A surprisingly well put together and informative review from a smaller channel. By how good you are at talking to the camera I thought you had way for subs. Nice job!

Great video! I just bought some sets of similar batterees from Jugee (3,3v rechargable lithium cells inside, some control electronics to output 1,5 volt, etc.) at 3000 mWh. Some reviews of those estimate mAh value at about 1800. Only difference between these EBL's and Jugee is, that the Jugee's do not have a micro-usb port. So they come with a 'cradle' with just 5v passthrough from USB power source. My application: We have a "Sure Petcare" connected cat flap, which EATS C cells. About 4 Alkaline C cells in 2-2,5 months. And the cat flap totally dislikes 1,2v NiMH rechargables. So in this case, despite much lower capacity, this type of rechargable Lithium batteries is a really great alternative to just keep on buying disposable batteries. So in short: * Have appliances which deal with the 1,2V from regular NiMH rechargables? Absolutely go for those * Have appliances that eat batteries, need maximum voltage or otherwise really go badly on 1,2V NiMH's? Get these EBL's (or Jugee)

I've had the same problem with EBLs and others where they refuse to take a charge if they get discharged too low. One thing I've had success with is charging them with my old school maha mh-204 which charges in pairs. I think it takes the average voltage of the 2 and charges them both up. Often I just put it in for 10 mins or so, then can move to my newer charger. Thanks for the review.

Thanks for the honest review.

For me this is the holy grail... 1.5v until cut out is great in so many ways. I use them in my remote controls, outside sensors and small flashlights. I remember when I was a kid, I hated how my toys moved slower and slower over a long period of time. 2 hours of full speed is more fun than 4-5 hours of medium speed :)

Thank you for spotting the mWh instead of mAh rating I missed it to .. I did still buy them as I want them for a camera which goes through 4AA batteries in as little as 30min

Subscribing from now on. Will be buying these cells for my light. mWh is actually the apacity of the cell in watts. If you divide it by 1.5V you'll get the capacity in ampere. 3300mWh/1500mV=2200mAh. It's close to the actual reading of the ebl 2800 nimh at around 2400mAh. The reason why nimh lasted longer maybe because of its drop in power. It doesn't stay on 1.5V. I bet if its forced to maintain a 1.5V it will significantly lower the runtime. I tried running an ebl 2800 before on a high drain device and only ran for 50mins and even lower runtime for alkaline. Someone from a forum said it draws more current to compensate for the low 1.2V to close the gap and maintain a certain wattage. Actual measurements did somehow matched the claim. It only read 1.4A for 3.7V li ion but read a staggering 3.2A for 1.2V nimh.

I use these exact batteries to power my telescope mount and for that purpose they provide phenomenal performance. With these powering my mount I can track Jupiter flawlessly at 850x in -17c temps, no other power source even those designed for telescopes could provide that level of precision. These provide a constant 1.5v of power to the motors which is what they need to be precise right down to 10% capacity and can run my mount for up to 24 hours. My set is about 3.5 years old now and still providing the same performance and about 22 hours of runtime.

Of the NiMH batteries I found that the EBLs had a significant failure rate after a year or so being used in our church school. The 2800 is really nearer to 2200-2400. We use a lot of them in various uses in the school so we get a pretty good use and failure profile. We also use a lot of Amazon AAs and none of them have failed through continuous use and cycling so far. We have about 50/50 of the two brands. The fact that we use a lot of them in auto waste bins, label makers, clocks, remotes etc gives us a pretty good feel for their durability. We have about 50 of them in use or standing by ready to use. For my personal use I stick to cells from the original factory in Japan. That would be Eneloop and LADDA from IKEA. IKEA is significantly less expensive than Eneloop for pretty much the identical cell. I use Eneloop exclusively in our church wireless mics and LADDA at home, both AAA and AA. Thought I would share actual use experience with a large batch. However, the EBLs are attractively priced and can be replaced easily. I have bought three different rechargeable li-ion brands for trial. Two AAs have gone dead but more work needed.

Thank thee for the excellent review. I went ahead and ordered them (OMG ... something else to recharge). I plan to use them in Macro ring flash. They may have less capacity but if I can recharge them 1200 times they are still a better deal than single use alkaline or lithium batteries.

TRAIL CAMERA!! If you are having trail camera issues, THIS is likely the problem. Yup! I tossed some lithiums in my trail cam thinking I would be better off. NOOOOPE. It started with only 2 (of 3) bars, and just will randomly shut off whenever. Unpredictable behavior. Great video. Saved my butt. Thanks.

Do they work well in cold weather? IE trail cam

Thanks for the review. I have found that the energizer ultimate lithium AA batteries are the best bang for the buck for non rechargeable. Can usually get 20 of them for ~30 bucks on amazon. While they have about double the power of a normal AA alkaline cell, they DON'T LEAK and destroy equipment. I have had hundreds of dollars worth of flashlights, headlamps, and cameras destroyed by alkaline cells. The Energizer ultimate lithium usually run around 1.8 volts new. They are a 3.7v lithium cell with a voltage converter to a nominal 1.5v.

Glad I came here now!! Cheers

Thanks for this👍

There are D size converter shells that you can use to put AA batteries in, like 4 I think and it makes a D size battery. I have the AAA to AA Bayer converters, about 8 of them.

Pro Tip: When you get that problem of batteries emptying out to a level they can't be recharged that happens because they are so drained out that the charger can't properly test them. To fix that all you have to do it connect them to a fully charged battery so that the plus is connected to the plus and the minus to the minus for about 5 seconds. The way I do it is put them on a desk, so that the positive end of one touches the positive end of the other and use a bent paper clip to connect the negative ends. After holding this for 5 seconds the dead battery will be recharged enough for the charger to properly detect it. It usually works after one try but if it's not enough a second round will do they trick 99% of the time.

any Lithium rechargeable AA battery on the market I have seen are 1200mAh or tricky 3300mWh which is half the capacity of 2800mAh

What is its weight in grams? Im thinking of buying this for my wireless mouse

Question. What is he best AA rechargeable battery for outside garden lighting? The one that will hold it's charge the longest while in use. Trying to find the one that will keep the garden light on all night and then charge in the daylight hours.

How is the output noise on sensitive audio equipment due to the buck electronics?

You can save those batteries that don't seem to charge by taking two wires and connecting a good rechargable battery to the bad one for 5 seconds. Then putting it back in the charger and it will begin to charge again! Saves even more money without having to toss

I found a good use case for these rechargeable lithium ion AA batteries. I recently bought an HP Reverb G2 virtual reality headset. It uses voltage to measure when the batteries in the controllers are low, and if you use NiMH the controllers will immediately go into low power mode as if you had alkaline batteries that were almost used up. Rechargeable Lithium ion batteries don’t have this issue thanks to being 1.5V. The controllers seem to drain Alkaline AAs pretty quickly so I bought 8 EBL lithium ion rechargeable AA so I can have a set in use and a set on hand.

Couldn't agree more, the mAh capacity on the lithium rechargeables (vs NiMh) is a deal-breaker, especially considering the cost. If/when AA & AAA lithium rechargeable technology hits 3000 "mAh" capacity, this is when I'll make the switch... to make the switch now is just too much of a lateral/sideways move.

Great video! Thanks :) Liked and subbed.

Thanks for your review! i got a razer basilisk x hyperspeed mouse and i got stuck with batteries, is perfect solution for me

I have been looking at the lithium batteries also. I have the SkyRc MC3000 charger, that will also charge lithium batteries. Since you are heavy into rechargeable batteries, you might want to try one of these chargers.

Yep I bought some and also just realised it is 3500 mWh and I also read it as 3500 mAh Doh! Like you I thought it was the ultimately high storage capacity, but sadly when you do the V x A = W conversion you can see it is 2200mAh. Damn it.

Wow i was going to make the same mistake and buy them on amazon but thanks to your vedio will not make that mistake thank you for your advice

Thank you for the heads up wow I got had to! Now I know MWH is not the same MAH,

I bought a blink security camera and they only use Lithium batteries. Very expensive as you know. I am going to try these thanks

These seem to be no longer available on Amazon. They only have the red aa li-on batteries which are 3000 mwh.

I've tested a few brands of AA/AAA NiMH fully charged with a multimeter and have got readings of around 1.4v??

Lol.. you sang my song! Just went through all this.. and ended up with the same. Then, right before I bought them.. I found you. Thank you for a great review! It would have been nice to have those Panasonic Li-ion rechargeable batteries.. but unfortunately Panasonic only rolls with industrial ballers. Lol

There made more for high drain ultra bright flashlights. Lithium ion batterys generally discharge faster as well as they can be used on higher mode settings.

The integrated “charger” takes up considerable space in the shell… I’m a huge fan of lithium ion and lithium iron phosphate (LifePO4), but every engineer I’ve spoken to has said the AA and AAA form factor are just not there yet. I love EBL NiMh and use hundreds in our emergency radio gear. (public safety portable radios and older PASS alarm units) self-discharge issue doesn’t really come into play nowadays, especially with EnerLoop and EBL. If you’re stuck using lithium AA and/or AAA, go with external chargers. EBL and Tenergy make nice chargers but only a few have USB-C as an option, and I detest micro-USB. Nice video and channel..Thanks!

Anyone have an opinion on the Ikea ones. I really like them but hate having to drive all the way to Ikea to get more.

Anybody know about Keeppower USB rechargeable Li-ion AA battery? Their 18650 and 21700 USB rechargeable li-ion battery are just perfect, but not sure about the AA... Can someone test it for us? Thanks.

You just saved me 45$ and being frustrated! I’ve used nh for ever and they worked great till I put them in lights and found that they are not as bright as alkaline! I hate that gotcha moment! Lol

What’s the best or your favorite charger to buy?

Can you power a device through the usb port?

The one thing that you failed to mention is that the 1.5 V batteries have a current limit. If you try to use them in something that draws more than 2 amps they will shut off. A small drawback. Other than that a nice video. The thing I was looking for was can these batteries be charged on a regular battery charger instead of the micro port? I have not been able to find this information anywhere. bob

If you also consider most AA NiMH rechargeable batteries are somewhere around 1900 mAh (Eneloop) to 2550 mAh (Eneloop Pro), the EBL AA Li-Ion rechargeable does compare to that. You end up paying a premium for the 1.5v Li-Ion vs the 1.2v NiMH and having the consistent higher voltage of the Li-Ion across the discharge cycle of the battery. Then there's another premium of the rechargeable Li-Ion battery over the one time use Li-Ion battery. It is definitely shady that they label the rechargeable battery with mWh instead of mAh though. Like you said, in the case of a high lumen flashlight or camera flash, the rechargeable Li-Ion would probably have a benefit, but for everyday use, the single use Li-Ion is probably the way to go. Comparing prices, a 16 pack of the AA single use batteries can be bought for the price of just 4 rechargeable batteries with the charging adapter.

I found 4 pack 26650 EBL lifepo4 5000mah batteries on walmart for $20...Would that be considered [12v]?...And would I be able to put them together for a 48v 1000w 20ah battery?

The only problem that I've had with rechargeable Li Ion batteries is the blocking of the AM band on radios. This is likely due to the protective circuitry. I use them in lighting equipment, and not much else.

Most rechargeable batteries I have found operate at 1.2volts, disposable batteries run 1.5 volts. That's why most devices show partial charge because they only have a partial charge to start with rechargeable batteries.

Correct me if I am wrong. 2800mah * 1.2v = 3360mvh, so this 1.5v 3300mvh equals that 1.2v 2800mah, lithium has a stable voltage so it beat that 1.2v 2800mah.

Hey guy, in case you haven't seen it and no one's mentioned it, there's a way to possibly recover those dead ones the charger won't recognize. Another YTer called Will Work For Liberty has a clever fix for it. Good video, btw. Cheers!

An update would be nice!! Don't think I missed you addressing this, but my understanding is that lithium batteries take 3-5 charge cycles to hit peak capacity, then apparently last longer, so very curious if you experienced this!

People are often really excited about stuff that they've just taken out of a box in a video on youtube. ;-)

Cool review. Something interesting I found: my NiMH batteries (Eneloop, EBL white, Tenergy Premium Pro) can’t reliably power my ancient point-and-shoot cameras whatsoever (Samsung S85 and S850). None of the alkaline AAs I tried were much better. Cameras were useless until I tried the EBL black microUSB Li-Ion rechargeables. Both cameras have dependably cracked off several dozen shots with lots of display on time and photo scrolling and stuff. No telling how long they’ll go (too early for me to report).

What are you using for a charger?

New EBL Lithium Batteries - amzn.to/3dsIZtM Has anyone seen or tried these? Looks like it might need a specific charger since it's sold with one, batteries aren't sold alone on amazon. Rating is 3000 mwh so it's still lower than most NiMh. Any Thoughts?

The lithium rechargable AA's will have protection in them to cut them off discharging so when your child leaved them in a toy they wont be damaged. Also when i get a NiMH battery thatwont charge i put 1.2v across it fot 30 seconds with a bench PSU and then drop it in to the charger and it works fine after that.

Did Amazon ship just those tiny batteries in that huge box?

Not only is the label at trick but I purchased two packs and had two chargers.. only three charge. Still testing but not sure if it only charges three at a time or both cables have a dead micro USB cable. Anyone else has this issue?

Eneloop and/or ikea ladda (eneloops rewrapped) are still the kings.

The price per ton of lithium has gone nuts!

I wonder can those batteries be recharged while they are powering some device.

Thanks for your video, you saved my life, well,,, more my wallet's life. I almost made the exact same mistake due to the 3300 mWt instead of the mAps. But I need to ask you. You were talking about audio equipment. Do you really think that the 2800s would perform well, on my wireless mic, when I make my 3 hour shows??? With of course some break time in between. It's really important, cause my old rechargeable Duracells can't even last 2 hours, they're totally done for, they're old. But I see that the Duracell brand has dropped a lot when it comes to rechargeable batteries. In power as well as in durability. But AGAIN... Do you honestly think, that they would give me a good full lasting performance when I have to do a 3 hour show? Oh Yeah, I almost forgot; Do they charge in a normal doubleA charger? or they need their own charger? I would greatly appreciate your input on this one. Thanks for your video

I find the way to totally bring dead batterys back is to get a motorbike or car battery charger and just touch the terminals very quickly, and that should revive them. Only use the 6Volt option NOT THE 12Volt option Be careful tho

The actual lithium battery inside that battery is 3.7v that's why it cannot charge the normal way. The circuit inside lowers it too 1.5v

I still prefer Enloops to EBL. I only use EBL because I can only get Enloops in AA and AAA. What do you think is the best brand for C, and D sizes? What I have found is that if you completely drain a battery some of the "newer" smart chargers will see it as dead and will not charge it. What you can do is put them in an older "Dumb" charger for a few minutes and then switch to the new charger.

well am mad its not charging i need help

Was thinking about getting these, I sure didn't realize that it said 'mWh'. Think I'll pass on these. Thanks for the review.

EBL - YOU CAN'T CONTACT ANYONE ABOUT WARRANTIES! I've tried and tried and THEY IGNORE ME! I would NEVER buy their product again. EVER.

I have a thermal camera in which I need to put 2 of those in a Row, would these work in a Row??

They got to come up with a new battery configurations (size standards) for lithium to optimize the technical considerations of the lithium technology. Forcing a lithium battery design into a seemingly antiquated sizing standard appears to handcuff the technology. Also, the non-rechargeable lithium AA batteries have a way higher capacity than other AA battery types. Having the charge controller in the body of the lithium rechargeable battery seems to be the reason for the drop in capacity. Why cant they just have the charge controller as part of a charging station instead? I would buy that in a heart beat. Chime in if any of you know.

Was really hoping for some test data. EBL has a somewhat bad reputation for making claims that their products can't meet. I was wondering if this one was different.

Ikea Ladda batteries are actually one of the best NiMh rechargeable battery you can buy. Watch Project Farm for the testing.

Energizer makes lithium AA too

What about EBL Lithium-Ion AA - 1.5V ?

2+ years ago, bought elb white batteries (rechargable). They slowly die and I have been throwing one away every once in a while as they refuse to recharge. I prefer amazon rechargable. just one opinion.

your amazon affiliate link's might be broken.. the one that works links to the nimh and not lithium ion AA's and the other one is just dead.

DO YOU HAVE THE SMART CHARGER OF EBL..ANY THOUGHTS? AND HAVE YOU TRIED ENELOOP 4TH GEN BY ANY CHANCE?...ANY FEED BACK? I'M IN THE HUNT OF THE BEST RECHARGEABLE AA BATTS THAT I CAN JUST POP IN A D-CELL ADAPTER FOR MY DEVICES ESPECIALLY CAMPING/EMERGENCY LANTERNS LIKE 30DAY DURO LANTERN FOR EXAMPLE...THANKS A LOT!!!

Ya so if something needs a lot of current they probably won't work because it's a buck converter so it might not be good for sensitive electronics and you it's not the actual discharge curve it's the buck converter so it will go from full to empty and the problem with them saying the Mah is that the lithium cell is going to be like 900mah but at 3.6v I guess they could say like 2200ma equivalent or like 2750 equivalent if they are comparing it ni-mh

Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Some of my thoughts: The rechargeable lithium batteries have a reduced capacity due to the charging, protection, and voltage regulation circuitry they have to put into them, because the cells are actually 3.7 volts that have to be stepped down to 1.5 volts. Currently, there are no chargers that can recognize this type of battery and charge them correctly, which is why all that circuitry is in the battery. The benefit is that they have a flat discharge curve (unlike an alkaline) and higher 1.5 volt output (unlike an nimh or nicd). That makes them useful where you may have sensitive circuits that don’t run well at less than 1.5 volts or where you want slightly more power like flashlights. True, they don’t last as long as non-rechargeable lithium, but they can be recharged like 1000 to 1200 times, so they more than pay for themselves. They also hold a charge for a long time. Additionally, they can be used in high drain devices where alkaline can’t. They also don’t leak their guts all over the place when they are drained or left in a device for years. Also, having a tiny cord for charging and either a wall wort or power pack makes them highly portable. They aren’t a panacea, but they definitely fill a need. I use them for multimeters and other test equipment, remotes, flashlights, and things where nimh batteries lack the necessary horsepower. Regarding cells that are drained and won’t charge, you should try jump starting them before tossing them. Basically, take a good battery, the drained battery, and a couple of paper clips. Place a paper clip on the table and set both negative ends on the paper clip, then take the other paper clip and touch it to the two positive ends for a second or two, but no more than that. That should be enough to impart a very slight voltage to the drained cell. Then try to charge it in the charger. You might need to cycle the battery a few times between charge and discharge to restore it properly. However, if the battery behaves oddly, such as gets really hot or charges/discharges abnormally fast, it may be defective and should then be tossed.

It looks like EBL no longer sells these on Amazon. I cannot find them anywhere and your affiliate link in the description goes to a 404.

I think NiMH batteries are toughest of all batteries. More cycle life, minimal harm when over discharged, very low internal resistance, flat discharge - voltage curve....

Apparently you cannot put them three in a row you can run them two in a row but not three or more apparently is very bad for the battery in the middle that's why it dies and it doesn't come back

On the motor he says really fast but he really means is the speed it is supposed to run 1.2v is not 1.5v

Panasonic eneloops are the holy grail of rechargeable batteries they are in my eyes expensive around 4 to 5 bucks per battery but after 8 plus years and hundreds of charges if not over 1k p,us charges and still going as strong as the day I bought them eneloops are the kings of recharable batteries and to the cheap people thst will buy other brands of rechargeables good luck I’ve tried most brands and well you all know my choice.

KENTLI's are the best. Hands down!

I just stick to Duracell and IKEA Ladda rechargeable batteries!

I got these some months back and they are best used for low drain devices that need the 1.5v, I also has the EBL 2800 however when you test them and my charger has that function they test closer to 2400 - 2500mha so really you are not loosing a whole lot, sure the nimh will run longer but it is not really down to the raw capacity it is because they will continue to run all the way down to an utterly unusable voltage, and here is the flaw with the testing in this video because a motor is not voltage aware and it will use any voltage right down to zero so it might run 4 hours but if at the 2 hour point voltage drops to 0.5v then it is useless but the motor will still run and so you could say they lasted longer but did they really? when it comes to battery's they have a max and min voltage and anything below the in is utterly useless and this is the flaw with nimh they start ok but instantly drop to 1.2v and then soon after under a volt. This is why your testing is flawed as a standard mimh will keep pooting out power all the way under a volt all the time the device struggles to run and it does this till ether the device fails or the battery is utterly drained, where as the lithium ones put out a constant 1.5V and rather than fruitlessly hanging in there like the nimh to a low low voltage and lower than in processable it instead cuts them of at 1.5v when the lithium cell is no longer capable of outputting to that voltage, so for consistent output these new ones are better. I use these for low drain devices like a PC mouse and the standard ebl 2800 run dry after or become erratic at about a month while the lithium are still going strong 1 and a half months after charged so really it comes down to application and well testing method and a electrically dumb motor is not really the way

You keep falling for marketing hype. Just because the EBL batteries say 2,800 mAh, doesn't mean they are actually 2,800 mAh. Many people have tested these at around 2450 mAh.

There's no way that mAh rating is accurate but that doesn't mean they're not still useful.

The reason the motor ran faster with the non rechargeable lithium batteries is because most start at 1.7v

Are they junk. Or reliable

The EBL Alkaline rechargeable batteries lose their charge after sitting for more than 2 months

While the EBL NMH batteries are rated from 2800 mah on the packaging & on the side of the battery. If you were to check test the actual battery capacity by using an inexpensive battery analyzer?The actual capacity is on average 70% of 2800 mah which equals approximately 1900-2000 mah of actual battery capacity with several variables possibly affecting the results.Taking into consideration, the fact that the batteries are so much cheaper than many other brands? This may not matter to most people. This is more of an FYI regarding boosted numbers in order to increase sales over other competitors by boasting how much higher rated capacity on the packaging when compared to testing the batteries. Unfortunately, most of the Asian battery manufactures utilize this tactic. The only way to find out the capacity is to either test batteries yourself or watch several different KZfaq videos in order to find what brand of battery best suits ones needs .

You need a different charger. One that can charge it from 0%. That battery is fine the majority of the time.

I could be wrong but aren't NiMH batteries completely different from Lithium batteries? Title kind of misleading

Hi. If your EBL AA wont recharge on a smart charger, charge them first in an old "Dumb" charger and you will recover them!!!

It brings into question the tactics behind the company using such marketing tricks... For me this video tells me something important...EBL ARE CASHING in using unfair tricky marketing.... I'm shocked how gentle you are for what EBL is doing?

Best li-ion (3.7v) on the market are 800mAh or 3200mWh. Your battery has 15% of the volume used for charger so i doubt that is anywhere near 3300mWh advertised. Probably 2000mWh or 1600mAh.

bought these for my VR controllers. Only 1 of the 4 works longer than 10 minutes (6 hours). The rest are just garbage. I would avoid them if you're looking for VR batteries (Rift S)

This is the problem with batteries. Chinese companies will markup their capacity to trick people. You have to understand what the technology is capable of in order to make your decision. What is a realistic mAh rating? This gentleman quickly figured it out and was transparent and clear-eyed about his findings. Some of these over-rated batteries are still worth buying for like, kids toys and remote controls. For serious applications stick to the name brands like Samsung or Panasonic. Some Chinese brands are also good. Nitecore batteries perform well for me.

The presenter of the video has gone into a lot of detail and, through careful testing produced a useful conclusion about the merits of various batteries available for use around the home. I am not an expert, but I would have thought the use of a voltage meter on the rechargeable Lithium cells would have provided a quick and useful guide. Whereas many non-rechargeable cells will produce 1.6V out of the box, rechargeable cells are always somewhat less. In the case of those most readily available, less than 1.3V. Rechargeable lithium cells are interesting the 9V 6F22 EBL cells will only charge up to about 8.4V. One thing the presenter does not mention is that Lithium cells are protected from over and under discharging and this explains perhaps why the maximum voltage is only around 1.3V and the cell quickly switches off once the voltage drops below the pre-set limit. He is right about the measures of Battery capacity; mAh and mWh, both valid but frequently confused. For a typical non-rechargeable 9V battery you have to divide mWh by 9 to arrive at the equivalent capacity in mAh. For a typical non rechargeable 1.5V cell divide a mWh capacity by 1.5.

Tries Amazon basic rechargeable batteries.They’re as good as EBL rechargeable batteries but cheaper.