Loved it. It looks like you did each side in about 10 minutes!

Bro this took me and my boys from 1pm to 1130 at night . Holy shit so many rusted parts and autozone runs . 😂

Great Job you are a super mechanic

Common tools easy to follow video… priceless.

Excellent video👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

How about you stop making everything look so easy 😂 Keep the videos coming!

Oh, just got mine today!

Holy crap this is an awesome video and this guy really gave me the confidence to order the parts and do it myself. I do wonder if the factory parts can be rebuilt to have as spares.

Bravo!this is best ~ my dear.😌

Another great video..... although, I have to admit, I've always liked your commentary... 🙂

Thanks man!

You're gonna need: Blue loctite Nitrile gloves (recommended) PB blaster spray Anti-seize for drain plug threads Torque wrench 54mm axle nut socket (some say 55mm will work) Pry bar (two is better) 2 or 3 lb hammer Metric socket set 10mm allen wrench (some are 24mm) Bowl/bucket to catch diff oil Grease for wheel bearings 2 quarts of 80w-90 diff oil (2) drain plug gaskets Toyota part # 12157-10010 (don't reuse the old ones) 4 ft. of ¼” ID clear plastic tubing for diff oil Wire brush Paper towels Note: Remove the diff FILL plug BEFORE removing the drain plug to ensure you can get diff fluid back in. A T-55 torx fits 10mm allen head plug. If its the rare 24mm, use a 15/16" six point socket... Its safer.

Muy buen trabajo.

Best way to pull that axle.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Not a spoken word, but great video.

ASMR… lol. Nice job!

Hi mate, i have a problem in RL height control sensor, theres no value when i check with intelegent tester. So, whats the problem ? Or its the effect about accumulator ?

Thanks. I am curious why you did not replace the boot only. I know it will be time and effort consuming but a lot cheaper. Also will be advisable to replace the internal axle oil seal

I wish you had showed how you tapped it in. You can see it slide into the diff but we can't see where you were hammering and with what tools. I have not been able to hammer mine in despite using a 3 lb dead blow hammer and a 2x4 piece of wood. Yes I greased the shaft and retention pin.

was that and OEM cv axle? and you replaced it with duralast? im curiuos why not just reboot it if it was an OEM axle?

How are the Duralast parts holding up? I have a clicking noise and am thinking it’s the same part

Great video! Surprised you didn't go OEM on this one. Curious to see how these Duralast hold up!

Thanks for the video. I'm about to do this exact repair. I noticed in your previous video on this, you had some trouble with slipping the inside end of the cv axle in. Was it easier this time around? Curious also, Is it possible to push the inside end of the cv axle in first before the part that goes into the hub?

does the inner get a snap ring?

another great 100 series videos but I miss the narration! Helps folks like me who are less mechanically inclined to know what the heck we're doing.

What did you use to suspend the brake calipers? Nevermind, saw the bungee cord later on in the video

@chowcares I am in the middle of this job and no matter how hard I try, I can't get enough slack in the axle to pull it out the diff side. I ended up having to take the whole darned knuckle off! Any tips on how to get the axle out without having to take off the knuckle?

@chowcares How are your Aftermarket CV’s holding up? Just got a set from autozone since they are cheaper than the OEM ones

At 53 seconds or so, there is quite a bit of grease below the CV boot. Is that indicative of a torn CV boot and/or the need to replace the CV axle? That excess grease is present under both of my CV boots and I'm wondering if I need to deal with this by replacing the CV axles. Many thanks for posting this video, as well as your others!

Genius

10:03 that RX-7 though…

So do you still think Duralast Gold CV Axles is worth it? Lifetime is nice but I would get tired of replacing it every 2 or 3 yrs no?

Hey man! I attempted this method on a 2000 Landcruiser and the inboard side of the OEM cv axle came apart spilling the internals of the tulip joint all over the ground. The snap ring that holds the inboard side together must have come apart. It wasn't a huge deal because I was replacing said axle, but it's worth noting to your subscribers that if they intend to reuse the axle, there's a possibility of it coming apart which would mean potential damage to the balls when they hit the pavement. I personally will not attempt to use your method on my own truck because of this experience but that's mainly because the OEM cv axles are $400 per side.

👍👍💯💯💯⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐💖

Axle pusher

I give you max 1 year on this aftermarket axle, I will tell you what happen after 1 year time, you will notice vibration , then you will start inspecting why , and I will save you time look at you needle bearing , bronze bushing and inner seal on the hub , they will be butchered by this aftermarket axle

Should of replaced the seal as well.

I got some “upgraded” axles. They take a new Toyota axle then place a red urethane boot on the inside to replace the oem rubber. This is a huge mistake! Don’t do it! Factory axles are best

Why so silent? 🤣

Come on dude.. don’t go mute on me! Wanted some information and you decide to go mute… 😂

Sorry i am late, i tried to get here before the “WHY NO OEM” bois. (OEM is great for some things but come on, it s a CV axel. That lifetime warranty 🤌🤌)