The original batteries on my BM235 where slightly smaller than standard ones. When the MM got vibrations or slight shocks, it showed intermittent InEr . I thought it was a faulty device, but after replacing the batteries, everything was fine!

get some kittens and send one to Dave.....

Seen something similar with TI and Microchip where, depending on what else is being powered up when a programmer is connected, the power rail and signals would dip slightly and that was sufficient for the micro to not respond. Only by increasing the programmer voltage by 0.5V did the micro 'appear' (but then you have to be careful with max voltages).

You were invested with Dave.

Anyone who claims they are 'goofless' (to coin a phrase, lol) is a liar. I prefer the warts and all videos too

@@arongooch Yeah i guess bad wording :)

I did. No problem.

In Part 1 Dave says that brymen did not give him all the info for the board, so he has to trace out all the lines to find out where everything goes.

The harder it is the more rewarding the experience, if it was easy it would be boring

This is why we need to fight for Right to Repair.

Apart from knowing what the micro is, I have no other technical information.

​@@felixcosty ahh and? Most people also dont have schematics either - but using a miltimeter trace down the componenet. Dave just seems to jump all over the board instead of startiing at one point and working through it. Has he even checked a short to ground and traced to were its the least resistance? Look through his past videos - not alot of successful fixes...

NEVER, ..EVER, underestimate, the Human capacity, for plain ..STUPIDITY..! 🙄

There was a TV studio, I think in the Green Bay area, that back in the 80's had a tiny fire in a trash can. It was quickly extinguished and people thought that was that. When they returned after the weekend, there was copper oxide dust all over the place and not surprisingly, nothing worked. I'd love to know what was in the fire extinguisher.

And I too am picky about plumbing solder. I don't do a lot of it, like it isn't my job. But I've been picking away at home renovations. The water-soluble stuff is awful. But I'd love a recommendation on a brand that comes in fairly small containers. I'm not too bothered it if is relatively expensive as a small quantity will last a long time. It is the frustration of needing to rework, especially after the pipes have been pressurized with water that I'd like to avoid. I can't always pressure test with air.

@@strehlow I never test with air but I almost never have leaks on small pipes 1/2" up to 1". Larger than that is easier to have leaks, 2" I always have a few leaks but I also put in really good quality unions so I can remove entire branches to dry them out to rework a joint. As for flux I prefer Oatey brand. I'm really picky about my plumbing flux and I've had fluxes that don't really work for me for some reason. Oatey visibly starts to boil and sizzle when it's hot enough for solder so it's a great way to know when you're hot enough. As soon as it sizzles start applying solder. The biggest thing though is to thoroughly clean the pipe ends, clean clean clean then apply flux, same with electronics. If you have to rework a joint also clean the black shit off the outside of the fitting so it won't contaminate nearby clean copper. My reworks are nearly 100% if I do that. Overheating is probably the #1 mistake to have bad joint, heat just enough until the solder melts rapidly then remove the heat. I use propane too and that seems to help prevent sooting vs acetylene or Mapp gas. Just a green can of camping propane works really well and it's cheap.

Doubt it. That's part of the LCD driver by the looks of it.

A cap and a 0 ohm sounds like an error. Then the power supply or chip may be stressed and U know the board fails after a week.

@@danc2014 Yeah it's pretty strange to have a zero ohm on one board and a 10k or so on the other. Big difference. I notice the other resistor was 01C marked. It could be mistaken for 000 if you weren't careful, I suppose. Now was that factory rework, or user rework...?

According to the datasheet, that's VLCD. Change in the liquid crystal chemistry?

Yes, I wicked those up.

@@EEVblog sounds wicked... nice :)

See you next Tuesday.

Бывает при грязных токовых гнездах.

I just screen capture a National Instruments meter

From the manual: "The meter beeps as well as displays “InEr” to warn the user against possible damage to the meter due to improper connections to the uA, mA, or A input jacks when another function, especially a voltage function, is selected."

@@Another8Years Um, how about "no connections" to the jacks?

@@Another8Years Um, how about "no connections" to the jacks?

Yes, makes no difference.

@@EEVblog Well it was a long shot. or maybe you could wipe the chip and reinstall the update. its another long shot you never know it might work. if it doesn't it probably has EMP damage from what caused it maybe from a microwave. lol 😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂😂

I always get picked up on errors like this but in this case not a single person watching the previous video noticed it!

Yes, popcorning as its called. Why those chips have a shelf life before installation, reducing when the hermetic vacum foil packaging is opened on the tray or reel of chips.. Worse in humid countries, so designs out sourced from Europe to Asia were often delivered with wrecked ICs where similar handling in Europe did not result in popcorning... Baking is part of the recovery process for those chips before reflow soldering.

Nope.

Dave fitted that crystal in the last episode because the oscillator wasn't working and he thought it might be a bad crystal. He didn't have the correct part so kludged that one on.

Watch part 1, A pad was lifted removing the crystal in the previous video.

The chip is very well protected against such things.

You never know. It should be well protected. But you can never be sure. I killed a WiFi router once with ESD 🤣 luckily it was EOL already.

@@EinGamer22 : Can't compare consumer grade crap to measurement instruments, not even in the same ballpark. Haha...

@@bigcheese781 actually true. Like I've said I'm no expert in this stuff. Why I'm thinking about overvoltage: the silicon lab should check every single chip for defects. So there should only be good chips. A bond wire could have broke tho (idk why I mean that chip won't get to 70+ degrees Celsius.) Also how is the insertion error occuring. Is that a defective part on the board or just a simple Software issue?

@@EinGamer22 I think when the chips pass the tests at factory, some of them are really close to be defective (poor bond wire contact, badly formed gate on silicon, thinner traces at some places...) but they're just good enough to pass the tests. Then they end up failing early in real use. I guess there is no solution for that problem unless there is some testing that checks the whole thing at a molecular level rather than just testing its functionality

It's ALWAYS the ppbus

@@EEVblog ppbus_g3h, the words that louis rossman has burned onto my brain

@@EEVblog lmao

This is 'Input error'. Swears at current inputs.

I literally spent like 10 minutes talking about it and poking at it. Plenty fo time to notice it's the wrong chip, but not a single viewer noticed it!

Or just buy the Bryman, and if it fails buy a new one which would be delivered well within 1 1/2 months. And you'll still be quids in.

The BM786 was under warranty (it was 9 months old according to a post in the forum). So presumably the buyer got a replacement. The Brymen does have a shortish warranty (1 year) - but you're paying at least $150 more for an equivalent Fluke, so the Fluke warranty isn't exactly free.

Это политика страусов.

После случая с измерением сопротивлений.

@@funcool8884 именно! Они конкретно облажались! Ежу понятно, что любая прошивка имеет баги, и не давать возможность обновлять их бесплатно, выглядят очень подло со стороны производителя.

To ChatGPT: "Write a poem describing how to fix my multimeter. Then draw some images showing giant multimeters rampaging through Sydney."

Hi

Maybe it’s not for you 😂

Keep at it, don’t give up.

What part can't you understand?

Keep going components

Don’t worry..! NO, Engineers, can understand it..! That’s ..WHY, they ..always employ ..Repair Techs…! 😉😁😂😂😂

> Is Brymen better than KAIWEETS? Yes. Brymen are not POS (and Taiwan is not 3rd world), but to each his own. Fluke, Keithley, Keysight are much more expensive. I have some Flukes, and I have some Brymens. I use the Brymens more often. They're more compact and more readable. I use a Fluke for car work because I have a magnetic strap for it.