@Maker Z a pitty the focus screw is on the inside... not sure if you can remove the front panel to access easier for the adjustment. Good luck with setting up!!

@@NEWTechCreative I believe you can buy adjustable lenses from NEJE from NEJE shop for this purpose. For you just doing engraving I don't think you need it and indeed maybe even the shorter the better for you to get less surface burn but for others more interested in cutting then I agree with most of the comments and the longer the focal point the better. A z axis with a stepper and a TOF laser distance module would be a great addition. Just park the laser over your work piece press a button and perfect focus every time (for engraving). You'd have to type in the thickness of the material so that it could work out the half way point for cutting.

Great question @Soul Relaxation Music . I’ve just measured and the base of the focus knob to the base of the red plastic is 22mm... so add this onto the measurements in the video 👍😁😁

@Jim Hannon Perfect!! The luxury of having a 3rd axis on the CNC 😁😁

Thanks for your comment @Soorena Aslani . No unfortunately I haven’t tried the long focal lens, however it sounds like it would be great to use it on deeper cuts!! I can comfortably engrave at 2500mm/s with my workbee setup, however I try to avoid scanning and filling large areas and try to keep to outlines only as much as possible for larger jobs as it does take some time. Good luck with the journey 😁👍👍

Thanks for the support Comgrow 😁

Thanks for your comment @J4N . It depends completely on what laser module you are using, however I would try 80mm/s at 95% on a 10cm line. If you have a focus lens on your laser, try adjusting furthest anti clockwise and try as I did in the video… if you are using a fixed focal lens, depending on what one you have it might only be a shallow focus and will drop off if too far away from material. Sorry I can’t give you a definitive solution however it will be trial and error! 👍

Thanks for your comment @Travis J. I control the laser through lightburn…, however lasers don’t play well with mach3!! I assume you have a mach3 control board, but unfortunately it only supplies on/off not variable control! They only way to use it on a mach3 platform is to deal with the on/off control or install a secondary grbl based control board. Unfortunately I don’t have much knowledge of or how this could work, but will have a play sometime down the track.

😂 knee slapper 😂

Thanks @Jer 1967 ! I initially was going to use the z axis to move on a vertical diagonal, however remembered not everyone has a 3rd axis with lasers, so figured why not let the material come to the laser instead🤩 I’m glad you enjoyed the video 😁😁

Thanks for your message @Tristan Sherriff . I’m not familiar with the 10w version, however sounds like you have dialed in well… unfortunately 10mm is very close compared to my 30w version and might have a short focal area, so cutting thick material will flare out and might not be as precise…. Although your setup will work well for clean/sharp engraving! I suggest doing a few tests before diving into bigger jobs. Thanks Tristan 👍

Mine is 45.3mm but this will be different on every module due to slight manufacture tolerances. 👍

Thanks for your message @vijay suthar . The suggested cutting parameters for cutting 3mm ply in one pass is 100% at 100mm/min, however I use about 95% power at 100mm/min with sometimes 3passes to cut through. It also depends what type of ply/timber used and glue on the timber with how many passes. I also suggest using air to clear any debris and smoke as it burns. I hope this helps 👍

@@NEWTechCreative thank you so much. Will try tomorrow. Really appreciate for your guidance.

@@NEWTechCreative i Try cut 3mm and don't work ;/ i use 100% and 2 pass. I don't use air.

Thanks for your comment @Антон Петров ! I’m using an arduino uno with grbl. There are issues with Mach3 running lasers and would consider using a dual setup with mach3 and grbl if you are considering of adding a laser module. I’m using lightburn software to create gcode and control the laser.

Thanks for your message! The one I’m using is called: ‘Mist coolant lubrication spray system’. However I use this with my CNC milling as well. You might be interested in just a flexible air hose if you only need air. 👍👍

@@NEWTechCreative thanks for the response. Yes, I only need air, but I find it is hard to direct the air flow to the exact point where laser make contact with material if just using a flexible air hose. Or at least it is hard to recalibrate everytime I want to adjust the laser head or material thickness for example. Is it just my believe that the air flow direction need to be on the exact contact point between laser and material?

This is a good question @Yudianto Luo ! As I only use the laser for engraving, the sole purpose of my air assist is to redirect smoke away from the laser lens to avoid build up of residue and cool down the burnt surface, so I really don’t require precision with the air flow with engraving. If you require air assist for cutting through material, I would install a 3D printed air assist nozzle… there seems to be a few different versions out there that give more prediction with air flow. I believe the main reason for precision air when cutting through is to stop charging/causing a fire, removing any debris and forcing smoke away from lens! This does impact cutting quality somewhat. Hope that helps!

@@NEWTechCreative ​ Now everything make sense. Yes, I use 3d printer nozzle for air assist, but found it counterproductive with engraving. It created char with same direction with the air flow. But for cutting a material sometimes it decrease the pass needed, but sometimes it won't due to lack of pointing accuracy. Thanks, learn something here.

Thank you @Gino Laurita . I’m using lightburn for all laser projects! 👍

@@NEWTechCreative dear you can make some video on how to use lightburn software I think it is very useful all those thees I dint not use lightburn software correctly you can make a video on how to use light burn software correctly it is very useful me pleas do it

@giuseppe danieli- I would agree with you here! My main use is to engrave only, however I wouldn’t invest long periods of time to cut timer with the laser as it’s not equatable for time and money.... luckily I have my spindle for rapid cutting!! It’s a shame that yours has not lasted long. I would consider contacting the company where you purchased for replacement as NEJE promote that the lifetime should be 10,000-20,000 hours!! Do you use air assist?

I've just build my first air assist, mostly for smoke and dirt...About the LD the problem is the loss of power, and is normal with pulsed LD, but for engraving is still ok. Now I'll try the 40W model that use two LD and have an optical output of 11÷13 Watt but same dimension of 30W model, thinking about how to drain more heat from the module. I'll keep in touch for next video. Ciao from Arenzano, Liguria west coast, North Italy.

To my knowledge mach3 doesn't handle laser module very well - it can only output constant signal - not variable signal. I would upgrade to another type of cnc controller if you want a laser module.

G’day @AKKA ! I’m using an arduino uni with grbl. I have got a Mach3 board that I will upgrade to in the future… but haven’t tested the laser on it yet sorry!!

@@NEWTechCreative could you elaborate? Or point to a video that you used? I'm trying to incorporate this laser onto my AVID cnc which uses Mach4, but I'm having trouble sourcing any info on how to go about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

@@ned_mograph5957 thanks for your comment. I'm not familiar with mach4 control boards, however I'm sure this is possible. You will have to look into what type of control board you have already and outputs available to attach the laser PWM signal to. This is usually an output pin and a ground pin. If you are stuggling to find anything in google, your welcome to send me a photo of your control board to newtechcreative@gmail.com

@@ned_mograph5957 I found this link that i think could assist you... warp9td.com/index.php/gettingstarted/setting-up-the-smoothstepper-and-mach4#EssLaserConfig

?? I’m not sure on your question Guvna. This is the standard focus lens on my NEJE. You need to focus this type of lens before use… different to fixed lenses on other modules.

@Iron man I’m using a cheap 12v car air compressor from the local hardware shop. I’m not happy with it as it can only be used for 15mins before needing to cool down. I’m in the process for exploring other options and will post when I’ve found a better option.

@@NEWTechCreative thx.

Hello, what kind of opening you use with your simple air compressors? I have a decent airflow using an aquarium pump as air compressor and a 3d printer nozzle 0.4mm as tip. the small exit compresses the air to become good enough to serve as air assist on my Ortur LM2.

Haha! Yes I understand your point… however it was the only side I could reach at the time and if I flipped the calipers the camera wouldn’t see the digital screen! You have a good eye Derek 😆

Thanks for your comment! Try less power (50-80% at 3,500mm/min), a steeper ramp or faster pass… the 40w is a powerful unit. Aim for a light burn not a dark burn 🔥 👍👍

Tnx

Great question! Unfortunately I’m sure sorry as I’m holding off installing my mach3 control board and still using my Arduino Uno grbl. There seems to be many videos on mach 3 lasers, so would suggest checking these out!!

Thanks for your comment Rifqi adi prayogi. The hose that I’m am using in this video is called a ‘Mist Coolant Spray System’ and just using a 45w fish tank air pump to pump air through, however I know that there are many attachments available for air assist that are 3D printed, but you will have to do some research! Thanks for your support 😁

Thanks for your comment @Margery Maraudy . You are correct that your yellow wire needs to be connected to the laser output of the MKS board and red wire to the +12v(positive) out and black to the -12v(ground) out. The only concern is that you have enough power supplied to the mks board to support the motors and laser module… to check, you will need to calculate your motor max output amperage and an extra 3amps for the laser module…. I would be safe to say you need a 12v 10amp power supply to easily power everything through the mks board. If you decide to power the laser module using the red and black wire with an external power supply, you will need to split the back wire both to the -12v(ground) on eternal power supply and -12v(ground) on the mks board output to ensure the yellow wire has a return ground signal. Once all connected, ensure that you have changed your $$ grbl settings to laser control and adjusted your parameters as needed. I hope this helps! Thank you

@@NEWTechCreative Thanks for your reply but I am still at a loss. I selected a 5A power supply and the NEJE is only 30W so 2.5A is required and that leaves 2.5A for the two NEMA and the board which should be plenty enough. My knowledge is very poor (I understand negative/positive and I don't know why negative is also called ground which in electricity is something else, all the other bits of the PCB remain a wonderful mystery lolllll). I still don't get on which port of the MKS board I am supposed to plug in the 3 pin Y/B/R connector. On the NEJE adaptor board it is written: 12V, GRND and TTL and I expected I'd only have to plug into one of the MKS ports...but which one? I can't find any port marked 12V/GND/TTL. Am I supposed to remove the JST connector and connect the 3 wires in different places on the MKS? NB: the eternal supply is, I suppose, the big green thingymebob. I tried connecting the one on the adapter to the one on the MKS respecting polarity but I obtained no result. On the MKS, I have five 3-pin ports: 3 for the endstops, one marked "Extra" and the other "Probe". I think I should stop bothering you and get a reply directly from NEJE if I can on the question of "where the heck do I plug this one and if it does not plug directly why did you put a JST at the end ?" lolllll If I don't I'll keep trying and blow up the PCB as so often lollll. Thank you very much for your kind reply.

@@NEWTechCreative Ah ah..... I reckon the penny has dropped after a littly experiment ! The laser port is for the control of the laser and the 3 mysterious wires ARE the power supply which is exactly the opposite of what I thought. I'll read your instructions carefully and try to apply them. Pray for my MKS DLC lollll

Great to hear @Margery Maraudy ! Let me know how it goes. 👍

Just to keep you posted: 1) the NEJE 40630 will require an independant power supply as the MKS DLC advises 20W max for the laserhead. 2) the wiring can't be that obvious as NEJE informed me an engineer was working on it and he required a few days (crumbs!) Hope their reply will help others in future.

Yes @LIONWAR CHANNEL it can cut mdf! Good luck with the laser journey 👍

@@NEWTechCreative I tried cutting MDF but did not succeed. Looking for settings. Please if you can share it. Thanks in advance

Great question @Prisma Arte Laser! To be honest with my laser I really don’t know. I can with the spindle though! If your interested cutting acrylic often, I would suggest investing in a C02 laser…. This would save time and be much cleaner.

@@NEWTechCreative Obrigado pela resposta!

@@NEWTechCreative Golden acrylic is like an ordinary mirror. If you have tested the recording on the back of a mirror, I imagine the result will be the same.

@Prisma Arte Laser - The laser might be able to engrave the gold film (will need to test), however will not be able to cut through clear acrylic.

Thanks for your comment @Mendella Carter . I assume your referring to the control board? I’m using an arduino Uno with grbl then connecting to my pc running UGS for milling and lightburn for laser engraving/cutting.

@@NEWTechCreative cool thanks for the reply and what is the setup you have for the router is the footprint custom or kit

@Mendella Carter I have a kit workbee with a water cooled 2.2kw spindle and 2x 80mm spindle mounts purchased separately. Heavily shielded cables ensure no EMI as they run back to the control box under the Workbee. The table is custom. Feel free to check out my previous videos on the build 😄😄

Thanks for your message! I’m using a NEJE 30W laser ‘new model’ module. Thank you

Thanks for your comment @Darkrider1962 . Sorry to hear you haven’t had good luck with the Module. I’ll keep an eye out for my power levels, however I haven’t had any issues as yet. I would attempt to contact NEJE any way in case there is something they can do. Thanks for watching 😁

@@NEWTechCreative I did contact NEJE. I was given the run around and then when I got all the requirements done. They said "when it dies completely contact them again". This was after giving them a video of the problem. Good luck if you ever try to warranty.

That’s correct! The name of the laser is NEJE 30W, but in fact it only draws 7.5W with the laser. This is common knowledge with NEJE lasers, however I think this is a good point if I ever do a review video.

@@NEWTechCreative yea its just like saying my car has 300 horse power and it actualy has 120

Not particularly @Martijn V ... more like saying it’s a 30w module.... module meaning that it supplies 30w to both the fan, components and laser diode.. Module doesn’t refer to the laser diode! Feel free to read more about the NEJE 30w laser module on their official website!

@@martijn4740 To be honest, that is exactly what the pre 1972 horsepower standard in the US was: An engine without any accessories. So in real life that engine was never putting out the advertised amount of power because of all the accessories the engine also had to drag along.

@@NEWTechCreative To be clear, the laser module draws up to 30W from the power supply. The diode delivers up to 7.5W of optical output. It's not unfair advertising; It's just the way diodes are marketed. Even C02 lasers are marketed this way. Buy a 100W C02 and then open the back and read the tube and you'll see it's 80-90W of continuous power.