Glad to hear that! :)

I'm glad that it's still helping :). You are welcome.

Thanks for the comment. You are a lot welcome :) Yes, that is correct - the position of the turbine has tight tolerance and it easy can hit the casing. Normally, it fits well if stop applying force once the turbine hits the shaft's step, during the installation, however sometimes it may happen as your case. This is one of the reasons for my recommendation to print it 97-98% of its original size. I'm glad that you've fixed it! :)

I'm glad that the video is still helping.

Thanks for your comment. That is a great advice to preheat the caps before demount! Have used a hot air gun or something else?

A heat gun would be awesome, but I don't have one so I just held the parts above the fired up stove -- low enough to soak in the heat, but not too low so it would melt, definitely not on the open flame. It only took 30 seconds or so of heat, and then I could pry it off with a bit of effort - make sure you wear some protective gloves though.

@@ghelazar I like the out-of-the-box solutions :) I'm also using the gas stove to solder/desolder components from aluminum-based PCBs, even though that I've got a hot air gun. It works pretty well by adjusting the height to control the temperature :).

Hi, There is a locking feature (ring) on the top of the internal part which goes in a groove on the lid. There is nearly 360° grip and that makes it difficult to remove. In addition, there is a little foam gasket with light adhesive compound on it, but this is not even close to the strength of the locking ring. Heating up wold help and you might try it by pulling by hand or using something soft after you heat it. However, bear in mind that if you are heat it and using sharp tools such as screwdrivers, you might leave a permanent plastic deformation of the lid edge. I would not recommend placing in the freezer, as then the plastic will become harder and more brittle. You might try a little bit of heat (50°C) and try to pick it with a couple of small screwdrivers trying only on one half of the circumference an then stick some piece of tin (precut thin metal sheet) and then try the other side with he screwdrivers. Mind the sharp edges of the tin - to not cut your skin. It's high likely that you might have some marks after all.

Hello, Thank you for the feedback. I'm glad that the video was helpful :). Designing a new turbine is not an easy task, so congratulations about that. I guess you have already checked the things, which I will mention, however I've created an additional video by your request. It is about to test the performance of the main unit and show the normal behaviour of the mechanism of the DC23 head. Please find the video in the link, below or in my KZfaq channel: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtF6ecx2qbiVYqs.html

I had the same issue at beginning, the iron axis was too much inserted, I warmed it again , pull it a little and cut 1mm at the top of blades : no more frictions

selamlar baskıyı nerede yaptırdınız ve ne kadara mal oldu ?

@@atahanayaz9875 merhaba,3D atölye -K.yaka02323365653-50tl.iyi günler...

Bende deneyeceğim bakalım nasıl olacak.

Hello, Sorry for the delayed reply. Yes, the bottom plate does have a gasket. The material is some kind of semihard foam and its profile is rectangular (approx 3x4 mm). It is split between the front and the rear part.

Thanks for the comment. That may happen too. I guess in this case the manufacturer tolerance of the impeller has been higher, hence the press-fit -weeker. Normally there are tiny cracks around the shaft's press-fit and they cannot be seen if you don't try to stretch the place. However, in your case, you should have seen the crack after you assembled it with the tape added, hence no cracks in your turbine :). In case there are cracks, but the impellers look good overall, they might be glued, like in some of the comments below. Thanks again! Good feedback :)

@@dimchohvarchilkov683 Thank you for your comments, I watched your video on the dismantel of the roller head and thought about trying to glue the shaft to the impeller but the fit was not tight enough. Other people looking for a solution to resolve this problem now have ideas that will fix this for them without the cost of a new complete roller head. Thank you for the video..

@@alexmiller68 You are most welcome :)

Если вы будете очень нежны и терпеливы, вы сможете удалить их почти бесследно. Я просто хотел поскорее открыть его и посмотреть, нужно ли его починить. :) If you are very gentle and patient you could remove them almost without a trace. I just wanted to open it quickly and see if it is worthed to be fixed.

Hello, the best option would be if you know someone with a 3D printer, or use some 3D printing shops. It is not difficult to print. If you cannot find any options I could print you one for free. You just need to arrange the shipping. As I got few requests until now, I will consider to print few of these and place them on eBay at the cost, a bit more than just the matetial and the electricity....

@@dimchohvarchilkov683 Thanks for the reply. I might be able to get someone to print one. I couldn’t find the link to the model however, could you repost on this thread please? If not do let me know and I would definitely buy one you’ve made on eBay! Just think of all the broken machines you could save going to landfill by printing parts and giving them a new lease of life - amazing!

@@jennydavies3435 No worries. I'm glad to help :) I've just tried the link in the description and it seems it's still alive. However, there it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:34563 If you struggle to download it, please let me know and we may transfer it another way. P.S. - I'm planning to release the eBay variant soon, as I agree that there is more life in these heads. I haven't believed that so many people would like to repair them, at the moment I've released the video...

@@dimchohvarchilkov683 hiya dimcho, a friend of a friend 3D printed one for me but it looks all rough on the surface, not smooth like yours. You can see the layers and the edges are bumpy as a result which will affect performance. Any ideas for what went wrong? If not I would be very willing to buy one off you and could transfer you money as a thank you gesture?

@@jennydavies3435 Hey Jenny, don't bother at all that the surface is rough. I've printed mine at 0.12 and 0.16 mm layer height instead of the default resolution of 0.2mm per layer. Yes, it has been a bit smoother but the 3D prints are rough by default and it needs post-processing (sanding, polishing, thermal, etc). I can send you detailed photos and you may see that my turbines are not perfect indeed. One you could do is to remove eventual strings and small sharp bumps by using a gas burner, as I did in the video. Just be careful as holding the heat could melt and deform the geometry. Otherwise, just mount it on the shaft and give it a try :) It should be fine. Good luck! :)

Hello, Apologies for the delayed reply. I don't know if you manage to find/print a turbine. I could print you one for free. You just have to arrange transport.

@@dimchohvarchilkov683 Hi, Thanks for getting back to me. That's very kind of you offer me one for free. I don't need one now as I fixed my broking one by heating up two old keyrings, One small & one bigger, I melted the smaller one close to the centre & the larger one nearer the outside making sure they were both level with the surface so as not to foul anything. I must say that it works a treat & I'm pretty sure their won't be any problems from now. Again many thanks for your offer in printing me one. Many thanks & stay safe from this nasty covid 19.

@@michaelp3106 That's a good approach if the shaft whole is still circular. Ours was pretty worn and shaped like an uneven, excentric oval - very fard to balance. Moreover, the blades at one of the sides were ~30% worn out as the friction to the case. I'm glad that it worked for you :).

Hi, I printed two pcs yesterday. I'll put them on eBay at a symbolic price, in favour of the DIY community, in the next days :). I'll put a comment that this is not an original component and it is a raw 3D printed component which does the job.

@@dimchohvarchilkov683 Super, I will keep a lookout for it. Thank you. Will

@@willwaier1149 Hi Will, I listed it yesterday evening, but it seems that it still not published. I guess it needs some time...

@@dimchohvarchilkov683 i will keep an look out. Just checked and don’t see it yet

@@willwaier1149 Hi Will, please see my comment in the thread above. Apologies.

That I a very good tip and it is worth it to give it a try. :) The trouble is that the 3D printed holes are often smaller in diameter than in the 3D design file, especially for holes less than 5...10 mm. For instance, 1mm hole could be clogged completely. Freezer/hot water trick may work well if the hole is predrilled with 4.9...5mm drill bit at very slow RPM.

Hi, I have 3D printed it. There is a link in the description, where you may find the 3D model.

@@albert.h Apologies for the delayed reply. I've already got attention on myself with this, so I could have legal issues if I do it! Please look for 3D printing services near your place. There are many shops, which providing 3D printing. There is a link to the 3D model of the turbine in tge description of the video.

Thanks for offering to do this at least. Your video has been very helpful. I am trying to find someone with a 3D printer who can print one for me. Please can you send us the 3D printer link again? I can’t find it. Diana

Lol, Dyson doesn’t care if replicas are made. Look at every battery and part listed on Amazon and eBay, none are oem