Thanks so much to everyone commenting here! Really appreciate all your feedback! Listen and learn they say, please keep up supporting me with your feedback so I can produce even better content for you! Have a great day you all!

thank you for sharing your knowledge. we rarely ever see any demonstrations offered by Earl Stickland. i would like to see more of your demos as well. thank you

Wow works for me. Been having trouble with this shot. Only missed one out of 30 shots. Love it.

For me, the easiest way to remember this particular shot is this: First, it comes up fairly frequently, both on the long and the short rails; the technique is the same. If the object ball (in this case leading to the 9) is left of the cue, apply high right english. Then the opposite would have to be correct; that is, if the object ball (again to position for the 9) is right of the cue, you need left english to go around table. Earl is phenomenal about moving the cueball around and this is a great tribute to him..keep going, players !!

Thank you! Great video. I teach this all the time to players and have used it for years. I actually know who Earl learned this from. The gent who showed me used to play with Earl. A day after he showed me, I had to play the same guy in a tournament and beat him using it several times. He commented, "Wow! You learned that fast!" I had so much fun with it, I started using it one shots not even close to the rail (Don't Do this, but it works). The shot works because the inside spin allows the pocket to play "bigger." Each cue stick has a natural deflection, so I've had to make a minor adjustment as I moved from a high deflection shaft to a lower deflection carbon fiber or wood shaft. It's all about understanding the deflection you get with your stick. With a low deflection shaft I have to aim to the very extreme of the cue ball to aim at the middle of the object ball (almost to a miscue point but not quite). With a high deflection shaft, it moves closer to the contact point almost automatically, so I don't have to use such an extreme aim point on the cue ball. With a carbon fiber, I can hit the cueball in the same position on the cue ball, but I must adjust my aim on the object ball to avoid having to use extreme spin. I can hit closer to center ball, but still with inside spin by aiming 1 approximately 1" inch into the object ball , away from the edge of the object ball. So almost 1/2 way between the center of the object ball and the edge that's away from the pocket. It makes sense because the deflection is different. With a carbon fiber, to get the same affect spin as my high defection shaft, I've got to aim further out on the cue ball away from center ball on the object ball.. So to do this shot with the same aim point on the cueball that I use on the with a high deflection I MUST make an adjustment on the object ball. That adjustment is to 1" off the edge of the object ball.

So funny I’ve been doing this for years but never fully trusted it. The fact that earl uses it gives me more confidence. Please continuing making videos like this!

Awesome tip!!! Thanks for sharing.

Just tried this on a number of shots, it worked perfectly - I am flabbergasted!

Excellent tip! I had same tip from 2022 BCA Hall of Fame Jerry Briasath. You can also use same shot when the object ball is off rail. Thank you!

Thanks man!

Thank you! This is the PERFECT video..... for showing your opponent before a big match. Thanks!

This method turns this from a touchy inconsistent shot to almost automatic with perfect position. Very clever! Thanks for sharing

That is a great tp! If you have MORE OF THOSE KINDS OF HELPFUL TIPS i would like to hear them!

Glad this works for you. I haven’t tried this method, but I understand why you were missing the shot. Hitting the cue ball on the right side pushes it to the left of the aiming line (squirt). Dr. Dave and several other people have videos on KZfaq explaining this. Stroke power, distance, angle, etc. all play into this shot. I find it better to have more information to be able to compensate correctly for each shot I am presented with. Then practice making the same shot with different spin (inside, outside, top, draw, stop, etc.).

That’s awesome thanks for posting the video this will be fun to experiment with

Awesome tip, I will definitely try it, thanks!

Very good tip any and all tips you have gotten from Earl Strickland will be watched and shared from me.

Amazing tip and Ty for sharing brother

What a great tip!

Game changer! Thanks for that!

Thank you, I just tried the shots on my table It works great. A little weird at first, I use a version of the shot with inside English, never thinking I could use it for all shots. I really have to trust it at first, it gets easer the more you use it!!! thanks great tip!!!!!

Great tip! I would like to see techniques/tips on classic difficult shots like: jacked up over another ball, cue ball against the rail, and severe angle cut shots.

Love it!!

Very good tip, thank you.....

Thanks for this advice.

Thank you

This technique works for a wide range of shafts, if the shaft has too much or too little deflection it may not work. I also don't know why but it does. I noticed it years ago when working with spin compensation systems and using LD shafts (314, Z, etc.). I noticed after making my compensation that it looked like I was always aiming full on the ball, and furthermore my tip position was mirrored on the object ball. In otherwords, if I was using a full tip of spin, I would be aiming roughly full on the object ball and my tip would be pointed (pivoted) to that same 1 tip of spin position on the object ball. Note, this also works when applying inside for object balls that are not frozen, try it! As for limits, I find it works until close to a half ball hit (about 30 degrees), at which point there is something else that can work but it's not as obvious or nice as aiming full at the object ball. Also requires a certain speed (so the deflection happens with minimal swerve) and distance needs to be in a certain range as well. Great video, thanks for sharing!

Thanks for this! Gonna try it soon

Thanks for sharing the advice. I'll be sure and try it during my next session as I rattle this ball a lot. I'd recommend for future videos showing clips of you making the shot a bunch of times with the different variations in the way you describe. BTW the pic you put up in the beginning was from steinway not amsterdam.

Great tip. Thanks.

Did I will try this tomorrow at pool league. I've always struggled with the proper deflection angle on my object ball. Now I know that it's center ball rather than trying to play a cut. I watched you stroke it with a shallow angle & a harder angle with the same results. Kudos to you brother.

Nice work! 👍🎱

Interesting! must try it today🤝🏻

I learned this shot by accident because I kept over cutting the rail shot. So finally I just aimed straight at it with inside and it went in like magic even with extreme cuts. I bet there are lots of shots where the shooter can aim directly at the ball with inside or outside 7:05 7:05

Wow thank you for the tip, I will try it

That's a very common shot thanks for sharing! Especially that last variation with the almost straight in

Good information. I tried it and it works well. Same day I entered one of local tournaments and I was able to go 4 rails to get on my last ball and leave shape for this shot for the win. Made my last ball, got down on the shot and took it for granted. My mistake, it would have been my 2nd break and run in the match and would have won me the match, but not to be. I don't fault the shot thou. It was all in my pre-shot routine, and my lack of giving the shot the respect it deserved. Great tip, I won't miss it the next time. Thanks for sharing.

Great content and presentation. 😊

perfect! i finished almost. thankyou

Like Earl said. This "trick" only works at a certain distance. If you are close to the shot, the deflection will not be enough to pot the shot.

That's a great shot by Earl. Step by step run outs from player perspective with a go pro video would be nice. I think one thing that is missing would be one pocket bank tutorials would be nice for all players.

I just watched Earl run 130 balls in straight pool , Earl is amazing!!!

Well it's working for me pretty well so far. You need to understand deflection well but I'm gonna start putting this in my game. Great tip. Well explained.

I'll be trying this on Sunday, our practice night 👌

I always end up stunning this shot and going across table

That's excellent! I would never second guess The Pearl!

Very very interesting video! Best wishes to you!

I haven't watch all the video... But already I like you... Listening on and I just SUBSCRIBED.

To answer your question as to wouldn't lose to Earl Strickland, it's taxi drivers and women. Jokes aside, thanks for sharing this tip. I was practicing this shot a while back and came to the same conclusion that aiming full to go 3 rails forward was the best way to make the ball. However, with lower speeds (if the position doesn't require the cue ball to head back down-table) I found that to make the ball, the aiming point goes back closer to the ghost ball, since the deflection is much less. So aiming is speed dependent I found.

The reason this works is that you're causing the object ball to spin into the wall while it's sliding away from the cue ball before it begins to roll. That eliminates the bounce from the wall and glues the object ball to the wall. Yes, it works at pretty much any angle, even past 90 degrees, which seems insane, but it's true.

Different cues have different deflections. Unfortunately, there’s so many factors in deflection that this just cant work for everyone.

Omg how does this work so well? Thanks so much for sharing.

The key is, trust yourself, your stroke and believe the ball is going on. Simple, yet so hard Dr Dave as you mentioned, has a video that touches on this. There is such thing as automatic deflection correction, where you just auto compensate.

added to my pool practice videos :)

Will have to give that a... shot! :) Thanks for sharing!

The reason the shot works, from what I understand, is that the right spin pushes the cue ball to the left make you hit rail first to the left and the result becomes hitting rail and ball at the same time. When the ball is hit you are transferring spin to that ball like football player spinning to keep the defense from effecting him. In this example the friction from the rail is the defense. The shot is possible in a number of different ways and if you want to use running English (left in this case) just hit rail first and it will go in but the cue ball will go a bit more straight out and spin along the tangent line that way so it depends on where you want to end up. You can also hit rail and ball at the same time with right spin or backspin/lowspin and it will work. Too much topspin can cause the ball to8t come off the rail for short shots. But If you need it to go all the way down the rail a bit of top and left spin with ball first works some of the time but it's hard do it consistently.

More on aiming! Especially the cross cut shot.

Great tip! Can`t wait to try it out. Do you still aim exactly full to the OB, even with different distances from CB to the OB? In my logic the deflection should increase with longer distances to the OB, and so the risk to overcut the shot is high. No matter how much your shaft deflects.

*LAST SHOT, NOTICE THE WEIGHT OF CUE WAS TO RIGHT, AND THEREFORE CUEBALL WAS THROWN INTO RIGHT RAIL CAUSING CUE TO BOUNCE RAILS*

Thanks for the tip Earl. Can you make a video demostrating on how play a screw back on an object ball frozen to the cushion

Depends on shaft stiffness and power of the stroke. Think of it like this. The sticks 'bows' as it strikes the ball, which sends the cue ball off of the aiming path. Right spin throws the cue ball to the left, vice versa.

Very informative. I will definitely apply this to my game. Can you interview Ralf Souquet about his 26 rack run of eight ball he did years ago? Thanks!!

Glad it worked for me so I didn't have to snap my cue in half like Earl would.

Ever since i watched this vid i use this constantly and i tell everyone i know

Yeah I've always struggled with getting position with those rail shots

It’s the speed you play the shot, the running spin makes it hug the rail, but not enough to really deflect off since the topspin accelerates the obj ball forward; kind of like the top:side ratio at moment of contact. Try it pure side and you can see easier why top helps keep it in line. This shot becomes harder from longer distances at slow speeds, since the right applied will serve off the aim line, but as long as you account for it and the cb contacts correctly, it will still pot.

Interesting habits working from different angles. I'll try that tomorrow. My my cue stick has more deflection. I tried a c u e Tech carbon fiber but it seemed a little heavy. Went back to Wood. It was a very good shaft though. Sometimes I regret selling it. Thanks for all your tips and hard work man.

I have to get to a pool table to try this. It first glance it seems to me that only a specific combination of stroke power and sidespin amount would work. To pocket this ball, the cue ball is probably compressing into the cushion a tiny amount, so that the object ball is hitting slightly "thinner" than were a ghost ball would be. The cut-induced-throw and spin-induced-throw exactly offsets the extra thinness of the contact. The resulting object ball spin makes it hug the rail without having enough force to bounce off the rail. At longer distances the swerve of the object ball will be greater than the deflection so this wont work. At lower power, again the swerve will be greater than the deflection and this won't work. At very short distances with a powerful stroke, the deflection is greater than the swerve and the cue ball will hit rail first and miss the shot.

I was taught this shot in 2016 and what's really hard is when you almost at the 50 yard line and you apply running English without scratching at that

If the Object ball is frozen to the rail I aim for the extreme edge of the object ball, almost the gap between ball and rail. Then I add a touch of inside English. The deflection causes a rail first hit with a pocketed object ball.

That was money. Nasty tip. Thank you.

Man, Dr.Dave would have a field trip with this shot.

The reason it works: The side english causes DEFLECTION (squirt) when hit firmly. So with right english and hard hit, the cue will arrive left of the aiming point.... It is important to learn the effects of deflection spin and throw... I STRUGGLED FOR YEARS. This shot came up. I wanted to cheat the pocket when straight and use the side and top to get me out when I had zero angle.... WHAT I FOUND (after owning my own table and getting to practice freely) was that you aim square and straight at the pocket like in this video, and the hard hit side causes deflection and causes a natural pocket cheat that you didn't have to aim to achieve. Then the side/top takes off the rail and you can get away from the corner.

This does work, I usually try and play the shot slow to stop it rattling with reverse side but even then some times on our British pub tables the balls don`t like to go in.they are not forgiving at all. But today I had 3 attempts first too failed the white hit the ball to thick twice , the third attempt went in with speed , I could not believe it, I think though you have to consider several things to this shot. So ,say were doing the same shot you showed us the second time where you hit the white at around 1 o clock high right. 1)size of cue tip makes a difference to how much push the white will go over to the left 2)Power given will push white over less if hitting white to hard,in a short distance 3)Distance between white and object ball will effect how far the white gets pushed over by the time it reaches its object ball. So, consider the power given , consider how small the tip is to how far to the right you hit the white cue ball, and consider the distance from white to the object ball. Once you get all three of these mastered you should get the object ball in all the time, I imagine the ball goes in at such speed due to reverse spin` Revers spin keeps the object ball to the running edge and same goes for the way it heads into the pocket coming off the corner angel of the pocket ` it gets forced to shoot into the hole from its rebound ,

good video would like to see more extreme backspin videos

Nice

Awesome I have to tell myself every day to aim straight at the ball

Earl is underrated in my opinion

One small correction. You said at the beginning that Earl showed you in Astoria at Amsterdam Billiards. That wasn't Amsterdam which is in Manhattan. That was Steinway Billiards!!

Thanks for sharing! It would be nice a tutorial on how to properly use the bridge, I think there is not much about that matter.

Hi, I'm loving your videos! I've got one question regarding table sizes. ¿Would you consider getting a 180x90cm field slate table? I've got limited space and with the 2x1m I would have to make some shots with a shorter cue. The 180x90 fits better in my room but I am afraid of how different the game could be compared to the 2x1 bar tables I am used to play. Thanks!

Please make a vid how to consistent break the 1 ball in side pocket with breakes from: 1. Matchpools breake square 2. The rail 👍👌

I like playing bottom on that ball as it puts top on the object ball and helps it roll in, the downside is if you're confident in your speed you may be shooting the 9 in the side or down table.

I did a few shots with slowmo. I noticed there is a WIDE range of hits on the object ball that still go in. It seems like if it defects too much or too little the throw and rail compression seem to balance each other through a wide range of hits.

🤯

I struggle with these a bunch and always wonder what spin to put em. Thanks for coopl tip. Hope it works when I get next chance to shoot a game!

explanation is given on 2:53 I love playing this shot when it serves a practical purpose... and yes, also to show of haha. It's always appreciated when people care to share knowledge that can improve your game.. great clip therefore! Tip to the uploader though: the video didn't need 7 minutes to make a point on how to hit the shot.. to drag it out by saying "it sounds crazy... for some reason it works... the tips that I'm going to share with you... etc. etc.. just cut to the chase next time please 😀

Thats refreshing ! Will try it out What length extension are you using , the old cuetec 6 inch or the new 3 inch extension ?

That works for someone using a maple shaft with a lot of deflection. To those who use a laminated or carbon fiber low deflection shaft, just aim & shoot.

excellent video in terms of content and editing. Keep them coming! 🦾

who would have known? great tip!

look forward to trying this out, I certainly can rattle balls in the jaws without a problem

1) You're imparting a little bit of left spin on the object ball, which helps suck it in to the rail, 2) You actually have a relatively high margin of error as you can hit the rail first.

This is how CJ Wiley aims every shot. Check him out on KZfaq, and he was a training site where he teaches his methods.

Shot it just the way you described and landed a little longer, I may have hit it a little to hard. It wen just as described on my first shot. Thanks for the tip. Using a JP 13mm.

😂 „smarter people like me“ Nice video. Thx.

Nice tip

i need help with a long straight-in shot to a corner pocket where you need the cue ball to reach the opposite end of the table for shape. My draw shot is not strong enough to get there. I haven't seen any instruction on how to accomplish this.

interesting and coming from Earl how can I not try it as this is one of my hardest shots. Not the shot itself but going three rails for the shape.

DEFLECTION. Note. Rather than pinpoint aim. On long shots you can aim direct and use deflection to get that slight off hit you are looking for. So rather than aim at the ghost ball, aim square and use side to deflect the cue ball to the correct position.