Baseline timing doesn’t have an impact on power. Total timing and when it comes in does, you want 34-36 degrees total and sooner. If you had 18 initial and factory settings in dist, then you had 18+23 = 41 total timing = too much. You tune this based on the springs and bushing in your distributor. Get an MSD ready to run, get the lightest springs (small grey) and the thickest bushing (black). This brings on total timing sooner and tightens the timing curve, so you can have more initial to help get your engine snappier sooner. And keep totals timing at that 34-36 where it’s happy.

Great car, Andy! Looks like we're practically neighbors too. It would be fun to meet up and get a closer look at your car. 👍

Good gains. I can tell you how to time it. I’ve done this myself (mechanic). First thing is the timing mark on the pulley or the pointer can sometimes be out. You can work out TDC by putting something in number 1 plug hole and going one way until it touches and other way until it touches and then mark halfway between. That’s real top dead centre. In the end what matters is the timing at each rise in rpm. So using a dyno is the best. At full throttle with dyno controlling the rpm let the engine up by 500 rpm at a time so let’s start at say 2000rpm full throttle dyno holding revs you adjust the distributer to get the max power at that rpm. Note that timing eg best power is at 13 degrees at those rpm, then 2500rpm do the same it might be 14 degrees, 3000RPM same might be 16 degrees etc. you end up with a graph of the best timing, a curve for each 500rpm. Then you change the advance weights and or springs to make your distributor match that curve. (I know you can go an electronic dizzy with computer controlled timing, but I’m talking to suit these old engines as is) So in the end your distributor advance curve matches your best power through all rpm. Of course you then need the mixtures to be set for the best power too. This will give you the best power from your engine. Now air can be oxygen leaner or richer depending on altitude and conditions so in my opinion once you get the perfect timing curve worked out I would knock it back 2 degrees as a safety margin for variations in fuel and air quality so it doesn’t ping or knock when the octane or air is a bit off or hotter etc. The vacuum advance is just there to improve fuel economy as when not at wide open throttle the timing can be advance some without the engine knocking and that is what it does. Remember back in the day some cars were faster than others while all completely stock. This tuning whether on purpose or by accident is why some were much faster than others. It is how you make the most of your car. Fine tuning timing and mixture. Engines feel crisp and responsive, just really alive when this is done right.

Dude! I’m so happy for you! That is tremendous. What a great motor motor🤘🤘🤘🤘 so epic to see your 66 coming together 🤙🤙

Awesome! I was looking forward to this video since your Instagram post!

VERY cool, congrats man - it's taken a lot to get here. Now drive and enjoy (and post some vids of it rippin!)

Awesome, great engine build and work you’ve put into it. Badass cruiser 😎

Great video Andy thanks.

Very impressive! Very cool content!

I lOVE HOW YOURS TURNED OUT, HAD MY SUNBEAM TIGER FOR 48 YEARS, SO I GET IN IT, AND I AM 26 YEARS OLD AGAIN.

Great numbers Andy!

Beautiful sound! Great job on the build too, I’ve used a lot of your experiences while I’m working on my 66

Outstanding!

Andy you are the best! Your car is exquisite. What a journey you have taken. I appreciate the content as I am restoring my own '66 fastback.

Dude!! Those numbers are crazy good! Love the adjusting carb jets to spot any difference, great vid 🤘🏼

Love it Andy, one nice Mustang!

The car sounds amazing!!!

Impressive numbers Andy!

Great Power and She Sounds Great Well Done 👍 👌👍👌

Beautiful car! Enjoy.

Looking sweet.

Excellent!

Love the car thanks for showing the Dyno nice horsepower

Awesome results! Tuning helped you with a better AFR, less timing, and more power. Win-win-win. Nice torque curve too.

Congratulations Andy. Man, that's awesome. Not even sure if my Mustang could turn those heavy rollers lol.

380 after heat soak, that's great! Congrats Andy!

Man im here to tell you she sounds good and 380 Hp is plenty to put down nice video

Great Numbers. I just finished my 347 last night that’s going in my 65. I used a OE roller block with a set of AFR 165 heads and a Lunati 218/228 536/536 on a 112 HR with 9.75-1 compression. I know the heads are a little small but I already had them. I’m hoping I’ll be around 385-400 CRANK HP maybe 340 or so at the wheels. I love your car sweet ride!

that almost exactly matches the 2012-2013 BOSS 302... well done..

When it comes to carbs, it's not that the filter is restrictive. What's happening is the abrupt 90deg direction change causes the carb inlet itself to artificially act smaller. Without the filter it mostly funnels straight in. If you use a tall velocity stack shaped base on it, you'll pick that 5hp back up plus some - but obviously need to ruin the look of the car to do so.

Interesting. Chasing the dragon. I like it.

Long road to get there but you hung in there and did it. Congratulations! Now don’t touch it haha enjoy and work on the truck! Haha jkjk I know we can never stop

My Chrysler 383 hit 455hp and about the same torque on the engine dyno. I have no idea if it can pull these numbers to the rear wheels. Very impressive for sure.

Good video Andy....I'm running a 302 roller cam with steel crank and 8.5 compression with a blower, Fords H/P aluminum heads with headers H.I. ignition in a 1926 Ford Model T.(show car) If I was to Dyno test it I don't believe it would make quite the H/P you got, maybe close but doubt it. Well Done!

Andy it looks good and drives well

K&N makes a filter top increasing flow. Seems Ford`s like ported vac for vacuum advance while some Chevy`s like manifold vacuum.

Andy if you're happy I am happy too

Well worth the money output. Imo

Suggests for future improvements, high back bucket seats and shoulder belts.

awesome,im happy for you Andy.Great mustang!!! what part of Washington are you in ? Looks like the east side. im in western Oregon.

I hope you figured out that your interior light was on, with a dead battery you won’t have any horsepower. Enjoyed the video!

Getty up! Look at the pony run!

Great video! I have a 67 I’m working on right now. Have a 351w I’m rebuilding and it’s at the machine shop now. It won’t let me post the link, but google search edelbrock air filter and check out the triangular one. It’s low profile and wide open mesh, without a solid metal top. I had one on my last 65. Might give you good flow.

I had a 347 in a 92 thunderbird. Never had it dynod but it definently rolled.

Great news in the HP. Question on the center stripe, did you get it painted on?

its not the initial timing that makes the peak horsepower. its about the ignition timing curve. lets say you have initial of 10 and youre total timing is 32 you can also put initial on 18 and change the timing curve(race distributor) so you get tesame 32 total timing for peak horsepower but the 10 to 18 initial timing will give you a snappier throtllre from idle. i have a 331 stroker with 10.5/1 compression and a pertronix billet distributor where i can change the timing curve(how fast it gives total timing) i have 18 initial and 32 total in at 2500 rpm . my idle with vacuum advance (manifold ) is at 28 and cruise is at 42 so i can burn a leaner mixture of +-15afr. nice to see that youre engine gives you more power then you payed for 🙂

Awesome Andy!! How big is your smile??

Andy what is the model number for the front directional lights you used on the new front scoop?

Hey Andy nice video.......what did your 'total' timing number end up being?

I'd love to get our cars together........your finished car is very close to mine. My motor is rated at 300HP and with the 2.79 rear gear is MORE than fast enough for me. Thanks

A 150 shot of nitrous would be a nice addition

at first I thought that was kind of low, but then I realized it was hp at the wheel, and you're well over 400 at the crank. don't get into to much trouble haha.

Just curious from an idiot here. Why are the front wheels tied to not go backwards if the car is going forwards on the Dino. Thanks.

Running 69.50 in primary jets with a 289, I have modified J code 4V 302 heads they have larger Ferrea stainless steel high flow valves with stock A code flat top pistons, my cam is a Mega 285 108LC with .512 lift or .551 net lift at the valve seat. I'm running a 78 as my secondary with a modified Holley 1850 600CFM main body has 3310-1 metering plates on it, and center pivot floats, and the 3310-1 750 base plate. I'm run 14 degrees initial, with 32 total with no vacuum can all in by 2500rpm. I've been thinking 28-30 degrees total might be better but has not been on the dyno yet. Using a blue printed Carter mechanical M60454, my factory pump could not keep up with higher rpms.

What distributor are you running?

You can get more power with a Victor Jr or Parker intake

How much did it cost you for the conversion and transmission?

What was your total timing at what rpm?

Was it me or did it sound like your engine was ticking when he was checking the timing

You would make alot more power with a Victor Jr intake and afr 205's.

put it on a hub dyno and you might find more H.P. the old style dynos have too much wheel slip and are not accurate anymore !

For air filter 2 words……. Salad Bowl

All this effort to get smoke by a young dude at a red light driving 2011 or newer mustang gt. 😂

.. i'd try a bigger Carb .. 👨‍🔧🧰😼🚀