Great to see a DIY version of this for small scale printers. There are a few scara type setups that used a scaled up version of this so that you can maintain close to a regular clay consistency, hard to replicate that at this scale with the weight involved, but great to see someone proving it could get there!

The clay may have been sandy on purpose. Sand and crushed brick/fired ceramic (called grog) is often added to clay to reduce the risk of cracking during firing. I imagine it reduces cost as well. Look up "coiling", it is an ancient pottery technique used before the potter's wheel and for ceramics too big for a potter's wheel. It is basically hand 3D printing, you take a 'rod' of clay, coil it on a table to form the base, then slowly put one on top of another to form the walls. Also look up 'slipcasting', it allows a gypsum plaster mold to make larger scale production possible. I'm not aware of anyone who 3D prints with gypsum plaster but you could print a plastic model, make a gypsum plaster mold from that, then cast something from the mold.

This channel in general is some quality content! Wish I had found it earlier. Hope you get the viewer counts you deserve!

The most successful clay extruder till date. You will get better control with a geared extruder system. It will increase torque and flow rate control.

Supernice dude! Looking forward to part 2.

I have to build my own paste extruder for my grad school thesis work. Here are a few notes that I have that may help others in the future. First of all there's a chemical called darvan 7 which increases the fluidity of the clay (deflocculation). If you keep adding water to the clay it will have cracking and strength issues due to shrinkage during water loss. Secondly as others have said, adding cellulose fibers (e.g. egg cartons in blender works well) will improve the working properties of the clay. Lastly as others have also said, is better to start from a dry mix of clay and then add all of the extra ingredients that you need and the exact amount of water that you need. Wedging it or running it through a pug mill is also important to remove air bubbles and to increase plasticity but do not over wedge the clay.

I wonder if a stainless steel cookie press would work as a substitute for your plastic syringe. The tips on the cookie press would be interchangeable for different extrusion sizes. The main problem seems to be the low torque from your stepper motor resulting in a lack of extrusion force - you may have to add a gear ratio to the top of your extruder, whichever body you use. It is a very interesting video though, and I can't wait for part two. Good work!

As a potter, if you wedge your clay it will soften up a bit. But I'd like to see you try printing with some slip. This way, you can buy powdered clay, mix with water with an immersion blender to the consistency you want. You can probably still print with some really really wet stuff.

Couple of ideas to look into: 1. Can you print onto a plaster bat (esentially a rectangular slab of plaster). This will help wick moisture away from the clay and perhaps help firm it up more quickly. and 2. Consider using what is known as paper clay. This has cellulose fibers mixed in, and has a few advantages - It doesn't shrink as much when it dries, and also you can add wet clay directly to dry clay. This may make it possible to print in stages. Just spitballin here. Cool video though.

Honestly genius and very creative😄 seriously deserves a follow🙏🏽 hop you expand your ideas into the consumer market place and invent something amazing

USE Vegetable OIL to soften! And strengthen with paper fibers .. Its how potters do it

Better results are with the pushing auger, which is connected to the extruder servomotor. The auger can be printed, for example, from ABS, including a conical nozzle. The clay can be supplied continuously (the clay is pressurized only between the nozzle and the auger). It responds well to retractions, etc. It works like a filament, so nothing changes on both software and hardware. The print quality is excellent - the product can theoretically be fired immediately in the oven. ))

I love the outcome!

An interesting successful/failure. Did you have plans to cure the clay? I would think steel rods would be more suited, and easily changed, for this type of application. Keep up the great content!!

Use hot air, to dry the clay faster while printing

Use air dry clay. It starts setting up as soon as it’s exposed to air. It to can be “watered” down to achieve ideal viscosity.

Amazing idea. Can't wait to see where you go with this.

Awesome Constantijn

yeah handsup for you really great video man i want to make it but have no idea about how to built extruder to use clay in as extrusion material thanks again man

Ich weiß nicht, wie stark man den Luftdruck senken müsste, damit Wasser Raumtemperatur verdunstet, aber es wäre eine Möglichkeit den Ton recht flüssig zu halten und im Druckraum für die Verdunstung des Wassers zu sorgen, damit die Festigkeit einigermaßen schnell hergestellt wird. Sicherlich nicht ganz einfach die Aufgabe, aber ein Versuch könnte es wert sein

aber ist sicher ein gutes Setup für Schokolade, braucht die Spritze halt ne Heizung. Aber sehr schön gelöst

Brilliant.

I was thinking about this you are my hero

Oh man! This video is like watching clay dry. Bah dum tsss! I'm kidding. Great video. I might just buy a 3d printer that actually prints clay instead of going through this pain. Thanks for all your hard work.

If you use a geared stepper, you might be able to go down to a finer nozzle size. I'm very curious to see how far you can push it

Good job bro

Super cool project. Maybe you can prevent the printed structure from sacking by applying hot/warm air all the time, drying the outside of model for additional strength.

This is superb!

Which lead size did you select for the lead screw?

this is how all the ancient buildings were built

What about using hot air to dry the lower layers before the upper layers are applied?

Good job! It is very interesting.

try it with plaster or drywall mud

Bro we are from india..can you tell us what are the components you used to make this..we are currently doing a project it needs this complete setup..so kindly help us bro..thank you

Wouldn't a bowden type extruder with a higher torque motor be a better idee? You could use a bigger reservar and a hosepipe with a 3D printed nozle as a bowden tube. And letting the print dry after a certain hight could prevent it from deforming. But then you wold loose a lot of clay inside the tube an there are probably other issues I don't see. Did someone tryed something like this?

there may be harmful metal in clay when you consume it. It is not a good idea when you don't know what material you are getting.

Great tutorial and really nice job! I'm trying to recreate the process and was wondering what the exact connections are between the Arduino, breadboard, and motor. It would be much appreciated!

trying to build the same kinda printer . where do i find the code . i find codes for scara printers . please help me with the code for this

Hi Constantin.... Hast du mal darüber nachgedacht den Ton mit anderen fluiden in der Viskosität zu steigern? Ich denke da gerade an Alkohol. In der Tube und mit Ton sollte das gut Flüssig sein. Wenn es dann in einem gut beheizten und belüfteten Bauraum gedruckt wird sollte der Alkohol schnell verdunsten und dem Ton festigkeit geben. wenn man dann noch langsam und flach druckt sollten sich doch einige Probleme die du beschreibst schnell lösen. So oder so ein mega gutes Video. Danke für die viele Arbeit. Abo ist raus.

Just tip when you use clay and you want to make wet it better use dry clay

18.20 - you mean Archimedes screw. Nice video!

hey can you provide me the configuration.h file for this clay setting I am working on similar project

This is the clay.

Hello there! That's a very nice project. I'm creating my own Paste 3D printer and for that reason I don't have connected any heat elements like the bed and the thermistors. I'm using repetier host to send the commands and everything works fine for the X, Y and Z axis but the stepper motor for the extruder I have isn't working. Do you have to configure something in the code Marlin or wire something in the Ramps to get the extruder work? (I already tried connecting the stepper motor to the driver of the Z axis, which has a screw too, and it works so I know the extruder's stepper motor is okay) I'll be very grateful if you answer! It is for my graduation project.

Thanks for sharing 💕 you are awesome 👏

Love your videos! I also like the music you play in the background. Where did you find it?

In the US, it's called "bleeding" your brakes, as in bleeding air from the brake system. For some reason, only now have I realized that this expression is incredibly confusing and nearly nonsensical. It makes more (than zero) sense if you do not use a vacuum and only work the brake pedal and 'bleeder' screw.

Hey constantjin i am new to paste extrusion based printing. I have a modified version of your design and it works great. Thanks a ton for that. I am in Bio 3D printing research and i need your Cura print settings for this model because my models are discontinuous and there are some many options i have no idea what to tweak. So please can you help me out??

Can clay be used for 3D printing houses to?

Do you think I can install this extruder on a printer like alfawise u20 or ender 3 ?

Is it used for sculpting ?

what is the thread dimension of the lead screw?

Great video!

Heated enclosure? Would that work

I pinched the thousandth like! :)

Idk but If my Anet Works I dont want do to this i think its destroying My Ultrabase and its to Big

Interesting view. What was your layer thickness and speed in the end? Any other alterations beside the ratio and the nozzle diameter that requires changing in the software?

I think you need some mechanical advantage to push the clay

really nice project! do you plan on improving it?

Bigger motor and denser clay.

PLA OR ABS?

Sprechen Sie deutsch?

dont be so arrogant lol, it should be one of the easiest, and you can use s larger siringe fixed to the frame just above a drill screw printer head. i have read clay printers use heating, and with a hair dryer you would have succesfuly printed complex clay forms as it dries. also one of the simplest way would be clay powder sintering with a solar lense heating the clay dust with jet binder at 1400 degrees, you can keep the motors outside the furnace enclosure with chain belts and zero plastic 3d printer

Any one do for cr10 mount

i would have really not tasted and swallowed that clay... in nature, at some site, in the forest... yes, no issues but out of that bag? from a factory you have no clue what they are doing? theres so much ewy chemistry added to modeling clay.... to be honest i feel like if you ate a teaspoon of every clay you could buy in the stores here, some would be no issue, and some would be a painway way to go

14:50 ATHEIST CONFIRMED

:D