this is actually a common way to see if your miata has been in an accident. When the hood gets damaged. 9/10 times it will be replaced by a steel aftermarket hood instead of the OEM aluminium hood.

Max Dobbs happy to help man!!

I'm about to go look at a miata tomorrow and they claim it's lifter tick but sounds more like rod knock, did yours sound that bad?

What if you’re replacing the lifters with new ones. Obviously you can put them in any slot correct? Or do they have a mark or something?

Gavin Bukouras no in that case they go in wherever. My tip just applies if you’re cleaning them, since each lifter will have slightly worn to the shape of its bore. The wear is measured in ten-thousandths of an inch, it’s probably not enough to make a difference but better safe than sorry

maybe you lost oil pressure

If you use a high quality synthetic and do more frequent oil changes you can avoid it coming back at all.

@@Kaxhow It depends on how hard you drive the car and how many miles are on it. The harder you drive and the more worn the engine is the more frequently you need to change the oil because what is happening is you have carbon that gets into the oil and it clogs the little holes in the lifter. As shown in the video. I do it every 5 thousand miles, but I don't drive it too hard, if it starts to get the sound I'll poor in some seafoam and then start changing every 4 thousand miles. Every Miata owner has to find out on their own how long they can go between changes... but if you catch the tick early you can fix it without taking the whole thing apart.

Thank you for the kind words!!

I’ll take it!

Anthony Hitchings I did this because you shouldn’t have to set timing if you just leave marks where it was at and put it back. There are also several videos on setting timing so to keep the video simple and quick i left this oit.

Goodluck!!

Dave Cooper all lifters function the same with the same parts! Assuming noting is damaged you can mix them up however you’d like

@@TomlinPerformanceis there a certain order you have to put them back in

Andy Carter you may have to take the pulley off. I don’t remember that being necessary for mine

Any idea what would be different for the 1.8? If anything

I don’t think much would be different. Maybe the cam angle sensor? I know the 1.6 and 1.8 have the same lifters but the valve cover and maybe cams will have slight differentiations. Same concept tho.

Screw drivers, ratchet with metric sockets, torque wrench, plyers/channel locks, and I think that’s really it.

Mason Tomlin Thanks, will give it a go today, unfortunately speedometer shit out yesterday aswell, any tips on the speedo cable?

Sol Invictus never worked with a speedo cable. Goodluck!!

@@solinvictus6110 It's either your trans or gauge cluster. To test this, unplug it from your trans and attach the cable to a drill and drill counter clockwise. If it moves, its your trans. If it doesn't, it's your gauge cluster.

@@solinvictus6110 it could also be the cable itself. Sometimes they'll seize up enough to cause the cable to break inside. If so, the drill method wouldn't help you determine if its the cluster or transmission. You'd have to take the cable out of both the cluster and transmission to make sure if you spin one end, the other end also spins. And pour liquid graphite inside the cable to keep it lubricated so it doesn't seize.

The cam gears already have timing marks on them! Quick search on the forum should come up with several write ups on timing.

danyfry15 exactly. It goes over a little notch on the cam. If it helps you could even use a paint pen to Mark where it goes but that notch makes it really hard (and maybe impossible) to put that back on wrong.

Mason Tomlin play thanks a lot. I’ll have to do this while quarantine is still happening

danyfry15 of course man happy to help!!

The steps will be the same, but the torque sequence might be different. And yes, changing the CAS o-ring would be a great thing to do while you’re already in there! Preventative maintenance is always a good idea.

@@TomlinPerformance awesome thank you !, i also plan on replacing the cam seals. My biggest fear is screwing up the timing during this lifter cleaning, is there only one way to reinstall the cam gear to the camshaft?

ahmed9707 Yep! It’s slotted with a little pin.

I had stock headers on it with a catless mid pipe and a manzo catback

Lol it appears I was. I never noticed that. I only had the car for about 6 weeks.

I just loosened it and was able to break it loose with the small ratchet I was using that fit back there easy. If yours is to tight you maybe will have to use a bigger ratchet with a universal joint or maybe put a big wrench on your ratchet handle to extend and get more leverage

Dextromethorphan I have since sold the car, in my ownership the tick never came back.

@@TomlinPerformance sounds good, i havent seen anyone else doing what you did to the Lifters. Most people just say change he oil to a thicker one and pray lmao

Sounds like timing, go back and double check you’ve got it timed right!

I honestly don’t remember any interference with the alternator but it’s been a long time now. Pretty certain after all bolts are out it was easy to slip out.

Taybrad20 no, you won’t have problems ith the cam angle sensor not being in the right spot. It only fits in the end of the cam one way.

Mason Tomlin what if while I removed it, I turned the sensor on accident then would it be out of time?

Taybrad20 nope! As long as your cams are correctly timed it doesent matter of you spin that sensor at all.

The way I’ve always done it is use a paint marker to mark where the belt is on the gears. So long as it goes back together and the markings line up it will be the same as taking it apart. If you don’t like that route you can always follow the manufacturers instructions to set timing, you can find these directions online. I believe you set cylinder 1 to top dead center and then all the marks on the gears will line up with the markings on the cover and block.

There is a tool you can get at Flyin Miata. This holds the cam sprockets in place.. are you going to use to crescent wrenches on the cams and then hold them in place with a vise grip. See carpassionchannel.

Pretty close

That's just what round hydraulic seals look like my man...

Oof lol

Isaac Kaufmann I just let them sit out for awhile, you could also use a heat gun or something similar.

Justin martinez for filling the lifters back up, yep! Use the same oil you’re putting in the engine.

I believe that one has solid lifters, not HLA’s. So pulling them out would be the same but there won’t be parts on the lifer to pull apart/ clean

@@TomlinPerformance Thanks for the reply! Would I be able to solve ticking lifters if they're solid? Or is there more to it?

@@olli98wood48 I would first find out if they have solid lifters, if they do then lifter tick wouldn’t be caused by the lifter. If they have the same HLA’s then it should fix it for you.

Nope! 125 inch pounds. Which is just short of 10.5 ft pounds.

@@TomlinPerformance Thank you for the correction! I didn't think nearly that much torque was necessary, or physically possible, but the correction for the sake of the video was well worth asking! Thank you!

No solvent tank so sink it is 🤷🏼‍♂️

Gavin Bukouras the cam gears only go on one way. So you don’t have to worry about that, as long as the cans are still in time.

Mason Tomlin so what about the cam shafts? If the gears are in time but the camshafts rotated, is that a problem

If u follow along it’s easy

You have to be pretty dimwitted to not do this with good results if you simply follow instructions.

If it scares you don't do it. Take it to a mechanic, but if you get a bad one they'll tell you your engine needs a rebuild.

Not sure. I don’t keep cars very long. Sold it shortly after

@@TomlinPerformance bruh hahahaha

The selling point at intro was “it doesn’t cost anything/free” but if I’m going to wrench on a Miata back hunched over for 6-8 hours i want the peace of mind and guarantee to the owner that he lifters are new and minimize tue chance of the ”ticking” coming back from a bad lifter that won’t hold pressure or oil properly…. But can new lifters just drop in ?? Not head specific ? No letter or markings to designate a specific cut ?

I was at 100k miles when I did this. I’m not sure how long it had this problem before I fixed it as I was a new owner.

I just waiting until I stoped seeing a lot of oil coming off of them still. Took maybe 5-10 mins.

@@TomlinPerformance wow thank you that took way less time than I thought it would. Way better than buying new ones Bc for some reason O’Reillys selling those hydraulic lifter 16 sets for 400 bucks. So really great video here

@@Angel-xe2de glad I could help! And thank you I appreciate it!

Maybe an hour, hour and a half

But the video is a good one. Nice that you took the time to reassemble everything. It's not always "reverse the process of disassembly"! Thanks.

This is correct, that was a typo and can caps are to be torqued to 125 in-lbs.

Yes, typo. Inch pounds.

Bc you’re supporting a homie and learning about miata’s! You’ll get it one day

Yes you cannnn take your time you got it

You should read better mate, it clearly says 125 in-lbs And not ft-lbs which is about 10,5 ft-lbs or so (Don’t quote me on that tho)

Ripperoni

if you dont have a clue about appropriate torque do not open up your engine, especially true on motorcycles

Anthony Hitchings fuck off

F :(

Late reply but no it doesn’t matter, the lifters move around anyways when they’re in the engine so it’s perfectly fine to not have them in a certain direction