Hmm, that's worth investigating. We grow some sunflowers at home, so might check their suitability. Thanks for the tip Janne. Cheers

Thanks again Steve. So do I :) I have a *lot* of things I want demonstrate, and tools to make.

Glad you liked it, Westerly. You do watchmaking as well as sailing? Cheers

@@theselectiveluddite I do! At some point I will upload my restoration videos of my 1971 Westerly pageant yacht. It's literally taking years. But I'm looking forward to getting her back out on the Sea one day.

@@sailwesterly5444 Good stuff! All the best with the project :) Cheers

They often used 'screw plates', a hardened steel paddle with around 10 to 20 threaded holes in them. These forged the thread, not cut like modern screw dies, squeezing the metal up into the thread, making it wider than the original diameter and work hardening it. It's a little tricky using them as you have to take care or the screw blank can snap off in the hole. I think tallow was used as a lubricant. I have a couple of them, and hope to use them in the future. Here is a link for images of screw plates. The older ones have just a hole on it's own, but the newer ones (still in the 1800s) have one or two holes either side connected with slots. This was to enable you to get a broken screw out of the plate by putting a piercing saw blade through the side hole, then cutting the broken screw in half lengthwise, and then pulling the two pieces out of the plate. Cheers

@@theselectiveluddite can you make a screw plate?

@@Malik_KZfaq Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. Lots been happening. Yes you can. Some of my early - mid 20thC watchmaking books describe doing so. You will need a plate of steel (Gauge Plate is it's usual name in the books) that can be hardened and tempered. This has got me thinking; I have an orphaned, English style, large saw blade, in bad condition, that is probably 1.5mm thick. All carbon steel. I'm currently using a little piece of it to practice making straight springs for 'clicks' etc. in old repeater watches, and it's thicker than the fine end of the small antique screw plates I've got. Cut a piece, anneal the steel, drill suitable sized holes, and tap them with the threads you require. The holes only need 3 or 4 turns of thread, and the old plates forged/swagged the threads up, not cut them like modern taps and dies, so they don't need side clearance holes, and the finished thread is slightly greater diameter than the parent stock for the screw. So that takes a little experimentation. A watchmaking friend uses tiny high tensile bolts, which he grinds two or three tapered flats on the end (carefully so as not to over heat. A 600grit diamond plate works) as a tap. The books, as well as my friend, say, in order to make a left handed thread, to grind away all the thread on the bolt/screw, just leaving a sharp ridge of thread profile down the front and back, and twist it into the drilled hole in reverse and it will cut a left handed thread. I have not tried this method yet :) Once done, harden the steel (probably coating it in Borax/alcohol mix, or some such, to stop fire scale ruining the threaded holes), sand the surface to make it bright, degrease and then temper it, I think to a straw colour (research required). Hope this was clear. All the Best.

@@theselectiveludditethanks for answering, it’s a bit confusing for me the history of screws, how did they make a accurate screws in the past before lathes and so on

​@@Malik_KZfaq In regards lathes, they've been around in one form or another for over 2,000 years. The Pole Lathe can be very simply made out of a forked branch stuck in the ground and stabilised with guy ropes, and half round timber strapped across the fork to act as the tool rest with timber shims between it and the fork to increase the distance to the centre for larger turnings. The Centres are adjustable spikes that can be moved closer together or further apart for holding the work. For a primitive spike with screw see below. I used 3/8" coach screws. A long springy sapling, stripped of bark and twigs, and with a cord going down to a pole under your foot is your power source. This was my first lathe, and I was able to do precision turning with it, including small containers with fitted lids, and a little brass turning. In regards making screws: First, wood screws. The earliest wood screws were hand filed ! With practice they were able to make really good screws. I've seen photos of some. You can see the little flats in the spiral groove from the file strokes, but they look good. With screws for fixing metal components, while the simple lathe was being slowly turned, a skilled workman would be able to slide a single point hand tool along the tool rest and cut a shallow spiral ready for follow up passes with Chasing tools or with careful hand work. If you were able to make a decent short thread in quality steel, by whatever means you have at your disposal, then you would be able to turn that into a tap to make a threaded hole in a screw-plate (which are only around 0.5 - 3mm thick, depending on screw pitch), from which you can make screws of whatever length you wish. Thus you only have to make a precise enough thread over a short distance to make the tool to make more. Winding the home made thread through the plate would even out the irregularities in your original work, as each twist passed through the same part of the plate, thus making the overall thread more even, and more 'precise', though you would have to be very careful winding in your home made screw as the irregularities would increase the risk of binding and snapping. Once the screw plate has been made, better taps can be made using it, and thus better screw plates.... One or two iterations, and you're golden. Tallow was used as the lubricant when using screw plates. I can speak from experience, it's brilliant. Do about a 1/4 turn, back off 1/2 turn, forward a new 1/4 turn, back 1/2. Hope this is helpful. Cheers, and have a Happy New Year.

When I am able. I have other work I have to complete and that is taking up my time. Cheers

G'day Omar, What do you want to ask?

@@theselectiveluddite I wanted to ask you sir about how can I learn the Traditional way of making wristwatch mainsprings and hair springs, And Can it be done by one man?, Why doesn't most of individuals (Independent Watchmaker) make their own?

​@@omarshahin2270 There is an Australian gentleman who has translated a number of watchmaking books from the 1700's, and has put them up as free to download PDF's. Here's a link to the list. www.watkinsr.id.au/18th.html The third one is the book I read, and adapted the methods (from mainsprings and hairsprings) to make hairsprings, and it covers mainsprings as well. Quite a lot of work involved. There have been improvements in the last 100 - 150 years in the metals used to make mainsprings and hairsprings, so that they are unlikely to break, give a more even power output, and (especially important with hairsprings) are not affected by changes in temperature, nor as much by magnetism. Never the less, it is still a very interesting thing to make your own springs, giving you quite a bit of independence, and I wish you all the best. Cheers.