I always do them vertical now since an old boy told me they catch less dust that way…👍

@@couplandsj I was always taught to leave them vertical, catches less dust if they ever get painted over or anything like that it has a channel to run out of. And just looks neater lol

Or you can add power injection at various points using additional runs of power cable from the LED power supply.

It was tempting. If I hadn’t done the floor when I did it would never have been done, plus electrics would have been a nightmare by the time the walls were covered in stuff! 😀

Of course, should have just left one off a few degrees to see who notices! 😁

Good point - easy to wire one into the lighting circuit later though.

6m x 5m

Nothing I currently have needs it but left so it can easily be added if needed.

Yeah but boxy when empty. It’s better now there is stuff inside but likely needs an acoustic panel somewhere. Plus I was filming on a go pro so not the usual mics anyway.

@@TheRestorationCouple yeh, im forgetting it was an empty space, like I said, it's not important, it's not a Hollywood film set 😄

Quinetic wifi switches generate an impulse signal when clicked that send the signal to the receiver, which is hard wired into the 230v circuit. You can have multiple remote switches for a single receiver and a single switch can be linked to multiple receivers (not wifi though).

Piezo electric. Phillips Hue Tap switch works in a similar way.

Done already. Everything except electrics and floor paint.

@@TheRestorationCouple oh right. Sorry. It's early in the morning, watched it last week or so I think. I'm gearing up to design a workshop myself. Built a small one with just the panels last year, but without the cladding because of budget. Now we're moved we want something nicer, but I'm still partial to the panels, they're awesome. I love the timber frame look on the inside, I'm just not sure I can afford it with timber prices up 20% in some cases. And our local cheap supplier just restricted his business to tradespeople only because of shortages.

It's perfectly fine to export earth from the house unless a. House is TT then outbuilding must also be TT (exported from house AND its own stake) b. TN-S or TNC-S in house and outbuilding has extraneous metal parts (ie in contact with the ground) - OK to export earth but must be 10mm2 for bonding (it is part of the house's equipotential zone), or separate it and go TT, but your rod won't be as reliable as a supplier's earth. As he used 10mm2 SWA he can bond metal panels, if they're truly extraneous, and keep it connected to house earth. See John Ward on earthing outbuildings: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hNx1gdaHus6ohac.html