No, 1.5v lithium cells are single-use disposable items, like a longer-lasting alkaline battery. These are rechargeable lithium-ion cells, similar to those used in laptops. There is a tiny circuit (buck converter) that internally converts the 3.7v to 1.5v, appropriate for standard AA cells.

@Joachim Shekelberg An Internet search from the US finds Energizer: duckduckgo.com/?q=1.5v+lithium Other reference information available here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_battery en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery

@@skityke Apparently, it's an AA battery containing lithium-ion cell embedded. I'm impressed it's a smart design to shrink the normal lithium battery to a broader aa usage.

You don't really understand shit about fuck, do you?

Joachim Shekelberg They just hit the market this year

what makes you think these are lithium-ion ?

@@stevejones9717 its a 13430 li-ion battery with a circuit board

The discharge was measured, not calculated. It was accurate.

@@freefall0483 The point is that Power = Voltage x Current so if you measure current you have to take the voltage into consideration when determining how much actual power (in Watt hours) the battery stored.

@@bluc0bra People with real world experience know that in the real world the theory doesn't survive reality. On paper you are correct. In the real world, measured capacity equals usable capacity. Your on paper calculations fail to take into account the losses of the battery's internals.

​@@freefall0483 I don't think you understand what I'm saying. I'm not saying the measured capacity in the video is wrong, but that battery capacity is a function of measured voltage AND measured current. Both are measured in the video, you just need to multiply them to get the total power stored in each battery in Watt hours. Internal impedance of the battery is accounted for because both current and voltage are measured. This is not about theory vs. reality, it's about interpreting your measurements correctly.

@@bluc0bra What if some of the rated storage of the cell is consumed by the electronics that drop the voltage? Do you think that maybe the rated cell capacity might not be the same as the actual consumable energy.

Oh that explains a lot I was wondering why my GBA would not give me the low power warning when they get low. Using EBL's USB AA'S

True

Right on! Eneloop has more capacity but it goes down to 0.9V on the low end. This stays at 1.5V the entire discharge cycle.

This is my issue with rechargables as well. No NiMH lasts long in high drain devices. These batteries are working extremely well for me in the same situations.

@@vuaeco I don't understand saying that the Eneloop's have more capacity. To compare the two you need to use mWh, not mAh, as the Eneloops operate at much lower voltage. The TENAVOLT was 2475 mWh, vs. Eneloop's typical 2300 - 2400 mWh. Total power is actually lower for the Eneloop.

@@vuaeco there is a cheap knockoff of the tenevolts on amazon called "altizure" and they put out 1.8-1.9 volts, unifortunately they last less than half as long in my low wattage LED usage. The Altizure only has about 1600 mWh

@@Thejmhinkle Plenty of NiMH last long at high drain. 2Ah cells can take a 2-4 amp drain or more. The equipment is the problem. Don't design a 2 cell high drain device to stop working at 2V, or perform badly at 2.2. The device needs to operate over a range of voltage (0.9-1.6V per cell) and a lot of equipment is too badly or cheaply designed to do this.

One example is the Franklin stud sensor 710. Needs alkaline or 1.5V lithium

check out projectfarm's video which is more recent and includes a bunch of brands tested fully. i actually saw that first and found this video because i was curious about how it was built.

Did you ever buy it? Im watching this as im installing them in my quest controllers, ill let you know if any problems arise but they're seeming to be worth every penny so far. I advise to buy 2 so when the batt gets to 2 bars, you can charge them and instantly insert 2 new ones

@@corvidconfidential8826 I ended up buying a different brand I found for cheaper. Lower capacity though and has the charging brains build into the cell, charges via usb. They seem to be working so far it seems like I got around 5 hours off a charge which I'm hoping is a fluke.

@@vgamedude12 a bad fluke? I haven't used them long enough to see how long it stays, but do you also use them till they die? I use batteries until they are on 2 bars, so I'm sure this brand is perfect as it seems to have more charge. I hate changing batteries on the quest as I have a skin on the grips, so the longer the charge... the better. Btw, what VR set do yah have?

@@corvidconfidential8826 I have the odyssey+. I meant fluke because for some reason my left controller stopped tracking and the lights got dim but the right one was working fine. I took both sets out and recharged them to full, since then I have only played about an hour though. One other thing, with the lipo batteries since they are constant 1.5v until shutoff the battery indicators do not work correctly, at least not on my headset. I get constant 3 out of 4 bar charge report.

@@vgamedude12 mine has been used mostly since I replied first, just stopped to charge the headset, and I only played beat saber + pistol whip but my batt level has stayed at 3 the whole time. Tracking never degraded and it already is lasting longer than a normal AA. Hate to say it but you might want to see if it's the batteries, depending on *how* much cheaper they were might be a factor. :c Could be a quest thing too, I've only had a quest and know nothing else about VR so I could be wrong.

Ottima riflessione che vedo poco in giro. Questa soluzione usa elettronica di tipo switching e quindi la tensione in uscita non è "pulita" come avviene in genere con le pile. Le cose più disturbate possono essere gli strumenti di misura su cui consiglio di non usarle

It's not very honest though when they know that capacity has to run through the step-down circuitry which isn't 100% efficient. The customer shouldn't have to know or care about that - they should advertise the usable power instead of the raw pouch cell capacity.

My el cheapo Logitech wireless mice from a decade ago are extremely frugal in terms of power draw, to the point where I use them as homes of last resort for any disposable cells I end up with (from used equipment, included with new items, etc.). They happily do the "low battery" blink for months, with no issues.

I am trying to figure this out. I bought the tenevolts on amazon, as well as a couple of knock offs. Knock offs are deleepow and altizure. The tenevolts are superior in every way when I run them on some very low wattage under cabinet LED lights. Alkaline Costco/Kirkland brand AA's run 7-10 days, the tenevolts run 6-7 days, the deleepow maybe 3-4 days and the altizure's run for only like 2-3 days. Altizures put out 1.8+ volts and the deleepow and tenevolt put out about 1.5, so you don't get the dim lights like you would with NiMh rechargeables such as eneloop. All of these 3 brands have chargers that look identical and all put out 5 volts, but NONE of them will work with the competitors batteries, or at least their charging indicators don't work. I think they are set to very manufacturer specific output voltages. The tenevolts seem to turn themselves off with the internal circuit and the others have some kind of sensor in them like a normal lipo charger. Putting the altizures for example on my RC car tenergy charger on 1s (1 cell) 3.7v lipo auto charge senses the voltage like normal when applying voltage over 1.5 and I can charge them easily that way (i don't know why his charger had an issue, probably because it tries to auto sense wheras I can set the charger to LiPo mode only). anyway that's likely all confusing and I should make my own video comparing them all. If you want a set of these get the tenevolts and their own charger. I am off to try to charge them in my 18650 charger now!

@@gagegr just got some of the cheap alizure batteries but did not buy their charger since I already have a smart charger and it will charge them up to their normal 3.7 volts I'm unsure if this will damage the internal circuitry or not

I don't know about these Tenavolt ones but some of the very first batteries of this style actually had two terminals at the positive end; the charger contacts a recessed ring connector around the normal protruding nipple which provides the 1.5v output. If you look up Kentli batteries you'll see what I mean. I imagine regular chargers won't work because they'll just contact to what is the 1.5V output circuitry.

I figured I went a bit too far! :D

i did this when if first took apart my first li-ion battery, only find later that it is in fact carcinogenic. one of my facepalm moments

@@carlos2004 I hope you washed your hand before the facepalm, tho.

Earned my like for that one.

This guy is funny 😁

Joel, are they any good for RC cars ?

@@luissimoes8106 They are great for the controllers of my Tamiya cars. NiMH always show low voltage on the radios where these don't. They are outlasting my NiMH batteries in the front door use significantly so they should last a long time in lower drain devices as well.

@@Thejmhinkle don't know "what to do"...🤔 I have a set of Sorbo 1.5 V lipo USB rechargeable ones ones and, in older cars don't work, In recent cars you don't see that bigger punch like when we swap from Alkaline for Ni Mh; So, until anyone make that comparison I'm stopped... thinking in Eneloop or Duracell...🤷‍♂️😁😉

A basic or decent battery charger like he has has to guess what battery he is putting in it. It is guessing it is a 1.5 Volt battery which it is. But at 1.5 Volts it thinks the battery is pretty much fully charged. Inside of this battery is a small typical lithium ion battery rated at 3.7V which you normally charge up to 4.2 Volts. The charger doesn't know this. The charger made by the same company of the battery knows what to do. It would be nice if he measured the charging Voltage. It is probably just putting up to 4.2 Volts. Looking at questions on Amazon, some people asked if the charger would also charge NiMh batteries. The company replied no.

Get these. They don't take long to charge and you get 4 so when the first two go dead you can put the next two in the controllers. Just charge them regularly

It's just a very small "buck converter". Also known as a DC-DC step down converter. You can buy them pretty cheap but they are not this small, but fairly small. I have modified a lot of my kid's toys to use lithium batteries (18650 and other sizes) using either a step down or step up converters depending on requirement.

@@moes2168 Ive worked with the lm2596 before. But something as tiny as this that fits the diameter of a small cell would be great for some projects.

They are sold on Amazon now. Where the Tenavolts really shines is not the capacity but the base voltage of 1.5v that's the same as alkaline, where NiMH is around 1.2v. Some electronic devices are voltage sensitive. I have a Bosch GLM 15 laser tape measure that uses AAA and it would work for a couple of minutes on fully charged NiMH batteries. I thought the device was defective until I put in normal alkaline batteries and it works for a lot longer.

The Eneloops are nickel metal hydride. Not much to learn inside those, I'm afraid.

Thanks very much. Great videos.

It is regulating the Voltage of a 3.7V battery to 1.5V. Nothing too special. it needs a special charger that knows what this battery is doing though. A typical charger won't work on this.

It'll cut the power because it doesn't provide enough current even though it's still 1.5V.

@@vuaeco so isn't it a problematic situation for host device? Let's say it is an xbox controller. It will measure 1.5V, will it try to wake up repeatedly, forever? Or it will wake up but when it try to use vibration motors will it cut off?

@@mhakanalim Its fine in my experience. I use them in LED lights that have all sorts of controls and patterns and they just go super dim. Xbox will be A-OK too (we have one at home).

No, it was damaged. I went too far. :D

Yep. Only tablets have 2A chargers. All phone chargers have 1A or less.

@@vuaeco well not in this day of age, my stock phone charger charges at 5V 4A. My Substitute can deliver 4,5V 5A or 5V 4,5A

These are lithium ion batteries, the same kind on you phones, these typically output a voltage of 3.7V / cell. these batteries have a Buck converter (DC to DC converter) that lower the output voltage and maintains it at a constant 1.5V. So if you do the math 2775mWh / 3.7V = 750 mAh @ 3.7v but after the converter 2775mwh / 1.5V = 1850 mAh @ 1.5 V. So these batteries are actually not than far off from Ni-MH rechargable batteries because those output at 1.2V and they are rated at 2000mAh typically so 2000mAh * 1.2V = 2400mWh.

They are on Amazon, I imagine eBay has them also.

LTO looks badass, comrade. The most impressive part for me (a Eurosquatter north of the "Medicine Line") is how it performs in sub-zero temps. My ideal lithium ebike battery would be LTO, energy density be damned!

Maybe yes but you must known that lithium battery last just for few years even without charging cycle. So, do you plan charging every day?

@@madhouses Virtually all ebike batteries are one lithium chemistry or another. What do you suggest as an alternative? Lead-acid? LOL

yeah, they charge like normal li ion batteries. so basically constant current for the first part and then constant voltage of 4.2 to top them off. the little chip on the circuit handles it all. so it's basically like those 18650 boards that make them into a usb powerbank, but the difference here is that instead of stepping up to 5v, it uses a converter to step down to 1.5 on the output

@@carlos2004 I've since bought two different brands. I don't mind the weird charging configuration so much as the fact that each brand has to use it's own charger. THAT'S a bit of a PITA.

It's not about the inches but how you use it.

@@vuaeco. You are asian right?

Correct! It sounds familiar! :D

@@vuaeco lol

What do you think it is?

@@vuaeco a lithium battery. which is exactly what it says on the battery and which is exactly what it says on amazon. show me where it says "ION" anywhere in the description of them.

@@stevejones9717 Wrong.. these are Lithium Ion. I contacted the company myself via Facebook. Lithium batteries cannot be re-charged. (Technically it may be possible but it's difficult and not safe to do). Lithium ion batteries can be recharged easily and safely. I contacted the company on facebook for clarity and they confirmed these are Lithium ion. Calling it a lithium battery doesn't negate them being lithium ion as it still contains "Lithium". Please reach out to them yourself on Facebook as I did, and they will confirm these are LION batteries if you won't take my word for it. They are quick to respond.

Absolute lie from someone with no experience on these. They will outlast any NiMH battery in a setting that needs voltage for power such as thermostats, cameras and front door locks. NiMH batteries are the ones playing games with your mind because they want you to believe they last longer while only supplying 1.2 volts. In reality they won't power devices beyond remotes and wall clocks for very long at all. I've put these through the test and they are far better than the Eneloop pro and Fujitsu Black. Don't even mention the crap white label stuff.

Yeah look at the mWh not the Mah since the eneloops run such low voltage. The real world answer is it depends on usage, if you are in a high draw device these can supply high voltage longer. They don't fade to black like eneloops and similar NiMH

Bro do some Math that you claim you can do. 2775mWh / 1.5 V = 1850mAh, these are higher if you consider Ni-MH output at 1.2 V and will continue to drop in voltage with a rated mAh of 2000 so around 2400mWh so yes these last a lot longer than that.

A lot of you guys are confused with the mWh rating. That is indeed a little dirty trick. Don't compare that to mAh. You would take the average operating Voltage, times the mAh to get the final overall power storing capacity of a battery. A typical rechargeable AA battery is rated at 1.2 Volts, a typical Lithium Ion battery is rated at 3.7 Volts. it is rated at 3.7 Volts, but fully charged is usually 4.2V. The rechargeable AA batteries start at higher than 1.2V when fully charged but when discharging they will stay in the 1.2V range for a long time.

These are not just "Lithium" batteries. These are Lithium Ion batteries. These Chinese companies just aren't advertising it right.

You don't have to trade anything. The TENAVOLT batteries beat the Eneloops! To compare the two you need to use mWh, not mAh. The TENAVOLT was 2475 mWh, vs. Eneloop's typical 2300 - 2400 mWh. The Eneloop is at a much lower voltage, which makes the mAh comparison rather useless. Total power is actually lower for the Eneloop!

Yeah they measure 1.5- volts, the deleepow's measure a bit higher. If you want high output try the altizure line on amazon, they are SUPER cheap in comparison and only have 1600ish mWh, but they output a solid 1.8-1.9 volts. For most LED applications that's fine. "burns twice as bright for half the time" :-)

And it seems to me you lived your life as a bike light running at 1.5V

@@RealWorldPolice Moar voltage isn't always the goal though. It depends what they're used in.

@@mranderson978 Elton John?