Don't resist the urge!! Take it to bits!!!!!!!!

of course obvious just never had a clue,thanks

More like KlöMö/Eaton www.maschinensucher.de/pic/large/Schuetz-Klueckner-Moeller-DIL-00M-1/1799559.jpg

That looks like it but wrong colours. Here's a telemecanique: sigma.octopart.com/10072577/image/Telemecanique-LC1D50B7.jpg

My thoughts exactly

its a rip off of a telemecanique LC1 D09F7 two generations out of date

thats a D50 which is a 50 Amp version

The knowledge creeps in stealthily. You only realise you have it when you can suddenly understand schematics.

Nahh it's "Do It Yourself" just spelled wrong :-)

I knew someone would be faster than me to post it...

@My Playhouse you sure? I thought it was "National Dyslexic's Association".

WOW Seegal... I always thought it was the latter. Thanks for the real thing.

I'd love to do a failure mode analysis on those.

Yeah I live in Kansas a.c. went out I know enough to take a look and fall had just hit so cold st night but hot during the day, anyway air shut off so the ants had built there nest up there at night cuz it was warm.

I never seen those, most problem on the HVAC part i work on it having a welded contact

Similar problem in Australia. Our A/C outdoor units get a 6-monthly spray of persistent insecticide to prevent this "problem" (failures arising from such "external sources" are NOT covered by equipment warranties!)

That's what happened to my AC unit! Made a forum post out there because I thought it was super uncommon, guess not: hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?2235721-Bug-in-contactor-caused-AC-compressor-buzz

I once repaired outdoor equipment and concluded that certain ants were attracted to various power rails. I think 48v DC was one of the popular flavours.

Pyrrha Nikos when you have a contactor setup with forward/reverse wiring, both contactors better not be drawn down at the same time. Usually you have the coils wired through the NC aux contact so you have electronic interlock

Yeah, that's switching 101, really. No what I meant was (and not I'm not even sure if that's what he meant in the video) that it's in theory possible to bridge, say, contacts 11 and 13 when jamming a plain old metal screwdriver in there, assuming the contactor is old or broken or cheap or any combination thereof. And since 11 usually is on L1 and 13 is usually on L2... nasty things might happen.

Pyrrha Nikos that can't/shouldn't happen by design, the manufacturer has to get several type test certificates to sell his stuff and the possibility to touch live contacts won't help them get these 😉 what Clive meant was simply that you shouldn't press a contactor in by hand if you are not sure that there are others drawn down that could cause trouble by shorting something or mess up the routine of the plc or hardwired controls

That's not what he meant, if you look at a star/delta starter circuit the star point is shorted on the other side of the contactor, but if you bring the delta contactor in at the same time you short all 3 phases through the star point. Ryan also brings up a good point, in that case you'd short 2 phases instead of all 3. Plenty of BOOM though - I've seen the aftermath of an engineer thinking "Oh we don't need interlocking contacts she'll be right!"

Christopher Andrews Exactly what I said! There are many more typical circuits where pushing in a wrong contractor would lead to a fatal error. one example is star/delta of course. but there is also a serious chance of fucking up the control circuit if you push in random relais or contactors even if you don't blow everything up by shorting something. shoving a screwdriver up to the contact is unlikely if you don't use brute force to push it in

It looks very similar to the Schneider ones my work uses for iragation

All of the reasonable to good quality ones will look pretty much identical to this. It's the quality control that's important. I am much more comfortable installing the 110$ Schneider vs the 10$ ebay special.

also looks similar to the ABB contactors we use

Ave recently compared a name brand relay to a cheap chinese relay. There were quite some differences, most notably in the contacts which were build to last a lot longer. Plus, for the industrial reputable brand relay / contactor you'll get a guarantee of a certain number of cycles, so there is probably some testing going on the factory. Not only does this increase practical reliabilty, it's also probably something you can insure against. No way the insurance is going to pay out if you don't have the parts with the guaranteed number of cycles (or if they find out you went over the number of cycles, although I wouldn't know how they could).

yeah i know it looks pretty decent, would still be cool to be able to show the difference, not only with contactors. Clive should take some more expensive parts to bit :) and i agree that you can try those out if they are reliable but still, for a factory they cannot afford any downtime, so reputability of the used brands is critical. I'm not saying they are worse, but they could be.

While reading through the log book of an elevator I found an entry that explained the splattered contactor on the table. It said. "Needs new contactor, old contactor refitted. I had a little incident."

You can get round that in some situations with a PTC Thermistor. However you have to know how to specify what type etc as too high a temp-co or resistance and your PSU can grey out or go bang etcetera and too low a power rating and the PTC will go pop. You "can" use a PTC all the way up to a 3KW load but personally I would say that's way out on the hairy side. One other option is an inductor. Again it's got to be specified properly as for mains work you really need something with insulation capable of at least 600V (due to back EMF and all sorts of nasties). On top of that you need a low DC resistance to avoid heating etc and the relevant category of insulation temperature (I can never remember which category is which temperature). Or alternatively the "bodge it and scarper" method I use at home is to use a relay capable of 10 or more times the load current. IE a 25A relay for a 600W load. There are mercury wetted contact type heavy duty relays you can get on some surplus sites which are useful for this but personally I'd not use them as I'm a bit paranoid about mercury.

Ooh! That was sudden. I hadn't even spotted that.

Personally I'm surprised it's that few.

That's probably because it's a copy of something that was designed through long experience.

NCB specs were actually higher than MIL-STD specs in some places and the individual test certs were also in effect a certificate of conformity.

😂

Mercury switches were amazingly reliable. Fortunately small ones are available in bulk on eBay from China because China.

There are still places to find them other than China... I work in the petroleum industry and they all over the place. Intrinsically safe by design

But when things go bang is half the fun!

There's a common cultural idea in China called "face" (as in "saving face") that basically completely justifies straight up lying about something rather than admitting weakness. In the case of so many of these 'straight from the factory' aliexpress and ebay products, this tends to manifest as manufacturers grossly exaggerating ratings of products, usually because they won't admit being weaker than a competing product. This can end up with things being rated an order of magnitude or more higher than actual facts indicate, due to co peting products repeatedly 'out-facing' each other. It's seen as an entirely normal thing in China, but tends to annoy anyone here when they buy a 50,000,000 mAh battery pack and are greatly disappointed. As a rule of thumb, you have to assume the ratings listed are exaggerated to some degree for any product not quality assurance tested directly and marketed by a western company (although it's been cropping up I've noticed even in recognized brands' products in recent years). I would generally trust industrial components though to a higher degree as the importance of efficiency of the production processes in China would lend itself to well designed factory gear. Then again, you also often end up with the 'reject bin' QA failed products when buying cheap off ebay or aliexpress. I guess buyer beware is the only real safe assumption, that and test the shit out of anything that has the capacity to blow up under normal operating conditions BEFORE using under said conditions.

Ah, no. The thermal overload breaks the coil circuit. Was there much smoke?

That depends on how it's wired

Does the lesion hurt?

More likely burnt up TRIAC.

Could also be the pot is just worn out. Had a similar problem on my old Ford Pinto's throttle position sensor. The engine idled ok, but died when you pressed the gas pedal. Replaced the "sensor" (pot) and the car ran perfectly again.

Sounds like triac failure. They often fail short circuit.

bigclivedotcom arrr nuts! I will have to return it, it's only 3 months old. Thanks dude love your videos.

It's already happened in my industry. The JIT (just in time) and KANBAN approach is only any good if the clipboard muppets know how to actually analyse the lead time data etc. Most of them have clip boards because 1 their memories don't work 2 to have data on so they can quote it to pretend to not be stupid and 3 to do crayon drawings.

Ha Ha Ha, glad to know you share my ... pain.

There are a few that look remarkably similar. If I remember correctly there were some "Square D" ones exactly like this back in the 90's.

condoms

makomk I bought two padded toilet seats from big lots , installed them , sat on one to take a dump... it broke into 3 chunks..

I am not sure how to comment on this.... Epic Shit?

Yes, generally they are bigger in size as they would switch a much higher current load. We use contactors to turn on whole lighting panels for retail stores

Awesome! One of life's mysteries solved then :D

I would have said more of a *Tak!* (but hey, onomatopoeia is subjective). you can also run a line-delay between contactors and a single switch operates any number of arrays (of lights) in sequence. but you'll hear the *tak-tak-tak-tak-tak* like someone rhythmically switching the switches, when it's only actually the one switch, and while it looks cool, it's not just for effect.