluable resource. The trick to lossen the trigger to get the mainspring in place is what I wish I had remember last night. Thank you

Thank you for this video. It is invaluable! I would disassemble the action every single time I cleaned my gun after shooting. The gun was a Pietta 1851 Navy. I became so good it became so easy and fast. Every single time I discovered pieces of caps, so I say, Yes, do it every time! Easy & Worth it!

Awesome Video, I was really nervous about stripping the original 1851 Navy Colt I just bought to give it a really good cleaning, action was pretty gummy but after watching Mike's video it got a real good deep cleaning and re-assembly, now the action is smooth as butter.

Good video.

It's just like Pokemon, gotta catch em all.

Thanks for a very helpful video Mike. I was very reluctant to take the gun down to this degree, but when I had a hammer jam I had no choice. A thorough cleaning did the trick. I had trouble getting the bolt back in the right position, but with a bit of pause and replay on your video (ok, a lot) I got it all back together and working great. This is a tremendous resource for us out here, and is greatly appreciated.

for as great a technological advancement as these revolvers were over what came before them, the pure simplicity of the internals truly is a thing of beauty. As usual, another great video. Thanks again Mike, and continue on the road to expanding the interest and knowledge of your fans.

Mike, A helpful and useful video from an expert. My Colt 1861 was always an enigma under the trigger plate - playing your video as I stripped it down and reassembled it gave great confidence (and more importantly) a weapon that is in full working order. Many thanks again.

Oh yea, this is the video I was looking for! What a resource Mike is for black powder revolvers. Back around the turn of the century when I first started shooting these cantankerous canons there was nothing out there that showed step by step breaking down and reassembly of the Colt actions. So after shooting I always took apart and cleaned the gun but left the frame intact. I cleaned it as best I could by squeezing black powder solvent into the works via the hammer and bolt and trigger. Then I would flush it all clean with WD-40, working the action as I did. Thanks to Mike now I can see how it is done. We can all see how it is done. Awesome black powder videos, I love everyone I watch!

Another excellent descriptive video, removing the mystery of complete disassembly makes life a great deal easier for people such as myself. I have noticed with all problems people have at the range poor maintenance indeed is a large factor. I am always anticipating your new videos when posted. Richard.

nice job on this 2 part series - now i feel (pretty) confident that I can clean the gun sitting in my dresser drawer for the last 40 years that my uncle gave me oh-so-many-moons ago. Big thanks!

Those were great videos. I now have a much better understanding of cleaning cap and ball. Thanks very much.

I wish Mr. B. was around in 1976 when I bought my brass framed .44 cal. 1851 Colt "Navy". I was inspired by the movie "The Outlaw Josie Wales" to pick up a BP Colt reproduction. I ordered the pistol from Dixie Gun Works, if I can remember. I was cheap. When it arrived I was brokenhearted to see how cheaply it was built. Reading the proof marks now, I see it was made by Gordone & Brescia in 1976. It was like a kit gun. I had to disassemble and polish the entire works. It was great lesson in gunsmithing . It still shoots after 40 years of light, but constant usage. The barrel is so crudely finished it's amazing it shoots straight. Profession gunsmiths have told me it wasn't worth the cost of any barrel work. Love your work. (I clean mine with hot soapy water. Then a good oiling.)

I have seen probably ten different videos on how to put mine back together and I haven't been able to do it until now. Thank you so much!

Ok thanks. I enjoy the videos very much and also your work in guns of the old west, keep up the good work.

WOW, Mike you're awesome. Watching you not only on this video but others, have brought me to a new adventure.

Wow thank you so much, just bought my first 1851 Navy 44 cal. and cant wait to get out on the range! Until I found your videos I had no idea what I was doing but now thanks to you Ill be able to safely load, shoot and clean my new Pietta and have a great time because im prepared lol. Thanks again!!!!!

One suggestion. There is always the possibility of moisture casing the nipples to seize up. Simply just screw them in enough so that the cylinder will revolve, and no more. They will not be in very tight. Before shooting, take them out, put a bit of lube on the threads, and tighten properly. After shooting, get them out as soon as you can.

I was at the pistol range the other day shooting my dragoon,when I noticed it wouldn't go to half cock. I figured a cap fragment jamming up the works. so I watch your video / I retrieved the cap fragment and proceeded with reassembly. the only trouble I had was getting the hand and hammer assembly back in. after some time and fussing with it. it just suddenly went in and the rest of the assembly went without a hitch. now it works fine.couldn't have done without your video. thanks so much.

Hello . Mike😀 I must say this video really help me out. I can do this blind folded.thank you so much for what you do. Bless you all 🇺🇸

Thank you for the video. I successfully took mine apart and back together. Thank you.

Thanks very much for these cleaning videos! I just bought two model 1851's and haven't even taken them out of the factory packaging yet until I purchase all of the cleaning stuff, etc. This video gives me a lot of information to go on.....Thanks again!

Thanks for this video, it really saved my bacon!! I guess I should have watched this first, BEFORE just taking all the screws out lol. This video made it so easy to put back together in 10 minutes, where I screwed around for 3 hours trying to get it fixed......

Mike, thanks a lot for this. You helped me take apart my Navy Pocket revolver and more importantly, get it back together! To the range!

Mike, thank you for the explanation, it now makes sense to me.

Hi Mike. I saved the back strap but ordered a new one so I can re shape it like you did. I re tapped the screw hole so should be up and running again as soon as the new screws get here. Thanks for your help. Dave.

thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.. you are the greatest

Thanks Mike, I'll give it a try and keep you informed of the progress. Thanks for the great videos. All the best, Dave.

Thanks mike. This really helped when I forgot a step.

Very helpful. I bought an 1860's era colt, that needs some repairing. I will tinker with it myself now that i have this guide. Update. I found The trigger spring was broken. Received a new one today and now it is working well, and the timing is good. Kinda fat-fingered a couple of places in the reassembly, and the pistol would go off camera at important places. Still gave me the confidence to dig into the repair. Lots of fun!

Wish I'd seen this video last night as I was taking mine down, only thing I didn't dare to take apart (first time gun owner) was the trigger assembly... now I know what to expect! Great work!

Thank you very well !! Top video !! All the Best for you from Austria in Europe !! Good shot every Time !

Thank you for this video, it will help a lot. I just bought a Pietta Dragoon 3rd Edition and now I know how to clean it. Thank you.

as always, perfect story

Thank you, very helpful

excellent video. very informative. thank you

Great, helpful video !

Awesome vid Mike thanks more than you know!

I couldn't find out what size screwdriver I need for my pietta's (1860 and 36cal navy). I esp needed the size for the mainspring screw. Thanks for covering that!

Thanks Mike,

Mike - I know you did these two vids in 2012 but I'm new to cap and ball revolvers having just bought a Pietta made 1861 Navy. I have watched several vids on this topic but wanted to tell you that yours is by far the easiest to follow. Thanks for what you do - I'll continue to watch your very good videos. By the way, I'm from your area - currently live near Gettysburg.

Just Bought a used 1860 CVA colt with problems, after watching your videos I was able to determine what was wrong ( trigger spring, hand spring ) and am able to repair it. Thank for the great information

thanks mike

Really helpful video I got stuck with the trigger reset spring and bolt

Thanks for the vids. My 51 navy is in pieces right now as I decide how much to modify it (if at all). I'm sure your instructions will help.

I feel your pain. Those Italians torque screws down like no tomorrow. Try this: mount the frame in a padded vice and be sure the driver fits the screw slot perfectly. With the driver in the slot, rap the driver handle smartly with a mallet. That may loosen the hold of the threads a little. Then fit vice grip pliers to the handle of the screw driver. Use your palm on the end of the driver to apply pressure to keep the driver firmly buried in the screw slot, and use the vice grips to turn driver

Give him his dues . Your still the best . Thanks

Thanks for this great video I know feel comfortable taking it apart just wish the screws weren't so cheaply made

you are a lifesaver, thanks :)

This is going to be very helpful,since I broke the hand,on my 1851,this past weekend. I've already taken it down,completely,& I'm waiting for a delivery from Dixie Gun Works........ Thanks!!!

I had a cap drop in my 1860 (fortunately on the last shot), seized up the action on my gun, that was an experience...

ok i fixed it via your instructions, seems smooth now. only the cylinder now has lines scratched in it where it touches the barrel. the metal itstelf ins't really scracthed, but the blueing has rubbed off... this normal?

thanks for the reply Mike, I do own a single action bronells screw driver set, but the screws are tight, and i fear i might buger them up. I did get the gun apart without hurting the screws. the tricky part will be getting it back together. all i found was nasty think black looking oil.

I wonder if you could blow the cap out without taking it a part this far.

The part that comes up through the frame and engages the cuts in the cylinder to lock the cylinder in place is the bolt.

i took mine apart because the cylinder quit locking at full cock so i tore it down and found the bolt and trigger spring was broken thanks for the videos they helped me out greatly

I've got a bunch of them. They're fine

Hi Mike, I have just bought a Pietta 1851 in .44 calibre. I can not get the screws out of the top of the back strap where they hold it to the frame. I used the proper screwdriver and the heads are so soft on the screws, I'm scared they will turn off. Any suggestions on how to get them out? I live in the UK and BP specialists are few and far between. Many thanks, Dave.

I have a Pietta Army Colt. It has the three screws on the side of the case-hardened body, as well as a much larger fourth screw, with heads on either side. Yours doesn't have it, neither does my civilian Navy .44 model. What's this screw?

Hi mike. I can't get the left screw out at all. The right one shifted so I think I'll have to drill it out and replace the backstrap. I can not believe how hard that screw is in there!!

I just got a pietta 1858 remington blued model, would you suggest that the action only be taken apart for cleaning every 3 to 4 times of shooting as well, or should it be done every time? I am using 777 powder.

Yeah, Uberti really torques those screws down. You need a perfect fit with the screwdriver, and lots of force the first time you take them off. I use Brownell's Magnatip drivers, but visit their website. They probably have a screwdriver set for Colt SAAs, get that.

Where is the slot for the catch on the hammer at?

11:30 My "front screw" is pretty stripped out on my pietta .44 Navy. Anywhere I could get a replacement?

It is to mount a shoulder stock. The military models have them.

Hi Mike. Been a while since taking my Pietta Colt Army apart. Man what a pain. I've watched your video and blackoracle69 has some good ones. I cannot seem to get it back together where it SAFELY goes from half to full cock. I am going to give it a fresh start in the morning. I do know that the hand and it's spring both go into the groove in the frame. My original plan was to stone and or file the sharp edges just a hair smoother and get rid of any imperfections from the milling process. Trust me when I say that their finishing after milling had some rough spots. If I have any major problems I will let you know. The Italian soft steel screws are a booger also.

If you have time please do a disassembly video for a walker. Thank you!

I just got the cimarron man with no name revolver 1851 conversion. i took it apart to clean off the factory oil, and i wanted to check the action out, so i cocked the hammer all the way back while the barrel and cylinder was off it. the hammer got stuck! i will not go forward! is this normal???

Where do you get your screwdrivers that don't bugger up your screws???

I have the very same gun & I can't rotate the cylinder when the hammer is in the half cocked position. Any suggestions??

you can still get cap and ball and muzzle loading rifles on a FAC in the UK. Look up a store or club in your area.

Now how does one know on how fare to push the wedge in? So to not go to far or not enough.

I have a copy of this revolver. Western Arms. The cylinder will not lock in place anymore. It looks like the bolt(?) is only coming up a tiny bit when the hammer is down. Pulling the hammer back makes it go even lower into the frame but when it comes back up, it's flush with the frame and will not lock the cylinder in place. Thanks for this video. I am going to use ti to take my revolver apart to try to fix it. Is this a common problem you've run into?

Do you recommend breaking down the film trigger assembly every time you shoot or is it something that is fine to do every couple shooting sessions.

I'm not comfortable giving you an answer without seeing what you are seeing. I have three 1851 Navy conversions and none of them has the blueing rubbed off the cylinder face. But mine are all custom builds by Kenny Howell. I can't speak for Uberti production.If the cylinder binds enough against the barrel to scratch the face, you should feel a lot of drag when you cock the gun. If that is the case your wedge may be in too far.

I have an 1851 Navy and when I put it on half cock, the cylinder bolt comes up and locks the cylinder. The weird part is, it didn't do this when I first started shooting it. If I pull the hammer back just a little, then I can rotate the cylinder to load it etc. I took it apart and cleaned it good, that didn't help. No more Pietta's for me. Thanks for your videos.

Hi Mike! Great video! I had a hand spring break in my 1851.....Ordered a parts replacement kit for it from Cabelas, found your video and proceeded to break the gun down to replace the spring....Everything seemed to go fine until i had the whole gun back together then for some reason I can't get the hammer or cylinder to move....I did a function check before putting it back together but still had the problem....if you have any advice it would be much appreciated thank you in advance...

My uberti 1860 army, 4 weeks old, cap sucked down in the action, broke the bolt. Where can I find parts to repair the pistol?

lol Everything I look concerning black powder you have a vid on it. I guess I should sub. Oh,wait,I already did.

So it is ok to just take the grip of and spray the whole assemble but after the 3 or 4 time shooting you should disassemble the whole thing for cleaning ?

Does it make sense to deassembly entire action part? It seems not so dearty and I gues that if you would just spray it all using gun oil sprayed in all gaps between moving parts you would make it clean and secured from rusting without all this struggle

I took my Pietta 1851 apart to see how it worked and to clean it, and now, as I’m reassembling it, once I have the trigger prong in and check for function, it seems the bolt is reaching full cock before the trigger is, creating a second “half-cock” where the cylinder is locked. How do I correct this?

After the second range visit (maybe 80 shots in the two visits) my poor Pietta stopped working right; the cylinder spins silently at half cock and the hammer only rotates the cylinder when cocked if pointed downward. It seems as if the hand spring lost tension and is relying on gravity. I did notice a cap fell in the hammer opening in the frame but I dumped it back out. Could that be the cause, or -- as this is an old second hand repro from the 1980s -- I'm wondering if the hand spring is gone... has this ever happened to you? Getting a new to me 1851 in pristine shape a few days in much better shape so may save this one for learning repairs (for which this vid will be a big help), but it'd help to know what it is that broke.

Every three or four times will be fine for your Remington.

Mike, Thank you for this great video. I just bought a new 1851 Uberti Navy. I took it apart to do the initial cleaning, but I couldn't take the screws out of the base or trigger guard. Either the screws were in extra tight, or I have lousy tools. Probably the latter. Any suggestions on a better set of screw drivers? Thanks. Can't wait to get to the range.

Thanks for taking the time to do these vids they are really helpful. Quick question about the wedge - how much force do you use to put it in place. On my pietta I noticed my point of aim changes depending on how hard I knock the wedge in. Is that normal on these guns?

is there a good substitute for that final spray?

I have an older Lyman 1860 that shoots really well. Do you know of any other guns that their parts will interchange with this Lyman? Always great videos and very informative.

Hi Mike, what a fabulous video. Full of wisdom & know how. I’ve ordered a Colt Navy 1861 revolver. I have also order the 3 bits from Brownell’s you suggested and an appropriate handle. I got the jags coming from Tipton. I was curious where you found your hammer or if you have a make & model perhaps? I did find a nice Halder hammer site. I just don’t want to overdo it. I’d be happy with a nylon & brass since it’s a soft metal. I need to check my stuff as I think I might have the Ballistol sprayer. I would have never thought about that though I used to clean my reproduction 1847 Springfield rifle with the hottest water I could get & Dawn detergent. Came amazingly clean. Look forward to your response. Take care & thank you.

Thanks for the video. My gun has a very dangerous hair trigger. Would replacing the trigger take care of it, or do I need a trigger/hammer combo?

Was wondering why rod was not greased before installing cylinder ?

It catches the spring lip on the wedge. It is just to keep the wedge from dropping out and getting lost. There is no reason to remove that screw.

Is there a square back trigger guard that will fit a current vintage Pietta .36 cal Navy revolver?

I have watched many of your vids over the years and find them helpful. Could you recommend how to go about locating a competent gunsmith to check my Snider III carbine and my Martini Henrys to see if they're shootable?

love you videos!. I've only been shooting for just under three years now ( I'm 49 years old), but came to love it accidentally after my wife and I took a handgun license course together and went shooting to qualify. the rest is history as I have become addicted to not only guns, but the history of the guns. I now have about 15 all together. I recently bought a Uberti 1847 Walker and had the chance finally today to find an outdoor range and shoot it! I only had about three successful shots. I think a cap dropped into the action and was preventing firing of the other chambers perhaps. ??? My main question is this. When I put my barrel on, If I tap the wedge too much, then the cylinder cannot rotate when cocked. I have to slightly tap on the wedge too loosen it a little bit before it can turn. And, it seems like the drag is not quite even all the way around the cylinder as it rotates (if that makes any sense). Again, love your videos! I've learned a lot and now am about to clean this thing for the first time following your example. Any help/advice is appreciated!

I have an issue where if I squeeze my trigger to hard it will stick to far back keeping the hammer from locking. Any idea on how to fix this

Shooting about 24 rounds Sunday. Noticed the bolt pin screw backing half way out. Is this normal for black powder, if not how can I stop this?

Mike, my family bought me a steel frame 1851 Navy in .36 as a retirement gift (23 years Navy), and I thoroughly enjoy it. I've even introduced my daughter to BP shooting, and she likes it as much as me (after first shot, said "That's cool."). I want to pick up the specialized screwdrivers that you use on the Navy (the brown handle ones). Might you let me know the exact sizes? Thanks so much.

Great set of videos but I can't get past step 1. The wedge seems like it's welded in place and does not move.

Another fantastic video. Thanks for posting these. Two questions... what is the screw that resides above the wedge used for? I noticed you left that in. Is it recommended not to remove it?