broken ground plane continuity?

Dave, you did that deliberately, in order to do a second video on the same subject. I'd watch it however!

No fuse?

what was it ?

@@seanwilkinson2291 It looks like the fuse was removed during the troubleshooting...

Especially if it has little bubbles in it 😂

I would remove it for you without asking for permission and expect a "Thank you" from you.

@@UnrealTransformer Rude. You don't touch other peoples stuff.

"It's a collector's item! It'll be worth a fortune one day!"

@@UnrealTransformer Me too.

yes repair videos is where the knowledge come to the fore because it is not easy at all.

I had a meeting at a newly opened remote office a few years back, and one of the locals was complaining how poorly the new white board looked after erasing. Even using the cleaner fluid didn't help much. I walked up to the board and noticed that the protective film was covering the entire board. In slight fairness, there were no obvious bubbles or tabs to remove it. Worked great once the film was removed.

My parents were complaining about how bad the control panel on their refrigerator looked when it was only a couple years old. I saw it still had the film on and went to peel it off, they made me stop, thinking I was going to damage it. I waited until they were gone, peeled it off and...viola! The control panel looked good as new.

@@Okurka. nah, violist’s heads are just smaller. Also, why do violists put a cloth under their chin? No spit valve.

@@briansauk6837 What's the difference between a violin and a viola? The violin takes twice as long to burn!

How many years did you have to take violin lessons before you realized you'd never live up to your parents' expectations?

Looks like the debris did get cleared at some point.

It's not OCD. I've seen motherboards with QFP pins shorted by fine dust. Blew the dust off and then it booted.

Sometimes things miraculously fix themselves upon being cleaned! So to me thorough clean is a good early step. Even if there is no evidence of moisture ingress or anything like that.

Totally agree. It is very hard to fix modern meters or any equipment nowadays as everything is integrated chips and surface mount components. It's almost impossible to repair or get parts. Not like the old days.

Great way to learn real electronics repair and the diagnostic process. I've managed to fix 1 out of 5 so don't have a good track record but man it's a great feeling when I did succeed fixing that one.

Hence the name _'protective_ film'

If you can't wait for them to show up again on Amazon (if they ever do), you can get them from weletron. Shipping to the USA is a pretty fair 10 EUR or so. I think it ciphered out to less than the Amazon price for me even after shipping and exchange (USD was close to par with EUR back when I bought). Keep in mind that when shipping to the USA welectron will not add in the VAT and they didn't charge my state's sales tax, so the 10 EUR shipping was more than offset by that.

Действительно это он, надо подумать над его модификацией .

So did the cap above it. It had a black spot. Although R104 looked like a solder splash.

Nicely spotted. It measures 0.5ohms which seemed odd, so I checked a good board and it's 10k. So somethign up here. Cap not shorted. It was just flux residue, and it's not part of the micro circuit so doesn't explain the lack of boot, but somethign it certanly up here. Also, the resistor above is populated on the good board.

@@EEVblog probably micro blew up thats why the resistor got charred

Check C46 (nearly next to it). Might be some burned flux ...

@@EEVblog No wonder they don't want to give you one (of many of) the schematics.

I had two, killed both with a range sweep at 240v. junk meters.

to be fair, Dave did send me a replacement meter and then a refund, but I still had to pay import duty on both. Kept both test leads and fuses, so I guess it worked out ££ wise.

@@ritecomment2098 I've never needed to measure above 120 volts AC but I've had zero problems -- I'll try it on 240 volts tonight with my welder plug. You have the 121GW model? I searched the "EEVblog 121GW Multimeter Issues" thread and found no mention of killed units like you describe so I'm guessing this is a fluke :) Of course you have to know what you're doing when you use a multimeter; reading current or resistance will at minimum blow fuses for sources that are not current limited!

@@IamJohnanderson I had a 121GW, I have a 101,175, 325 and 17B+ now in daily use. The fault with 121GW is that after a range sweep it seemed to lost all calibration or blew something in the precision measurement circuit as it was reading 10's and 100's of volts with nothing connected. I think it must have been a common flaw as Dave was selling upgrade kits shortly after. I was a kickstarted backer and had such high hopes so I must have got the first batch. Whenever I get a new meter I always do a range sweep from OFF to all the ranges, AC,DC, resistance, capacitance, mA, A and then back again slowly a few times with the leads in the COM and V/ohm plugs. If it's input circuitry can't take that (as noone is perfect when working), then I won't use it. This proves that the high impedance circuit is working. Obviously doing this in current mode is pointless as its just a short circuit, but ensuring there is no crossover in the range switch section of the PCB during these modes is just as important. I work on AC servo systems with an shared DC bus that can be between 600-800VDC so its a complete reject for me, I didnt even take it onto site, can't trust it at all. Its worth saying that the safety specifications for meters only specify that there should be no explosion during a failure mode, not that there should be continuing function. But this is 2023 now (nearly), I just can't throw away a meter because I had a 1 second moment on site.

@@ritecomment2098 Thanks for the further info! You know what you're doing. Sounds like hopefully this issue has been resolved but I can see why you'd be hesitant when you have other options that are reliable. I use my meter mostly for low voltage circuits. I do like the fact that the firmware is hackable and perhaps some day I'll get a chance to play around with it.

I don't offer a repair service anyway. Neither does any othr Brymen dealer AFAIK.

same as needing nurses to keep doctors from killing their patients.

I have the same type of blue film on my kitchen scale. Instructions say take it off, but I like the look.

That doesn't seem likely at all. What EDA software doesn't co-maintain schematic and artwork?

I think you came in on the short PPBUS.

Sometimes you eat the bar and sometimes the bar eats you.

Yeah they're usually pretty good, but this is a fairly densely populated double-sided board so I'm not sure if it would have been much use.

I do, but it's not something I would have normally considered for a simply crystal. By the time I realised it wasn't budging the pad had lifted.

@@jhonbus I somewhat agree, but to further add... any highly successful techniques wouldn't be straightforward. I've worked with 6+ layer mil-spec avionics boards with much higher component density and LOTS of disassembly and "pre-desoldering" would need to take place even before employing any sort of desoldering techniques, even with a "simple" crystal. That would be just the beginning. I've successfully removed more root cause fault components using these techniques more times than I care to admit, mind you for over 30+ years and still going, but other components that could absorb significant amounts of heat may need to be sacrificed meaning more possible tradeoffs. Again, just the beginning. EDIT: In this case, this is a "ruggedly built" DMM, which those robust components definitely would absorb/dissipate massive amounts of heat away quite quickly. Just my 2 cents. 😎

@@EEVblog Yep. Which could mean more disassembly and even sacrificing other components that could be possible "quasi heatsinks", yet still no guarantee. Considering the cost of the DMM, It would be for entertainment/education purposes.

I've been a "Fluke" guys for 45+ years - they've never failed! Great meters! Modified an 8012 for LCD Backlighting w/ adjustment.

@@jonabbott7660 Growing up in Europe I got my first multimeter in 1967. Money was tight so a German made one let alone an American was out of budget. So I got a Sanwa from Japan, analog but the precision it was made lived up to the most expensive competition. Nixie tube ones we had during my apprenticeship, the fascination lives on. During a factory visit at the Salora factory in Finland I was locked into an argument with their chief engineer that showed us an unstable digital meter that had to me no aceptable result. I insisted to find out the root mean square with an analog meter but he refused. So I saved up and splurged for a Fluke 8024B. No I had proof that that man was wrong. First time I could also directly measure Siemens values without inverting Ohms. Best engineering at the time! Sadly when it died 2 years later all I could afford was a Japanese clone, that very unit has survived over 30 years. Now I lost count over the number of multimeters I own. But the Japanese chief engineer from Sony awarded me a new Fluke meter for being their 2nd best technician they had in Australia. Still my pride and joy despite its display showing a filter issue.

Most manufacturers don't supply that anymore. I'm not sure if they ever did. I think if you ask them they would provide it. Thing is electronics nowadays are all designed to be disposable.

There are tweezer style irons designed specifically for 2-pin smd components. Unfortunately, very few people see them as a good investment.

@@KingKong-mp6gj I have used them. I prefer using two pencil irons. That has always worked better for me, particularly with small components like 0402 and 0201.