Greetings from the armpit of Minnesota!

Compressed air.

No.

@@RustBeltAuto ok then. I like your videos, cool down to earth attitude, w a mix of wrenching knowledge and common sense.

Won't know until spring.

@@RustBeltAuto oh wow ok.

@@jcrisen5417 this car won't be seeing salt or snow. The machinist also has covid right now, and is under the weather.

@@RustBeltAuto oh ok. I’m in GA so I’m lucky I don’t have to deal with that lol. Going to use huhnsolutions.com time sert kit and srt 4 hud studs for my D16Z6. Hopefully get it done in a month and let you know how it goes.

There is a build list in the discription of these videos in my playlist. It's a hunter gatherer type thing.

I blew another head gasket, and dropped the timing a bunch. There is a video in my playlist that shows what I did with my timing MAP. After I moved my timing, I have not had a problem since. Runs really nice.

@@RustBeltAuto what about boost, is it still at the same boost lvl ??

@@majorkin19 yes. When you lift a head, there is a trade off. Either lower boost, or remove timing, in order to lower peak cylinder pressure. Changing the location of peak pressure, by removing timing, instead of lowering boost in order to keep the same LPP, gives you a LOT more power. Sometimes removing timing is not a good idea because of pre-ignition/detonation issues, but this engine is tricky, because it is very detonation resistant, and tuners do not understand how to measure LPP (cylinder pressure transducer), or what amount of pressure to target in a cylinder. That is the best I can explain it.

@@RustBeltAuto what man this is very informative man, are you full e85 or still running pump ?

@@RustBeltAuto and is there a easier way to contact you man, I got a ton of questions man, your set up is almost identical to mine, and I'm about to drop the same exact 2.6l 12mm studs in

Self proclaimed best tuner in the somewhere close to the midwest.

Humble?

@@edgarmanzanares8223 It was a rushed job. Don't know if he could have done better or not. Not very humbling. These tuners I have been dealing with have been the biggest problem with this build so far. They will not be praised.

This is part of the reason I learned how to tune my own stuff. Jeff Evan's has great instructional videos on his website.

@@edgarmanzanares8223 I've watched his stuff on KZfaq for a bit. He's really bad at explaining stuff. It's actually quite annoying.

No. The tuners tuned it with too much timing. Some turners made me believe that was the problem. They said I needed them after 400hp. I removed timing, and the problem went away. What I did is in a later video.

@@RustBeltAuto Thank's , i have the same problem on my D15 engine in france i have 15 timing for 18psi , and now 12 timing in 18PSI and for 22psi 8 timing . And you ?

There is a video on what I did. It shows the timing map. Look at my playlist for this.

@@RustBeltAuto I found the video: Ej8 D16 Ebay turbo 3rd tune part 18. a friend told me the same thing on the phone, it's 12 degrees and not 16, I put 1- in the setting and in the strboscope, I thought I was good, I'm going to do 12 then! but I couldn't find the ignition table

@@DAV4WSR1 ya no. I screwed that one up. D16y8 factory is 16. Hondata timing map is made for a d16z6. That is 12. Had to use the zero mark on the balancer, and an adjustable timing light to make sure it is set at 12. I think the red mark is 4 degrees off depending on what engine you have. Also the video (had to look it up because I forgot) with my doctored timing map was in open lapping part 25 video. Hope this helps.

This did not. Can't imagine it wouldnt help. The most famous (infamous) tuners said I needed it, and it's probably why it lifted. Lifted my head again @ 24psi after oversized studs. I got 2 different tunes on this car, from different folks, and the timing on both was about the same (knock ears are not always right). Did some guesswork, and dropped my timing about 6 more degrees @24psi. (About 21 of total timing, 16 base), and graduated it down incrementally from there, and left everything from 12psi down alone. Tuners had it at about 28 degrees on E85. Drove it a bunch, and kept an eye on spark plug condition. They actually look cleaner. No lift so far. I will see what it does on race day. Removing timing moves the location of peak pressure farther up the cylinder, lowering overall pressure on the cylinder head, regardless of audible detonation noises. E85 is more detonation resistant than petrol. Got a feeling many tuners get this really wrong. It's basically running much cooler, slower, and dumping so much fuel, it's putting out the fire, and burning it at the same time. Spark plugs were showing very slight signs of detonation (very little fuzzy, and minute tiny black spots on porcelin). Surprised no one has invented a pressure transducer in a spark plug or something for these tuner folks. Factory engineers use them in testing, and manufacturing. Even though, I have a flex fuel sensor in this thing, now I don't trust putting 92 octane in it with thus tune, because I dropped so much timing out. If I do run it, it will be on wastegate pressure (14psi), because the timing is about the same. Maybe 2 degrees off. Sorry for the long post. It took a lot of work, and screwing around. There is no easy answer.

@@RustBeltAuto the long post is great 👍 thanks for the reply. I still don’t understand how you would be getting headlift after all that. Leads me to believe that you have something else going on here. The only way I see that is if you had some crazy stud stretch, and if it was the threads on the block those would have been ripped out. You said you have changed your timing, which means you are on the war path to fixing your tune. Back in the day I had tons of power and no problem with head lift however there was mods for the studs and I ran o ring and sleeves. 400-500 whp is attainable without head lift, and my tune then and now was with Crome dealer. Hondata is next for me before you can’t get them no more. You have vitara pistons, Detonation should not be a big problem here, nor lift. That’s part of the point of these pistons. NOW depending on what brand you got, the casting may be crap. All that heavy pitting in the face can cause problems and they do benefit from a shine job. Also check your injectors. I always had a habit of having spares to rule them out which helped on more then one occasion. Another pointer is to use fel pro head gasket. The blue one. Autzone does carry these and they used to have life time warranty I don’t know if the still do or not. But these were by far the best I ever used. I don’t think the head gasket is the problem though. In the 20 psi range water meth injection should not even be a thought with those pistons. This would be 25 psi and above depending of turbo and a few other things, like fuel, turbo size and more timing, higher compression pistons. Vitara pistons are more then accommodating and forgiving. The head y8 for me is preferred over a z6, as the z6 you had to run a few more pounds of boost to make up the compression, a y8 vitara was more streetable versus a z6 vitara do to the compression in the N/A form. I hope something here helps you out. Oh yeah. I have those parts in my eBay cart to do this stud job. It’s by far the best I’ve seen, and better then the setup I had way back when.

@@HellHoundOne went through 4 head gaskets. It was all about ignition timing. It is a common occurrence on Y8's. Google it once.

@@RustBeltAuto 😑 I’ve built enough d16’s to know.

@@HellHoundOne funny you should ask.

You should drive one.

Because they are Made in Canada.😉

@@RustBeltAuto To be honest, I've wanted a Honda for ages, but they get stolen so frequently where I live it's not even funny. I'm going to start hunting for a $500 dollar one at the junkyard

@@xXEvangelXx People have tried to steal mine multiple times.

@@RustBeltAuto What’d they do?