Having carried probably 100 loads of saw dust from my local saw mills over the years, I can give you a tip about keeping it in the truck and not blowing half the load out on the way to your destination. I lay a very large tarp down in the bed of the truck and over the cab of the truck. It goes all the way over the hood and to the ground in front of the truck. Once you are full, fold the tarp over the top of the saw dust and secure with straps. It saves you from loosing a bunch of what you paid for. 😉

Very cool, I’m interested to see the longevity of this idea. But as an electrician I would like to offer you some advice. If you’re going to do walls with a masonry fill like this, don’t use those kind of boxes and wire. They make actual masonry boxes. Also don’t embed NM wire in the wall like that, run pipe from the box to outside of the masonry wall and run the wire in the pipe. Just some friendly advice.

My late Dad who was born 100 years ago said that my grandparents never had a refrigerator but instead built a ice box out of cypress lumber. It was a box inside a box with about a foot of sawdust between. Kept a 50 pound block of ice for more than a week.

With all the earth tones and the gentle explanations, this guy is like Mr. Rogers for grown men. I'm tripping.

60 years ago a group of guys got together to build a hunting lodge. One of them was a master mason. They built the lodge next to a brook and used the stones from the brook to build the walls. The floor was on top of gravel, rocks and boulders, the floor was a mixture of sawdust and concrete, an old trick masons used to add insulation qualities to the concrete. The floor also had channel in it to draft the cool air from the back bedrooms to the fireplace where it was heated and forced back out into the room, therefor making a circle of warmed air to flow through the inside of the building. This building still stands solid as the day it was built. Personally I would make shredded Styrofoam mixed concrete blocks. Then coat the walls inside and out with concrete mixed with fiberglass fibers for structural integrity. This would have more insulation value than the sawdust and concrete mixture. The draw back of this is the wall is very thick. The good thing is that the wall is very solid and strong. I think his slip form technique is a unique construction method that has some possibilities and easier to keep the wall straight and plumb. I would add some kind of wire fence into the concrete mix on the wall.

this reminds me so much of my dad working on things... a lil genius, a lil mad, a lot of broke, a lot of creativity, & very few women had long-term patience for it all. thx ;D never stop learning/growing/bettering yourself!

As an engineer interested in innovation, you have my attention. What a creative set of ideas. Fireproof or nearly so. Enough mass in the wall to provide thermal inertia and the sawdust provides the insulation. This would be an ideal form of building in the tropics where insects are a constant problem. Where high winds destroy typical frame construction. The manner of building permits curved walls that can be designed for very high wind resistance. The heavy beams are very efficiently used. As a structures engineer, I am delighted to see this innovative method of building. Add curved glue-lam beams for the roof and the aerodynamics create a building that is hurricane proof. If needed, corners of reinforced concrete could be added to give the rounded shapes needed for aerodynamic efficiency and strength. Amazing set of ideas. Thank you.

A friend gave me a load of Sawdust for making fire balls which I did but being a mainstream and alternative den builder I binned some cement into it and made bricks a gravestone( one of my dogs died old age) . I repaired an Adobe wall with it ( bad boy) that was when my plastering demon got excited, the rear of the barn where we are renting had been neglected and the lime wash had fallen off , no one sells hydrated lime locally so I tried just dust and water, binned it on like adobe and trowelled flat , left it to dry, didn't Crack or fall off I didn't use a mechanical key or chemical sealant, just threw it on. I then limewashed it which puts a mm protective coat on. I only coated half because I was building a coop. The raw coat is on after winter, some minor cracks but nothing a coat of wash wouldn't finish. Water,Sawdust elbow grease. Some dust works better, the finer the smoother , mix smooth with rough to get a good workable sticky mix, even mdf dust works. I've used it all over this property in Ukraine, render patch ups. Hole filling, even stands up to floor repairs!! Chuffed to have stumbled on this video because I have my house to finish down south when the Russians have fkd off, then I want to expand to help others. It's a cheap to free material, super strong, water proof and insulating. I soaked a brick in a bucket for four days, no swelling distortion or deep penetration. The render does shrink a little but no more than any expensive acrylic planet killing mix. Good work fella, sorry for the essay, but I'm excited about this stuff.

Besides learning about dustcrete, I just liked the fact that the air-conditioning unit is installed face outside and back inside for heating..

Twenty modern engineers won't touch a man like you! I embrace the KISS method. Excellent tutorial and thank you for sharing Sir.

I seen a simlar cabin in Colorado 1990's built back in the 70's this was a timber frame cabin with cedar shakes siding outside but interior was made a cedar saw dust and lime mixer and set in a similar fashion but they use a mold to shape it like logs on the interior once cured it was stain and painted to look like the real thing! I stay there for several days before I realized it! Thanks for sharing

Sawdust and cement was the magical recipe used by the British in the construction of the 'Mulberry Harbour' caissons towed to Normandy for D-Day +1. The fact so many of the structures still litter the beaches of Northern France to this very day is testament to the durability of the material.

When I saw the consistency of the dustcrete early in the film, I immediately knew it would be pretty strong, insulate well, and be easy to work with. I have a feeling this will take off!

Very informative vid. Your invention is simple, sturdy and not complicated. Less is more!

That looks real good. Looks faster than earth bags, and slip forms. Good idea.

What a beautiful structure! Thanks for teaching us how to do this.

Thank you for having the patiens to record so others can see. Great job!

Just when I thought I'd seen every type of wall out there..........you go and blow my socks off! This is going to be what I build my greenhouse out of. Thanks

Nice use of all of that sawdust! Looks great! 😎

Great video! This is a great way to use an byproduct what is affordable and more than manageable to work with. Looking forward to seeing the lime coat going on. And thanks for the recipe!!

From where I am, it is an old technique (from ancient times) to build with all kind of sawdust wood with natural lime. The right mixt depends of what you find localy. Are some materials that you can't use because are not fiabile with lime. But here are barns and houses build with this principle over 500 y.o. and are stil standing, regardless that are in the mountains and in seismic area. I love when someone use it and try it with what it find în his/her area. It is saying that nothing is new invented, but only rediscovered through' self ADN memory. Good job!

Oh, I missed this intro referencing hempcrete! Really cool invention!

Great idea and thank you for putting together this clear instructional video. I like how you've come up with a way to allow the timber frame to be revealed inside and out, one that uses mostly local materials and is something an owner/builder with some time and energy can do on a budget. I'll keep an eye out for your plaster video too!

Reminds me of old medieval wattle-and-daub construction. Very energy efficient and low-budget. I worry about its viability in high-humidity environments (I live in southern louisiana, humidity rarely drops below 60%), but in dryer climates, this might be a fantastic walling option.

Soviets called this stuff "arbolit", and the hemp variety was called "kostrobeton". There's a plenty of 50-70 year old buildings made from this stuff still in good condition all over the ex-USSR.

Well done for creating the product and the method of construction - your presentation was also very good and clearly demonstrated. What struck me is that it is still labour intensive. I think the idea could be capitalised on by having a mechanised production line for creating the dustcrete sections or blocks that would interconnect. You could even have specialised sections with channels and box holes for electrical wiring.

Wow. I am impressed how one can use such simple materials to build and insulate at the same time. I feel like trying it on my stone walls for more insulation! Thank you very much! Appreciated! 🙏

This looks amazing. @13:07 I would have like to see you work around the outlet box. @16:30 the snowball part was very helpful of you to mention.

Thanks for the workshop on how to make this great product, I have a machine shop in Bulgaria and make windows and doors open for clients, I have just started insulating between the posts with this, can't wait to skim it with pure lime plaster to finish

Wow! Thank you SO much for making this video. (And for making the dustcrete.)

Oh, started watching it.... Don't know about you "inventing" it, but you were smart enough to take an old idea and put it to good use.

This is amazing - thank you for taking the time to make a video of this for us

I'd been looking at using sawdust and lime for quite a while as we've a local sawmill. But I grow a fair amount of willow too, for various uses. So, I bought a small forest chipper to process the waste, and found it too binds well together with lime or clay, although I'd only trust the clay version as an infill. My lime sample went like stone in a few months, so that's my choice for a free-standing wall. I'm in the UK, so we have non-dolomitic lime and the grade I used was NHL3.5. I try to steer clear of portland, but your results are impressive.

This structure using the 2x3 in the center is very clever. Thank you for sharing your genius and creativity

Your building style looks near like my house Where i live it's red hardwood and red clay gold area. These old heritage cottages of the era are a challenge to maintain. Although the photographers love snapping B&W photos of them all weekend round

Brilliant!❤ ingenuity in action right there! Thanks for sharing👍

Great content , dude . I have been interested in foamed cement and aircrete and now dustcrete . I like the look of the final product .

I like the process. I do have couple of suggestions you might want to look into. 1) Run your wiring through Conduit before adding the concrete, in case you need to replace it at some point. 2) Consider adding Bonding Agent to your Concrete mix as it will hold up better over time. 3) Consider adding a small amount of Plastizer to the Concrete mix as well. The concrete will not only flow better, but will add significant strength to the walls, consider you dont use a lot of water. 4) you might want to consider using a 3/4 Fiberglass or Basalt filament to your mix for additional strength. Overall I love how you've done this!

Its a great idea to save $$$$. The only difference I would do put a radiant barrier and no sliding door.

Thats excellent mate. Love the Blues slide guitar also. Well done👍

I really like this, very creative concept, very nice design, great technique that accommodates normal skill levels! Kudos.

Great process and technique. A wonderful use local materials too.

Thank you for all the hard work making the video!

Beautifully done, this gets my noggin joggin on some ideas I can implement locally. Excellent video!

One thing I am not sure about in this mix is the need for lime. Portland cement is made from limestone and clay to form a synthetic mineral that forms rock like crystals when wetted that can stick other rocks, or in this cases chunks o sawdust together. The other way to make concrete type materials is to use quicklime or hydrated lime to “activate” alumina, silica and iron containing materials like clay, rocks formed from volcanic ash (like the Romans) or power station fly ash. This is how the special French lime works. In both cases, high silica content plant materials like straw, hemp or some sawdusts will get stuck to the binder due to the silica they contain. I think this might work with just cement powder although the lime may help with ensuring the bond to the sawdust. In a very dry mix like this, regularly wetting the surface with a fine spray for the first week or so should help long term wall strength. I would also leave the wall exposed for 3-4 weeks before plastering. Great idea, I’ll look out to see the final result.

I like that you used the PEX tubing - it will afford mounting points for the lathe/stucco wire mat as well.

you are a true engineer, and your execution is excellent

The combined power of wood and concrete, you got me wanting to try it.

Very nice! I've seen talk of the hempcrete and the styrocrete, but it always seemed more bother than not since you have to buy in those oddball components which only drives up the costs. Sawdust, though, is available locally and for pennies. Thanks for the quality tutorial. Definitely something I'll share around.

TimberCrete is the trademark for many "sawDust concrete" products in Australia and the British Empire. Very fine material and extensively used in housing and commercial construction.

Greetings from Ireland. A lovely, well made video and you found a use for a byproduct of another industry. When I was 12 years years old we built on a kitchen and a bathroom. I like the way that you mixed the dustcrete. When we mixed concrete using shovels, the mantra was mix it twice dry and twice wet. Thank you.

Man I really like this technique, cheers from México.

Consider using tex screws for shuttering instead. They can be taken out easier, without occasional broken bits our rounded heads slowing you down. Great video, thank you!

Incredible sir. Very inspiring ❤

It is a good life that is being well lived when you find time for projects like this. tHanks for the video, very interesting.

Excellent job from the use of local materials and application. What a cool process.

I'm very intrigued with your technique. I've purchased a property with plenty of eastern red cedar and I'm anxious to try cordwood. But your dustcrete method would definitely be quicker. I may first try it on a shop or garage space. Glad to see you back and look forward to more of your great content!

What a brilliant idea! Thank you! I think I would add some type of texture to the outside. Maybe Wainscoting? Or stone texture? Similar to how concrete pads are stamped.

You did the best job on the video that I've seen in ages!

I like both the look and the color to it as well, GREAT JOB!!

I haven't seen it in the comments yet, but has an r value been calculated yet? Love the concept and thinking of using it in my next passive solar project. GOD Bless.

Beautiful & brilliant. I really love it! I only wonder if it might be best to enclose your wiring in a metal conduit before closing it into the dustcrete, in case it ever had to be redone...

This was amazing to me. I operate a loader at a pellet plant , truck loads of dust , you’ve given me a new idea. Thank you. 😊

Дом, милый дом. Good job!

Nice! Sawdust improves acoustical. There is a proprietary sound barrier sawdust-cement formulation used somewhere in Europe that is very successful at not reflecting sound. A kid made his master's thesis on trying to duplicate the effect with aircrete and unfortunately could not.

Wow, shares the actual formula, Thanks ! At 10:32 15 parts sawdust 2 parts Portland cement 2 parts type S lime 4 parts water

This looks like a great product, I wouldn’t have thought about this but it makes sense and appears to work really well. Thanks for sharing this

Awesome technique! Really love how it looks.

I know that your intention with this material was for infill, but do you have any plans to test it out structurally? Maybe a project similar to a rammed earth wall? I am curious as to how it might perform used in that way.

What a fantastic idea! I wonder if you can mix sawdust into aircrete? The paste consistency seems nice to work with.

Thank you, I’m happy to learn something new and this is a great idea. Thumbs up from Portugal!

This is a great option to form walls. Thanks for sharing this type of information

Looks pretty cool, it could make for great construction projects, low-cost sheds walls and chicken coups and many other uses. I wonder what the R value would be? Could be a great alternative to rockwool insulation from a price point.

This is an excellent video, on many levels. I see great potential in this wall system. It obviously works well as presented. Do you think there would be any advantage to painting the exterior ply forms for easy release and durability? Maybe just not necessary. Mesh sheeting could go down before plastering, if you need more strength. Mix some thinset with type S mortar for a rock hard scratch coat. You could add color pigment to that if you want an adobe look that ties the structure visually to the earth.

Great idea, I have land in pike national forest and have researching different building ideas. The cord wall and dust crete will look beautiful together. I am going to try this Thank You.

This is incredibly beautiful work. I am amazed. Thank you for sharing.

Very interesting. I would be concerned about shrinkage where the dustcrete meets the structural members. Have you had enough time to test for shrinkage? Any thoughts about adding reinforcement or some kind of membrane to the field? Thanks

Wow, dustcrete is genius brother. I looked into the hemp crete but sawdust is much easier to get and a whole cheaper. Is it holding up well? Did you all ready plaster? What material did you use for the ceiling?

I love the look ! The board forms leave a nice look 😊

Thanks once again, Greatly appreciated and all the best to you too :)

Interesting. I recall about 30 years ago a neighbor of mine tried making concrete using sawdust. He experimented and abandoned the project. His was much wetter in the traditional way concrete was made. He ended up with a material that was not very strong and came apart easily. It was sort of like a sandstone concrete. I wonder how water infiltration and freeze thaw cycles effect this? Wood can absorb water; and water can freeze and destroy concrete. I always support experimentation, but don't really know what is going to happen. Hardy board is a similar type of concrete wood mixture. There is no chicken wire or other metal reinforcement in the wall. If historical research could show how similar materials have stood the test of time, or how this is just a minor change to an existing technique that might be beneficial. Obviously, you plan to keep this dry, sealed in a wall. Walls are great places to keep things dry. Some portions of the country are going to have freezing temperatures reaching deep into the walls, (at least occasionally in extreme weather events) and moisture, in both condensation, floods, and plumbing leaks is a real pain to home builders. Both wood and concrete have done ok in this regard. Historically, sawdust has been used as an insulation, or to fill walls before modern insulations became available. Today, cellulose insulation, (generally from newspapers), is basically a wood product with a few anti-bug products added. Good luck. Neat project.

Little concerned about all those tube spacers as penetration points. Is this material similar to Perves concrete ? Do you use a vapor barrier between the Dustcrete and the OSB sheeting on the outside ? Does it have an estimated R- value per thickness ? Looks like a time-consuming prosses but if it's an efficient cheap wall insulator and it works great. Great Video !

Very nice! I’ve been brewing on your method for quite a while now. Going to use it. Thank you Sir!

Excellent idea and demonstration! Thanks!

A few questions.. What is your gut feeling about the insulative ability of the Dustcrete compared to the cordwood? I understand the need to plaster the exterior.. but do you think it would be possible to attach foam board ( to improve the R Value?) to the interior using the hole from the slip form, and finish the interior with drywall, or another surface? Lastly, what roof overhang do you think should be a guideline to prevent excessive wetting of the plaster over time? Lastly, thank you for doing these videos, your professional presentation and production values are a wonderful compliment to your ability to get the information out.

I absolutely loved your video. Plus your explanations are so complete and clear. THANK YOU!!! I do have a few questions, though: • Would the dustcrete mixture ruin the concrete floor if it gets on the slab - especially if the floors will eventually be finished using an acid wash method? • What’s the maximum height the walls should be to ensure the walls remain stable? • Should all exterior wood be covered with the lime stucco? • Will the wood eventually rot from the dustcrete mixture? • Do you use hydrated or hydraulic lime? If it’s hydraulic lime, what’s your source? • Do you have a cost estimate per cubic foot of the wall? And do you recommend a 10” wall thickness? • What method would you use for internal walls?? • I will use a hydraulic lime stucco on the outside, but can I use an earthen/clay stucco on the inside - and does it adhere to the dustcrete very well? Should the lime stucco be applied BEFORE the clay stucco on the INSIDE if I needed to repair a crack? • What do you do to ensure the clay will stick to the walls on the inside of the dustcrete walls (lath, mesh?) • Do termites go after the sawdust? • What about thermal mass... and what is R-Value of a 10” wall, more or less? • Since you had trouble with a cold joint on the wall you demonstrated in the video, have you figured out how to prevent the problem? I assume unless I build an entire section, from bottom to top, I would have problems with cold joints as well…. but THEN, wouldn’t there be a problem with joining two sections that were side by side? • Would the final stucco using the hydraulic lime mend the crack? Again, thank you for coming up with this wonderful idea! 🙏🤗👍

Love this method and salute you for your love to the planet💪 salutations from 🇵🇦

Thanks mate. Really enjoyed your preso and learnt a few more tricks for hempcreting.

Is there a reason you do it in such small lines? Or is there a drawback to doing larger sections at a time?

Brilliant. Can't wait to see the longevity. I'm reminded of sand walls/rammed earth made from 10% Portland, local dirt and sand heavily compressed as you build up. Your method looks faster. Here's the video where I learned about rammed earth. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itCperKA2bWqmZ8.html

Thankyou so much for sharing your techniques and recipe with society!

Thanks bro. great idea. excellent advice. this is the smartest solution I have seen so far....

Just as a hint from a master of construction: If You have the consistency like that, You propably would'nt need the boards as a mold at all. I think You could just have the exterior chip board and then jam pack the stuff until you are in the correct thickness. You could propably do it a lot faster.

Love the process and the ingenuity of cresting a Hempcrete cousin Sawcrete!

The sound at 12:06 is like a cartoon punch. Great work!

Excellent skill set brother.

I enjoy your videos and thank you for sharing this information with us.

Thank you for sharing this priceless knowledge. I greatly appreciate it.👍 Take Care

If only commercial builders would adopt this method; no more saw dust in the land fill. Clever. Thanks for sharing.

That's pretty clever kind of like a thermal Mass with an insulator without no colder heat transfer been in construction for 70 years never seen anything like it definitely cost efficient and I just happen to be good at stuck and plastering she looks sharp when it's done 👍 longevity is there