Yeah i agree with what you have said for sure. I do always seal the bottom and also seal round it with silicone. I should have mentioned that in the vid!

I was looking for this comment before I said the same thing, that going to swell with water and ruin the kitchen, cut up edge

@@desertrose9919 If the floor is out of level, you will have to scribe and cut the bottom, just seal the cut edge!

If it's a remodel the floors aren't always perfect so you'll have no choice but cut the bottom edge. You can always edge band it with a similar color before installing or seal it with a liquid product or silicone.

I agree. Never cut a panel at the floor. Caulking isn't helping. Caulking and it's evil twin "quarter-round" has no place in a "job well done" execution...in my opinion 😊

Glad you liked it! Thank you for the comment😁👍🏼

Thank you for watching! If you give it a go you will have to let me know how you get on!👍🏼

No worries, happy to help! Thank you

That is a top tip! I have a close call daily but still forgot every time i use them to face them the other way😂 thanks for watching!

thats why you should always have safety specs on

I guess you didn’t see it coming?

@@naebadyerselI’m more worried about my Nutz.

Top tip, I've got a lovely scar on my head from one of those

Thanks a lot for the comment! Appreciate it👍🏼

You’re welcome, thanks for watching! You will have to let me know how you get on with it! Look forward to hopefully hearing back from you!😄

Thank you! I personally find it so much easier doing it this way but you will have to let me know how you get on with it! I have plenty of them planned soon. Thank’s for watching!👍🏼

Glad it worked out well for you! Thank you for watching😄👍🏼

Thank you! Happy to help!👍🏼

Thanks a lot! Well noticed :)

Glad it was helpful! I’m interested to know how you get on so please let me know! Thanks for commenting!😄

Thank you for watching!

No worries, thanks👍🏼

No worries! Appreciate the comment😄👍🏼

Appreciate the comment! Thank you👍🏼 haha yeah i suppose it is a bit risky but on the plus side… I haven’t bust through one yet😆 Hopefully, i will still be able to say the same in the future🤞🏼😆 if you’re not that used to drilling holes a little bit of masking tape works well as a depth marker

I’m pretty sure he knows the lengths of the screws

I personally find it easier this way and once you have the off cuts of timber saved you can keep re-using them for multiple end panels. But it’s just my opinion😄 thank you for watching

Thank you! Glad you liked it! And that saying is very true👍🏼

No problem, Thanks Jay

Tried this method and it worked a treat😁

Glad to hear it!😄

It’s actually a quick and easy way of doing It I would say personally. I get that it looks a bit tedious in the video having to make that bit you clamp on and scribe with but you can use the same one for jobs in the future. Also a lot of the time you don’t really need to sand it but just wanted to make sure it was as close as possible for the vid👍🏼

Thank you! You will have to let me know how you get on! Hopefully the little trick works well for you! Haha yeah they will hopefully be spot on then!😆👍🏼

Happy to help!😁 Thanks a lot for watching!

Thank you! Appreciate the comment!👍🏼

It definitely is! Thanks a lot😁👍🏼

Glad it will help! Hope all goes to plan🤞🏼👍🏼 Thanks a lot for the comment!😁

Thanks for the comment👍🏼

Thanks a lot mate! They are honestly brilliant, would recommend one to anyone!😁

Thanks a lot! Appreciate the comment😁

Thank you for watching! And taking the time to comment! Glad it helped😄👍🏼

Thank you, if you ever try it be sure to let me know how you get on😄👍🏼

Thank you Bill!!

Thanks! I haven’t actually fitted a solid wood one before. As long as it is sealed with a bead of silicone i don’t think it would cause many issues without the PVA but it may be worth doing anyway for a bit more reassurance. The chipboard/ mdf soaks up any moisture like a sponge so it is a lot more important. Appreciate your comment👍🏻

Thank you for watching! I don’t fit many kitchens to be honest but if i get any come up soon i will have to try them. Just watched your vid on the plinth locks and they look like a great idea👍🏼

@@mwjoinery Thanks keep up the good work.

Will do! Thanks😄

No problem! Thank you for watching and for the comment👍🏼

Thank you Jason

Thank you! If the floor is level I would stick with doing it your way. That’s what I do. But if it’s in need of a scribe this method works well. Just make sure to seal the bottom. Thanks again👍🏼

Thank you!

Thank you!👍🏼 I always seal across the floor anyway which I forgot to mention in the video but i get your point completely. I might try that on the next one i do, cut the top and then use this method to scribe the panel to the wall. Unless the floor is a mile out😁👍🏼

@@mwjoinery exactly. Nothing worse after 6 months and the panel is bubbled cause the customer has been mopping the floor. As said, some fantastic tips in this vid 👏🏻

Yeah, will definitely take that on board. Thanks again👍🏼

Thanks a lot! Will have to let me know how you get on! Yeah, i did seal this after the video but completely forgot to mention it in the vid👍🏼

UScribe jigs are a must. Best invention and simple too

Yeah it is a handy method. Just remember to seal it at the bottom if you do use this method. It can be any size as long as the piece you clamp on is the exact same as the one you run across the floor. This is why (like In the video) I cut them out of the same piece so I know they are the exact same. That is the only important measurement, can just be thin bits of offcuts as long as it hooks on the cabinet ok. Thank you for watching👍🏼

Thanks for the reply!

No problem at all😁

Thank you! I’ll be honest, I have never tried it on a larder unit but as long as the wood you use is thicker than the overhang (as i showed at the start of the vid) and both the exact same thickness I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Might just struggle if there isn’t much space between the top of the unit and the ceiling👍🏼

Thank you

Thank you! Got plenty planned for the near future so keep your eyes out!😀👍🏼

Thank you!

We make stainless countertops and are sales guy can't get them right ever! He's been doing this for over 30years.

But I like your tips.

Hi, thank you for that! Everytime I have used this method it has worked so I believe so. As long as you offer the panel up to the unit first and make sure that the timber you use to clamp on and scribe with is bigger than how much the panel overlaps the unit. If that doesn’t make much sense, let me know and I will try and explain better. It’s hard to explain over a message😆 Thanks again!

No problem, thank you for the comment!

I also pva the bottom and since filming the video I have sealed it with some clear silicone. I should have mentioned that but completely forgot if I’m honest. As for cutting the bottom, I would prefer to cut the top of the panel if the floor is perfectly level but if it needs scribing to the floor the bottom has to be cut to match up with the floor. Thank you for watching👍🏼

Thank’s for the feedback. I do normally silicone it but i wanted to get the small bit of skirting done to the left of it before. Also, I normally add a couple of layers of pva to the cut side for an extra barrier. Should have mentioned both of them in the video but completely forgot to be honest mate

Many times on higher end kitchen and bathroom your panels will 100% of the time be solid

Thank your for watching!

Thanks a lot! The last one i did had a plastic seal and i tried putting it between the wood that hooks on and the cabinet. It raised it that little bit more and ended up working really well. Thank you for subscribing👍🏼👍🏼

Thanks a lot, really appreciate it! Yeah, i used the exact same off cuts and just made sure they was both facing the same way as each other.

In all honesty I haven’t done that many kitchens yet but i have tried this method a few times and it has worked well every time. Every time i have done it, i put the doors on first. It’s just important to remember to adjust the door so that it is level before doing the scribe. If not the end panel won’t finish level and will follow the door. If you did it without the doors and did the scribe to the carcass, you would need to add the thickness of the door (plus a couple of mm for adjustment) the bit of timber you clamp on the end panel. Hope this makes some sense?😆 Thanks for watching!

Thanks a lot! And thanks for watching👍🏼

Thanks Garviel!👍🏼

There was a tiny gap at the bottom of the wall where the plaster finishes but that’s because the skirting board will cover it. As for the rest of the gaps they was pretty good, but it has been sealed now with a bit of silicone to finish it off

Hi, sorry for the late reply. I normally get notifications for comments but have only just seen this one. Before getting my track saw i made a track for my circular out of a few bits of mdf and that worked pretty well. When i used that along with a sharp blade there was hardly any breakout so could just cut from the face side. I would definitely recommend knocking one of them up if you have any materials spare. If not maybe just transfer the marks round each end. Join them up with a straight edge and cut a few mm to the waste side. Can always flip it over and then sand to your line. Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching👍🏼

@@mwjoinery thanks for the reply and advice 👍

No worries at all, thanks again😄

Thank you, appreciate the comment! I am planning on taking it a bit more serious and currently have 3 videos nearly finished so they will be coming soon. Thanks again👍🏼👍🏼

@@mwjoinery no worries bro, thanks for the tip, I’ll be using that this week! I’ve subscribed and turned on notifications so I’ll not miss your vids. Thanks for the efforts mate, a lot of work goes into making videos like this and it’s hard enough getting work done without the added hassle of filming it. So just wanted to say how much it’s appreciated man and wish you loads of luck with the woodworking and the channel

It is definitely worth trying and you will have to let me know how you get on with it! Just remember to seal the bottom of the end panel. I forgot to add that in the video👍🏼 It does add a fair bit of time onto doing stuff but I really enjoy doing it so I am trying to make some more time for it! Finally have a workshop set up at home so there will definitely be videos coming soon! Will be more the making side of things rather than this video so I hope you still enjoy. Thank you for taking the time to comment it means a lot😁👍🏼

@@mwjoinery No worries bro, been in the trades 20 years and I know what it takes to be good. It’s not a skill you learn, it’s something you have to become. And you’re well on the way mate and to see it is pleasing in and of itself. Also, I wanna learn how to build and fit my own kitchens so I’ve got my fingers crossed for your future content! Also, what do you seal it with? I assume you do it before taking the masking tape off, as it’s already protecting the face?

Thank you! To be honest with you kitchens aren’t something I get to do very often as I’m more bench joinery based but would love to make my own kitchen in the future so who knows! The guy who first showed me that technique used to seal it with a bit of pva on the cut side and he left the tape on so I have always done the same. Then seal it to the floor with some clear silicone once it’s in position😁

Not 100% sure but i think it will have been 120 grit👍🏼

@@mwjoinery I appreciate it!

Yeah, it might not work in every situation but if it’s a complete new kitchen you would fit the worktops after the end panels. I also fitted the flooring before doing the end panel in this situation

If you offer the full sized end panel up to the cabinet, the panel will be bigger than the cupboard. For example it may be 30mm bigger on the top. In this case, if you use something under 30mm and clamp it on. It wouldn’t lift the end panel up of the ground. If you used anything over 30mm, for example 40mm. That would allow you to clamp it to the panel and hook it on the cabinet as i do so in the vid. As long as you use a block on the floor what is the exact same size, you can run it along the floor and that will follow any contours. As long as that is done correctly, cut to the line and it should drop down and finish perfectly level with the top. Hope this helps, if not let me know and i will try and explain better. Thank you!😄

@@mwjoinery, thanks for the quick answer, now I understand.

No worries at all, thanks for watching

Never thought of that but i like the suggestion! Will give that a try at some point! Thank you

I was taught to do them flush so I stick with that👍🏼

@@mwjoinery flit is then😁

Especially after seeing what others have suggested I would only do this if the floor is in need of scribing. If it’s level I would just cut the top of the unit. If I did do it this way I would also seal it but forgot to mention that in the video. Thank you! It is a really handy technique and comes in useful quite often😁👍🏼

Yeah if the floor is level I will cut the top just to prevent this. If I use this way to scribe it to the floor I would seal it with a few coats of pva but forgot to include that in the vid. Thank you for watching!😁

@@mwjoinery No worries, but regardgless good trick !

@@bucu Thanks again!😁

If the floor is level i would put the cut side up but if the floor is noticeably out of level, i was taught to do it this way and add a couple of layers of waterproof pva then silicone it. How would you go about it if the floor is out of level? Thank you for the feedback!

@@mwjoinery OK ignore my comment that makes absolute sense! Thanks for sharing and great work!

You definitely made a good point, i should have explained that a bit more in the video. Thank you!👍🏼

It's sealed with a bead silicone for one and second of all if the edge banding is on, it hasn't been scribed has it so it'll be gap city if you have an uneven floor 🤦‍♂️

@@alisterkelly4052 You can scribe it without removing the factory edgebanding on bottom, but it needs a little more thinking. Silicon still works well for the first 3-4 years.

@@MrDabadas no you can't because if the edgebanding isn't removed then the board edge remains flat, it has therefore not been scribed and doesn't remotely match the floor shape

I just coat the cut edge with yacht varnish then run a final bead of silicone around the bottoms of of all plinths and decor panels when the kitchen is finished

Thanks for the feedback. I would normally add a couple of coats of pva on the cut side before sealing just for a bit more protection. I should have mentioned that in the video but completely forgot to be honest with you.👍🏼

Thank you daz!

Hi, Thank you for watching! I used a mafell track saw and the mafell fine cut blade. If you are after a cheaper alternative i would probably recommend a jigsaw and a downwards cutting blade so it reduces the breakout on the important side of the panel. Would also make sure you use masking tape before cutting as that also helps reduce breakout👍🏼

Thanks for the tips, I can't hire the saw but I have a jigsaw electric plane & electric sander , so I think I have a chance of making a descent job , thanks .

Hi, thank you for watching and commenting! This method only really works with base units to get them flush to the floor. Am I right in thinking you are doing an end panel on one of the wall units or have i misunderstood? If so it’s hard to explain over a message so i have a search on youtube and there is a video called ‘wren kitchens infinity: wall decor panel installation’ and that is pretty similar to how i wold do it

@@mwjoinery hi yeah exactly that its an end panel for larder unit. Ive seen that video i was thinking of doing it like that but then it means ive got to make two cuts. One at the bottom one at the top because unfortunately for me the floor is also uneven lol. Thank you for taking the time to reply though i appreciate it.

Ohhh right,If it is a larder unit and you have plenty of height in the kitchen… you can still use my method you just thicker off cuts. I will try explaining the best i can but just make sure you check all of your measurements before cutting because I don’t want to make you mess up your end panel if I don’t explain it very good but here goes😆 offer the end panel up to the larder like i did on the vid. Put an off cut of the 40mm pelmet on top of the end panel and measure from the top of the larder to the top of the end panel (including the pelmet off cut). You will need 2 off cuts the exact same thickness (like i did on the vid) but they have to be thicker than the overhang that you previously measured. Once you have them, take the pelmet away and clamp the off cut to the top of the panel. Then put the pelmet on the larder unit and hook the end panel on. Then use the other off cut to mark along the bottom and it will compensate for the pelmet and leave an extra 40 mm on the top. Hope this helps?

And as for the floor, that’s typical that it’s uneven… would be far too boring if it was nice and parallel…😳😆😆 Thanks again

@@mwjoinery you sir are an absolute legend. Totally understand that. Amazing, thank you ever so much for taking the time to reply to my comment . Ive subbed you too

I used 28mm screws. They want to go through the carcass (18mm) and then just half way or so into the end panel. Thank’s for watching!

@@mwjoinery sound mate thanks for that 👌🏽 fitting my first kitchen soon so the video will definitely come in handy!

No problem at all, good luck with that! Hope everything goes as planned!🤞🏼😆

They are yes

Sorry for the slow reply, i must have missed this comment. They do on certain materials like i have found them to slip ever so slightly on laminate worktops. The majority of materials the track is very secure. If comes with clamps what are brilliant to use if needed

I can’t say i have ever even fitted an angled base unit mate. Sorry, but wouldn’t want to try give any advice and end up causing any problems😆 thank you for watching👍🏼

It doesn’t have anything to do with the size of the block as long as they are the exact same size as each other. The end panels are oversized so if you slide that to the wall it will stick out past the cupboard for example it may be 20mm. In this case as long as the blocks are bigger than 20mm this method will work. It’s quite hard to explain over a message but I could show it in person very easily😆 if you don’t understand let me know and I will try and explain it better. Thank you for watching👍🏼

No problem, thank you for watching👍🏼

@@mwjoinery Bro, just did an end panel on an 8 foot cabinet. Had to screw the block in at the top because the clamp interfered with the ceiling. But by golly I got the scribing absolutely perfect thanks to you.

Awesome! Glad it worked out well😄

Thank you! Yeah, got plenty more ideas i want to turn into videos very soon😀👍🏼

Yes mate, all i would say is use downward cutting blades and maybe leave it a bit further away from the line and sad up to it. You just want to avoid breaking the panel out as much as possible👍🏼

@@mwjoinery great tip. thank you.

No probs, thank you for watching and also commenting!

just subscribed. keep em coming. cheers.

Thanks! Have plenty planned so should be with you soon😄

It does yeah, if they are very bad it may be worth using a smaller block that runs along the wall so that it follows the contours a little better

I do have a handy little jig for doing wall panels. The only problem is I never really get chance to fit kitchens anymore. If one comes up I will try and make a video on it. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I do have plans to make some very soon just waiting on getting a better camera so i can make some better quality vids!😀 really appreciate your comment!

Thanks for watching! I believe that one is 48 tooth and I like to use that for most things. Then i tend to just swap it for something a bit less fine when cutting sheet material👍🏼

Thank you! Yeah I must have recorded that and then adjusted it slightly after recording. Well spotted though😆 thanks for watching

I can’t say I’ve ever used them. Keep meaning to get some ordered because they do look pretty good

Yes mate, that’s a fair point. I should have mentioned this in the video👍🏼 thank you for watching though and commenting😄

That wouldn't be accurate if the floor runs uneven

@Stu Hill uneven doesn't matter as long as its flat. Only ever fitted one kitchen where they had a cobbled floor. 👍

@Stu Hill turn your panel face in to the unit. Mark across the top of the unit then cut from underneath. Just saved you hours of messing around. 😁😁😁

I agree that is the easiest way but unless the wall and floor is perfectly flat, you can be left with small gaps. Still a good way of doing it though so thanks for the comment👍🏼

Yeah that’s still a good method. I just find this one quicker and easier personally. I get the video makes it seem like a lot more work but I just keep them bits of timber to clamp on and it can be done in no time. Thank you for watching👍🏼

@@mwjoinery sorry mate,I should have said your method is good aswell! Everyone has got their own way of doing things and I would use your method in the right situation 👍

No worries at all, I like to know how other people do it😁👍🏼

Yeah, that is a very good point to be fair. It’s worked out very well on all of the ones i have done in the past but understand it would affect it if the floor was massively out. Thank you for watching and for the feedback!👍🏼

So what’s the solution ? Because if you did the side first the problem will occur when the bottom drops after

@@1spiders1 There isn’t much of a solution (or at least I haven’t found one yet). I always do the floor first as it only has to slide back 10-20mm or so. If it ends up ever so slightly out on the floor, it’s not too bad as it will be sealed anyway. In all the times i have tried it, it’s only had very small gaps which will seal easily. As for the wall cut, i always do that second just because i want that to be perfect to the wall because it won’t be getting sealed. Thank you for the comment!

Could you not do both scribes simultaneously? Four bits of wood, four clamps, one scribe line that traverses the wall and floor in one go?

​​@@1spiders1there isnt really one. Template it if you want to make it perfect. Otherwise scribing with smaller stock would already improve results a lot if the floor/wall is out by a lot. The smaller the stock, the smaller the offset from the actual position you are scribing to.

Cost about £600 so not cheap at all but worth its weight in gold! One of my favourite tools for sure!

got a link?