Thank you for your video. Your tutorial solved the ticking on my 2012 Subaru Tribeca. I noticed that my car was making a ticking noise, sorta like it was a diesel. I had it looked at by a mechanic, he said it was my lifter. Could cost 2-3k or more if I needed an overhaul of the motor. He would have to take it apart. I googled "lifter" and your video came up on you tube. Watched yours and a few others.Went with your suggestion. It was scary listening to the motor as we ran it with the Motor Medic. But we did the full 5 mins.Replaced the synthetic oil w/regular oil. Added Lucas oil treatment instead, as recommended by the mechanic. It sorta still had the ticking, but it had decreased significantly. By the time we drove it for about 40 more miles (nice and easy), the ticking was gone. So thank you for helping us. Oh, we did run a heavier oil also.

Thanks bro saved me a step i did not really need! Damn noisy lifters . Loved the video. Simple and to the point. I hate those videos created for mechanics with knowledge. I always thrive for the average joe handyman. Thanks for the info..and a extra plus for the skip forward part. Although i would of put it a little back cause I had to back it up to hear what you had to say....

I learned to change the oil about 40 years ago. I was told to wet the built-in gasket to the new filter with a swipe of oil with my finger and hand tighten and just a quarter turn. You really tighten that thing. But I have to admit you know it hell of a lot more about cars than I do

MMO totally cured noisy lifter in my 2003 Chevy truck. I ran the MMO for about 2k miles and the lifter noise stopped after about 500 miles, but I left the MMO in the for a while longer, and then changed oil... holy shit! The MMO really worked its magic and removed a LOT of sludge, so much sludge that I had to use coat hanger to keep opening up the drain hole. MMO truly is an awesome sludge remover. Very nice!

This is the kind of guy that overtightens the shit out of oil filters then I get stuck having to chisel it off the next time an oil change is required. Also love the vise grip on the replacement drain plug. Gotta love it !

From a cold start the oil pressure should be around 40. If not, drop the oil pan and clean up the pump and screen. As for the ticking, there's several things that could be causing it. What you tried may work for someone else. You have to pull out the valves and have a look to get a better idea of what the problem is.

Trying to squeeze every bit of life left in that thing. I like it.

I recently used this flush in hopes that it would fix my lifter tick. I also added Marvel Mystery Oil to my new oil and a couple fluid ounces of seafoom. My lifters were significantly quieter after about 100 miles. It takes time to flush the sludge out of an engine.

I like it when he says not to over tighten the filter and does just that. Hand tight then 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

I would fix the low oil pressure by possibly a new oil pump and O-rings on the pick up tube. That might quiet it.

Thank you for the video cause in some videos they promote these products and I can't accept that these things can fix that problem and you proved I am right.

Make sure you use the correct oil that's in your owners manual. Also, try Marvel Mystery Oil.

My experience with a 2000 GMC Savana 350 vortec is similar to Mark Prescott's advice. At 328k miles had a similar noise. Changed oil to 4.5 quarts of Mobil Super high mileage 10-W-30 and a new Fram tough gard filter plus a half quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. 50 miles later, no noise. Engine takes 5 quarts.

Yeah, seems like you got a lifter problem for sure bud. Only thing is, by now you’ve prolly got rid of that rig and I am glad to see you’ve tackled this and learned from it. I love your vids and hope to see more of them.

I just use transmission fluid works like a charm every time I used it on various GM vehicles of various ages

Thanks for showing us the results. Now thinking in opening the cover to clean the rockers.

same kind of tick on my silverado, i changed oil pump and pretty much solved it , oil pressure was low also like yours

All of these videos were an inspiration to flush the engine on my 2001 Chevy Tahoe! I had poor initial oil pressure combined with noisy lifters!! I drained the oil and filled the crankcase with 2-gallons of gasoline and let is sit for three days. I drained the gasoline and refilled the crankcase with 2-quarts of oil and a 1-gallon of diesel fuel. The then started and engine and let it idle for 5-minutes. I did this three-times over the next day, and then drained and re-filled the engine with oil and new filter. The oil pressure returned to normal and the noisy lifters went away.

Best video on KZfaq for lifters! This guy explains better than anyone else!

Thank you for this video. I work in a Part store and I Was going to buy that motor flush for $6.00 dollars, but not now.

don't toss that quart bottle away, cut the top off and its a perfect funnel too!

One thing I learned using Motor Medic is one 32oz bottle only treats 4 quarts of oil. For most V8 engines that use 6 quarts of oil, you have to use 1 and 1/2 bottles of Motor Medic, or 48 ounces. The bottle also says it may take more than one treatment. Motor Medic also makes Valve Medic for noisy lifters. Motor Medic should probably be used at every oil change for high mileage vehicles. You cant use it once at 300,000 miles and then say it doesn't work. I personally have used it regularly with success! :-) I had a stuck valve, probably intake, causing a lean code. I was over 200,000 miles. I used it 3 consecutive oil changes and it cleared the engine light lean code. My van runs like a champ.

I always keep up with regular oil changes and maintenance on my vehicles. I don't drive that many miles anymore, but I still do regular maintenance. Thanks

Rislone high mileage engine treatment is designed to clean lifters while you drive. Safe to add to oil as a top up. And it works. My GM 8.1 had a tick at start up. It would go away after a couple of minutes. Two treatments over two oil changes and the tick on start up is gone.

Like that time wallmart put my drain plug in with an impact... i change my own oil now.

I personally used marvel mystery oil before using that crap. Nice try though, but you may want to start saving for another engine. It would be much cheaper than replacing that work van.

I've been watching your french drain videos and just stumbled upon this randomly! Thought you looked familiar

The 6.0 are hydraulic lifters so most likely oil pump or cam bearings at my work we use the 6.0 chevys and with proper care can get 500k out of them but the auto trans don't always last that long

Also, when removing old oil filter, check to see if gasket is still on engine. Sometimes they stick to the filter housing. If you install a new filter on top of the old gasket, you will blow oil all over your engine and driveway as soon as the oil pressure comes up!

It might be bottom end. You can try an additive like lucas oil stabilizer or motor honey to try and raise the oil pressure, but if it is indeed a bottom end problem the engine won't have much more life left in it.

"don't overtighten your filter" as tightening to 87 ugga duggas

The vice grip and over tightening the oil filter makes for a good laugh

I had the same noise in my 2005 ford expedition before, finally I found the noise came from the spark plug was broken.

The best lifter tick aid is ATF, add a quart of that in your oil and run it hard for usually 10-15 miles, learnt it from a dirt track veteran.

lucuas oil treatment is a real help great stuff

This video reminds me of a time when my friend drove his front wheels up onto a pair of those old school yellow metal ramps to change the oil in his Dodge van. He drains all of the oil that will come out of it with the front end elevated, then he starts the engine. I'm yelling at him to shut it down, & he just looks at me like I'M the crazy person. A few seconds go by,(seemed like a few minutes) and he turns the van' s engine off. By this time I am next to the driver door and he looks at me and says "I was just making sure I got all of the oil out. Last time I changed the oil, it was still dirty looking afterward." That was too much for me, because I knew that the oil drain plug was on the center of the pan, real close to the front. I looked at him & said, "yeah, no shit the oil looked dirty; there's probably 3/4 of a quart still in the oil pan, and do you change the oil filter when you do the oil?" He says, " what? There's a filter for the oil?". I didn't hang out with my friend much after that... stupid actions yield stupid results. By the way, that van ran for about 2 more weeks, before it overheated, then he drove it that way, chucked a rod, kept driving it and seized the motor. Apparently, checking the coolant once and again was beyond his technological skill set. Derp, derp. The End

I have never seen such a hack job oil change in my life from the over tighten of your oil filter to the vise grips hahahahah ahhah

Did you see any metal shavings on the drain plug?

motor flush worked for my car and its good practice for any car every so often but whether it works can depend on different things

I used motor flush, I then added engine restore in the new oil, Worked like a charm

Hi Chuck, with Apple drains! I love you video's! You will never know how helpful you are to many people. BUT you have never addressed my major problem. I have a washing machine on it's own field line and it is back filling and spilling over into the washroom. Do I need a plumber or a field line guy? Thanks for you vid's

NEVER use an oil filter wrench to tighten an oil filter, a firm hand tight application is more than enough, and please get the right size socket or wrench on the drain plug

Someone stripped the old drain plug so I bought a new one that I will now strip with vise grips also I've always been taught that you fill the filter half way and put some around the ring before hand tightening it idk maybe I'm crazy but to just dry install completely no wonder it is still knocking

talking with a buddy that's involved with GM Performance, he stated this lifter tick is common on the LS based engines. he has seen more so than not it's related to the O-ring breaking down on the pick up tube for the oil pump. since its above the liquid level it potentially can suck a little air passed the O-ring. personally it's done this on both service van I have had. 1st was a 6.0l most recently it's the 4.8l and it comes and goes randomly. not saying it's the same on every engine but it's a good place to start. also I might add his oil pressure in this video is not really that low to be honest

You can use trans fluid to keep the inside of your engine clean. Works good at cleaning and won't harm it. If it's a hydrolic lifter and feel like taking it apart you can use a vice to press out all the gunk in it. They get clogged up and sometimes stay closed due to build up in it. When they're clogged and closed up you will get a noise from it. It's a lot of work depending on the car and if you have someone else do it, it can cost a good amount of money. You can leave about a half a quart of trans fluid in your engine and drive on it. It will keep it clean. I hope this helps for anyone. I'm a mechanic and have done the trans fluid thing in one of my cars for over a year with no problems.

I have built engines for over 30 year while being a professional automotive technician. I had a Service manager at a dealership assign me a used Chevy pickup with lifter noise when hot. First thing was verify then install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. The truck had 7 psi hot oil pressure at idle. I told him that the oil pan needed to come down and the bearings needed to be inspected. He responded with just put lifters in it and see what happens. Needless to say the noise was still there. He authorized a lower end inspection and sure enough four and a half thousandth rod bearing clearance and three and a half on the mains. They all showed minor wear so I had parts get me slightly oversized bearings all around . The oil pressure problem was corrected and the noise was gone. He drove the truck to work and back for a week before admitting he was wrong.

Always pretreat your new oil filter with oil u will be amazed at the amount of oil a filter absorbs this will keep your motor from running dry during initial startup..

It does work but like many things it might be one of those items that only work when it's caught early enough. Tried it my 03 S10 with a 4.3 and nearly 300 000 km / 180 000 miles. It did fix the problem but I caught it early. Noticed it after I did an oil change, used it at my next oil change 5000km later and it did work. Motor oil that I drained was black as all hell after the flush way more so than normal.

I did MM motor flush, drove around with a little "hotrodding" off and on, then used WIX filter, Valvoline high mileage 10w30, and Lucas high mileage. Before my 6.0l sounded like a typewriter from the 1800s, and now it sounds like new. 364000 miles and fixing to drive from Texas to Michigan, then North Carolina.

"Don't over tighten oil filter" Right after he way over tightens oil filter.

Hello, did you ever figure out what the tick was from, I have similar tick on my truck, thanks.

I love the vice grips on oil drain plug...!!!! true pro..!!

The low oil pressure might be the o ring on the oil pickup tube.

ha! "someone had stripped it out before we bought it," let me grab my VICE GRIPS to take off the pan bolt.... sad.

Did you drain out a quart of oil before adding the motor flush?

Just saw a video on hydrolic lifter ticking, according to the BMW mekanic the lifters have to be bleed, the way to do that is when the car has been sitting, start up and rev the engin at 3000rpm for 2-3min, so as to get the oil pumping up into the head were it has been draining off. Ticking can also indicate that the oil has broken down and needs to be changed.

Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with oil works even better I'm sure, done that a few times and it flushed the lifters out around half the time. The other half, the lifters probably had a chunk of metal stuck in the tiny little holes in the lifters and the oil pressure wasn't enough to push it out.

I would suggest when you put your filter back on, to fill it with oil first. And use the right sized socket on your drain plug. And if you had always used 100% synthetic, you may not have had that problem.

I have a Jeep commander 2006 4.7 v8, same sound, the mechanic says that I have to change the whole distribution kit but it is expensive, I chose to add "Rislone Engine Repair" to see if I clean the engine and stop making noise. Based on your experience, you can tell me Has it worked for you? Won't it take away the noise?

Thanks for the video. it was helpful..these fools are hating bcuz you got 2 million views.

1. Drop the oil pan 2. Remove oil pick up sump 3. Is it dirty? Use correct solvents to clean it. If much debris exist in the bottom block remove as much crud as possible. If that doesn't help you need to check your bearings etc.. it's worth the try.

Its the hydraulic lifters which are making that tappy noise. Pull the valve cover and timing cover off. Release the tension on the cam gears and remove the camshafts. Clean the lifters and put back everything the way it was removed (just the opposite). You will get rid of that tappy noise and have much better function hydraulic lifters. The engine has possibly got another 150,000 miles in it. Please only hand tight the oil filter and use a spanner or socket to remove the the sump plug. Also please dont use 5W-30. 15-40W is probably the best suited oil given the mileage on the engine and the assuming you are not in freezing weather (wearing a t-shirt). Lastly dont waste your money on that lifter quiet, engine flush or whatever that was. Read the contents on that bottle, 90% would be hydrocarbons (diesel). I would suggest not putting anything but correct type of engine oil in the engine. If you must, use an engine oil for diesel engine (they have better cleaning properties) to flush the engine and do frequent oil changes to clean an engine of any sludge build ups.

that motor flush werks great on noisy radio bearings also you mite try readjusting your mufflurs tweek them towards the left of passenger side if that dont werk your valve stems have to get regapped

my 3.4 V6 GM has 108k on it - I use this motor flush with semi synthetic valvoline 5w30 on every oil change - I think it works if you use it BEFORE this stuff starts happening - I'm pretty sure it liquefies the sludge and build up in tight spots

I did this on a car I wasn't too bothered about and drove it with the flushing oil still in the engine. After ten miles, the tappet noise magically stopped, and after the oil change the engine was much more lively. It might be a risky thing to do, but in my case it definitely worked. I kid you not.

I had a side margin pop-up ad "Sponsored by Motor Medic at Walmart" I guess the ad geniuses didn't know this video is not favorable.

I would put some Marvel Mystery oil in the oil an the next change. Also, consider pouring the cleaning solvent into the engine thru the pcv, and oil breathers. This way, you can let the solvent drip down the valve passages. - might even let it sit up there for an hour so it dissolves some crud.

Sound auto mechanic advice from a plumber. 2 thumbs up!

That engine has a lot of miles and you should be running a thicker oil such as 10-40w or 15-40w plus an oil stabilizer. That should help with the noisy lifters and increase oil pressure.

Wow, that filter is WAY too tight! Holy Mother! It doesn't really matter what the manual calls for in terms of viscosity at that point given the mileage of the vehicle. I would personally run 15-40 during the summer and 10-30 in the winter, full syn like Royal Purple. You could very well have a lot of life left if cared for properly.

i have a question i have a 95 suburban with this same tic but the tic only comes when i put it in reverse and when im driving should i do the motor flush or just replace the lifter?

Could be making noise due to low oil pressure of course. Might want to try Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive. It works for me. One can every oil change. Good luck!

that's thin oil for how many miles it's got ,and that don't sound like a valve tick ,and vise grips really...

how not to change your... never use vice grips and you have to put oil on the seal of the new filter

I see you went top shelf with the oil, next time some full synthetic oil. I like to use Liqui Moly- just cross reference the oil weight to make sure it’s compatible.

With the kind of miles on the truck who knows why it is ticking. The first thing I do is put a pint of transmission fluid in the oil. The transmission fluid has high detergents and seal additives. You can drive it with it as it is a lubricant as well. It may take a few days to stop the tick. There way a product called Free Valve, but I haven't used it in years. Trans fluid isn't as good in my opinion, but works in many cases.

Lifters rarely cause issues on vehicles that are driven a lot. Much more likely on a high mile engine like this that you have a rocker worn past the auto-adjust range, or a cam lobe/roller that is worn. Pouring in snake oil will never fix worn metal.

He better go back and finish tightening that filter or it's going to fall off.

Yeah about those Frams,I got a hold of a new in box 1991 fram and a new in box 2006 fram and cut them open. They were both the same, CARBOARD!

i think my car has the same that clacking sound too, its coming from around under the engine, but that only happens when the engine temp is cold. i alwasy warm up the car before drive off, like usually after about 5mins or so the clacking sound just goes away. when the egine reaches working temp, theres no knocking or clacking sound. its a 10yr old turbo diesel engine and has been using 5w40 oil since brand new. any suggestions? thanks

Oil seal on the pickup tube not enough oil getting to the lifters

I can honestly say, I've never seen someone use vise grips to remove/install the drain plug

I have a Buick rendezvous cxl 2006. yesterday it started making a knocking noise , it was low on oil. do yiu know what coulf it be maybe ???

👏🏾👏🏾Thanks, Njoyed your video👏🏾👏🏾

yeah "someone""" had striped that plug... cough cough

I've used transmission fluid to quite lifter tick works most of time plus it's cheaper

I had the same noise one tappet put in ZX1 Lub it work a treat 2 bottles in engine sill going good and fills powerful it is on eBay. Jeff in uk

I got a 2004 f150 with a 6 banger with 223,000 for mileage that ran strong but had a good tick to it, I put a whole jug of hyperlube in and the recommended amount of marvel mystery oil and went to 10-30w oil and it sounds great......took about a week to fix it, I don't drive much....the mechanic in a can worked this time....

"Don't wanna over tighten your filter". Proceeds to tighten the living hell out of it

I think the flush cleaned out the the gunk, but I think the "knock" is from a worn out rod.

Back in the 80's the Ford 302 used to knock out the mains enough to bleed off so much oil that the supply to the lifters wasn't enough to keep them pumped up. We used to pull the pan and install a high volume oil pump. That would supply enough oil to overcome the loss at the mains and pump the lifters up. Note I said to use a *high volume* pump, NOT a high pressure pump as the only difference from a stock pump and high pressure pump is the relief valve, which makes no difference in this case. It's worth a hundred bucks to try it, if it were my truck. If it doesn't work, yank the motor and rebuild it: my guess is you're NOT going to find a broken lifter but instead worn out main and connecting rod bearings, with that many miles. If a lifter was going to break, it'll usually do that well before 100,000 miles. Pertinent questions if it becomes a rebuild. Do the pistons slap when cold? Does it have a weak cylinder? (do a compression test) If not, just replace the bearings and seals, use that new pump and you will likely get another 312,000 miles, maybe more.

Hi I am writing to help the creator of video and anyone else. My dodge charger sounded like your truck. I changed oil using 500,000 mile synthetic truck oil and 1 quart synthetic oil treatment. Anyway mine is super quiet now. Best 2 all.

As a mechanic and race engine builder for many many years, 5 minutes of above idle with an engine flush product at operating temperature will NEVER be enough to clean any sort of deposits built up. The 5 minutes is nothing more than a money maker from the ignorant person. The idea is to take the car for a good 50-100km run with the cleaner additive. With variations of heat and oil pressure, the costic solution has a chance to fully circulate and work at fouled deposits through out the engine. Then an oil change can be performed. The best flush out is and always will be a full engine REBUILD. Prevention is ALWAYS better than a cure. ALWAYS use premium fuels, oils and lubricants. These premium products have more additives and detergents in them designed to reduce friction and constantly clean deposits. And ALWAYS service your vehicle according to manufacturers specs. Even intermediate services make a HUGE difference long term. Reliability, durability and the over all structural integrity at a molecular level on engine components.

Hi there, I would say the oil pump needs replacement. pretty sure of that

why did he put a bag in his drain pan? was he gonna bag it up is it easier to wipe out later?

Should have used full synthetic and a good filter (or bypass filter setup) from the beginning when you got the truck. Some lucas engine oil stabilizer night help with the ticking on that old jalopy wagon.

I had the same lifter noise and mine was caused by debris blocking a lifter from pumping up all the way. I had tried Sea Foam twice with no avail. I tried 1qt ATF plus one bottle Sea Foam and drove 5 miles, no change. 20K miles after all those attempts I finally I put a cup of Dexron VI in the oil and drove it until the tick went away which was around 2K miles.

"You don't wanna over-tighten your filter." Dude you just totally over- tightened it. And unless I'm mistaken on size find yourself a 15mm wrench already.

I bought a used truck that ran great, but later developed a lifter tick. I flushed the motor 6 times, as the first time chunks of gunk plopped out, and lessened each flush. Still, after 6 flushes it still ticked! Then immediately (a couple days later) it developed a head gasket leak, and water got in the oil. I must have drove it with water in it for at least two days. I checked the oil and it was a milky white color, so yeah, water was in the oil. I bought a gasket sealer that I put in the radiator, and let it run for 15 minutes, drained and left all openings open as directed to dry for 24 hours. I actually let it dry for 48 hours, as I wasn't going anywhere anyway. I then refilled the water, and replaced the oil, and took off. The water in the oil eliminated the ticking noise! It also cleaned the motor like it had been soaked in lye! It was spotless inside! Well, at least the heads were spotless, so I assume the block was spotless as well. Conclusion: When all else fails...put a quart of water in the oil and drive it around for a few hours, then drain. You'll be surprised at the quality results.