Thank you. I appreciate the comment.

Glad you found it useful. I have a few videos about the RAS you might find interesting.

an RAS!

@@Silverback1969MoonLandingLies LOL! Yes, indeed!

@@brianweekley5700 ICSTWOA!

Thanks, Rush. I try to show how different things are used together. For this project, I added threaded inserts in my regular back table so I could easily attach board buddies to that too.

Yes...I concur

Thank you very much. It’s an under-appreciated tool by many.

Thank you.

Thanks, Leo. That means a lot. I do have several future RAS videos planned when I have the time.

Thank you very much. Totally agree that skill must be based on fundamentals!

Thank you very much. Glad you enjoy them!

Thank you. I love ripping on my RAS and do iit all the time. Using proper setup and technique, it can be done safely.

I much prefer ripping with an RAS than a table saw. Set up properly it's safer, I don't care what those other guys say.

I don’t know if it’s the coolest setup, but they are definitely cool saws. Thanks!

Thanks. I highly recommend the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. It includes a lot of information on jointing, shaping, and molding.

Thanks. Or, have multiple RAS’s setup for different operations. On the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, we often say you need more than one saw! LOL

Thanks. They definitely work well with certain applications.

Thank you, Maybe competent, but not a guru. I’m still learning all the time!

Thank you. If you just got a RAS, you'll find it's useful for many things!

Thank you. A push board is the safe way to push wood past the blade when ripping on a RAS.

Thank you! The extra long back table and fence comes in great for ripping things like plywood.

Thanks, I appreciate the comment!

Thank you. The RAS is an under appreciated tool. I do have a few more RAS related videos planned when I have time.

@@brianweekley5700 as well, I'm really glad I found your channel. I'm soaking up all of what you've shared and hope to put it to use soon. Please keep the videos coming as time permits. Thanks for sharing!

Rob Johnston Thank you. I have more coming, time permitting.

Thanks. They are still good machines to use!

Thank you. The old DeWalt saws are great. I have many other radial arm saw related videos you might be interested in.

Thank you. There are many cool things you can do with a RAS.

buy a book on radial arm saws and read it first. don't make the mistake i did and rip the wrong direction your first time, i didn't get hurt but i bent a new blade and soiled my shorts. the older machines like he has are the best, but my newer version craftsman works just fine. watch a lot of stuff and read a bunch about safety. Buy some board buddies!

Thank you. Consider joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". Even though you have a Craftsman, we welcome all users and it's a great resource for any questions you have about it. Lots of very good tips and information. Also, buy a copy of the book: "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel. It's a must have if you want to use your saw safely and get the most out of it.

Thanks!

Thank you very much.

Gracias.

It is nice. You can find an old one and restore it too. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eMCPf8Wa3JavYKs.html

Thanks. The feed direction should be the same for any RAS (make sure the blades and cutter head are installed in the correct orientation). I strongly suggest buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. A large portion of the book is dedicated to molding and shaping with the RAS (in addition to many other operations).

@@brianweekley5700 I probably have it, unless its paper backed I don't read very often. Just look a the pictures. I've got dyslexia hence the name bob, no matter how you turn it its always bob. qoq dod pop bob . you just have to change your point of view! but you'll see bob in there somewhere.

Making a fence for either the molding head or saw blade is basically the same. The molding head works great. Glad the dust collection is helpful. Thanks!

Thank you.

Thanks. Glad you liked the video. Using the blade in out-rip would give you more motor clearance, but most saws won't allow you to move the blade to, or beyond the fence in that configuration. You would need to move the fence further forward. However, I rarely need to edge joint boards thicker than 2-1/2". I have a separate video on installing the LED lights on the arm and many other RAS videos you might find interesting.

Thank you very much!

Thank you. I’m glad it’s helpful.

Thanks, Hank. Learned a lot from you and the DeWalt forum.

@@brianweekley5700 Thanks Brian, always happy to see a new guru emerge from the woodpile. ☺

It’s great seeing both of you guys from the forum! The knowledge shared from there is wonderfully important to counterbalance a lot of the misinformation that is so prevalent here on YT. Great content Brian. I sub’d.

@@SuperBardley "I saw it on KZfaq" is almost like the famous last words a person can say before trying something fatal they watched there and took it to be correct. ☺

Push stick problem?

I've always ripped with a trip of wood. The issue has always been both pieces don't pass the blade at the end of the cut only the piece I'm pushing with the push stick which often leaves blade marks on the peice not pushed by stick. Your push plank solves this by ensuring both sides of the cut clear the blade especially when ripping a thin strip. Thank you.

Ahh, the push board shown. My latest video is dedicated to that… kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q7WAZtZ81arDqZc.htmlsi=67fYYS2cEWVNh_-8

Yes, there are a lot of things you can do with it! LOL

Drill press, funny you can search for books on them. I own 2 of them. And I haven't done everything you can with one. they used to make a router mount for them too, if you can find one now.

Thank you. Totally agree!

To do a rip cut you have to have the majority of the blade exposed with no guard. Really looks safe.

Enjoy your RAS! A lot of things you can do with it. Just make sure you set it up correctly and work safe!

Thanks. I don't use the leaf guards. They make it much harder to change blades (which I do a lot). I can't see what they actually protect the user from (just keep your hand out of the blade path at all times)!

Yes, it is a versatile machine. However, it can be dangerous--mostly from people who do not use it correctly (not setting it up properly, not using it properly, or using the wrong blade on it). It does have many moving parts/adjustments that need to be setup/calibrated. Unfortunately, many people do not learn to use it or take the time to set it up.

LOL! No, hari-kari not required.

Thanks for the comment.

Thanks. The yellow hold down wheels are called board buddies (Woodstock W1104).

Absolutely. The RAS is bad-mouthed by people who have crappy models or by those who don't know how to use one correctly.

The Mr Sawdust book is full of proper use instructions for using the RAS. www.mrsawdust.com/

Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean by machine setup. I have another video that describes how to setup and adjust/calibrate the saw kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e7ePe7uE2s6VgIk.html. I hope that is helpful.

@@brianweekley5700 more on your cabinet, Mr. Saw dust has the setup of the saw. Great stuff!

@@michaelreynaud I have a separate video on making my cabinet kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f76ffaRolcuUenU.html and another on a dust collection system kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNCDlJuKup_JaI0.html. Check out my channel--many of my videos feature the RAS in use.

Thank you very much. That one is a 1957. I have a previous video on the restoration of that saw.

Absolutely! In fact, I’m seriously considering getting rid of my table saw.

I've never used the planer attachment, but it seems like that would be very time consuming having to move the board to cut a small swath with each pass. Yes, you could also use a jointing sled against a long fence to cut the outside of the board with a normal saw blade. Using it this way (like a jointer) avoids the need for a sled and can deal with crooked boards easier.

Things like this are saw specific. Installation of board buddies depends on the thickness of the front and back tables and accommodate the height of your fence. You have to work out what works best for your saw. I do recommend buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. This describes how to make a great table for the RAS (known as the Mr. Sawdust table).

Thank you! Yes, I have a video on the micro adjuster “Micro-adjuster for Radial Arm Saw”.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qL-VYNal3aq-lKc.html

Thank you very much. Your question about how to rip very thin strips on a RAS is a good one. The trick is to not cut all the way through the wood (leave a sliver of wood remaining). That way, there is no small piece of loose wood that will bind, break, or shoot out. There’s a video on KZfaq called “The Radial Arm Saw (Safer and Better than a Table Saw)”. In that video at about 28 min and 15 sec, he shows a very good example on how to rip thin strips.

@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for the quick reply!! Will take a look at your suggestion. Hopefully I can report back that things went well and I still have all my fingers!! I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future so hope you're ok with that! Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming!!

Thank you. The board buddies both hold the wood down and pull it to the fence. Note that they come in three different versions (yellow, green, and orange). I find the yellow ones are best for a radial arm saw (one way direction when pushing wood from right to left). I bought mine from eBay, but you can buy them at Grizzly (if you do a search, you can find other sources).

Thanks for that, they really look like an essential piece of kit if you don’t have the anti-kickback pawls. They also keep the work flat which would be great for a thin piece with a bend in it. I was wondering if you have elsewhere demonstrated some details about your table with the extension arms. I like the idea and with your permission would like to make one similar.

How easily a machine goes out of alignment is going to depend on the quality of the machine and how well it's adjusted. Radial arm saws do have many moving parts that need to be properly aligned/adjusted The older DeWalt's are known for their precision and my works very well. If you haven't seen it, please check out my video on radial arm saw alignment.

Thanks. If you’re referring to the planer attachment for the RAS, no I don’t have one. It looks like it would be painfully slow to use. I’d prefer to use a hand plane instead if I didn’t already have a power planer.

@@brianweekley5700 I was thinking of the planer head with four carbide cutters that is used like you used the head here. I'm going to try mine on some rough lumber.

Mine came with one, but I have not had a need to try it since I have a planer. There are videos on here using it though

@@talltimberswoodshop7552 I was looking at the planer attachment heads as well. Did you get around to try it out?

@@phillipphall7802 Yes, I used in on some rough lumber that was wider than my 6" table top jointer. It worked pretty good, but not perfect. Still had to use a hand plane to touch it up. You have to wedge it so it won't wobble also.

Thank you for the kind comments. My long rip table/rip fence was made exactly the same as shown in my video "Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)"--just longer. It's 6 feet long (decided only because of the piece of plywood I had handy). The board buddies are attached with 1/4-20 screws. I installed threaded inserts in the table to screw them into. For placement, I considered the rip position and molding guard and placed the board buddies as close as possible, but still allowing enough room so I could perform all functions. Note that the long rip fence is typically used with stable boards (e.g, sheet goods). If boards are bowed, the long fence could cause pinching at the blade, so sometimes it's better to use the standard fence in that case. For table mounting holes (MBF?), I suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. In the FAQs section, there are some table drawings with dimensions you can print. Unfortunately, It's not something I can easily access right now due to travel. I take it you don't have the original table for reference?

@@brianweekley5700 No, unfortunately I do not. I am a member of the forum though. I will have to delve a bit deeper into it for the drawings. Speaking of drawings, I have not had enough time to thoroughly go through all the comments and such on your channel. Can you point me to some of yours? The miter and bevel gauges come to mind, but I know there are others. I am coming close to retirement and hope to spend more time setting up and using my shop. Back to the Board Buddies. What determined the height?

@@brianweekley5700 When I re-looked at my original questions, I saw that I really only asked two, but labeled them as three. It took me this long to realize what the third question was supposed to be. Kind of goes with the plans questions. Do you have the printer files and cad drawings for the plug and hose adapter? Thanks again!

One of my favorite tools!

@@brianweekley5700 I'm gonna have to pick one up someday

@@benofalltrades Check out the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. Lots of great info and advice about RASs (hint: you want an old, cast iron DeWalt)!

@@brianweekley5700 good to know, thank you!

The LED strips have an adhesive back. Clean the metal with acetone first to remove any oil. If you find the adhesive doesn’t stick good enough, try Gorilla two-sided tape. That stuff works great. You can get a better view of the lights in two of my other videos: Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: 1957 DeWalt MBF” and “LED Task Lighting for the Radial Arm Saw”.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bL9zZqiG3sCvZHk.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fLRoocSoyNXImnU.html

Thank you! It’s a DeWalt MBF, but I do have a newer motor installed on it. I have an earlier video about it titled “Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: ‘57 DeWalt MBF”.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fLRoocSoyNXImnU.html

They’re called “Board Buddies”. You can buy them at Grizzly tools, but often find them cheaper on eBay. The green ones are free-wheeling hold downs (either direction), the yellow ones only feed left to right (generally most useful for RAS or TS), and orange one only feed right to left (only useful on RAS in out-rip mode).

@@brianweekley5700 Thank you very much! Got it. Enjoy your day and be safe. Where are you based? We live in Pennsylvania

I’m currently in CT, but lived in PA for awhile-about 30 miles north of Philly.

Thanks for the question. No real need to screw the fence to the backboard other than convenience to hold the fences in place (assuming the backboard is as long as the fence so it can be clamped tight against the table). In addition, the PVC I used for this fence is rather flexible so the screws keep it from bowing where it extends past the main table. The reason my long rip fence is screwed on is because sometimes I flip it the other way around to rip wider pieces. In that case, there would be nothing to support the fence past the normal table (a wood fence might be preferred). Otherwise, I wouldn’t normally screw fences to the back table (being able to swap out fences or change the fence/back table configurations is one of the advantages of the RAS).

I have a few other videos showing some limited use of the molding head on the RAS and plan to make some more. Two that I can think of offhand are “Make a Ski Rack for Your Truck/Vehicle” and “New Tops for B&D Workmate”.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7iZatFjm6i3oXU.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNJhet1qqdmmqac.html

Thanks for the comment. I have another video titled “Radial Arm Saw Alignment/Calibration”. Once the saw is properly setup/aligned, the arbor will be perpendicular once you rotate the head to the vertical position (there is a set index to lock the head vertical). With the shaper guard installed and the saw used properly, I believe it is a safe tool to operate-at least no more dangerous than other power tools.

Grizzly tools also. I have 3 sets one for table saw one for ras and one for shapers. that set would probably work great with the molding cutter. but its not worth a shit on a shaper from what i've read.

Thanks for your comment. Sure, that’s another way to straighten an edge if some holes in your stock are acceptable. However, I disagree with your statement that jointers are obsolete. For fine woodworking, you certainly can’t flatten the surface of a board on a table saw or a radial arm saw! P.S. I like the vintage road bikes on your channel (I cycle too).

@@brianweekley5700 I do like the methods in your video. I recently straight-cut a stack of cherry using a 10" x 8 ft. piece of plywood with the stock clamped to it, run through my 12" Steel City table saw. I have a 1948 Red Star Multiplex 40-A RAS that I just completely disassembled restored bolt by bolt. It is really smooth and very powerful. Still getting used to what all I can do with it. It has a 3/4" arbor... Hoping to find shaper and other implements for it. I use arbor spacers for the 12" blades that have 1" arbor. My other saw is a smaller 1977 Craftsman 10" RAS. It also works but has more slop in it than the Red Star. Not sure if I should keep the Red Star or find an old DeWalt like this one... Do you have success finding parts and attachments for yours? Like the shaper head, guard, etc? Thanks and great video here. I am looking at the different fences and methods here. (I love and ride the old racing bikes!)

@@markjohnson9495 The DeWalt shaper guards, molding heads, and molding blades are relatively plentiful and easy to find on eBay. I prefer the Delta-style molding heads and the company, Corob Cutters, still makes molding blades and heads (they originally manufactured the molding knives for the Delta heads). However, can’t say I’ve ever seen heads for 3/4” arbors. I’d ask if Corob could bore one that size for you. Otherwise, perhaps a machine shop could do it (not something I’d do myself if you want it to remain concentric).

Thanks for your comment. We frequently have multiple tools that can do a given job and I fully believe in having a diverse set of tools to use. There can be a variety reasons why you might choose one tool over another. However, I respectively disagree that it's a waste of time and money. First, you can often find the molding head and blades used on eBay for less than $40. Once you've made the fences, setup time is less than 10 minutes. The cut quality is quite good. This technique is quieter than a router and the feed rate is as good, or faster. However, the real reason I made this jointer fence is because I'm going to be using it to make flooring from rough cut lumber for an off-grid barn (the one pictured in my avatar). The only power tool I use at that location is RAS that runs off a generator. This setup provides a longer jointer fence than my 60" jointer at home! This is a perfect example of making do with the tools you have available. As far as face-jointing on the RAS goes, you are correct--it can be done. There was a planing head that was available for the RAS. However, if you have a crooked board, it still needs to be put on a sled and the practical length is often limited by the RAS table length. I didn't mention this option because they are difficult to use, very time consuming because of their small diameter, and hard to achieve an acceptable finish with the multiple passes required..

@@brianweekley5700 Actually I use my RAS for molding but have not thought of using the setup for edge jointing. I am not motivated to do so because I have many routers. Only a medium-size router like 10 amp is plenty for edge jointing. I have not used the planer knives for edge jointing, but may for face jointing one inch at a time. In situation where a wide board is only the top of something and only general smoothness is needed this may work.

woodensurfer It’s funny-I call them jointer knives that you use for planing and you call them planer knives that I’m using for jointing. LOL Many people prefer to do all there molding/shaping exclusively with router tables. If you have many routers, I’m interested why and when you use your RAS for molding? I like to use both for that purpose. My choice may depend on the profiles available or the size of the boards (easier for me to use the RAS with longer boards). Anyway, glad to hear someone is using the RAS capability for molding/shaping. It’s an under appreciated tool these days.

@@brianweekley5700 The molding knives on a RAS gives far more possibilities than router bits. The saw can tilt and only a certain segment of the knives are used. Router bits for shaping is only a few common profiles (or extremely expensive). The molding head is much bigger and dissipates heat much better than router bits. But because the cutting radius is so large it is inherently more dangerous and more care needs to be exercised to make it safe. A straight bit is only 3/8 in spinning diameter; it is safer and need less setup considerations. I actually have one large router with variable speed and large enough opening, so I use the common bits with it. I have collected many smaller routers at garage sales at very low prices.

woodensurfer Good job. Totally agree!

Please elaborate or your comment is meaningless.

Thanks for the comment. This was meant as an inexpensive option for a hobbiest that maybe didn't have a jointer. Certainly, if you're a professional, a separate jointer would be preferred. However, it only takes about 5-10 minutes to configure. For those of us that have more than one RAS (four in my case), I could leave one setup as dedicated as a jointer if I chose to.

OK, but works great for those who don't have a dedicated jointer!

@@brianweekley5700 A radial arm saw does one thing. Cross cut wood better then anything. Every day all day. It's not even close to a jointer.

@@augustwest8559 I once had a cabin in the backwoods of Maine where the only tool I had was a RAS run on a generator. I jointed hundreds of feet of wide pine for flooring using a setup just like this from wood milled on the property. In fact, it’s much easier to joint wide boards (12+ inches) flat on a table than standing them up on end against a tiny fence on a jointer. It worked flawlessly, so you can’t tell me it can’t be used as a jointer. Sometimes you just have to use what you have available. This video documented the building of another such jointer to do the same thing for my barn shown at the top of my page. Just thought people might like to see how it can be done (and it can).

@@brianweekley5700 Your confusing what determines a jointed edge on a board. A flat face to a square edge is what a jointer does better and faster then any tool. I don't doubt you ripped a straight edge on pine for floors. It doesn't sound unreasonable. I would not call that a jointed edge.

@@augustwest8559 Both setups are exactly the same thing! This RAS jointer setup is simply a jointer turned 90 degrees. Both have offset infeed/outfeed tables where the blades are set even with the outfeed table. You do realize I’m not just ripping, yes? The board is kept tight to the outfeed surface in both cases. The RAS table = Jointer Fence. Offset RAS fence with blades = Offset Jointer top with blades. Blades on both are 90 degrees to the fence. Both setups square and straighten a board. The RAS disadvantage is I can’t easily adjust the depth of wood removed per pass. I do have a 60” jointer, but my RAS jointer is 72”-better suited for longer boards.