Thanks! Really appreciate your channel.

Cp do I see an up coming review on this?

@@gcampagn That would NOT be a Hahahaha moment?

This is hilarious. The speed electricity travels you will not get there in time even with your hand on the breaker. @Canadian Prepper talk to an electrician or Luis Roussman you tuber before you sell this gimmick.

"cant wait to try it out" 😲

Hi Rick, thanks for the suggestions. The current design does have LEDs to indicate when an alarm condition is detected. But believe me, the audible alarm will leave no doubt. They reset automatically when the condition goes away. We did discuss making it a latched output, but this first version doesn't have that. The ability to drive an external system is also something we discussed, but again, it wasn't done in this first unit.

You're most welcome.

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks Ken.

It's certainly been discussed as a future project. Obviously, it's more complicated.

The E1/E2 pulse causes a single roughly 2-second alarm. The E3 power line disturbance causes either a sustained beep-beep-beep or a solid beeeeeep. It's very easy to tell them apart.

The way things would occur is that when the EMP goes off, the unit will sound (and light) for about two seconds. Then as voltage levels rise on the power lines, perhaps a minute later, the unit will sound (and light) again and stay on until the voltage level lowers (likely when the grid comes down). While I understand the utility of a latched output, it probably wouldn't be terribly helpful since the entire event will be over in minutes (perhaps an hour at most). If you suddenly came home but had missed the E1/E2 pulse alarm, the E3 alarm would turn and stay on as soon as the voltage rose more than about 30 volts.

I'm sure the company can get you one when they come out. I know you're an engineer so you would be able to appreciate the circuits involved.

Happy to come on again to chat.

It's what I'm working on next.

@@disasterprepper yeah because given we are not home most of the day, this is only helpful when home

Totally understood. I've been giving that some thought, but it's still a ways off.

@@disasterprepper How about a small solenoid that sticks on the face plate of your breaker box in juxtaposition to the breaker of interest, the solenoid controlled by a wireless remote switch that is actuated by a wireless signal from the empdoctor? The remote switch could be powered by a battery or from main power.

That's been discussed, but it's more complicated. I'll likely develop something like that later, but UL testing would likely be needed for something like that.

Very kind of you to say. Thank you.

Working on it now.

@@disasterprepper awesome looking forward to it

Interesting!

Thank you!

Thanks Mary. I hope you are well.

Thanks Tom.

Feel free to reach out to me through disasterpreparer.com and we can chat.

You wouldn't have time to do anything about E1 or E2 other than surge suppress them. The are over in microseconds. But E3 can last minutes or even hours, and that's what's most likely to cause damage to a home or business.

The E1 and E2 will be over in microseconds, but the E3 surge (which is what is most likely to cause damage to things plugged in) occurs over minutes to hours.

Yes, shutting it off will disconnect you and protect your system.

Hi Greg, good to hear from you. We have looked at creating an auto-trip device sort of like what you're describing. It's not really difficult, but there are some complications once you start messing with the flow of power into a home or business. I suspect we will develop something like that, but for now, this is a very useful warning device. As for the 105 VAC, that should be okay. This unit current trips a little below that, but wait and ask me again once the final production units are shipping.

@@jenky1865 ?

It's really hard to say without doing a shielding effectiveness test. The seams around the doors can leak pretty bad. If you sealed up the metal box, it should work well.

It's possible, but shorting out a breaker might require 10 times the rated current. That means you'd need to pull perhaps 150 amps, which can be tricky to do safely.

In electronics, that's called a "crowbar" circuit, and it is commonly used in things like fast-switching power supplies. You wouldn't want to use one on your house though, because if your home circuit breakers are sticky at all, it lights the house on fire. :-))

How about a small solenoid that sticks on the face plate of your breaker box in juxtaposition to the breaker of interest, the solenoid controlled by a wireless remote switch that is actuated by a wireless signal from the empdoctor?

@@Scaliad It's been discussed in detail, and we may look at something electromechanical like what you're describing.

Plan B…. Use a wifi circuit breaker

Yes, that does a very good job. Two layers of heavy-duty foil is best.

There are three different sounds: short temporary beep for E1/E2, a sustained beep when the line voltage gets too high (from E3) and a pulsing beep when the line voltage gets too low (from E3). There are also lights to indicate a detection.

If you've fully wrapped the box with heavy-duty aluminum foil, you should be fine. That provides about 50 dB of shielding (99.7% field reduction). If you do put things in a trash can, most people line the interior of the can to keep anything metal from touching the interior wall.

The E1/E2 would be over before you even knew it. The E3 might take minutes to full ramp up, so you should have time to open the breaker.

You wouldn't really. You'd wait about 10 minutes and then power back up. If the EMP Alert kept sounding, it would mean that the voltages were still too high. My guess is that the utility power would be off by then, so it won't matter.

I don't actually have the test equipment to do a real EMP test. I hope to eventually get a full EMP lab set up, but it's super expensive.

The E1 and E2 will be over before you can blink. The E3, though, could last minutes or longer. That long-duration surge is particularly troublesome to electronics.

@@disasterprepper thank you for your information.

Yes, it would, but instead of detecting E3 on the power lines, it would be detecting overvoltage and undervoltage conditions on the generator output. The pulse detection would still work the same.

When the unit first gets power it makes a single short "I'm alive" beep. You would hear that if your power suddenly dropped out and then recovered.

Yes, it would work the same for that type of system.

Sorry, I try not to comment on other company's products.

The generator will work fine if it is plugged in during use. The ferrites will still do their job, but you will still want to get a surge protector on there.

@@disasterprepper Thank you sir.

If you buy a small pulse generator, you can test it. I bought one for around $50. They're obviously not nearly as powerful as a real EMP, but if you hold it close, it can set off the EMP Alert (as I demonstrated in the video).

If it isn't plugged in, your charging cables would be fine, regardless of length.

Hahahahah--you r a riot!!! 😂👍

Each time the power goes off, the unit will sound an alarm when it is next brought up. That's an "I'm alive" notice. If the power lines are within spec, it will stop sounding within a few seconds. If the voltage level is out of spec, it will sound a continuous alarm.

Yes

Yes, that's right.

I tested a Mission Darkness bag a few years ago (a big duffel). It did great. They seem to have very high-quality products.

Sorry, I try not to comment on competitors' products.

Exactly, you need to be Superman or be able to bend time to switch the main switch fast enough. This device needs buyers that are not the smarted on the world.

That's a bit of a misunderstanding. Certainly E1 and E2 would be over in microseconds. That's where the surge protector and ferrites come in. But the E3 voltage line swell could take minutes or more.

The E1/E2 pulses will occur in microseconds, so the unit will just tell you that they just happened. The E3 could take minutes to cause the power lines to rise to dangerous levels. As the voltage rises, the EMP Alert sounds an over or under voltage alarm to let you know that the power levels are moving outside normal operating ranges.

It probably wouldn't help much. The battery would be safe, but the rest of the car could still be damaged.

@@disasterprepper thank you for answering my concern

The non-conductive paint on the body of the barrels won't hurt anything. You can certainly sand off the lip where the seal is to occur. Cover any seams with conductive tape too. Refrigerators and other appliances might or might not survive an EMP. Many of them have pretty sophisticated controllers that might be damaged. Being off grid certainly helps because it removes the E3 threat.

@@disasterprepper Thanks a lot for answering, I know you are busy, so I appreciate it a lot. Take care.

1. It shouldn't. The pulse response is optimized for very fast impulses, much faster than lightning. 2. The E1 occurs in nanoseconds, the E2 in microseconds, and the E3 in minutes to hours. This devices warns when E1/E2 occurs, as well as when E3 is occurring, giving you time to hopefully avoid the harmful E3 damage.

@@disasterprepper How likely are E1/E2 to damage equipment vs E3?

You'd be warned of E1 and E2 as it happened with a short alarm. Then as E3 caused the power lines to rise, the alarm would become continuous. E3 can last minutes or even hours.

Incandescent bulbs would get brighter for sure, but I'm not sure how noticeable a 10-20% increase would be.

You can manually flip the breaker. Automatic disconnects are less common.

Hi Ken, we are still on track for a May release! If you have any questions, you can email them to info@disasterpreparer.com.

You'd be warned of E1 and E2 as it happened with a short alarm. Then as E3 caused the power lines to rise, the alarm would become continuous. E3 can last minutes or even hours.

Based on some other answers Arthur gave to questions, this is what would happen. If an E1 or E2 event occurs, you do not have time to do anything bc it will be over in a millisecond. However, an EMP can go off far enough from your home that you don’t experience the effects of E1 or E2. However, those events , are escaped the third thing to be concerned about is that the pulse will travel from the electrical grid and wires into your house. If that is what is happening the device would sense the increasing electrical flow which builds over time. If you get an E3 warning, you may have time to get to your breaker box. He says if it is an E1 or E2 event, you won’t have time to get to your breaker box, however you would know it is an EMP rather than just a local power outage.

Crap and will fail. EMPDoc here has products that work and for around same price to the worthless little black bows(EMPSheild).

Warning of the E1/E2 would be as it happened. Warning of E3 would be within seconds as the line voltages moved outside allowed levels.

I've never been convinced that E3 would only result in overvoltage conditions. It could also cause currents to flow in ways that resulted in undervoltage conditions in some areas.

Yes

@@chrisbelvedere6653 then how would any of these devices help?

An EMP has two types of effects, the conducted effects that come in on long wires (e.g., the power grid) and the radiated effects that come through the air directly into the electronic device. To protect from conducted threats, you use surge protection devices and ferrites. To protect from radiated threats, you use shielding and transient protection devices.

Hard to say. I'm biased, of course, but I think the EMP protective products we sell are all very good quality, not to mention innovative.

@@disasterprepper I got two of yours a few weeks ago!

It is certainly possible, but as you said, it adds complexity. Right now, the entire thing is completely analog, with no sensitive digital electronics to be damaged.

Another option might be zwave or zigbee. Diy geeks could use smart home to transfer to phone

I would like to see 240 volt version in Europe.

Yep, lots of people do this for smaller items.

What's going to be around after an EMP?

Absolutely! Detection and protection go hand in hand. Unfortunately, the FS140's are very hard to find right now. One day, I'd still like to develop a true EMP surge protection device.

@@disasterprepper Thank you! Yeah, I couldn't find one anywhere. Any good alternatives?

@@imagineeternity443 Yes, a good alternative is the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate. It's not quite as hefty as the FS140, but it's a very well built product.

These are still scheduled for release in the end of May, we are almost there!

No, I haven't tested this particular cloth. I did test about 25 different cloths, and each has advantages and disadvantages, making them good for different uses.

@@disasterprepper Thank you for your time to answer. Will the ol Radio "On" inside a claimed EMP protection cloth be any kind of "test" of Mr. Regular Guy like me?

Here's my name on this comment. I like and appreciate you and your work. You're my Go-too EMP person. I ordered one of you EMP sensors a month ago (Feb. 24). HOW ARE THEY COMING AS FAR AS BEING READY TO SHIP? Is there anyway to contact you over sales?

Unfortunately no, it does not.

@@disasterprepper just make the minimum threshold over 220v and it could be used universally

The E1 and E2 will be over in microseconds, but the E3 surge (which is what is most likely to cause damage to things plugged in) occurs over minutes to hours, giving you the time needed to go flip the breaker.

I’ve been following Dr Bradley for several years, and since I’m just a layman here is what I learned in layman terms. If any E1 or E2 event occurs and you are in the line of fire, it occurs so quickly that there is nothing you can do. But if you are not in the line of fire (an E3 event) you still have to be concerned about the pulse generated on the electrical grid even far away, bc an E1 or E2 causes a pulse to travel along the grid and it will build up over minutes or hours and damage your home even though you were not in the direct line of fire and the E1 or E2 event. In that case the alarm will go off and you may have time to flip your house main breaker. An EMP can get you in 2 ways: 1) the event occurs close enough to your home and the EMP does damage in a millisecond before you can do anything, but 2) even if you are not in direct line of fire, there will be a surge that travels along the electrical grid that spreads beyond the direct line of fire. If the alarm goes off in that situation, then flipping the breaker within a few minutes can save you stuff plugged in at your house. This part is just my guess: but I think many more people will suffer as the pulse travels along the grid effecting many more people who were in the direct line of fire. But if EMP goes off over your house there is nothing you can do. But the device will tell you it was an EMP and just not a local power outage. The device can give you hours to act on your plans before others figure out what is happening.