Excellent glad I could help.

Mold can be an issue on vents. Exit mold is your friend. Just pop the square vents out of the holders and clean outside. Keep doors and or windows open when running the EVAP unit to help control moisture inside the house.

Yes compressed air may work. It will make a mess on your roof. The problem is alot of the time the dirt is dry and needs a brush or water to break it down. CLR clear helps break down lime deposit before being washed. All the best.

It's difficult but a cordless vac like a Dyson helps. When cleaned yearly there won't be too much dust on the fan blades. Another option is to catch the dust with a damp rag under the fan.

Your welcome thanks

Easy thanks, I have seen tradies charge $200+ for an Evap cooler service. Do it yourself and put the $$$ in your pocket.

Leaks could come from a few places like overflowing cooler, dump valve leak, or from the inlet pipe. It's best to run the unit and then go into the roof space to see where the leak is. More often the leak is from an over flowing evap cooler because the float valve is not stopping the water completely.

Yes this is an option and I have seen it done before. T piece after the tap one hose to the air conditioner and another small tap to a hose fitting for cleaning This makes cleaning quicker and safer.

Sure next time I'm servicing a belt operated air conditioner I will film it. This breezair unit was direct drive so no fan belt.

Yes that should fix the issue. But it could also be due to water getting into something. But it's usually the pump if it's old. Good job with the diagnostic.

Do you have controllable zones in your house. One or 2 of the diverter valves could have failed closed. The other problem could be the roof space ducts could have holes in them. Silver ducting is the best and can last up to 20years. Some older plastic lined ducting can fail after 5 years.

@@NotSealed no I don’t have controllable zones and it is silver ducting. Where would I find the diverter vavles

@@michmall2759 well the diverter valve are for control zones so if you don't have them then nothing to worry about. You will have to climb through the roof to see where you are losing air flow.

@@ravenit1 thanks for the great advice I’ll have a look in the roof

These parts are expensive just replace them as they fail. Water pumps tend to last around 10 years so replace that first.

Could be a couple of issues drain valve leaking or open. Float not shutting of water or electric shutoff valve not closing. More details here notsealed.com/breezair-evaporative-cooler-troubleshooting-guide-repairs.html

Yes every year you will need to clean the filters. You do not need to replace them unless there is damage. Not cleaning the filters will allow scale to build up which will cause the filters to fail. Evaporate air-con filters should last 10 years +

On my EVAP unit that last panel is the high point so most of the dirt runs to the low point. There are no user serviceable parts near the last panel so left it on for ease of making the video. You can remove it for easy cleaning. Glad you found it useful.

You should be able to fix it yourself. If it's just got hor air then it's a water issue. Either pump not working, no water, or a dump valve issue. Good luck. Let me know how you go.

@@NotSealed thank you so much for replying I'm hoping I'm able to fix it haha I'll definitely let you know as soon as ive finished.. I may have more questions to ask once I'm up there 😅

⁠@@rpeters1090 I’m curious, how did you get on?

Another option is to flip the seal over and use the other side. I have done that before many times.

@@NotSealed yes great idea thanks

Either or CLR works great but stinks. Make sure to flush it well afterwards. Don't scrub the pads as it will destroy them just spray them on the inside and outside. Make sure to run the fan on low during the cleaning process and ventilate the house well.

Make sure the fan is at maximum another problem could be your ductwork. These can fail over time causing holes and lack of pressure. Old plastic ductwork tends to last only around 10 years. Silver ductwork should last 20 years Plus.

Either at the main switchboard breaker or inside the Breezair evaporative unit white box. It will have a toggle switch that can be turned to the off position.

@@NotSealed thanks for the reply, fully equipped to tackle this one now, cheers!

Only really when they start to degrade and fall apart. I have seen some last over 15 years if cleaned every season.

@@NotSealed Great Video I have a 21 yr old breeze air unit one of the pads has fallen apart is it best to buy 1 or 4 pads? When you use the CRC clear do you spray it on the bottom of tank and the pads and rince off or leave it on?, i dont think my unit has a drain plug so was going to use a drill pump to remove the old water. and is this the one to buy CRC Clear Urethane Seal Coat 300g? thanks I just read on your link about breeze air breaking down mine is 21 yrs old i had the pump replace about 4 yrs ago and i never did maintenance on it ha. where would be the best place to buy pads im in Adelaide?

Its called clr clear its is the most powerful cleaner just spray it on the pads and inside and then wash it off. You can get it at bunnings You need to drain it you must have a drain plug somewhere. Its either a auto drain or a drip drain. Pads can be brought as a pack of 4 from ebay@@foaley77

I need more information. Is the air conditioner filling up with water? Is it leaking water? Is the water pump working etc

Hi there, the water is working as i can see water filling up but the counter weight drain remains up ( so water drains away and cannot reach the level it should ). Not sure how to check if the pump is working ! Thank you for your help.

Sounds like the drain valve is not closing. This is a very common problem. You will need to replace this part. amzn.to/47aQOOJ It is very easy to replace.@@jdhdh1357

Its probably the solenoid valve which needs to be replaced

If it's not leaking then you must be losing water via evaporation. Check that it is not spilling over and onto the roof. As this could be a blocked drain overflow.

@@NotSealed It's not spilling over onto the roof and it isn't leaking. I have a flat(slight slope towards the back) roof and I'm in the back room where the water runs off through what are called here canales(drains) and no water has drained out- the ground has remained completely dry. The company that put in the new valve is coming back tomorrow.

It was the salinity sensors that needed to be cleaned off and the float. There's no leak another guy from the same company came out and fixed it a couple days ago. Now it's working normally

Well it turns out he didn't fix it so there's no leak but for some reason there's a flow into the cooler at 0.2 GPM. I know somebody who works as a plumber for the county and she said that maybe some debris got into solenoid valve or the only other thing I can think is it's a faulty valve because there's no water going through the water softener when the cooler is shut off so it can't be in the water line.

@@RussellUpsomgrubb Im at a loss. The only thing to do is take off one panel and run the cooling have a look at what is happening with the water. It should cut off when at the proper water level. It may make a mess with one panel off and could be slippery so use a harness for the inspection.

The big steel box is just a connection point for the duct work. Sometimes condensation can form in this area and rust out the corners. This can be where it may be leaking slightly.

@@NotSealed thanks mate, I’ll do some more investigating.cheers 🍻

I have an old 30 year unit that we noticed the same thing. Checked the steel casing and felt water or condensation. How did you fix it?

@@gungy3171 bought a new one…. 😬 when we had a close look the old fella (25-30 years) was pretty much worn out every where, seems the old owner did some patching and removed a dump valve. (Not that we found the leak) even the cover was cracking so we decided not to spend any dollars on it.

Never seen that fault before. Make sure the remote is in manual not auto. Could be a failed button on the remote.

Just need more information is there water in the aircon, is the dump valve closed, any lights on the isolator control box?

@@NotSealed yes, water in the air con. So it wets the pads fine. It dumps water as normal. Just the fan doesn't turn on or kick in. It doesn't even turn on in manual vent only mode. I'll check for lights on the evap when I get on the roof tomorrow

@@NotSealed so only lights on the control box showing are the normal 2 green flashes for Diag and one red for Sal. When the vent function is turned on, I just hear a click inside the control box. No fan turns on. Fan spins freely when turned off. No noise or buzzing when turned on.

Sounds like either a motor or control box problem. The older fan motors which were green had issues with shorted out wires. The newer white motors are better. More info here on how to test the drive motors. notsealed.com/breezair-evaporative-cooler-troubleshooting-guide-repairs.html

Easiest way to tell if it’s the motor or board is by looking for the power light to turn on on the board when you press vent. If it doesn’t turn on the board is gone and if it does and the fan doesn’t kick on it’s the motor 👍🏻

Usually when you turn them off they will dump all the water out. A yearly clean out will keep these aircon units fresh.

These breezair icon EVAP units are rubbish. Constantly failing parts and expensive to replace. The green motors are prone to shorting out internally due to vibration. The white motors are better made so try and get a replacement white motor. When they fail they tend to blow up the white control box. Good luck.

Could be water getting into the electrics on something or the fan motor pulling high amps due to seized bearings.

Yes, it is very easy to replace. You need this part amzn.to/40u9Lue make sure to Isolate the unit and follow this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9GEg8xmqa_MXZ8.html You will need to remove the cable but it is just a plug that is easy to remove. For an easy fix just leave the black housing installed in the cooler and replace the motor and plunger assembly.

No, you will need to get up onto the roof and take one panel off near the pump to see why water is not flowing over the filters. Air moving through wet filter pads create the cooling effect.

@NotSealed Water runs through them fine, just went up on the roof today and checked. The filters are a few years old now. They look fairly worn. 😳

You can take them down and clean them with clr clear. Filters should last 10 years Plus. Check your ductwork inside the roof as this can also degrade and fall apart.

Yes you should use a harness. Many don't in this industry and it's not safe. If your water tap to the air conditioner has an appropriate fitting you can connect a hose into it. Depends where the leak was if he caused it or not. I find old taps will leak if not operated for a few years the oring seals fail.

G’day Did you find out where the leak came from. My son just bought an older house and it’s evap leaks. It seems to be internal? Not sure though.

Yes, it was a tiny black hose that was partially exposed to the sun and had been damaged from UV which he said is very common. He knew the cooler had never been serviced in 16 years since it was installed so god knows why he never checked it properly on the first visit! He also claimed that he brought up a hose with him, but I never saw it as he climbed up. @@liamgross7217

You can try and adjust the float level so it won't fill as much. Otherwise it will need to be leveled again.

Glad it helped

Not sure what you mean by removing order but you can purchase new pads and they will clip into the plastic outer shell.

Best to take the pads off and down to the ground floor. Clean them out with detergent and you can use a mold killer. But rinse them well. It's important to ame sure the evaporative unit is dumping the old water and there is a lot of windows open when running the unit. I have seen people having damp houses with not enough ventilation. In humid weather evap units don't work well.

@@NotSealed Thanks champ. I took all the pads off and hit them with Mould killer. Hopefully that fixes it as the pads are only 4 years old..

Yes and that's why we run a descaler like clr through the system for a while to breakdown buildup. That's the trick for a proper clean.

Your welcome glad it helped.

It must be the controller. They often fail if the motor fails. Even if the wiring was incorrect the motor would only spin in one direction. It wouldn't matter if you started spinning it by hand in the other direction as the torque would slow it down stop and then drive it in the correct direction. A stalled humming motor is a sign of a bad controller. Is the motor new? Check the resistance of each windings they should be the same ohms.

Thanks for your reply@@NotSealed ...I managed to find the problem. It's a second hand motor. I checked the wiring on the capasitor and changed the two wires around and it worked. Someone must have bought a new capasitor for it and wired it backwards? It ran all day but when i tried to restart it, on full, it wouldn't start again but starts when I turn it down to low no problems. So, at this point, it seems to be working, to a degree anyway...

You will need to go on the roof and take off one of the filter pads to check the status lights on the controller. Most probably water is not filling up. Could be a drain issue, or stuck water inlet solenoid.

Make sure it's a 4pin rj9 some controllers use rj11 / rj12 which is a 6pin sometimes 4pins are used. As far as I know it's a straight cable. Not crossover

@@NotSealed Thankyou very much for the response. Rj9 connectors on a 4 pin straight through rj12 cable did work to power the controller but no signal seemed to go the unit so maybe my controller is the issue. Special thanks to my builder for cutting the cable off at the unit in the first place :)..Thanks again a great video

Ive got one located near the ridge of a tiled roof and its not exactly easy to even get a look at it inside the roof space. Any help appreciated.

They should only leak into the drain. If it is leaking internally into the ducts then you may have a crack or another issue.

Single story is easy but harder access for double story houses. Always use a fall restraint system when on the roof. If you can access internally into the roof space will give you an idea where the water leak is coming from. Usually it's a cracked tile or broken flashing.

Most evaporated air-conditioning use the tornado water pump. This has a hole for the outlet water to the filter pads. The rest of the pump has a filter which is small enough to not allow large particles to enter the pump. What is the pump brand and model number?

Thanks for the reply . I did not check what type the pump is but what you say makes sense as I saw online a pump with a hose fitting at the bottom . I have to get back up there this weekend because like an idiot I forgot to switch it back on again lol , it would probably be wise to find out the make and model for future ref my evaporator is over 20 years old Cheers @@NotSealed

2 red flashes means that there is no water covering the salinity probes. Need more information is this cooler working on vent only? Will it fill with water? Is the dump valve closed? More codes and fault fixes can be found here notsealed.com/breezair-evaporative-cooler-troubleshooting-guide-repairs.html

These parts are the main ones that fail. Breezair/Braemar/Coolair 3/4 Solenoid 24VAC amzn.to/3PkAK7e Breezair Drain Valve amzn.to/43gTWZ7 Seeley Tornado Pump amzn.to/4adtwJY Automatic Water Leveller amzn.to/3vhTkG3

Yes you should be able to unclip each corner to remove one or two panels. The clean service won't be perfect but it's better than nothing. Just flush it more with the hose.

Thanks for your quick reply - do you hose down the honeycomb filters?

Yes you can hose down the filters on the outside and inside with low pressure. If they have scale on them use a product called clr clear.

They should last over 10 years if cleaned yearly. Scale build up is what destroys the pads over time.

Either the drain valve is not sealing shut completely or the level float is not set correctly and water is draining from the overflow. You will have to open one of the panels to inspect it.

If your wall controller is stuck on 45 deg then that could be a problem. I have seen the buttons fail before. If the motherboard is full of mud then that is also an issue as the enclosure box seal has failed. Personally I would go with a new unit as they can be very expensive to repair especially if it's over 15 years old

Evaporative airconditioning is not recommended in humid areas as too much moisture is already in the air and it will make your home feel damp. But I have seen it done you just need lots of windows and doors open for airflow.

Yes way too much sounds like dump valve leaking or ball float not sealing off on a high level.

These evaporated coolers also known as swamp coolers are designed to be mounted on the roof. I have seen a few designs that are mounted on the ground and then have ductwork up the side of the house wall and into the roof space. Yes not fun to work on as you need to have fall protection.

It sounds like the dump valve is not sealing or closing properly. It could have something jammed in it or the dump valve is just old and need replacing. Best to take one of the filter pads off near the dump valve and check out the operation. This is the part you need amzn.to/3HmWtXD

@@NotSealed thanks for your advice. I will go check and see how it goes. Update soon for everyone to learn more. Thanks again😀

Check the water solenoid that it has power and open. Other wise could be the water float is stuck or dump valve limits are not closed. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9GEg8xmqa_MXZ8.html explains a little more Lots to check

As long as you have a few windows open for ventilation it's good. If no airflow to the outside you can get mold buildup in high humidity areas.

Could be a few things. Does it stay running on vent only not cool? If the dump valve is not reaching the closed or open limit it could cause the fan motor to stop. Also an old worn water pump can cause electrical noise that will trip the cooler. Low battery level in the wireless controller is another issue. Or just a bad motor. So a few things to check.

I will check, the motor turns once then stops

Depends on the type of air conditioner you have. Some only dump once the water quality gets bad. Others auto dump on a timer. Really old units trickle dump continuously which is a huge waste of water. Some of these old units can be adjusted. If you have a newer evaporated air-con and you find it is dumping water all the time the water float stop seal could be worn.

Yes the float valve is the problem. It can be adjusted or the rubber seat needs replacing

@@NotSealed Great thanks. Booked a service agent this time, but may have a go myself next time :)

No they can't get in. The design of the water-air cooling pads makes it impossible for flies to get in. Unless there is damage to the cooling pads.

No not in Perth far, far away.

Any error codes? You may need to check the fault code light flashing sequence on the speed controller up in the EVAP unit. Try cleaning the salinity probes. Could be a old water pump that causing interference with the controller. But error codes will set you in the right direction.

@@NotSealed Yes I went up and cleaned the cooler. * The dump valve is working perfectly (seals and when I press dump it actually turns the cooler off and dumps everything). * Salinity probes light flashing once in watermanager mode (dip switch) and flashing thrice in dump every 65 minutes mode. * However the cooler keeps stopping after approximately 25-30 minutes. The fault code is 1. One red LED flashing in the DIAG.. Communication problem? Also when the cooler runs it has 2 green LED flashing in DIAG before it faults utself. Looks like remote control and receiver are having a hard time pairing.. This is what I did to eliminate communication issue. I turned the cooler on in COOL full speed fan manual mode and left the remote control next to the cooler on top of my roof in sun shade. Will see how long it works now. Will update

Working perfectly fine in manual cool full fan speed for nearly 1.5 hr. No shutting down itself anymore. Its confirmed it was the remote-reciever connection issue.. Now, how can I fix this problem? I can't just leave the remote on the roof and climb up there to operate it. Can we convert the remote control to a wall mounted? Of how do I know which one of these two is faulty, remote or a receiver?

Yes so breezair fault code 1 is a communication problem with the remote. You will have to keep the remote as close to the aircon as possible directly under or to the side of the evaporation unit but obviously inside the house not in another room. Don't use rechargeable batteries and make sure the battery contacts are clean. Look for the radio antenna inside the air-conditioner should be a orange box with a fly lead antenna wire hanging off it. It can be moved to a more suitable location inside the evaporation unit. More information here notsealed.com/breezair-evaporative-cooler-troubleshooting-guide-repairs.html You can convert the air-conditioner to a cable wall controller but will cost abit.

So this is what I think I should do. Buy a long antena cable and move that orange receiver out of the unit. Place it somewhere in the roof very close to the remote. This should fix the problem. Remote and Receiver both work if they close together. I need to find a way to bring them closer. Batteries are brand new alkaline AAA so I wouldn't think it is a problem due to batteries

Sounds like the dump valve is faulty. If the valve is going up and down a few times or not moving at all it is faulty on startup. If you can remove a few panels and watch the dump valve on startup.

I have a problem where the dump valve is goong up and down and not enough water is coming in and therefore the fan wont start.Is this maybe a setup problem or a problem withevthe dump valve?.Thanks

And also when the water starts dripping down the sides and when the fan switches on ,the dump valve keeps opening and closing constantly and so much water is going down the gutter and downpipe.Surely this aint right

Not yet but will do one in the future the next time I have to change out a breezair motor.

Either the dump valve is not sealing/worn, the float valve is not sealing or the inlet solenoid valve is not closing. Could be any of them. You will have to open the unit up and inspect it.

@@NotSealed thank you for replying, opened it and it’s leaking from ball float thing. Do you reckon I should call in plumber or I can do it myself?

Can be done easily. Just follow this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9GEg8xmqa_MXZ8.htmlsi=6pgK4y8byb_tlzM0 No parts needed just flip the washer seal over.

Yes no problem to hose them out with a mist spray not a jet spray. Best to take them down to the ground floor and hose them out onto the grass. This way less dirt will fall into the bottom of the EVAP air conditioner.

@@NotSealed Thank you good man.

If it is scale the use clr amzn.to/3PQTcnn or another scale remover. If just dust then just rinse them out but I always use clr scale remover every year.

@@NotSealed excellent video and thanks for the prompt reply and advice! I just sprayed vinegar, let it sit for an hour and gave them a good rinse last night. I'll get some clr for next time cheers. They weren't that bad anyway

Let me know if you have any fault codes on the speed controller. I'm retired.

Thank you so much for your reply. I couldn’t see any fault code but still has power in the controller, unit showing its preparing the system but no airflow coming.Could you recommend someone trustworthy? Thanks again.

Could have a hole in one of the ducts or a blade has come off the fan. No real reason why it shouldn't be the same. The plastic covered ducts don't last very long.

You will need to take the panels off and try and start the unit to work out where the noise is coming from. I have seen a noisy water pump cause start stop issues. If the main fan motor is noisy it could have failed.

I have yet to replace the cooling pads since installation. About 10 years. The only reason to replace if they get damaged, or blocked with scale/dirt. Proper maintenance is key for evaporative cooler life.

Dump valve uses power to open and close the motor. Possible that the dump is wired up back to front. Check that there is power to the water in solenoid valve, but as you have no power to it could be due to dump valve staying open. Does the fan work on vent only? If not could be a fan motor problem. In my experience in the motor fails it also takes out the control box.

@@NotSealed thanks for the reply, theres no power to the solenoid, leds on main box are good, fan does not run on vent. i assumed the wiring on the dump valve is correct as the unit has worked in the past and it looks correct from factory and hasnt been messed with. im going to try the wall remote on my uncles unit today make sure that works. i had to put a new plug on one end of the remote cable and made a test lead so i can plug the remote in when on the roof so its not the control cable unles they swap the wiring and both ends arent the same but i would expect the remote not to work at all if that was the case i could not find a cable diagram for the remote cable.i will meg the motor windings aswell to check them.

i tryed my remote on another unit and all ok. so my remote does not have a backlight and does not say prestsrt or whatever at startup on my unit but did on the known working unit,.

Fan not running on vent is the key symptom. Must be a motor or control box issue. Some test you can do do check out the components are found here. notsealed.com/breezair-evaporative-cooler-troubleshooting-guide-repairs.html

No retired...

@@NotSealed oh..