Can you imagine waaay back in the day, settin' out on the porch with a file and just slowly, methodically, removing metal from what is not an easily replacable part...seems idyllic to me...

Excellent Job Mike! These videos of, "How To Do Home Gunsmithing" on C&B Revolvers is really needed, You are doing a great service for many shooters. I wonder how the Milwaukee Tool Compares to a Dremal?

@MrKaido93 I have worn out a couple of cordless Dremels. The Milwaukee Tool has more power and better battery life. It is a bit bigger and heavier though.

Thank you for sharing this information

Dear Sir, Thank you for adding this clip. As I saw the previous one I was wondering how to do this adjustment as I have the same issue. This will greatly help me in the work I have to do on my C&B guns.

Great video. I have the Uberti 3rd model Dragoon and plan to do this. It easily shoots about 6-7" high at 50 feet with 43 gr. fffg Goex and a .457" round ball.

Have you ever squared off a rear sight? Thank you for this series of gun videos, its the best on the internet.

I have a couple guns coming this week, one cap & ball and the other cartridge conversion. Nice video to see, thanks for the info .... hopefully mine won't be off too badly but I'm sure they'll need something .... they usually do.

During the fine tuning adjustments on the range, do you just remove metal from the top of the sight or do you also deepen the V of the notch? In other words, do you end up with a more shallow V than right after you opened it up on the workbench or do you try to keep the V very deep.

Yes, but it makes for a pretty wide rear sight notch

I've heard you say there is no way to adjust windage other then a dovetail front sight, but it makes no sense since moving the rear notch a little will accomplish this exactly the same as you are doing it for elevation. I had to open up the notch anyway to bring the poi down, so I just in conjunction opened it up on the right side of the notch only, tapered the left larger now side a little so the size difference is unnoticeable, filled flat the very top so I had a nice clean line to hold the point of the front sight to and there you go, notorious left and high solved by a single adjustment of the notch and I little cosmetic touch up. Hell no am I going to cut a dovetail and go through all that work and remove that lovely brass post when I can just adjust the notch a little and leave everything original.

In watching this video, I noticed that the Pietta hammer spur is grooved instead of being cross-hatched. Is that actually correct? It's a rather prominent detail to get wrong like thst.

I have deepened and widened the rear notch on a few. Lowering the top face? When deepening and widening the notch? Doesn't that serve the same purpose? I am asking because I am confused. Thanks, Mike

i can see the top of my cylinder through my back sight should i be worried?

That's great to know. Do you know what velocity you were or load and powder? At that close of a range maybe it doesn't matter. I was told 18g of fffg black powder is what the competition shooters do.

I like to keep the notch deep, but, really you don't remove much metal to sight it in.

Were these intended to be modified in the day or were these expected to engage at longer range and did they just have way better eyes back then?

I would not recommend using power tools. To easy to over do it in the blink of an eye.