Very chill music in this vid

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Merci beaucoups!

Thanks for watching!

You're welcome!

Hi! All the bolts on any motorcycle needs to be tightened to a specific torque according to the workshop manual. But I only care about that for engine moving parts, or even brakes or suspension bolts. The bolts on this oil change doesn't require much tightening, in fact too much would strip the engine case. Just tighten lightly with small spanners, and whithout going crazy. If it's important for you, please consider buying a good workshop manual. That would be your best tool, and the torques are specified for each bolt. Cheers.

yes, it is exactly the same engine, and you must do the same process. greetings from Chile!

If it's very slightly it's not a big deal. Otherwise empty a little bit of oil. Cheers!

Thanks for watching!

No

It depends on your area climate, but shouldn't be a problem. This is a old style engine, it probably works fine with cooking oil hahaha (just joking)

Just found this for you, a 20w50 would probably be better: www.manualslib.com/manual/1598504/Suzuki-Rv125.html?page=9#manual

Hi, sorry for the delay. It's to avoid having the engine running whithout oil flowing for a couple of seconds. But not really important. If you havn't filled the filter, start the engine for a few seconds, stop it and after a minute or two start it again. By then the filter should be filled with oil.

@@coastrider8881 thank you. Greatly appreciated.

Yes... but your bike will burn

Yes but I’d you did your bike will burn into ash so I recommend not doing that

Yes, with some minor differences

Salut, c'est marqué sur le couvercle, a côté du bouchon de remplissage.

Obrigado!

Found one

Thank you!

Hi Bertold, thanks for watching the video. Could you explain why is not recomended? it could be useful for the viewers.

@@coastrider8881 It is just my personal experience. When I wrote that comment I had just watched a KZfaq video explaining why not to use synthetic oil. Something to do with the size of the molecules bypassing gaskets. I have since watched other videos that try to debunk all that stuff. So my philosophy now is, if it works for you, do it. That comment was too flipant, sorry. But I now use mineral oil. The synthetic oil was turning into thin air. Getting past the piston rings that are perhaps on the limit after 55,000 kilometers? Not sure. No smoke on startup or when riding, nothing I have changed from 10w-40 to 15w-40 too. The problem is gone.

Thank you for sharing your point of view. My experience is synthetic in old design engines is more prone to go through gaskets and pistons rings in very or badly used engines, but also reduce the friction and heat. I also use 15w40 or even 20w50 in very warm areas. The VanVan user manual says nothing about mineral or synthetic so it's up to the user. I'd use synthetic in low mileage or very well cared engines, and semi or full mineral in very used engines. These engines are old design and not very powerful nor with high RPM use, so a mineral oil is definitely not going to hurt them. Cheers.