Now THAT is a component level repair I like to see. After a career in aerospace and computer engineering as an engineering tech, I went on to biomedical research, but kept up with applied engineering. Cars are mostly controlled by electronics now, and that's fine with me. I could have done "board level" swaps back in the day, but preferred to do the actual diagnosis down to the particular resistor, capacitor, transistor or chip and save my employer a few buck$ (often hundred$ and in some cases thousand$). Over 90% of "repairs" were fixing cold solder joints from boards that had been wave soldered. Not enough flux or heat too low. The rest were a mix of corrosion on connectors or burned out components. I don't begrudge auto mechanics their pay. What I disagree with is engineering planned obsolescence and warranties based on MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) of electronic and mechanical components, and making the ECM code difficult to find anywhere, much less online. I'm not wanting to rewrite or hack any of it (or violate their copyright). Just want to look at signals and do simple things like exercise the ABS dump valve to get air bubbles out of the module while bleeding the brakes without having to pay $1k+ for a "scanner" I don't need. Most scanner manufacturer's reps can't even tell you what their products will do aside from what's on their poorly written website. Sheesh!

I bought a used one from the junkyard. The junk car was a Caddy with 30 thousand miles on it, so the EBCM was in good shape. It cost $55.00. I installed it myself. It wasn't hard, but it was a pain to gain access to one of the screws. The lights never came back. I also grabbed the front leather seats from the same car and replaced my cracked ones.

Thank you so much for posting this. I did it and it worked like a charm. Over 6 months later still no lights! Thank you again!

Just picked up a 97 Seville with this same problem. Thank you for the video.

Your a great samaritan providing a great service to all of us chevy abs light sufferers. Thank you sir, you do great work.

I repaired mine. one of the 6 coils had a broken wire. I soldered it, lights went off. thanks for the vid, it was a great help

I had the same thing happen to my 98 blazer!

Just did this exact same procedure on my 2001 S-10 a little while ago. The brake and ABS would come on intermittently. I knew it was a cold solder joint issue, because if I started the vehicle and the lights were not on, I could open the hood, and tap the top of the EBCM module with the handle of a screwdriver, and BOOM....lights would immediately come on. Just took it for a test drive after my repair, and everything was good. Tapped on the top of the module twenty or so times to try to get the lights to come back on, but they didn't. Problem fixed. I was an Electronics Technician for years when I was younger, and I did a LOT of soldering back then. That experience I have/had is a good thing to have!! Good video!!! Thx for posting it!!

Old video here but I still wanted to say thanks. Fixed the ABS code on my wife's Blazer and only took about an hour. Good work, bud.

Another testimonial - did this on my '01 Blazer and no more Brake/ABS light ! Thank you for your time to make this video !

Bro when all was done and the lights went off you had me cheesing like Yae!! I. About to try it on my truck now thanks alot!!

Hello: after watching this video, see how easy it is repair and I repaired my chevy s10 modulo 2000, following the recomendations and surprise worked. I own my s10 since 2006 and the failure of the abs I had since I ve had since 2009, when I was driving in the Tennessee chattanooga, pass a bump and immediately turned on the abs.. thank you very much for sharing this video. thousands of likess

Just did this myself on my 02 blazer and bam problem solved, thank you very much for your incite, just saved a ton of money doing this at home.

My Chevy Blazer had the exact same problem. I tried your methode and it just worked fine! Was a pain in the a... to get the old sealer out but it safed me a lot of hassle and money. Thanks again.

You just saved me $1500. The removal on my 2000 Silverado was quite a bit more difficult, but the rest wasn't too bad. I added thermal grease to your instructions and put dielectric grease on the three connectors before plugging them in. Thanks!

Loved the video, followed it as advised and this repair worked as advertised. Thanks so much for the post, I hopefully can help someone with this knowledge.

Thanks for this video. I did this twice. The first time my soldering iron wasn't working well. I suspect the original solder is higher temp than what I am used to working with. After the first time I ordered a new higher wattage iron. I was still getting the code but in a little different pattern than before so I still thought the solder joints were the problem. I redid it with the new iron a couple of weeks ago. I could tell immediately that the solder was flowing much better. I now declare mine fixed.

You have no idea how lucky you are that the unit isn’t buried under the frame on the drivers side. Good video- appreciate it. But for all those that have to try & get it out from beneath the vehicle & ridiculously inaccessible- may the force be with you!

Most informative of similar vids. Thanks, Prep! You saved me hundreds of dollars and lots of pain. You reminded me to get new gasket maker, among other points.

I replaced all of my daughters 2006 jeep liberty ABS sensors while I was doing brakes and rotors(only $70 at 150000 mi). The light Is still on, I am an electronic tech too, so I'm pullin It apart tomorrow!! Thanks!