Make sure the thermostat is tight before you install it, mine was finger loose out of the box. I bought the fittings from Speedway Motors. There are a good bunch of car guys there and they have a good tech dept where you can talk to people who actually have turned a few wrenches. Unfortunately the guy I spoke with had never personally used this cooler take off so he could not tell me what actually happens with a 45 vs a 90 fitting. He did search a few photos online and emailed them to me, and all of them used 90s on both ends, with the bottom hose dipping down sharply. Personally, I want both hoses to stay up close passing under the engine mount. So I tried a 45 in there and got it to work, only because there is enough room laterally to crisscross the hoses where they interfere. I may be the only guy who has tried this and posted it online, I don't know.

Glad to help.

Just found your video, great helpful video. I'm doing this process right now, ordering parts on PayDay next week. I've also seen guys keep the factory oil cooler. Cut the lines put AM fittings on and run to a 13 row stacked plate oil cooler.. My car is a daily driver with 305 sbc motor that i'm pulling out next weekend.. This my motor build Lm7 5.3 bored .020 over, stage 2 sloppy Cam, 7 qt. Oil pan with baffles, long tube headers, LSA Supercharger with reinforced bric, 2.50 upper pulley & stock lower pulley ..

@@pucegtr I did the same thing long ago with a stock GM oil cooler take off, I cut the steel tubing just forward of the engine mount, put 37 deg flares on it and transitioned to -AN fittings and hoses from there. The nice thing about the stock take off is it runs both lines straight forward and fits neatly along side the engine. I had to take it out when I restored the truck because the steel tubing got rusty. Rusty steel lines will spring leaks, I've already had that happen before on steel power steering lines. Happened twice on 2 different vehicles. I thought the GM take off had no thermostat in it but I was wrong. When I cut the thing up to scrap it for the aluminum block I found a thermostatic valve in there. It is made very neat and compact. I also have an oil filter take off on the engine now, going to a double oil filter mount with 2 large can oil filters on it. A nice upgrade if you have the room to hang the filter mount. I bolted it on the front cross member of the frame on a mount I welded up myself. I can't remember who made the take off right now but it's a nice strong billet one, not one of the cheesy cast aluminum ones. My brother has one of those intercooled Edelbrock superchargers on a 406 LSX stroker in an '85 SS Monte Carlo, chassis is built, 9" Ford style rear end, 4L80e trans, etc, that thing is sick.

@@onemoremisfit Thanks again for your reply and info it really helps.. I got a GM oil cooler take off. I'm gonna go that route first. By cutting the lines, putting AN fittings on and run them to a 13 row oil cooler.. Your brother's right sounds Sic, Tell them I sayed congrats on it. This motor is going in my 84 chevy caprice landau, im the third owner of it.. I also have a 1963 Chevy impala super sport. I plan on building a 408 stroker with LSA super charger on it. Got my hands-on a Gen. 3 6.0 LS

@@pucegtr If you are in the rust belt, coat the steel lines with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum. I have been using this on everything, I've also been using POR 15 and I like the Eastwood better because it goes on thick with a brush. Then spray it with CRC marine heavy duty corrosion inhibitor coating goo, or if you don't paint it then at least coat it with the goo. That silver paint or plating that GM puts on the lines is no protection at all. I have another long video where I talk about anti rust coatings I have used and how they work.

I wonder if they made 60 deg fittings 4 years ago when I was putting this together, because if they did then I missed them in all the searching I was doing back then. Also saw many photos of guys using a pair of 90s with this takeoff, no photos of a 60 deg fitting being used. The photos were from a support guy when I contacted them for suggestions on plumbing for this takeoff, he searched them up and emailed them to me. I reckon I'll redo the whole thing when I'm all out of other stuff to do, lol.

The stock GM takeoff has both pipes coming out straight forward. I'd like to see Earl's make a fitting at the correct angle to match up with the angle on their takeoff with it so it goes straight forward. There is no reason why not except maybe they don't feel like doing it.

@@onemoremisfit agreed I was referring to the size and shape earls made there’s. If they did the size of the stock GM they could have them at a better angle. I’m assuming that since they went bigger maybe better flow 🤷‍♂️ but not sure why they did the design they did.

@@Moore257The difference with the GM unit is it has hard pipe straight out of the takeoff, not threaded fittings, and it's made to go to the LH side tank of the radiator that has an intercooler for engine oil built into it. I had one of those on the truck for years. I modified it by cutting the hard pipe and transitioning to -AN hose fittings an running hose to an air cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I had to take it out because the steel hard pipes got rusty. Then I went to the Earl's takeoff. I don't think there is any difference in flow, the hard pipes on the GM unit were the same ID as what you get with the #10-AN, about 1/2".