0:40. The bar is split to make it easier to fold when in storage but eventually, the split tends to damage the hood creating wear where the metal bars meet. My new hood came that way. That's why I replaced the split bar with a single continuous bar. Can't fold it, but I can still lay it flat in the boot. Just something you might want to consider before the damage begins. 1:13. I believe the zippers are there mainly if you have an S3, S4, or a Sprint as the window frames are fixed. You certainly did a nice job fitting both the tonneau and the hood.

Really good video. So easy to follow.

Interesting as I attach mine slightly differently. The rear crossbar will only rotate forwards from the erected position, so I put my hood on and ensure the forward internal flap/bar cover is over the crossbar. Finish attaching the remaining studs and then from sitting inside, use the flap to drag the cross rail backwards ensuring the hood is bar tight. Finally there are 4 studs on the flap to make a tube. I had an old coachtrimmer make and fit my last hood and they managed to cut the hood so the side seams tucked into the gap formed between the cant rail and its chrome finisher. Wish I had a hood with the metal reinforcement in the front however, as mine has popped up at motorway speeds in warm weather. Also the Tenax on both my Cant Rails has always been missing - never been a problem as the peg has always been a bit of a squeeze to get in.

Great job.. I am doing mine this summer when it is hot.. Thanks for the video..

Good grief what a faff, I did not realise the earlier cars were so different.

Thanks, Paul! The series 2 hood solution is quite fidgety, isn't it? What with the can't rails, etc. It certainly explains the series 3 & 4 window rails. Let us know if the top is water tight, won't you.